Would these work as a Handlebar Fix?
#1
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Would these work as a Handlebar Fix?
Ok so I just finished 23 mile ride with this Nashbar single-speed. It was a great ride and I had no problem with the hills so I think I'm going to keep this bike...no need for the Wabi.
Id like to change the handlebars though for the following reasons.
1) The drops are useless as they are now. The bike came with interruptor brakes only. No idea why except fashion. Plus the drops have a very sharp curve, you'd have to have Barbie doll hands to feel comfortable riding in the drops. Plus I'm bent too far forward and over to use them...plus..no brakes.in the drops.
2). Even after only 23 miles my fingers were going a little numb. I can't remember which ones but I suspect I'm putting too much weight on the flat bars whilst extending my wrists.
So I'd like to fix these problems without getting a different bike. Limitations are the following:
1) I'm currently out of work and don't want to spend more than $50 or so to fix the problem. I want to continue riding though as therapy and to keep me from becoming a hermit. Being outside and riding with folks is good for me physically, mentally and spiritually.
2) I like the fact that my bike fits in the trunk of my Corolla without having to take the wheel off. That's huge because the front wheel is not quick release. This is actually a good thing in the homeless-ville city I live in where bikes and wheels get stolen a lot.
Id like to change the handlebars though for the following reasons.
1) The drops are useless as they are now. The bike came with interruptor brakes only. No idea why except fashion. Plus the drops have a very sharp curve, you'd have to have Barbie doll hands to feel comfortable riding in the drops. Plus I'm bent too far forward and over to use them...plus..no brakes.in the drops.
2). Even after only 23 miles my fingers were going a little numb. I can't remember which ones but I suspect I'm putting too much weight on the flat bars whilst extending my wrists.
So I'd like to fix these problems without getting a different bike. Limitations are the following:
1) I'm currently out of work and don't want to spend more than $50 or so to fix the problem. I want to continue riding though as therapy and to keep me from becoming a hermit. Being outside and riding with folks is good for me physically, mentally and spiritually.
2) I like the fact that my bike fits in the trunk of my Corolla without having to take the wheel off. That's huge because the front wheel is not quick release. This is actually a good thing in the homeless-ville city I live in where bikes and wheels get stolen a lot.
#2
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Can anyone tell me if these handlebars would work?
I know it's hard to say for sure without measurements but if there's even a chance, the top bars there might work. Could I use interruptor brakes or would I have to buy new brake levers?
My other options are to either buy new brake levers for the existing drops. Or I can buy a new spacer online...leaning toward that option.
I know it's hard to say for sure without measurements but if there's even a chance, the top bars there might work. Could I use interruptor brakes or would I have to buy new brake levers?
My other options are to either buy new brake levers for the existing drops. Or I can buy a new spacer online...leaning toward that option.
#3
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2010
Posts: 3,504
Mentioned: 9 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 586 Post(s)
Liked 612 Times
in
447 Posts
Offer $4.00 for just the bar you want and see what happens. Remember, the stem also contributes to proper bike fitment. Changing bars sometimes results in the need to change the stem, either the length or the rise or both.
#4
Dont fix whats not broken
Join Date: Sep 2019
Location: Mooresville, NC
Posts: 302
Bikes: Steelman Stage Race, Dura-Ace 9s
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 95 Post(s)
Liked 166 Times
in
93 Posts
Also verify the bar diameter in the clamp area. Make sure it matches the stem you have already. Smaller bar, you can get shims to make it larger, but if it's too big you'll need a new stem. If your current bike has a drop bar good chance it's 26.0/31.8 mm clamp.
#5
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2019
Posts: 1,606
Mentioned: 8 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 581 Post(s)
Liked 921 Times
in
518 Posts
Excessive pressure on the hands is often caused by saddle adjustment. Specifically, if your saddle is pointed nose-down at all, your body weight will tend to want to slide forward and your hands wind up carrying more than their share of the load. Try fiddling with saddle adjustment before you change any parts.
#7
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2010
Posts: 3,504
Mentioned: 9 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 586 Post(s)
Liked 612 Times
in
447 Posts
Excessive pressure on the hands is often caused by saddle adjustment. Specifically, if your saddle is pointed nose-down at all, your body weight will tend to want to slide forward and your hands wind up carrying more than their share of the load. Try fiddling with saddle adjustment before you change any parts.
#8
Super-duper Genius
Join Date: Aug 2016
Location: Muskrat Springs, Utah
Posts: 1,713
Mentioned: 20 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 768 Post(s)
Liked 984 Times
in
508 Posts
Do you want to stick with drop bars and just need yours dialed in to get more comfortable? I suspect your solution might lie in fitting some proper road bike brake levers. You can grip the hoods for 90% of your riding, and just go down to the drops for fast descents or to the tops for an occasional change of position. Not sure if this would really help, but it might be worth a try. I find the brake hoods are the most comfortable place to grip on my road bike.
I have some lightly used Cane Creek levers I can send you, my treat. Let me know if you want to try them. (You'll likely have to replace the cables to make them work, and will certainly have to unwrap and then re-wrap the bar.)
I have some lightly used Cane Creek levers I can send you, my treat. Let me know if you want to try them. (You'll likely have to replace the cables to make them work, and will certainly have to unwrap and then re-wrap the bar.)
Likes For Broctoon:
#9
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2019
Posts: 1,606
Mentioned: 8 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 581 Post(s)
Liked 921 Times
in
518 Posts
Yes, the way it was explained to me is you ideally want 25% of your bodyweight on your saddle, 25% on the bars and the remaining 50% is supported by your feet on the pedals. Even if that isn't quite correct, the idea sounds right and too much weight forward will certainly result in numb hands. Makes you wonder how many folks continue to try saddles with little success when it isn't the saddle itself, but their body positioning. Same goes for bars.
#10
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2010
Posts: 3,504
Mentioned: 9 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 586 Post(s)
Liked 612 Times
in
447 Posts
I am suspicious of any 'rule' that gives specific numbers for bike fitting as they invariably ignore that every individual person has different flexibility and strength. The proof is in the comfort - if the rider is comfortable and able to accomplish their distance and speed goals without pain or numbness, then the bike fits. For the guideline you stated, a 200lb person would have 50lbs of load on their hands, which is excessive. There may be a range of acceptable fraction of body weight that can or should be carried by the hands on the bars, but 25% seems like a lot.
#11
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Do you want to stick with drop bars and just need yours dialed in to get more comfortable? I suspect your solution might lie in fitting some proper road bike brake levers. You can grip the hoods for 90% of your riding, and just go down to the drops for fast descents or to the tops for an occasional change of position. Not sure if this would really help, but it might be worth a try. I find the brake hoods are the most comfortable place to grip on my road bike.
I have some lightly used Cane Creek levers I can send you, my treat. Let me know if you want to try them. (You'll likely have to replace the cables to make them work, and will certainly have to unwrap and then re-wrap the bar.)
I have some lightly used Cane Creek levers I can send you, my treat. Let me know if you want to try them. (You'll likely have to replace the cables to make them work, and will certainly have to unwrap and then re-wrap the bar.)
Likes For jasoninohio:
#13
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2019
Posts: 1,606
Mentioned: 8 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 581 Post(s)
Liked 921 Times
in
518 Posts
#14
Junior Member
Ok so I just finished 23 mile ride with this Nashbar single-speed. It was a great ride and I had no problem with the hills so I think I'm going to keep this bike...no need for the Wabi.
Id like to change the handlebars though for the following reasons.
1) The drops are useless as they are now. The bike came with interruptor brakes only. No idea why except fashion. Plus the drops have a very sharp curve, you'd have to have Barbie doll hands to feel comfortable riding in the drops. Plus I'm bent too far forward and over to use them...plus..no brakes.in the drops.
2). Even after only 23 miles my fingers were going a little numb. I can't remember which ones but I suspect I'm putting too much weight on the flat bars whilst extending my wrists.
Id like to change the handlebars though for the following reasons.
1) The drops are useless as they are now. The bike came with interruptor brakes only. No idea why except fashion. Plus the drops have a very sharp curve, you'd have to have Barbie doll hands to feel comfortable riding in the drops. Plus I'm bent too far forward and over to use them...plus..no brakes.in the drops.
2). Even after only 23 miles my fingers were going a little numb. I can't remember which ones but I suspect I'm putting too much weight on the flat bars whilst extending my wrists.
1) Re the sharp curve in the drops, this is somewhat hard to imagine. Do you have a picture of the bars in question (or the whole bike)? Drops are typically held near the bar ends when riding straight armed (or close to) and in the deepest (forwardmost) part of the curve when arms are bent at close to a right angle (typically in fast descents). In the first position, the section you hold typically has minimal curvature. In the second position, less of the palm is typically in contact with the bar, so tight curvature wouldn't usually be a problem. I have big hands, and although I've ridden drop shapes I've liked more or less, hand size has never been an impediment.
The drops are inherently safest for descents since your hands can't slip forward if you go over a bump, but you need access to the brakes! I second Broctoon's suggestion to try to get hold of some road brake levers. If you do, I'm sure you'll find yourself using the hoods most of the time---I for one find drop bars without them pretty uncomfortable. I have the TRP RRL, and they are well made and comfortable with good modulation of braking. A second hand pair should be fine---they should last for a long time, and replacement hoods are cheap. Older style aero brake levers tend to produce a dip where they contact the bars since they sclamp at a right angle---this for me is much less comfortable than the flatter line created by more modern levers , but opinions vary. In general, having hoods gives you yet another position to use, and moving your hands around frequently is good practice.
2) There are many potential causes of this. The easiest to take a look at is how you are positioning your hands. You should have most of the weight on the fleshy outer part of your palm and very little on the part above the middle of your wrist, where the ulnar nerve runs. This may require ulnar deviation (fancy word for rotating your hand outwards), but you shouldn't be getting numb fingers, no matter how long the ride.
Next, check that your saddle isn't pointing too far downwards. Start by having the rails flat and go from there. If that takes all of the weight off your hands but also takes it off your sit bones (and moves it forward!!), tilt the saddle very slightly forward. If you have a single bolt seatpost with a serrated clamp, the increments after often fairly large, unfortunately, so just find the setting that works best. Next, the saddle may be too far forward. Getting bike fit right is a huge topic (and if you want to supplement experimentation with reading, someone like Steve Hogg has intelligent things to say), but if you start from your feet, then position your hips (via setting the saddle height to get a knee bend you're comfortable with and fore-aft so that your knees aren't shooting over the pedals but also not reaching forward), then position your hands by moving the bars (fore-aft by adjusting stem length and up and down by playing with spacers and/or stem rise) you should be able to work something out yourself. If you feel bent over in the drops, the bars could be too low, or the stem too long/saddle too far back (both of which will close your hip angle, making you feel bent over).
Good luck!
#15
Junior Member
Join Date: Nov 2021
Posts: 11
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 9 Times
in
3 Posts
Like people have said it could be your seat but you could even try to flip the bars over and cut them into homemade bullhorns. I love a bull bar and you may too, worth talking to your lbs for fitment tips they may be able to just look at you on the bike and see what is going on then you can make the adjustments yourself.
#16
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2018
Location: Thornhill, Canada
Posts: 754
Bikes: United Motocross BMX, Specialized Langster, Giant OCR, Marin Muirwoods, Globe Roll2, VROD:)
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 238 Post(s)
Liked 405 Times
in
246 Posts
I swapped out my drops for bullhorns/TT levers.
The bike is more comfortable now so gets ridden more......
The bike is more comfortable now so gets ridden more......