jimbaddabim

Stripping paint....

off the Schwinn Peloton...It was bad, otherwise I would have kept the "patina."

merziac

Did you try a couple hose clamps around the arms to hold them in place?

You can also grind the hooks to dig in and bite better.

jamesdak 

I finally got the tool to feed that let me clean up the threads on the crank arms so I could fit on the puller.

I put two metal straps behind the crank normally to hold a puller on. This time nothing was lining up but I'll remember your tip for sure. Thanks!

merziac

You're welcome, anytime.

I know how frustrating it can be to not have things go the way we normally get them done. As a flat rate mechanic you can really take a beating when things go south, the book and most shops don't care if you don't have the time, tool, skill or whatever, you're on the clock and the hook no matter what it takes and it comes out of your hide.

I did ok for 20 years but many other guys were faster and more butcher so they made a lot more money than I did working on Fords.

The race track drag racing motorcycles was another whole different trial by fire when things go wrong, you better be able to improvise and fix it quick or you're done for the day, weekend, whatever. Came up with some good quick fixes in 40 years of that.

Lots of workarounds and patches come out of panic situations, the key is to make them stick and win the next round.

BFisher

Fresh new headset top race for the Colnago today. The old one looked like this:



Took a shot of the different stamping styles between the two:


All better now!

Prowler 

For many of us on the east coast its too cold to ride and too much snow and ice out there. So I've been working on the wheels off a terribly neglected Miyata. Nice parts though so the wheels are worth saving. Loosened every spoke on both of em, removed the nipples (one at a time), cleaned them and the spoke threads and but them back together. Ran each nipple up to the edge of the threads as a starting point then started tensioning them a bit at time - three full turns each all the way around. Check for and adjust for any runout true and hop. Don't go crazy, just coarse adjustments which makes life easier later. Got both wheels pretty good so called it a day. Fine tuning and truing next time. Nice in the shop when I started but 35degF when I finished.

Say, for your real mechanics: If you tension wheels in stages, even over a few days, when do you apply and thread lock sorta of goop? I'm going to use Boiled Linseed Oil and plan to apply a drop to each spoke as I start the final round of tensioning and truing. Did not want to apply days ahead. What do youse all do?



My one of a kind truing stand, horizontal arms that use the ShopSmith as a base. VERY precise and I can measure in mils if I want. Everything in my shop has to be easy to put away as I have such a variety of projects. The ShopSmith and the vice often serve as the solid base for other tools, jigs and 'whatchacallits'. Now to change cloths and go back out for some cardio on the rollers. Inspired to ride like a banshee as its so cold out there.

trucklet

I got some aluminum 1" spacers to finish up a 1996 steel GT Edge for the local co-op. Unfortunately it's not my size or I would buy it myself. The frame history is kewl and the Campy Chorus group is pretty neat.

I'm also falling in love with late 80s Schwinns. I picked up a red 1986 Le Tour that I'll be going through and riding this summer. The paint's really nice and it has a Sachs-Huret Rival group, another new one to me. I'll probably keep that one stock, debating non-aero or aero levers.

hankamania

When I've used Linseed Oil, I dip the spoke before lacing it. Linseed oil doesn't really harden the way other threadlockers do.

OTS 

My winter project getting a 1951/52 Sun Manxman F/F back on the road.
I will post a build thread, my first so...
Anyway, this frame is no stranger to the forums, it has just been awhile.

noglider 

As always, I like your tools and your approaches.

Some bike wheel builders do use boiled linseed oil. There's a facebook group called Bicycle Wheelbuilders Group, and some discuss that. I think some use blue Loctite, too. I use oil or grease because they help me get tension tight with minimal friction. The thinking is that if it's sufficiently tight, it won't tend to unwind. There's room for various opinions on this topic.

daverup 

I'm still working on the Raleigh GP Mixte,

Prowler 

Thanks to hankamania and noglider for the input on spoke goop. Another friend, experienced wheel builder, agreed. Poor ole me, I’ll back off all the nipples and apply the BLO then run them back up. As to lubricating the spoke threads, the BLO does that for quite some time before it dries and binds the interface. It will be months before these wheels go outside.

Note: another reason I only do extensive wheel work in the winter. Plenty of time indoors and little time out actually riding. So no incentive to cut corners on a build. Do it right the first time or do it over. As long as the wood stove is well fed there’s no valid excuses.

Chuck M 

Snow day today so I decided to overhaul the Esquartz pedals I recently bought. The Cro-Mo spindle is so shiny, I considered polishing the aluminum bits. But some nicks, scratches and oxidation don't hurt a rider..

noobinsf 

Very nice. I have a pair that came originally on my Competizione, and this makes me want to clean them up and put them back on.

Prowler 

I may finally be one of the cool kids now as I have a more proper bike work stand, well sort of. I came across this old (likely 15 to 20 years old) work stand clamp head. Orphaned as there was no work stand in sight. I pondered it awhile wondering if I could craft a solid holder for this thing in my shop. Of course it has to be easy to put away after its occasional uses. So, it was very interesting deciding what design to use for this and how to effectively and safely create it (anyone else know about fly cutters? Effective, precise and SCARY tool). The clamp head itself was dirty and scratched up (patina) but functionally in fine shape. The rubber on the jaws was shot but that's what old inner tubes are for, eh?



I'm pleased with how it came out. Besides from putting a bike or two into this I tested it with a 4 foot wrecking bar, clamped at one end and the rest held out over the floor. Nice and secure. This will be a nice supplement to the loop of rope hooked to the ceiling in my shop. Thats fine for many quick adjustments and checks but this will be nice as its solid.

Ah, yeah, I varnished it too. Its been raining for two days so I had the time.

jamesdak 

Well for one, I decided to finally deal with the totally dull Trek 5200 frame I had picked up last year. So I wiped it down then went over the full frame with some rubbing compound. Followed that up with some polishing compound, Mequiars Glaze, Carnauba Wax and then spray Mequiars finishing wax. That restored a deep, rich shine to the old girl.


Before I worked the frame

Hard to tell from these cellphone pics but there is a huge improvement.

And I'm still slowly hacking away at the KHS.


Dura Ace 7400 series parts slapped on,

adamwaltke

Cool thread to subscribe to

BFisher

The Colnago received a new old freewheel - a zero mileage Sachs 13-21 - and a brand new Sram chain, along with a BB clean and repack, and a 52 big ring in place of the pantoed, but more worn, 53.


Also been working on this one. The white Suntour/Sakae/Dia-Compe set looks good on it. The hub cones are pitted, and I replaced the rear spoke nipples, as many were cracked or boogered up. They'll do until I either find cones that match or snag something nicer. Have a pair of Vittoria Corsa G2.0 coming for it, and am eager to try them out.

Chuck M 

I haven't decided if I want to call this a Western Flyer badged Hercules or a Hercules built Western Flyer. But I planned on tearing it down tonight. Once I got a good look at how the flea market I pulled it out of scrubbed the hell out of the paint, I decided to break the seal on a bottle of Elijah Craig small batch and watch Perry Mason instead. While I still think the forks are bent, the silver lining is the pedals came off like they were installed yesterday.

bamboobike4

1. Rossin Laser Aero. The elder Van der Poel (and his team) rode them in the early 80’s TdF prologue. Somewhat uncooperative frame. Piggyback shifters, 600AX calipers, but an upgrade to modernish…

2. A mixte, also uncooperative but getting there.

3. A Terry 700/520 roadie. Everything starts at the front wheel.

4. Cinelli stepson, 3x9 Racing T(o) a nervous breakdown. Shout out to David Lyndley and El Rayo X….

5. 2012? Cannondale SuperSix “electronic only” Di2 Ultegra 2x10 mongrel. I have it at 15.45 lbs, but am certain I can get it sub-15 if I go cabled and SRAM Red. The frame has no accommodations for cable shifting, but I bought some oval and round grommets and may give it a try. I own a drill and ignorance is bliss.

Moving the Di2 to a classic frame will require consults with RiddleOfSteel.

Dylansbob 

Not vintage, but my theft-recovery minivelo has become a for testing paint. I had bought it years ago at Nashbar for pennies and promptly had it stolen a few weeks after getting it. When I got it back ~12 days later, it was pretty trashed. Lots of bad scratches, a dent, and the usual mangled parts.
Testing Montana Gold low pressure acrylic. Wow, pretty forgiving. After 3-4 coats, the under-the-clearcoat decals are almost hidden as well as most of my lazy prep work. I'm going to do a lazy Squid-style mask job and throw down another color in a day or two.

Chuck M 

Please keep us updated. I looked at your picture thinking this was something you did with a sprayer and didn't realize it was in a can until I googled it. I have a couple of bikes that aren't going to be worth the cost of professional painting but I want the best I can get out of a can.

Mr. 66

A couple of years ago I bought a cute French bike, I went to align the rear triangle and discovered it was the front triangle that was out. So I stripped the frame down, the wheels went to another build and that was it. The frame has hung around ever since.

I've been wondering since, how do I isolate, secure on a manner that won't cause more damage. That wild hair kept growing, how? I'm looking at C-clamps, J-clamps, even a larger furniture clamp, various vises. Not one of those were tickling the fancy. Then I glance over at weightlifting set, I have twist end locks.

I pulled my barbell and grabbed the locks of a dumbbell and bingo! I had the bb vised on the bar securely. I first went to align the seatube, I did this with another bar inserted in the tube and pushed or pulled until I had an even measure parallel to the drive side bb face. I used my metal lever clamped the bb for reference.

I probably could have used the 2x4 but I felt better with the bar inserted. That went easy peasy.

Here is a shot of the the downtube with my level.


I rotated the frame within my jig to address the downtube, and used the 2x4 for manipulation.

and the results.

No wonder the string test gave me a headache. The frame still need a twist to get the head, for that I the headtube on the barbell and loose bar went in seatube and a yank on the brought that inline.

After that the the rear end was a breeze.



Now that was a fun afternoon!

merziac

Brilliant!

Dylansbob 

Chuck M It's a hair chilly (48F) and the recommendations are to wait until it warms up a couple more degrees, so of course I've started with the second coat. (I know I should have had a bucket of warm water for the can...) After a few seconds, the spray evened out and went on fine. As you can see, I wrapped a mixture of twine, satin jewelry cording, and 21g badminton string to create some stripes. With the frame shape I was expecting to get some runs, but so far only one that I've noticed. I'll upwrap it tonight after I've put ~.5-.75 of the can on.