pbass

A bit of a mechanical noob, so a little unsure about this stuff--my ss is my bike to learn on: I just got a new chainring (https://www.jensonusa.com/Wolf-Tooth...oad-Chainrings) for my SS Cross Check and thought why not get a fresh chain as well. The old chain is a KMC X8, which when I look for one, for example: https://www.jensonusa.com/KMC-X893-Chain says it's a multi-speed chain, while I see on the KMC site they also make singlespeed specific chains. And my existing X8 looks a little different than that one on Jenson (though maybe because it's older--see pic). Is that KMX X8.93 a proper replacement for what I've got?

Moles

The biggest issue you may come up against is whether you're mixing 1/8" stuff and 3/32" ...
EDIT: Looking at what you've linked to I don't think you are.

Rolla

A lot of SS-specific chains are 1/8", which will fit on any width chainring and cog. They're robust and work fine. But if you have a 3/32" chainring and cog, I'd run an 8-speed chain, as I find them to be quieter. Might be my imagination, however. Also, if your chainring is narrow-wide, it's engineered for a multi-speed chain and will work best with one.

pbass

Cool, thanks.

ofajen

Just my two cents. I’ve had great service from KMC X8 series chains.

Otto

Zdawg

I'd recommend going with the 1/8" chain either way because it lasts longer, the weight difference isn't that noticeable, it's more hard-wearing and you avoid running the risk of trying to fit a 3/32" chain on 1/8" components, which would end up not fitting.

Zdawg

Wouldn't the narrow-wide chainring accept an 1/8" chain the same way? Since the wide teeth are made for the wider gaps on multispeed chains they would end up being roughly the same, no?

Rolla

Yes, a NW chainring will accept a 1/8" chain. I don't think it would be as effective at preventing chain drop, however; for that, you want the tighter fit that a 3/32" chain offers.

TejanoTrackie 

Chain drop is really only an issue with multi-speed 1 x n applications, where n > 1. I've got an old MTB that I converted to a 1 x 7 with no front derailleur to act as a chain-keeper, and the chain was constantly dropping off the 3/32 chainring. When I replaced it with a N/W chainring the problem was solved and it ran a lot smoother as well. OTOH, I have several SSFG bikes with a 3/32 chainring and a 1/8 chain, and I've never had the chain drop on any of them. Yes, a 3/32 is a bit quieter on a 3/32 chainring, but it's not a serious problem.

79pmooney

Just a simple opinion here, not trying to get the OP to go out and spend a lot of money - for single speed/fix gear use, 1/8" chains running on 1/8" cogs is the best option because the 1/8" chains are stiffer side-to-side and seat securely on 1/8" cogs, leading to fewer chain throws (especially downhill on fix gears). Along those lines, cogs made with very square teeth and little rounding or prettying up throw chains less. (They are also noisy.) I ride the EurAsian Imports 1/8" cogs exclusively (except my largest that EAI doesn't make) because of that. A Surly 17 tooth that is beautiful and quiet scares me. I flat out refuse to use it on any of my fix gears except the best with its high end (and very round) velodrome crankset. Scares me downhill. If you go to the velodrome, you will see the EUI cogs on a lot of bikes. I ride the cheap Izumi 1//8" "Eco" chaiuns also for same reason. No rounding of plate edges, secure (and not silent). Also common at the velodrome. (The quiet KMC 1/8" chains scare me just like that Surey cog.)

Having drive trains more resistant to throwing off means more tolerance of poorly set chain slack (real world; flats, fatigue, darkness, rain and snow ...) and allows satisfactory use of cheaper, less round cranksets and chain rings. Observations of roughly 100,000 miles each of 3/32" and 1/8" SS/FG use. Once I switched to 1/8", I was sold and will never go back.

Rolla

I have dropped the chain a couple of times on a non-NW singlespeed, but never when using a NW. I think it was probably a chain tension issue rather than the chainring, but NW and a 3/32" chain gives me peace of mind, even if the benefit is imaginary.

Road Fan

Does poor chainline affect chain drop? Seems like if the chain doesn't track perfectly from chainring to sprocket, it could climb up a misaligned tooth and ... hence off the ring!

Rolla

Proper chain tension and a narrow-wide chainring are good insurance against chain drop. You want to have a straight chainline anyway, but "perfect" isn't necessary.