Spoke tension & variation you consider normal?
10-09-21, 01:02 PM
#1
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Spoke tension & variation you consider normal?
Building a 700c Rhyno Lite 36 spoke wheel with DT Swiss Alpine3 spokes. This is for a rear wheel build.
Using a Park Tool TM-1 gauge, what would you expect the spoke tension to be in the vicinity of per the TM-1's 0-49 scale? What do you feel is a reasonable variance between spokes?
Using a Park Tool TM-1 gauge, what would you expect the spoke tension to be in the vicinity of per the TM-1's 0-49 scale? What do you feel is a reasonable variance between spokes?
Last edited by MyRedTrek; 10-09-21 at 01:31 PM.
10-09-21, 01:24 PM
#2
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Front or rear?
I try to keep +/- 1/2 division on the scale.
You really need to learn more basics.
Hint- Measure the same spoke several times until you LEARN HOW get a consistent reading. Poor technique can make your question totally pointless.
I try to keep +/- 1/2 division on the scale.
You really need to learn more basics.
Hint- Measure the same spoke several times until you LEARN HOW get a consistent reading. Poor technique can make your question totally pointless.
Last edited by Bill Kapaun; 10-09-21 at 01:28 PM.
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10-09-21, 01:44 PM
#4
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And you realize different rear hubs have varying dimensions that affect spoke length & tension.
Same hub with slightly different OLD measurement will have a minor effect.
IF you were to expend just a bit of initiative and go through different wheel build threads on this forum, you'd get a very good idea of what RANGE of tensions and opinions prevail.
Same hub with slightly different OLD measurement will have a minor effect.
IF you were to expend just a bit of initiative and go through different wheel build threads on this forum, you'd get a very good idea of what RANGE of tensions and opinions prevail.
10-09-21, 03:20 PM
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Those are beefy spokes. There is a chart that comes with the tension meter that will tell you which number corresponds to how much tension. It varies with spoke gauge. I'd guess around 25 or so. For the Drive Side. Non Drive Side doesn't matter, it is what it is if the wheel is centered properly and the DS is tensioned properly.
Last edited by cxwrench; 10-09-21 at 03:26 PM.
10-09-21, 03:44 PM
#6
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Different spoke tension based on the diameter of the spoke and the rim construction. What the spoke tension actually is depends on your gauge and its calibration. Each gauge should be calibrated and include the chart.
https://spokecalc.io/spoke-tension-t...ive-guide.html
https://spokecalc.io/spoke-tension-t...ive-guide.html
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10-09-21, 03:56 PM
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15% variation on a side is okay, 10 is better and usually pretty acheivable. Park has a neat web app for mapping tension at parktool.com/wta.
Often there is a little anomaly around the seam that may stray from an otherwise tight tolerance.
Often there is a little anomaly around the seam that may stray from an otherwise tight tolerance.
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10-10-21, 08:30 PM
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10-11-21, 10:31 AM
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Building a 700c Rhyno Lite 36 spoke wheel with DT Swiss Alpine3 spokes. This is for a rear wheel build.
Using a Park Tool TM-1 gauge, what would you expect the spoke tension to be in the vicinity of per the TM-1's 0-49 scale? What do you feel is a reasonable variance between spokes?
Using a Park Tool TM-1 gauge, what would you expect the spoke tension to be in the vicinity of per the TM-1's 0-49 scale? What do you feel is a reasonable variance between spokes?
I would shoot for 110 +/- 10% on the drive side, non drive side will be about half of that. Everyone has their own favorite numbers, but as long as the NDS spokes have enough tension not to come loose, and the DS are not so tight that they crack the rim, you're good.
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10-11-21, 05:42 PM
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A guitar tuner. on final tightening round, tighten each spoke to the exact same note and you can be assured they are all the same tension.
Best thing is that all you have to do is pluck like you are playing a harp. Pluck with one hand tighten with the other, watch the tuner scale.
Very little truing involved.
Best thing is that all you have to do is pluck like you are playing a harp. Pluck with one hand tighten with the other, watch the tuner scale.
Very little truing involved.
10-17-21, 08:41 PM
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A guitar tuner. on final tightening round, tighten each spoke to the exact same note and you can be assured they are all the same tension.
Best thing is that all you have to do is pluck like you are playing a harp. Pluck with one hand tighten with the other, watch the tuner scale.
Very little truing involved.
Best thing is that all you have to do is pluck like you are playing a harp. Pluck with one hand tighten with the other, watch the tuner scale.
Very little truing involved.
I also don't know a harp player to help me with plucking and bang the spoke with a tool.
10-17-21, 10:50 PM
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Building a 700c Rhyno Lite 36 spoke wheel with DT Swiss Alpine3 spokes. This is for a rear wheel build.
Using a Park Tool TM-1 gauge, what would you expect the spoke tension to be in the vicinity of per the TM-1's 0-49 scale? What do you feel is a reasonable variance between spokes?
Using a Park Tool TM-1 gauge, what would you expect the spoke tension to be in the vicinity of per the TM-1's 0-49 scale? What do you feel is a reasonable variance between spokes?
Those are beefy spokes. There is a chart that comes with the tension meter that will tell you which number corresponds to how much tension. It varies with spoke gauge. I'd guess around 25 or so. For the Drive Side. Non Drive Side doesn't matter, it is what it is if the wheel is centered properly and the DS is tensioned properly.
Variation has a lot to do with how good the rims are when you start. To get a round wheel, without a slight hop at the rim seam on something like a Sun rim, I often find I need to vary tensions quite a bit more than 10% right at the seam. Something like a Mavic Open Pro builds out round with more even tensions. So it's not an easily answered question. Just remember that rims are not perfect to start with, and your overarching purpose in this endeavor is to get that thing as round as you can. Once you get that pretty close, you can go back and rebalance out some of the tensions that are uneven.
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10-20-21, 11:05 AM
#14
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I go for 100Kg on the drive side and front. > than 10% is good. It is important to stress relieve the spokes after the wheel is tensioned.
10-21-21, 12:03 PM
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I try to stay within 1 notch non drive side.
I try to stay within 2 notches drive side.
Quality rim with consistent extrusion and well done joints will allow that easily.
But some rims have lousy joints, etc...compromising - how and where and to what extent - is part of the art of wheelbuilding.
=8-|
I try to stay within 2 notches drive side.
Quality rim with consistent extrusion and well done joints will allow that easily.
But some rims have lousy joints, etc...compromising - how and where and to what extent - is part of the art of wheelbuilding.
=8-|
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Disclaimer:
1. I do not claim to be an expert in bicycle mechanics despite my experience.
2. I like anyone will comment in other areas.
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5000+ wheels built since 1984...
Disclaimer:
1. I do not claim to be an expert in bicycle mechanics despite my experience.
2. I like anyone will comment in other areas.
3. I do not own the preexisting concepts of DISH and ERD.
4. I will provide information as I always have to others that I believe will help them protect themselves from unscrupulous mechanics.
5. My all time favorite book is:
Kahane, Howard. Logic and Contemporary Rhetoric: The Use of Reason in Everyday Life
10-24-21, 08:09 AM
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Question for the group; $25, or $80, or $400 spoke tension meter?
is this a tool where a basic gauge will give enough information to proceed, or are the cheap ones genuinely cheap and I’d be as well off guessing tension by feel?
This is for a particular bike whose rear wheel has gone way out of true a couple times now, and if I need to spend too much on tools, I’ll most likely forget about repair and just get a new wheel.
is this a tool where a basic gauge will give enough information to proceed, or are the cheap ones genuinely cheap and I’d be as well off guessing tension by feel?
This is for a particular bike whose rear wheel has gone way out of true a couple times now, and if I need to spend too much on tools, I’ll most likely forget about repair and just get a new wheel.
10-24-21, 08:35 AM
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Question for the group; $25, or $80, or $400 spoke tension meter?
is this a tool where a basic gauge will give enough information to proceed, or are the cheap ones genuinely cheap and I’d be as well off guessing tension by feel?
This is for a particular bike whose rear wheel has gone way out of true a couple times now, and if I need to spend too much on tools, I’ll most likely forget about repair and just get a new wheel.
is this a tool where a basic gauge will give enough information to proceed, or are the cheap ones genuinely cheap and I’d be as well off guessing tension by feel?
This is for a particular bike whose rear wheel has gone way out of true a couple times now, and if I need to spend too much on tools, I’ll most likely forget about repair and just get a new wheel.
If your wheel is damaged the type of tension meter won't change that.
Last edited by MyRedTrek; 10-24-21 at 08:40 AM.
