marius.suiram 

I want to remove the crank set, but I looks that the Parktool ccp-22 I have is not the right one.
It goes in the thread 2 or 3 times around and than stops.
I don't want to force it and destroy the thread.
Do I need a special tool.
I thing I removed before other Campagnolo cranks with this tool.

jdawginsc 

Do you have a Sugino or shimano tool that you need an adjustable for? Half of the time the park tools don’t give me confidence.

marius.suiram 

I don't have one

oneclick 

Make sure

a) the threads are clean
b) the centre part of the extractor is not screwed into the outer part such that it hits the end of the axle after those two or three turns.

marius.suiram 

I did a and b

santa fe 2926 

What ever my old Park extractor tool number is, has two sides, one for TA, and the other ‘standard’ which has always worked on my Campag super record cranks.

jdawginsc 

Does a campy dust cap screw in smoothly? I wonder if someone used a TA or SL extractor and recut the threads...?

JohnDThompson 

That Record crank arm should use a standard 22mm x 1mm extractor. As suggested above, try several versions from different manufacturers. Failing that, Bicycle Research did make a piloted crank extractor thread chaser; perhaps a local shop might have one to run through your crank?

merziac

I would encourage you to get a sharp right angle pick and starting from the back, scribe the threads mm by mm, thread by thread in the unscrewing direction.

You will be able to see if the threads are compromised and if the scribing is cleaning them or not. The right amount of pressure with the pick can often push the threads back into alignment some.

Then a clean known good remover tool can be carefully attempted to thread in, if it goes all the way in and can be properly snugged down an attempt at pulling the arm can be made.

merziac

"Half the time, my Park tools don't give me confidence"

50/50 is not good odds and I don't think they even meet that half the time.

jdawginsc 

I’m a big fan of the separate pieces type extractors.

merziac

I have at least half a dozen pullers, several Suguno's, a couple of Campy's, a Park and a generic Performance out of one of their tool kits, the Park NEVER gets used.

It may get turned into a chaser for situations such as this.

oneclick 

Got one of these?
Brand is Lifu, has a little chrome button with an 8mm hole drilled partway into the backside, so it covers the end of the crank bolt that you just undid and screwed into the end of the extractor.
The hex is the same size as the crank bolt so the same spanner fits both, and it weighs 48g, great for touring.

SJX426 

How often do you need to remove a crank when touring? Asking for someone else.

JulesCW 

When taking the bike apart to fit into an S&S hard case (I do this with our tandem and a large single bike). Admittedly, not an everyday occurrence, though.

tiger1964 

I guess I have been lucky. I always just grab one and go at it. A few days ago, used the Park to pull Campy cranks that have been in place for 40+ years, no trouble at all. I do have a Campy tool and in the future, might reach for that first after reading all this.

jdawginsc 

Here are the Sugino and Shimano types. I highly recommend either.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/18565680786...Bk9SR4TS-vO7YQ
https://www.ebay.com/itm/18562354988...Bk9SR6iQ8PO7YQ

oneclick 

This got (at the time) under airline size limits:

marius.suiram 

Thank you for all your helpful comments.
I bought both tools indicated by @jdawginsc.

jdawginsc 

One would have been fine, They are good ones and if they can’t grab the threads then the threads are the issue.

roadcrankr

With botched threads, I always wondered if one could try something like an old automotive steering wheel puller.
You know, screw back in the crankbolt a few revolutions and use a puller that can grab the backside of the crankarm spider.
Just brainstorming here...never tried it.

merziac

It can be and is often done, seldom pretty, most pullers will not grab the arm without damage, sometimes a lot.

It needs to be held with a clamp of some sort to keep the arms from slipping off as pressure is applied, a hose clamp can be used but won't be strong enough if the arm is stuck very much.

merziac

Yep and we usually get away with it as the threads are normally ok but if not and maybe they have also been compromised in some way and it goes south in a hurry.

Makes a good argument for cleaning and carefully inspecting them before slamming a tool in.

tiger1964 

And perhaps the raison d'être for dust caps?

himespau 

Pretty.