Waterslide decals and bare metal?
#1
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2018
Location: Eugene, OR
Posts: 1,326
Mentioned: 64 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 535 Post(s)
Liked 346 Times
in
196 Posts
Waterslide decals and bare metal?
Thinking of putting one lone decal on a bare metal frame. The area where the decal would be applied would be very clean and smooth. I’d probably give the decal a clear coat protective finish that just exceeds the decals edges, giving a good seal all around.
Has anyone reading this ever applied water slide decals to bare metal? Did it take well or not?
Has anyone reading this ever applied water slide decals to bare metal? Did it take well or not?
#2
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: City of Angels
Posts: 4,870
Bikes: A few too many
Mentioned: 42 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1364 Post(s)
Liked 2,178 Times
in
1,182 Posts
I would clear the entire frame in order to prevent rusting....clearing just the area where the decal is placed will highlight that spot when the rest of the frame continues to oxidize.
WS will stick on bare metal because of adhesive, applying water to bare metal will help to promote rust underneath the decal even after a finish is applied, so.....
JM2C's, Ben
WS will stick on bare metal because of adhesive, applying water to bare metal will help to promote rust underneath the decal even after a finish is applied, so.....
JM2C's, Ben
#3
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2018
Location: Eugene, OR
Posts: 1,326
Mentioned: 64 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 535 Post(s)
Liked 346 Times
in
196 Posts
I would clear the entire frame in order to prevent rusting....clearing just the area where the decal is placed will highlight that spot when the rest of the frame continues to oxidize.
WS will stick on bare metal because of adhesive, applying water to bare metal will help to promote rust underneath the decal even after a finish is applied, so.....
JM2C's, Ben
WS will stick on bare metal because of adhesive, applying water to bare metal will help to promote rust underneath the decal even after a finish is applied, so.....
JM2C's, Ben
The clear coat over the decal, like nail polish perhaps, will just cover decal just barely beyond its edges to provide a seal. But you raise a good point about corrosion forming in the area from applying the decal.
#4
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: City of Angels
Posts: 4,870
Bikes: A few too many
Mentioned: 42 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1364 Post(s)
Liked 2,178 Times
in
1,182 Posts
Seems most clear coats aside from powder coating, fail on bare steel. I plan to paint the frame eventually, but not until next year at least. Until then, I plan to ride the bike. So I’ll be giving the frame an initial liberal wipe down of WD-40, and then as needed. It’d be a lot easier to clean WD off come time for paint than to strip a clear coat.
The clear coat over the decal, like nail polish perhaps, will just cover decal just barely beyond its edges to provide a seal. But you raise a good point about corrosion forming in the area from applying the decal.
The clear coat over the decal, like nail polish perhaps, will just cover decal just barely beyond its edges to provide a seal. But you raise a good point about corrosion forming in the area from applying the decal.
If that is your plan, I would apply the decal and not worry about it...in my opinion, any corrosion that would occur from the application of the decal would be minimal and not damage the frames structural integrity in any way....short way is to say "just do it and don't worry".
Ben
Last edited by xiaoman1; 07-03-20 at 11:24 AM.
Likes For xiaoman1:
#5
Senior Member
deux jambes
If it’s going to be a throw away decal after the year, why not use a thin vinyl one and avoid the water use. The backer glue should help seal out moisture for that long.
If it’s going to be a throw away decal after the year, why not use a thin vinyl one and avoid the water use. The backer glue should help seal out moisture for that long.
Likes For 3speedslow:
#6
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2018
Location: Eugene, OR
Posts: 1,326
Mentioned: 64 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 535 Post(s)
Liked 346 Times
in
196 Posts
DJ,
If that is your plan I would apply the decal and not worry about it...in my opinion, any corrosion that would occur from the application of the decal would be minimal and not damge the frame structural integrity in any way....short way is to say "just do it and don't worry".
Be
If that is your plan I would apply the decal and not worry about it...in my opinion, any corrosion that would occur from the application of the decal would be minimal and not damge the frame structural integrity in any way....short way is to say "just do it and don't worry".
Be
The whole thing is silly really. It’s just for fun, and to lend the appearance of a “finished” build, until the build is actually finished 😂
Thanks for the input.
#7
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2018
Location: Eugene, OR
Posts: 1,326
Mentioned: 64 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 535 Post(s)
Liked 346 Times
in
196 Posts
deux jambes
If it’s going to be a throw away decal after the year, why not use a thin vinyl one and avoid the water use. The backer glue should help seal out moisture for that long.
If it’s going to be a throw away decal after the year, why not use a thin vinyl one and avoid the water use. The backer glue should help seal out moisture for that long.
#8
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Thunder Bay, Ontario, Canada - burrrrr!
Posts: 11,674
Bikes: 1958 Rabeneick 120D, 1968 Legnano Gran Premio, 196? Torpado Professional, 2000 Marinoni Piuma
Mentioned: 210 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1372 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1,749 Times
in
937 Posts
I would clear coat the entire frame before applying water slide or vinyl stickers. Both will stick to clean bare metal, in my opinion. That said, I am in the middle of doing just this right now (well, actually, I painted the frame last summer and need to get my butt in gear to do the art, which I do have ready to apply).
After primer under the color coats, I clear coated everything in preparation for art application (water slide decals)...
Once the art is applied, more clear coat lacquer then a careful rubbing out and that should be that. Then, finally, a day of assembly before the ride.
After primer under the color coats, I clear coated everything in preparation for art application (water slide decals)...
Once the art is applied, more clear coat lacquer then a careful rubbing out and that should be that. Then, finally, a day of assembly before the ride.
__________________
"98% of the bikes I buy are projects".
"98% of the bikes I buy are projects".
#9
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2014
Location: Central Virginia
Posts: 4,777
Bikes: Numerous
Mentioned: 150 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1676 Post(s)
Liked 3,084 Times
in
911 Posts
I used water slide decals to rehab a Campy C Record era crank. That was about 3-4 years ago and it has held up well under occasional use. I brushed a small amount of decal sealant on top of it.
__________________
N = '96 Colnago C40, '04 Wilier Alpe D'Huez, '10 Colnago EPS, '85 Merckx Pro, '89 Merckx Century, '86 Tommasini Professional, '04 Teschner Aero FX Pro, '05 Alan Carbon Cross, '86 De Rosa Professional, '82 Colnago Super, '95 Gios Compact Pro, '95 Carrera Zeus, '84 Basso Gap, ‘89 Cinelli Supercorsa, ‘83 Bianchi Specialissima, ‘VO Randonneur, Ritchey Breakaway Steel, '84 Paletti Super Prestige, Heron Randonneur
N = '96 Colnago C40, '04 Wilier Alpe D'Huez, '10 Colnago EPS, '85 Merckx Pro, '89 Merckx Century, '86 Tommasini Professional, '04 Teschner Aero FX Pro, '05 Alan Carbon Cross, '86 De Rosa Professional, '82 Colnago Super, '95 Gios Compact Pro, '95 Carrera Zeus, '84 Basso Gap, ‘89 Cinelli Supercorsa, ‘83 Bianchi Specialissima, ‘VO Randonneur, Ritchey Breakaway Steel, '84 Paletti Super Prestige, Heron Randonneur
Last edited by Spaghetti Legs; 07-03-20 at 12:40 PM.