Routing toe clip straps on MTB flats
#1
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Routing toe clip straps on MTB flats
So chrome toe clips and leather straps seemed so * right * for my C&V bike that I had to pick up a set. Having preferred simple MTB flats for a long time, I am trying to set some up with clips & straps, but run into a couple puzzling items. This is perhaps an odd pairing, but hoping someone has suggestions.
1) the outer cage and second "spoke" of the pedals has slots for straps. The first "spoke" has no slot, so the strap has to go either over or under. If over, it does not seem like it would interfere with shoes, and maybe would stay in place better [vs the twist that is often done in straps]. Maybe this is better?
2) Then there is that tab to the cage on the crank side. Maybe the straps are run to the inside (i.e. towards shoes) side of this tab? Maybe the tab exists to help direct the strap upwards and not hit the cranks? Not sure.
1) the outer cage and second "spoke" of the pedals has slots for straps. The first "spoke" has no slot, so the strap has to go either over or under. If over, it does not seem like it would interfere with shoes, and maybe would stay in place better [vs the twist that is often done in straps]. Maybe this is better?
2) Then there is that tab to the cage on the crank side. Maybe the straps are run to the inside (i.e. towards shoes) side of this tab? Maybe the tab exists to help direct the strap upwards and not hit the cranks? Not sure.
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#2
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Under - and a full twist. It's not perfect, but you have an outer slot in the cage, that'll do.
And yes, inside the tab, to keep the strap from rubbing the crank.
And yes, inside the tab, to keep the strap from rubbing the crank.
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You might not need to do the full twist if the strap fits tight enough.
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But one full twist—360 degrees—will present the same surface as no twist whatsoever. The twist is only used to keep the strap from moving when tightened. If the strap is already tight through the pedal opening (as it is on my road bike pedals), then no need to twist—resulting in a longer strap to accommodate larger mountain bike shoes.
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Yep, either full twist or no twist to keep the teeth on the good side of the leather, half twist would be bad
And yep, the buckle will keep migrating around if you don't have a twist in there
And yep, the buckle will keep migrating around if you don't have a twist in there
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But one full twist—360 degrees—will present the same surface as no twist whatsoever. The twist is only used to keep the strap from moving when tightened. If the strap is already tight through the pedal opening (as it is on my road bike pedals), then no need to twist—resulting in a longer strap to accommodate larger mountain bike shoes.
As you were, then.
#10
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Thanks all. I'm a noobie with many C&V items. Based on the above, and the tight slots, they will go without twist and routed beneath the spoke. Will re-assess later if they don't stay in place.
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I bet you re-assess pretty quickly.