1950's Frejus project thread - heavy patina content
#101
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I'm curious to hear more about the oiler ports on the BB and head tube. Does this mean the associated bearings are more of an oiled system than packed grease?
I will be breaking everything down when I get it, so will be able to peek inside the bearing races/bearings to see what kind of shape they are in. I'd normally clean then pack with Phil waterproof grease, but the oil fittings seem to imply another approach.
I will be breaking everything down when I get it, so will be able to peek inside the bearing races/bearings to see what kind of shape they are in. I'd normally clean then pack with Phil waterproof grease, but the oil fittings seem to imply another approach.
By the way, I've tried both, and snake oil is better than sperm oil. And yes, I did just make that up.
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#102
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Anyone who wants one, I'll sell you mine. Better yet, get a drill press vise from Harbor Freight. It's a dang handy tool to have around for all kinds of purposes. For example, it is perfect for holding cotters while you file the tapers just right. And when you've got them just right, it's a great cotter press.
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Last edited by rhm; 03-20-21 at 06:34 PM.
#103
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Simple word of caution on the Harbor Freight drill press vice as a cotter press:
It may actually work, or the casting may crumble like Granny's shortbread. I had the shortbread experience. You may or may not.
It may actually work, or the casting may crumble like Granny's shortbread. I had the shortbread experience. You may or may not.
#104
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Oh, and while I'm at it, I have yet another Harbor Freight tool, I think it's a gear puller maybe? that I also modified into a cotter press. It's pretty cool, but I don't think it has the torque required. The drill press vise is better.
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Fair enough. Full disclosure, my drill press vise (which I really do use as a cotter press) is probably not a Harbor Freight one. I got it at a garage sale for a dollar. I've had good luck with other cheap POS tools from Harbor Freight, though, so I figure their drill press vise is worth a try. I do have a genuine Harbor Freight heavy duty chain tool of some kind that I modified into a cotter press. It's better, for my purposes, than the BikeSmith Design tool; but I still prefer the drill press vise.
Oh, and while I'm at it, I have yet another Harbor Freight tool, I think it's a gear puller maybe? that I also modified into a cotter press. It's pretty cool, but I don't think it has the torque required. The drill press vise is better.
Oh, and while I'm at it, I have yet another Harbor Freight tool, I think it's a gear puller maybe? that I also modified into a cotter press. It's pretty cool, but I don't think it has the torque required. The drill press vise is better.
Sorry for the minor thread detour. Very cool project.
I did end up getting a cotter press from a moped website called treatland.tv, though it required a little bit of modification to work on the Stronglight double I put it to first use on. It is pretty stout, though, and cheaper than the Bikesmith one. Shipped fast from California, too.
#106
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First, is that a tubing stamp on the seat tube just above the BB?
Also, fyi, in case you still only have the one bar plug - https://www.ebay.it/itm/Frejus-eroic...sAAOSws5xgVPF1
Also, fyi, in case you still only have the one bar plug - https://www.ebay.it/itm/Frejus-eroic...sAAOSws5xgVPF1
Thanks everyone for the ongoing input and advice - very much appreciated.
I'm keeping my eyes on the Park CR-2 tools, and have not been in the workshop in several days. I will get back at it soon.
Good stuff - keep it coming!
-Scott
#107
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Crankset rebuilt
Just finished rebuilding/refurbishing the crankset.
Simplex is the only marking I see, so not sure about Magistroni.
Simplex is the only marking I see, so not sure about Magistroni.
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no worries, it's a real Giostra...
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no worries, it's a real Giostra...
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#109
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I’m having difficulty finding early to mid 50’s 120/100 Gran Sport (3 piece construction, it seems) hubs that I’d feel comfortable building and riding. Most seem to be pretty well used/wallowed and I shudder to imagine getting them to full tension. I think this is one area where I will draw the line - safety and functionality > historical accuracy (same with well used rims of similar age).
I’m increasingly on the “close to the right era, but NOS” boat for hubs/rims.
I am finding some NOS shells, and would need to source axle sets and caps/outside races (which is easier said than done).
Are there other hubs of the era that might be suitable?
Otherwise, I’m finding some NOS hubsets from the 60’s/70’s that should slot right in, and give me some piece of mind (since I plan to ride the bike, not display it).
Example below - I’m inclined to do something like this unless the NOS shell build-up is more feasible than I am finding.
Open to suggestions.
I’m increasingly on the “close to the right era, but NOS” boat for hubs/rims.
I am finding some NOS shells, and would need to source axle sets and caps/outside races (which is easier said than done).
Are there other hubs of the era that might be suitable?
Otherwise, I’m finding some NOS hubsets from the 60’s/70’s that should slot right in, and give me some piece of mind (since I plan to ride the bike, not display it).
Example below - I’m inclined to do something like this unless the NOS shell build-up is more feasible than I am finding.
Open to suggestions.
These wheels are used regularly. Not a display bike. No problem at all.
Another wheel is built with a 1930s FB track hub that was put to side ages ago because the axle was badly bent. Replaced with Tipo axle and now a qr fixed hub. A bit queasy with washers bringing original narrow hub up to 120mm. But again the wheel is in regular use at 120kgpf. Nicest thing you can do to old bikes is use them.
#110
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Is there a recommended source (besides a well-equipped hardware store) for the chainring bolts? As you can see, several of the ones on this crankset have seen better days, and one of the heads broke off under mild torque as I was re-tightening.
One thought is to simply get replacements (I'm a fan of stainless hardware if chrome isn't available) at the local hardware store, which has a dizzying array of nuts and bolts.
I'd retain the nuts on the back, since they are very specific.
I'm looking online for sources, with no real luck other than procuring a complete crankset.
One thought is to simply get replacements (I'm a fan of stainless hardware if chrome isn't available) at the local hardware store, which has a dizzying array of nuts and bolts.
I'd retain the nuts on the back, since they are very specific.
I'm looking online for sources, with no real luck other than procuring a complete crankset.
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a wonderful source have found for fasteners is the Bolin Equipment Co. of Berkeley, California
they are a stockist for fractional, metric and Whitworth, all finishes, righthand and lefthand, including the odd "puzzle" head fasteners
they stock no cycle specific fittings
https://www.bowlinbolts.com/
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a wonderful source have found for fasteners is the Bolin Equipment Co. of Berkeley, California
they are a stockist for fractional, metric and Whitworth, all finishes, righthand and lefthand, including the odd "puzzle" head fasteners
they stock no cycle specific fittings
https://www.bowlinbolts.com/
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#112
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#113
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I have a full Universal Mod.51 brakeset on its way now.
Next up, hubs and rims...... Looking at Nisi, Ambrosio and Fiamme for rims, and Gran Sport (of course) for hubs. I'd LOVE some input here, as I don't want to end up with something sketchy. I intend to ride this bike. Tubulars, of course
Now, I'm 99.9% sure I'll need to replace those brake pads. Open to suggestions.....
Side note: at least the seller could've flipped the reversed brake pad before the photo shoot
Next up, hubs and rims...... Looking at Nisi, Ambrosio and Fiamme for rims, and Gran Sport (of course) for hubs. I'd LOVE some input here, as I don't want to end up with something sketchy. I intend to ride this bike. Tubulars, of course
Now, I'm 99.9% sure I'll need to replace those brake pads. Open to suggestions.....
Side note: at least the seller could've flipped the reversed brake pad before the photo shoot
First and foremost, put some Kool Stop pads in there. If you can fit good modern cables and housing on without offending your period-appropriateness standards, I suggest doing that, too. In my book, safety trumps period correctness on this score.
Second, with Kool Stops and good cables, they will stop you . . . eventually. They are flexy, especially that rear one. Now, I am a large person (255#) and I ride in a hilly area, so adjust your reading of this accordingly. But I found them to be scary, to the point where I made sure to use them a lot to keep my speed well under my usual descending speed. I just could not trust them to keep me safe otherwise. YMMV. I hope it does. But do be careful.
You did find a very nice looking set of them, though. They certainly will look great on that bike.
On a different tack, regarding period correctness in your parts selections: I think you are doing great. When I was trying to revamp a 1961 Bianchi Competizione, I decided to go what I called "period appropriate." I pretended i had had the bike when new and I had upgraded/replaced some parts along the way in the normal course of events. That gives you a fair amount of flexibility in selecting parts while still keeping with the C&V spirit. Make of that thought what you will - it's worth exactly what you are paying for it.
It is obvious that Frejus found the right home, and that is a good thing.
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#114
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A word or two about Universal 51s. They are a 70 year old design and are based on an even older design. In my experience, they act their age. That is not meant as a compliment.
First and foremost, put some Kool Stop pads in there. If you can fit good modern cables and housing on without offending your period-appropriateness standards, I suggest doing that, too. In my book, safety trumps period correctness on this score.
Second, with Kool Stops and good cables, they will stop you . . . eventually. They are flexy, especially that rear one. Now, I am a large person (255#) and I ride in a hilly area, so adjust your reading of this accordingly. But I found them to be scary, to the point where I made sure to use them a lot to keep my speed well under my usual descending speed. I just could not trust them to keep me safe otherwise. YMMV. I hope it does. But do be careful.
You did find a very nice looking set of them, though. They certainly will look great on that bike.
On a different tack, regarding period correctness in your parts selections: I think you are doing great. When I was trying to revamp a 1961 Bianchi Competizione, I decided to go what I called "period appropriate." I pretended i had had the bike when new and I had upgraded/replaced some parts along the way in the normal course of events. That gives you a fair amount of flexibility in selecting parts while still keeping with the C&V spirit. Make of that thought what you will - it's worth exactly what you are paying for it.
It is obvious that Frejus found the right home, and that is a good thing.
First and foremost, put some Kool Stop pads in there. If you can fit good modern cables and housing on without offending your period-appropriateness standards, I suggest doing that, too. In my book, safety trumps period correctness on this score.
Second, with Kool Stops and good cables, they will stop you . . . eventually. They are flexy, especially that rear one. Now, I am a large person (255#) and I ride in a hilly area, so adjust your reading of this accordingly. But I found them to be scary, to the point where I made sure to use them a lot to keep my speed well under my usual descending speed. I just could not trust them to keep me safe otherwise. YMMV. I hope it does. But do be careful.
You did find a very nice looking set of them, though. They certainly will look great on that bike.
On a different tack, regarding period correctness in your parts selections: I think you are doing great. When I was trying to revamp a 1961 Bianchi Competizione, I decided to go what I called "period appropriate." I pretended i had had the bike when new and I had upgraded/replaced some parts along the way in the normal course of events. That gives you a fair amount of flexibility in selecting parts while still keeping with the C&V spirit. Make of that thought what you will - it's worth exactly what you are paying for it.
It is obvious that Frejus found the right home, and that is a good thing.
I have read that the 51’s are prone to cracking on the arms, so the CX model is on my list of potential upgrades.
Crankset bolt update.
I’ve found suitable replacements... 5mm x 12mm .8 thread bolts.
8mm heads vs 10mm
#115
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A word or two about Universal 51s. They are a 70 year old design and are based on an even older design. In my experience, they act their age. That is not meant as a compliment.
First and foremost, put some Kool Stop pads in there. If you can fit good modern cables and housing on without offending your period-appropriateness standards, I suggest doing that, too. In my book, safety trumps period correctness on this score.
Second, with Kool Stops and good cables, they will stop you . . . eventually. They are flexy, especially that rear one.
First and foremost, put some Kool Stop pads in there. If you can fit good modern cables and housing on without offending your period-appropriateness standards, I suggest doing that, too. In my book, safety trumps period correctness on this score.
Second, with Kool Stops and good cables, they will stop you . . . eventually. They are flexy, especially that rear one.
On the crank bolts I had to do a similar thing with a Magistroni crank (Torpado pantograph) - I ground down the heads to remove the markings to make them look a bit more period correct (thought about dishing them too but that proved to be a bit to OCD even for me....besides I didn't have a suitable drill bit handy).
#116
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Just arrived from the old country:
Any tips on restoring these? Oxalic acid bath, perhaps, followed by 0000 steel wool?
Any tips on restoring these? Oxalic acid bath, perhaps, followed by 0000 steel wool?
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#117
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I'd try a brass brush myself.
Great to see you making progress!
Brent
Great to see you making progress!
Brent
#119
Fuji Fan
Did this ever get posted as a finished build? Are there pictures available? I wonder if canyoneagle is still coming here, as it seems like he/she has not signed in for a while.
#120
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Did this ever get posted as a finished build? Are there pictures available? I wonder if canyoneagle is still coming here, as it seems like he/she has not signed in for a while.
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