Bottom bracket woes
#1
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Bottom bracket woes
So FLBS is 3 weeks behind on repairs so I grabbed a new BB and set to work myself. Old one is toast. We're pretty sure it's a cartridge, but I can't get the old one out, ripped out the spindle to get a better look at what's going on. Using an 18" breaker bar, and the right tool, counter clockwise on the non-drive side. From what I can see, it's just seized and old, but showing a friend a photo, he believes there's a lock ring, but from what I can see, it seems to be just able to accept either the spindle tool or a wrench. Can anyone she's some light on this? If it is a lock ring and not just a cup, can you point me to a tool?
Thanks everyone, ride safe!
Thanks everyone, ride safe!
#2
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If it's a lock ring, channel locks. Turning correct direction for your BB threading?
Shoulda left the spindle in because you're going to have to bolt the tool in on tight ones. You can run a long bolt & washer or all thread & washer instead, but you really want the tool bolted in to not slip.
Some are really tight...
https://www.sheldonbrown.com/cribshe...mbrackets.html
This one the bearings were gone so the spindle was out and toll bolted in with washers and a long bolt.
Some are more stubborn than others.
Shoulda left the spindle in because you're going to have to bolt the tool in on tight ones. You can run a long bolt & washer or all thread & washer instead, but you really want the tool bolted in to not slip.
Some are really tight...
https://www.sheldonbrown.com/cribshe...mbrackets.html
This one the bearings were gone so the spindle was out and toll bolted in with washers and a long bolt.
Some are more stubborn than others.
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The cup reminds me of an old Suntour VX bottom bracket, but the teeth aren't the right size. It had a lockring and allowed for an adjustable chainline, IIRC.
Last edited by Rolla; 05-19-22 at 09:42 AM.
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#4
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If it's a lock ring, channel locks. Turning correct direction for your BB threading?
Shoulda left the spindle in because you're going to have to bolt the tool in on tight ones. You can run a long bolt & washer or all thread & washer instead, but you really want the tool bolted in to not slip.
Some are really tight...
https://www.sheldonbrown.com/cribshe...mbrackets.html
This one the bearings were gone so the spindle was out and toll bolted in with washers and a long bolt.
Some are more stubborn than others.
Shoulda left the spindle in because you're going to have to bolt the tool in on tight ones. You can run a long bolt & washer or all thread & washer instead, but you really want the tool bolted in to not slip.
Some are really tight...
https://www.sheldonbrown.com/cribshe...mbrackets.html
This one the bearings were gone so the spindle was out and toll bolted in with washers and a long bolt.
Some are more stubborn than others.
Would a locking typically be standard threading? Ordered a lockring wrench, should arrive tomorrow, thanks!
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For some BBs we have used a pneumatic impact wrench and a BB tool with a 1/2 or 3/8 drive fitting on it. A very (thankfully) cups have had to be ground and broken out of the shell. Andy
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You can also remove the lock ring with a hammer and cold chisel, with tangential impact.
#7
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Some shops might let you borrow this old jobber
Mine came in handy for a bunch of pre-9speed BB's.
It's a big goofy tool that people give me grief over. Until they need it. lol
Otherwise, yeah, wail on it with a big chisel and hammer. Ya got like eight notches to destroy!
It's a big goofy tool that people give me grief over. Until they need it. lol
Otherwise, yeah, wail on it with a big chisel and hammer. Ya got like eight notches to destroy!
#8
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A little penetrating oil may make things easier.
Apply and tap the ring with a small wrench to "ring it". The vibration helps the oil to wick in.
Apply and tap the ring with a small wrench to "ring it". The vibration helps the oil to wick in.
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#9
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Just picked one up actually 🤣. If it doesn't work. I might just break out the dremel
#10
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Been spraying it with wd40, used some floss to open up the areas. And pulled my seatpost and sprayed a good 30 seconds into the frame. Never heard of ringing it, but I do have a small wrench and I don't feel bad about smacking it around 😂
#11
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WD-40 is a poor penetrating oil. Only thing I use if for is degreasing gummed up shifters.
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#12
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#13
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Something called PENETRATING OIL.
There's various brands.
I use Liquid Wrench in the can with a spout so I can use tiny amounts in a hypodermic needle.
Spraying it all over hell & beyond just makes a mess and wastes product.
For your case, I'd just remove the lock ring with a cold chisel.
There's various brands.
I use Liquid Wrench in the can with a spout so I can use tiny amounts in a hypodermic needle.
Spraying it all over hell & beyond just makes a mess and wastes product.
For your case, I'd just remove the lock ring with a cold chisel.
#14
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Thread Starter
Something called PENETRATING OIL.
There's various brands.
I use Liquid Wrench in the can with a spout so I can use tiny amounts in a hypodermic needle.
Spraying it all over hell & beyond just makes a mess and wastes product.
For your case, I'd just remove the lock ring with a cold chisel.
There's various brands.
I use Liquid Wrench in the can with a spout so I can use tiny amounts in a hypodermic needle.
Spraying it all over hell & beyond just makes a mess and wastes product.
For your case, I'd just remove the lock ring with a cold chisel.
#15
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#16
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🤣 I did just say I haven't been able to find any locally, which would include stores, or did you assume I was just ransacking random garages? As my bikes not rideable, I'm pretty limited in the number of stores I could potentially visit as I don't drive. Not sure what the hostility is about, cheers, and thanks for the help 😁
Last edited by ironhands; 05-19-22 at 02:30 PM.
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Liquid Wrench and PB Blaster are 2 penetrants that should be available at any hardware store. But I agree that you might as well try a hammer and punch on that lockring.
#18
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Unfortunately I've only seen liquid wrench products at my Lowe's, but lubricant not penetrating oil. We're having supply issues in the great white north. I did see some PB on Amazon, but it's not shipping anytime soon, so yeah, as I said above, rather than oil, gotta go elbow grease and hope that the new lockring wrench is sufficient in combination with the wd40. Appreciate the help!
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If you have any acetone and Automatic Transmission fluid on hand you can make about the best penetrating oil available by mixing them 50:50.
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🤣 I did just say I haven't been able to find any locally, which would include stores, or did you assume I was just ransacking random garages? As my bikes not rideable, I'm pretty limited in the number of stores I could potentially visit as I don't drive. Not sure what the hostility is about, cheers, and thanks for the help 😁
That's just Bill, ignore list a mile long. It's the internet, don't worry about it too much.
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#21
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I do have acetone, I do a lot of 3d printing and miniature painting. Acetone and brake fluid make great paint remover. I'll pickup some ATF, thanks so much!!!
#22
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Kroil is the best, PB blaster runner up. Acetone/ATF 50:50 mix if you want to make your own, but I just serviced 2 automatic transmissions this week and ATF is now $11/qt and used 10 quarts. Any auto parts or hardware store should have some sort of penetrating oil like liquid wrench or a CRC brand equal.
That's just Bill, ignore list a mile long. It's the internet, don't worry about it too much.
That's just Bill, ignore list a mile long. It's the internet, don't worry about it too much.
Ya, I've been on the internet since the 90s, there's always someone 🤣 have a great night!
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I like stuff called freeze-off but that is probably hard to find
the other thing in these situations is hard whacks, steel steel to help break things loose, I have often found hard whacks help get things started better than long levers,
good luck
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(looking for Torpado Super light frame/fork or for Raleigh International frame fork 58cm)
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