Quick release recommendations...
07-13-21, 10:44 PM
#26
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: Portland, OR
Posts: 12,891
Bikes: (2) ti TiCycles, 2007 w/ triple and 2011 fixed, 1979 Peter Mooney, ~1983 Trek 420 now fixed and ~1973 Raleigh Carlton Competition gravel grinder
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Ti skewers fail. Seen way too many.
To echo everyone else - sorry but Shimano internal cam skewers are the only correct option. I even stopped providing skewers for our wheels we sold.
As for Shimano on SRAM - who cares. Last SRAM skewer I saw was the same skewer we were branding for ourselves just with the SRAM logo on it. I still recommend a Shimano skewer.
To echo everyone else - sorry but Shimano internal cam skewers are the only correct option. I even stopped providing skewers for our wheels we sold.
As for Shimano on SRAM - who cares. Last SRAM skewer I saw was the same skewer we were branding for ourselves just with the SRAM logo on it. I still recommend a Shimano skewer.
With well aligned vertical dropouts, a poor QR skewer works just fine. If you are comfortable with a lesser skewer in the front hub, where failure will lead to a bad crash, near guaranteed, go for the light stuff. If you want a QR that really is secure, don't settle for less than a steel skewer.
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07-13-21, 10:57 PM
#27
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Location: Portland, OR
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Bikes: (2) ti TiCycles, 2007 w/ triple and 2011 fixed, 1979 Peter Mooney, ~1983 Trek 420 now fixed and ~1973 Raleigh Carlton Competition gravel grinder
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This is an option for Phil Wood hubs. I use them on one front wheel I have on my city bike that has a very stiff Jandd (sp) lowrider stye rack. Those bolts are shorter and sleeker than any QR and far easier to get through the rack. (Phil uses a 6mm allen which is interchangeable with a common English allen.)
07-14-21, 04:52 PM
#28
Senior Member
Shimano skewers here as well. I've used the DT Swiss RWS skewers for awhile, but got tired of ratcheting it around the fork's dropout (took longer). I didn't notice a difference in feel.
