dvai

I have a Red etap on a road bike. Today I felt some gear were getting stuck and not shifting. So I started playing with the microadjuster which is super easy to do while riding.

I then realized the rear hub was a bit lose and that was doing it. So after I tightened up the hub I had to adjust again.

That got me thinging. Should it ever be needed to micro adjust electronic group-sets? With cables is expected considering they stretch..

Also, I wonder how to find the perfect "sweet spot"

cxwrench

Cables don't 'stretch'. And, from page 79 of the SRAM AXS user manual:

79Align the upper pulley with the center of the 2nd-largest cog by adjusting the rear derailleurress and hold the shifter AXS button (1a) while pressing the shift paddle inward (1b). The left shifter will adjust the derailleur inboard, and the right shifter will adjust the derailleur outboard.The rear derailleur may not appear to move. Watch for the derailleur LED to flash to confirm the derailleur executed the command.

dvai

I know how to adjust it. But there are 2-3 setting that feel "ok". IN other words, how to achieve shifting perfection with micro adjusting

Kabuto

Trial and error. There's only one setting with my DI2 bike that's the "sweet spot". Took a while to find it.

tempocyclist

I think I've had to micro-adjust the rear derailleur on my original 10-speed Ultegra Di2 once in 5-6 years.

cxwrench

Try all 3 and go w/ whichever one seems to work best. I know what you're talking about, you can easily be off 1-2 clicks either way and it will shift just fine. Don't overthink it, if it starts acting up or bother you go a click or 2 in the other direction.

Kimmo 

If your electronic shifting needs adjusting, it's almost certainly a sign that something is bent or loose.

The way to find the sweet spot is to set it so neither upshifts nor downshifts happen slowly. Find the point on each side where you can tell it makes a difference and go in between. Or just use your eyecrometer and make the chain go straight onto the cog.

Yeah, what 3/4 of everyone calls stretch is just ferrules bedding in and the cable taking a set around any tight bends. It can be largely avoided by pre-stressing the cable upon fitment.

GlennR

I have Red eTap since February 2016 and have put over 28,000 miles on it, i've done the micro adjustment exactly 1 time. This was after it's "winter" cleaning where I R&R the wheels, cassette and RD to be disassembled, cleaned and reassembled. I also R&R the chain, chainrings and crank.

Otherwise it's dead on all the other times i've taken the bike apart.

Kimmo 

I was wondering what the red machine on your bench was, but after looking at the pic I'm gonna guess it's something to do with distributors.

BTW, you just clocked up 8k posts

GlennR

Sun 600 Distributor Tester... I restore Bosch distributors for all the European makes from the 40s, 50s and 60s..

cxwrench

^That's pretty cool!^

popeye

[QUOTE=cxwrench;22113333]Cables don't 'stretch'. And, from page 79 of the SRAM AXS user manual:
Cables don't stretch but housings wear. I thought you were a mechanic.

cxwrench

[QUOTE=popeye;22123441]What are you rambling about?

popeye

[QUOTE=cxwrench;22123482]One sentence ramble?
Cables will wear grooves in the housing where the cable bends and will be accelerated
if you are stretching against the lower limit screw.

This from a real CX mech:

Ask the Mechanics: All Things Cables, Housing and Cable ...

https://www.cxmagazine.com/

Nov 15, 2017 — Cable and housing maintenance is essential for effective shifting and braking. ... bikes after each race as well as before to monitor wear and tear and note ... Some cables will groove the liner and cause it to crack prematurely, ...
________________________________________________________________

I have never seen one crack but if the shift cable still drags after replacement the housing probably has a groove and needs to be replaced. Me

popeye

That brings back memories of when I took a Marelliplex dist to Louie Unser Racing Engines. This dist had a history of not
quite being able to be modified to racing spec so I told them to get as close to 48 deg advance at 2800 dist rpm (crank speed /2).
as they could. Well they were able to get it to 4800 which was a little more than I wanted and a bill for $700 labor.

cxwrench

[QUOTE=popeye;22124004]What is your deal? The OP asked in post 1 about ETAP...I copy/pasted the instructions for ETAP. You start talking about housing wear. What does that have to do w/ this thread? That's right...nothing.

As for me being a CX mechanic my time working for pro/elite level racers started in '03/'04. I've built and maintained numerous bikes for a bunch of national champions. You can trust me when I say 'been there, done that'.

popeye

[QUOTE=cxwrench;22124344][QUOTE=popeye;22124004]
What is your deal? The OP asked in post 1 about ETAP...I copy/pasted the instructions for ETAP. You start talking about housing wear. What does that have to do w/ this thread? That's right...nothing.

I'm replying to your comment "Cables don't 'stretch'. And, from page 79 of the SRAM AXS user manual:"
I agree it has nothing to do with ETAP.

Kimmo 

Cables don't stretch.

cxwrench

OP said this in post #1. That is what I was replying to. Is it that hard to read every post in it's entirety so you actually understand what's going on?

[QUOTE=popeye;22124365][QUOTE=cxwrench;22124344]See above.

popeye

Troublemaker.

popeye

[QUOTE=cxwrench;22124775]OP said this in post #1. That is what I was replying to. Is it that hard to read every post in it's entirety so you actually understand what's going on?

[QUOTE=popeye;22124365]Fair enough, I'm more guilty at that than you.