Go Back  Bike Forums > Bike Forums > General Cycling Discussion
Reload this Page >

When internal cable routing sucks

Search
Notices
General Cycling Discussion Have a cycling related question or comment that doesn't fit in one of the other specialty forums? Drop on in and post in here! When possible, please select the forum above that most fits your post!

When internal cable routing sucks

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 07-21-21, 11:26 PM
  #26  
mstateglfr 
Sunshine
 
mstateglfr's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: Des Moines, IA
Posts: 16,605

Bikes: '18 class built steel roadbike, '19 Fairlight Secan, '88 Schwinn Premis , Black Mountain Cycles Monstercross V4, '89 Novara Trionfo

Mentioned: 123 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 10947 Post(s)
Liked 7,474 Times in 4,181 Posts
Originally Posted by GlennR
Sram eTap... problem solved.
but then you have derailleurs only a mother could love.


...I thought I posted this earlier. It's not really funny to begin with, but even less funny for what seems like the second time.
and yet, I've thought it twice now so clearlynits worth posting!
mstateglfr is online now  
Old 07-22-21, 02:06 AM
  #27  
Lazyass
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Minas Ithil
Posts: 9,173
Mentioned: 66 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2432 Post(s)
Liked 638 Times in 395 Posts
Originally Posted by GlennR
I don't get the point of this topic.
The point was basically the OP asking how people deal with routing internal cables. He's researching. Not sure why that's a problem.
Lazyass is offline  
Old 07-22-21, 02:35 AM
  #28  
TiHabanero
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2012
Posts: 4,457
Mentioned: 15 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1741 Post(s)
Liked 1,369 Times in 718 Posts
WhyFi, you bring up a good point, why accept anything one says on a forum. You don't know me, I don't know you. Your opinion of my wrenching skills is based on what? Not really sure, however my opinion on your skills as a wrench are not forthcoming. as it is irrelevant to the topic of internal routing of cables and lines. Shall we agree to disagree? If not, we have missed an opportunity to bring more light to this world.
TiHabanero is offline  
Old 07-22-21, 03:13 AM
  #29  
Badger6
Obsessed with Eddington
 
Badger6's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: Brussels (BE) 🇧🇪
Posts: 1,330

Bikes: '16 Spesh Diverge, '14 Spesh Fatboy, '18 Spesh Epic, '18 Spesh SL6, '21 Spesh SL7, '21 Spesh Diverge...and maybe n+1?

Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 532 Post(s)
Liked 621 Times in 368 Posts
Originally Posted by jayp410
How do you deal with this?
Di2 and hydraulic brakes.
Badger6 is offline  
Old 07-22-21, 04:47 AM
  #30  
GlennR
On Your Left
 
GlennR's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Long Island, New York, USA
Posts: 8,373

Bikes: Trek Emonda SLR, Sram eTap, Zipp 303

Mentioned: 34 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3004 Post(s)
Liked 2,433 Times in 1,187 Posts
Originally Posted by Lazyass
The point was basically the OP asking how people deal with routing internal cables. He's researching. Not sure why that's a problem.
It should not be a problem, all they need to do is get on of the magnet tools like the Park.

https://www.amazon.com/Park-Tool-Int...25062811&psc=1
GlennR is offline  
Likes For GlennR:
Old 07-22-21, 07:24 AM
  #31  
iReadBlitz
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2021
Location: Los Angeles
Posts: 11

Bikes: '21 Specialized Allez Elite

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4 Post(s)
Liked 13 Times in 6 Posts
Originally Posted by TiHabanero
Had to route rear brake line from the caliper to the lever completely internally routed. Could not have done it alone as it required two people, one to guide the hose to the opening in head tube and the other person twisting the hose to get it past the internally routed rear derailleur cable where the hose was getting hung up. Complete bulls**t.

Internally routed cables and hoses are for boy racer wannabes. They solve nothing and add a level of complexity not necessary for one of the simplest transit machines.
Externally routed cables and hoses are for boy mechanic wannabes. They are ugly and add a level of over simplicity that is not necessary for one of the simplest transit machines to wrench on.

/s ... kind of
iReadBlitz is offline  
Old 07-22-21, 07:26 AM
  #32  
WhyFi
Senior Member
 
WhyFi's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: TC, MN
Posts: 39,516

Bikes: R3 Disc, Haanjo

Mentioned: 354 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 20808 Post(s)
Liked 9,450 Times in 4,668 Posts
Originally Posted by TiHabanero
If not, we have missed an opportunity to bring more light to this world.
Lol. Interesting sentiment from someone that entered the thread with the declaration that internally routed cables and brake lines were only for "boy racer wannabes."

Feel free to hold on to your own opinion, and I'll continue to believe that internal routing shouldn't vex anyone, of at least moderate ingenuity, too greatly.
WhyFi is offline  
Old 07-22-21, 10:10 AM
  #33  
Rdmonster69
Shawn of the Dead
 
Join Date: Apr 2021
Posts: 578
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 277 Post(s)
Liked 448 Times in 216 Posts
I always dab a little superglue on the end of fresh cut cables ...... prevents fraying.

I will likely have internal cables on my next bike if I don't go Di2. I like the way they look.

I am not a racer wanna be .... Im a slow old guy with some spare money to spend.
Rdmonster69 is offline  
Likes For Rdmonster69:
Old 07-22-21, 10:32 AM
  #34  
MoAlpha
• —
 
Join Date: Jun 2015
Location: Land of Pleasant Living
Posts: 12,218

Bikes: Shmikes

Mentioned: 59 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 10151 Post(s)
Liked 5,843 Times in 3,147 Posts
You are never going to pull a new internal cable on the road and I wouldn't carry such a thing even on an externally routed bike. For a broken RD cable, make sure you have a place on the frame, e.g., a bottle cage, to anchor the broken cable with enough tension to put it in a rideable gear. Rather than trying to cleat off or tie the cable under tension, make it fast to a zip tie and attach that to the anchor point, using the zip to add tension.

On my internally routed bike, I have a removable guide under the BB, which provides access to the interior of the shell. I slide two pieces of cable sheath, one from the chain stay exit to the BB and one from the BB to the exit on the down tube, along the old cable with a break under the BB. That makes running the new cable a piece of cake. I have also used the old cable to pull a messenger line, but you have to do a meticulous job taping the ends together or it will catch. I keep thinking about getting a cabling kit, but the sheath thing keeps working so well that I haven't bothered.
MoAlpha is offline  
Old 07-22-21, 11:41 AM
  #35  
jackb
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Missoula, Montana
Posts: 694

Bikes: Trek Domane SL5, Trek Checkpoint SL5, Cannndale Trail SE 4, Specialized Langster

Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 162 Post(s)
Liked 134 Times in 72 Posts
Originally Posted by ShannonM
This reminds me of an episode of Car Talk, when some dude called in and told Tom & Ray that he and his wife had a Honda Accord, (early 1990s, IIRC,) with like 245,000 miles on it.

They'd never changed the oil. Just checked it every so often and added some when it got a bit low.

Dude's question was "so, should I do an oil change?" To which Click and Clack both responded with some version of "Dear God, No!!! If you do, your car will be dead in a week!", followed by much existential angst about "everything we know is wrong" and "have we been ripping off our customers for all these years?"

Seriously, you've been riding the same cables for 45 years??? Man, I ain't been livin' right!

--Shannon
No, of course not. I've never owned the same bicycle for more than ten years. I change bikes after around 10 or so years.
jackb is offline  
Old 07-22-21, 12:55 PM
  #36  
jayp410
Full Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Germantown, MD
Posts: 367
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 28 Post(s)
Liked 25 Times in 16 Posts
Originally Posted by jackb
I've been cycling for 45 years and have never had to replace a cable. Keep your bikes dry and properly lubricated to reduce the chances of a broken cable.
I've had two of them break, probably 3000 - 5000 miles between them. I don't ride in the rain, and my bike is in good condition.

The problem (both times) has been metal fatigue inside the DA shifter. It breaks maybe 1 cm from the head of the cable, where the shifter wraps the cable to tighten it.

Where I ride is rolling hills, and I'm just over 200 lbs. During a typical ride, I'm shifting dozens of times... all of that adds up to metal fatigue.

Last edited by jayp410; 07-22-21 at 01:02 PM.
jayp410 is offline  
Old 07-22-21, 01:23 PM
  #37  
jayp410
Full Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Germantown, MD
Posts: 367
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 28 Post(s)
Liked 25 Times in 16 Posts
Originally Posted by GlennR
It should not be a problem, all they need to do is get on of the magnet tools like the Park.

https://www.amazon.com/Park-Tool-Int...25062811&psc=1
I did use a magnet when building the bike, and while it was diffcult due to my chainstays, I got it routed and the magnet was helpful. However, now with the BB and fork installed, it would be difficult without using the old cable as a guide.

The frame came with some little pink transparent sleeves that are just larger than the cable itself, which I installed in the channels of the little plastic guide bracket on the BB. With those in place, there's no way I'm going to be able to install a new cable (even with a magnet tool), unless guiding it through using the old cable. Perhaps without those little sleeves it would have been possible, but I didn't think of that when installing them... only thought about how they would help reduce friction through that area. Will probably have to cut both cables and remove those sleeves the next time I install a cable.

Di2 does sound nice... but then there are batteries.
jayp410 is offline  
Old 07-22-21, 02:15 PM
  #38  
MoAlpha
• —
 
Join Date: Jun 2015
Location: Land of Pleasant Living
Posts: 12,218

Bikes: Shmikes

Mentioned: 59 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 10151 Post(s)
Liked 5,843 Times in 3,147 Posts
Originally Posted by jayp410
I've had two of them break, probably 3000 - 5000 miles between them. I don't ride in the rain, and my bike is in good condition.

The problem (both times) has been metal fatigue inside the DA shifter. It breaks maybe 1 cm from the head of the cable, where the shifter wraps the cable to tighten it.

Where I ride is rolling hills, and I'm just over 200 lbs. During a typical ride, I'm shifting dozens of times... all of that adds up to metal fatigue.
Typical for the bar-routed iterations of DA and Ultegra. The radius of the sheave on the ratchet is too small.

Last edited by MoAlpha; 07-22-21 at 02:46 PM.
MoAlpha is offline  
Old 07-22-21, 02:45 PM
  #39  
Wildwood 
Veteran, Pacifist
 
Wildwood's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Seattle area
Posts: 13,327

Bikes: Bikes??? Thought this was social media?!?

Mentioned: 284 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3897 Post(s)
Liked 4,829 Times in 2,228 Posts
The look of 'no cables/housing' has the best visual impact (IMHO) when the internal routing starts at the handlebars. That totally clean and aero appearance up front also likely has the best practical aero benefit, too. Internally routing the wires on frames with significantly curved tubing improves aesthetics, too.

I never really understood the practice of piercing the top tube twice to hide a rear brake cable for a straight distance of only 50cm.


this thread needs internet pics - as I have nothing this new.



__________________
Vintage, modern, e-road. It is a big cycling universe.

Last edited by Wildwood; 07-22-21 at 02:55 PM.
Wildwood is offline  
Likes For Wildwood:
Old 07-22-21, 04:37 PM
  #40  
Doug64
Senior Member
 
Doug64's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Oregon
Posts: 6,489
Mentioned: 31 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1182 Post(s)
Liked 833 Times in 435 Posts
How does a magnet work on stainless cables?

The amount of years the cable has been on the bike does not really matter; it is the amount of miles ridden in those 45 years. My wife's 10-year old touring bike has 26,000 miles on it and the cables have been changed several times. Also new cable housing. I've broke one shifter cable on my CX bike. It was the only cable that I actually broke in 50 years. I change cable regularly, especially if there is any sign of fraying.
Doug64 is offline  
Old 07-22-21, 04:49 PM
  #41  
WhyFi
Senior Member
 
WhyFi's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: TC, MN
Posts: 39,516

Bikes: R3 Disc, Haanjo

Mentioned: 354 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 20808 Post(s)
Liked 9,450 Times in 4,668 Posts
Originally Posted by Doug64
How does a magnet work on stainless cables?
I use a magnet to pull a ferrous bit o' metal, tied to floss, through the frame. You then tie the floss to the cable and pull it through.
WhyFi is offline  
Likes For WhyFi:
Old 07-22-21, 06:06 PM
  #42  
GlennR
On Your Left
 
GlennR's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Long Island, New York, USA
Posts: 8,373

Bikes: Trek Emonda SLR, Sram eTap, Zipp 303

Mentioned: 34 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3004 Post(s)
Liked 2,433 Times in 1,187 Posts
Originally Posted by jayp410
Di2 does sound nice... but then there are batteries.
Di2 still needs the wires run.

Removing the crank and fork are not difficult and should be greased occasionally. I service the bottom bracket bearings every 1000 miles.
GlennR is offline  
Old 07-22-21, 10:49 PM
  #43  
jayp410
Full Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Germantown, MD
Posts: 367
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 28 Post(s)
Liked 25 Times in 16 Posts
Originally Posted by Doug64
How does a magnet work on stainless cables?.
Depends on the grade. 304 stainless is attracted to magnets, while 316 is not. Shimano cables are attracted to magnets.

[EDIT] From a web search, apparently 304 is non-magnetic as well as 316. However, some other types of stainless are. Shimano cables are, because I used a magnet to draw them through the frame.

Last edited by jayp410; 07-22-21 at 10:53 PM.
jayp410 is offline  
Old 07-23-21, 02:07 AM
  #44  
Lazyass
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Minas Ithil
Posts: 9,173
Mentioned: 66 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2432 Post(s)
Liked 638 Times in 395 Posts
Originally Posted by GlennR
It should not be a problem, all they need to do is get on of the magnet tools like the Park.

https://www.amazon.com/Park-Tool-Int...25062811&psc=1
Eh, you could have told him that instead of asking what the point of the topic was. Not everyone knows these things.
Lazyass is offline  
Old 07-23-21, 02:33 AM
  #45  
Racing Dan
Senior Member
 
Racing Dan's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2015
Posts: 2,231
Mentioned: 9 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1335 Post(s)
Liked 318 Times in 216 Posts
Sure, not every body has a full complement bike tool chest and most have no idea such tools even exist. Its strictly bike-nerd stuff. I have done my own repairs for decades, literally, but I too find internal cabling a faff. Some bikes worse than others. I just converted a drop bar bike from from mech to hydro disc. Man! it took some ingenuity and patience getting both the gear cables and (plastic) brake hoses routed in a frame with no internal guides, tight bends and tiny little holes for the gear cables under the crank. My other bike, with external cabling would have been done in less than 1/2 the time.
Racing Dan is offline  
Old 07-23-21, 05:16 AM
  #46  
GlennR
On Your Left
 
GlennR's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Long Island, New York, USA
Posts: 8,373

Bikes: Trek Emonda SLR, Sram eTap, Zipp 303

Mentioned: 34 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3004 Post(s)
Liked 2,433 Times in 1,187 Posts
Originally Posted by Lazyass
Eh, you could have told him that instead of asking what the point of the topic was. Not everyone knows these things.
Guess I was a Lazyass.
GlennR is offline  
Old 07-24-21, 08:12 AM
  #47  
Kapusta
Advanced Slacker
 
Kapusta's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2017
Posts: 6,210

Bikes: Soma Fog Cutter, Surly Wednesday, Canfielld Tilt

Mentioned: 26 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2761 Post(s)
Liked 2,534 Times in 1,433 Posts
For me, internal routing is extra work and zero benefit. Its not a dealbreaker, but it is definitely something I would prefer not have, and it would go in the “con” column when comparing new bikes/frames.

Since I gravitate towards steel on road/gravel bikes it is easy to avoid, but all of the new MTB frames I am interested in are internal routing.
Kapusta is offline  
Old 07-25-21, 07:12 PM
  #48  
The Chemist
Senior Member
 
The Chemist's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Shanghai, China
Posts: 983

Bikes: Waltly Custom Ti // Seaboard CX01 // Dahon Boardwalk

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 122 Post(s)
Liked 527 Times in 245 Posts
Originally Posted by jayp410
I've had two of them break, probably 3000 - 5000 miles between them. I don't ride in the rain, and my bike is in good condition.

The problem (both times) has been metal fatigue inside the DA shifter. It breaks maybe 1 cm from the head of the cable, where the shifter wraps the cable to tighten it.

Where I ride is rolling hills, and I'm just over 200 lbs. During a typical ride, I'm shifting dozens of times... all of that adds up to metal fatigue.
I've had three in total break on me, at the same place. Twice on a Sora brifter (always the rear) and once on a Deore Rapidfire shifter (also the rear). Probably about the same mean time between failure as you.
The Chemist is offline  
Old 07-25-21, 07:33 PM
  #49  
PeteHski
Senior Member
 
PeteHski's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2021
Posts: 8,381
Mentioned: 12 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4387 Post(s)
Liked 4,828 Times in 2,984 Posts
I can't remember the last time I had a gear cable break. Certainly talking decades ago. Bound to happen next time I ride now though!
PeteHski is offline  
Old 07-25-21, 09:41 PM
  #50  
ShannonM
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2020
Location: Humboldt County, CA
Posts: 832
Mentioned: 7 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 405 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 430 Times in 286 Posts
It's not that cables break all that often, they don't. It's that they stretch, and fray at the pinch bolt, and generally get janky and then they don't work right any more. I've never broken one. I've replaced a bunch, and had good reasons to do so. Every bike was improved thereby.

Even when the old cable isn't broken, you still have to replace them from time to time, and internal cable routing makes this harder and fiddlier, to no benefit other than cosmetic. (If you like the look. Many do, many don't.)

--Shannon
ShannonM is offline  


Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service -

Copyright © 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.