What's happening with tradition?
#51
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#52
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I fully agree.
If he is anal retentive, which is the proper term rather than anal (which is more of a hobby than a problem), then he'd be equally concerned that the skewer would be closed upward midway between the seat stay and the chain stay.
If he is anal retentive, which is the proper term rather than anal (which is more of a hobby than a problem), then he'd be equally concerned that the skewer would be closed upward midway between the seat stay and the chain stay.
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#53
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Same here. He would be better off not obsessing with label orientation and doing some cleaning and maintenance. If he continues neglecting
the bike the labels will be so cruddy he won't be able to see them anyway.
#56
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I have better things to do with my time, like build the wheel straight and dished and with even tension.
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#58
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I guess I don't get it. How is this supposed to help me? I've built a lot of wheels and thought about this on and off for some time, and I can't see a good way to solve the problem other than prior experience and trial and error.
The way I see it, I would have to undo and redo the trailing spokes of one side and possibly both at least once. I could try one orientation, see how it looks, and then I'd write it down or mark it and try again, unless I got lucky and nailed it the first time. Chances are, I'll be off by a hole or two.
The way I see it, I would have to undo and redo the trailing spokes of one side and possibly both at least once. I could try one orientation, see how it looks, and then I'd write it down or mark it and try again, unless I got lucky and nailed it the first time. Chances are, I'll be off by a hole or two.
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#59
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#60
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The trouble is, it can create a lot of trial and error during the lacing. How, exactly, am I supposed to know exactly where the logo will end up, until I've got at least the pulling/trailing spokes of one side laced? Better yet, both sides. And then you gotta unscrew them and start again. And then you forget which way you were turning the damn hub in the first place. Sure, back when the only high-end option was Campy, and all you had was Record hi- and lo-flange, mostly in 36h, you would just go look at another wheel to get the proper holes so it would line up on your first try. But with several tens of models of Schmidt dynamo hubs alone (just to name one boutique hub company as an example), I can't hope to get it right on the first try. Let's not even get into the boutique insanely-lightweight rear hub market! It's wild out there. Also, what's the center of the logo anyway? Dead center geometrically? Or if it's two words, do I want the center space between those? How about two words plus a smaller icon? Or different size type faces? I'm looking at you, American Classic!
I have better things to do with my time, like build the wheel straight and dished and with even tension.
I have better things to do with my time, like build the wheel straight and dished and with even tension.
Vintage Campy hubs are the only ones that really fit this "rule", IMO, but I always try to nail the peep hole thing if there's something to look at on the hub. I almost never have anyone notice, btw, but that's the way I was taught BITD. Once you've built a few hundred wheels the same way over and over again, it's like riding a bike. The first set of wheels I built after a decade or two hiatus, I didn't even have a truing stand or dishing gauge, neither of which are necessary to build a good wheel. Nailed the peek a boo first try:
If you can't figure out which spoke hole to start with, get a pair of already built wheels, stare down the valve hole to the hub, and make a dot with a Sharpie on the hub that's centered directly under your peep hole. From there you can decipher where to start with spokes.
I mean, if tradition means anything to you.
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If someone tells you that you have enough bicycles and you don't need any more, stop talking to them. You don't need that kind of negativity in your life.
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Last edited by gugie; 06-21-21 at 11:07 PM.
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I'm sure you've built more wheels than me, but both sets of wheels I have built from scratch the hub logos are aligned with the valve hole*. No undoing spokes, just a bit of forethought and some scribbled plans. Get the first one in the right place and the rest will follow.
* Except it's actually the grease port on the Chorus hubs.
* Except it's actually the grease port on the Chorus hubs.
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The trouble is, it can create a lot of trial and error during the lacing. How, exactly, am I supposed to know exactly where the logo will end up, until I've got at least the pulling/trailing spokes of one side laced? Better yet, both sides. And then you gotta unscrew them and start again. And then you forget which way you were turning the damn hub in the first place. Sure, back when the only high-end option was Campy, and all you had was Record hi- and lo-flange, mostly in 36h, you would just go look at another wheel to get the proper holes so it would line up on your first try. But with several tens of models of Schmidt dynamo hubs alone (just to name one boutique hub company as an example), I can't hope to get it right on the first try. Let's not even get into the boutique insanely-lightweight rear hub market! It's wild out there. Also, what's the center of the logo anyway? Dead center geometrically? Or if it's two words, do I want the center space between those? How about two words plus a smaller icon? Or different size type faces? I'm looking at you, American Classic!
I have better things to do with my time, like build the wheel straight and dished and with even tension.
I have better things to do with my time, like build the wheel straight and dished and with even tension.
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But having every thing on the bicycle lined up in the same direction is a very Groovy Thing. That's how we keep our Groove.
A bike that's lined up, mechanically sound, and dirty from being ridden is a beautiful thing...
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#65
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I think we're missing the obvious answer, that is, if you want to line the logo up with the valve hole.
Step 1. Remove old label by any means necessary
Step 2. Apply small sticker with said label on the hub, lining it up with the valve hole.
Step 1. Remove old label by any means necessary
Step 2. Apply small sticker with said label on the hub, lining it up with the valve hole.
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If someone tells you that you have enough bicycles and you don't need any more, stop talking to them. You don't need that kind of negativity in your life.
If someone tells you that you have enough bicycles and you don't need any more, stop talking to them. You don't need that kind of negativity in your life.