Moisture's 1986 Olympic Tri-a
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To be fair the bikes have gotten nicer. A few more tries and we may have a keeper. Not much progress regarding fit, don't know why it has to be so difficult.
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I dont see anything in that link mentioning anything about inseam length and how it correlates with crank arm length.
So you're telling me that Leonard Zinn's method of calculating crank arm length (between 2.1 and 2.18 x inseam in CM) is nonsense? based on what? I'm sure that the guy I spoke to over at Zinncycles before ordering the crankset should know a thing or two about the products they sell which cater specifically to taller riders.
So you're telling me that Leonard Zinn's method of calculating crank arm length (between 2.1 and 2.18 x inseam in CM) is nonsense? based on what? I'm sure that the guy I spoke to over at Zinncycles before ordering the crankset should know a thing or two about the products they sell which cater specifically to taller riders.
As for Zinn specifically, I dont need a 200mm crank arm. I just dont. I have no need or interest in one, and that is on the low end of what you say the Zinn method shows I should have so I for sure dont want one thats even longer yet still in the range of the Zinn recommendation.
I have 170mm cranks, 172.5mm cranks, 175mm cranks, and even a 180mm crank. The 180mm is on my least used drop bar bike and I used it since I had it and wanted to see if I liked it. Ends up I cant really tell at best and mildly dislike it at worst. Tough to say what is real and what is imagined due to knowing Im riding something different.
Ive ridden thousands of miles each year with 170mm, 172.5mm, and 175mm crank arms on my bikes due to simply not feeling like paying for crank arms that are all the same length. 0 negative effect on my body or riding in spite of apparently using crank arms that are 3cm shorter than Zinn recommends.
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I dont see anything in that link mentioning anything about inseam length and how it correlates with crank arm length.
So you're telling me that Leonard Zinn's method of calculating crank arm length (between 2.1 and 2.18 x inseam in CM) is nonsense? based on what? I'm sure that the guy I spoke to over at Zinncycles before ordering the crankset should know a thing or two about the products they sell which cater specifically to taller riders.
So you're telling me that Leonard Zinn's method of calculating crank arm length (between 2.1 and 2.18 x inseam in CM) is nonsense? based on what? I'm sure that the guy I spoke to over at Zinncycles before ordering the crankset should know a thing or two about the products they sell which cater specifically to taller riders.
As has been mentioned, there are lots of different ways to determine crank arm length, and your inseam length is not way out of the range of usual. When considering options, I tend to look at what the best in the world are doing, how they are doing it, and what they use. I would bet a medium sum of money that zero riders in the World Tour are using 190mm cranks. Not even the tall guys.
Your stubborn refusal to accept any information that doesn't justify your own conclusions is likely going to cause you more problems in your progress as a cyclist. Good luck with that, drippy.
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Last edited by Eric F; 03-10-21 at 04:39 PM.
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Here's some info for you...https://www.trainingpeaks.com/blog/t...-crank-length/
I've come to the realization today that all of this is an attempt to justify your poor buying decisions as somehow being superior. You're lost, dude.
I've come to the realization today that all of this is an attempt to justify your poor buying decisions as somehow being superior. You're lost, dude.
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My road bike has 170, my MTB 175 and my hybrid 165 (because I built it from used parts and that's what I had at the moment). I must be very insensitive, because I can't feel any differences.
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Looks as if Moisty has a bike fit soul mate. https://www.bikeforums.net/classic-v...l#post21962159
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Looks as if Moisty has a bike fit soul mate. https://www.bikeforums.net/classic-v...l#post21962159
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I can feel a difference between the 170s on my '77 Nishiki and the 172.5s on my other road bikes when I first get on it, but that feeling of it being different doesn't last very long. I've always been pretty sensitive to small positional changes on my bikes, and getting a new bike sorted out to feel "right" can take a while. That's just me.
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So, because the article doesn't have one specific piece of information you want, you're going to ignore the whole thing? Oy.
As has been mentioned, there are lots of different ways to determine crank arm length, and your inseam length is not way out of the range of usual. When considering options, I tend to look at what the best in the world are doing, how they are doing it, and what they use. I would bet a medium sum of money that zero riders in the World Tour are using 190mm cranks. Not even the tall guys.
Your stubborn refusal to accept any information that doesn't justify your own conclusions is likely going to cause you more problems in your progress as a cyclist. Good luck with that, drippy.
As has been mentioned, there are lots of different ways to determine crank arm length, and your inseam length is not way out of the range of usual. When considering options, I tend to look at what the best in the world are doing, how they are doing it, and what they use. I would bet a medium sum of money that zero riders in the World Tour are using 190mm cranks. Not even the tall guys.
Your stubborn refusal to accept any information that doesn't justify your own conclusions is likely going to cause you more problems in your progress as a cyclist. Good luck with that, drippy.
mstateglfr
On a regular bottom bracket height, I really wouldn't want anything past 190mm at the very max for pedal strike clearance anyways. But you can't knock it until you try it! I guarantee you'd be extremely happy with correctly proportioned crank arm lengths.
At the very least, I wouldn't be conclusive until you give it a fair try. It undoubtedly the best decision I ever made within the world of cycling and I would not hesitate to do it again.
I've gathered that with my current crank arms, there are zero penalties in over exaggerated range of motion which may compromise an efficient pedalling cadence. If I went any further than the upper limit of what Zinn recommended (2.18x inseam in CM,) I think this would be problematic. But going too small can be equally so unless you ride very casually.
To conclude, I find that Zinn's calculation is actually quite accurate, and is very good as a starting point. from that point onwards, its purely up to you to decide based on experimentation whatever works optimally.
I'd look into the KHS Flyte 747 which comes stock with 200mm ANDEL crank arms. I assure youd be exceedingly happy with the performance.
PS. I got up to roughly 97 revolutions during a brief mild incline yesterday. I wouldn't of been able to coordinate myself spinning like this with my old 165,170 or 175mm crank arms even with toe cages
.
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How useful is that link without mentioning inseam? Come on now. I read through the whole thing. They concluded that crank arm length is mostly a fit thing which I agree with. But what is it supposed to fit with. Your legs, right? This isn't the only factor to consider, but it certainly is a good starting point.
Originally Posted by Moistrure
I've gathered that with my current crank arms, there are zero penalties in over exaggerated range of motion which may compromise an efficient pedalling cadence.
Originally Posted by Moisture
But going too small can be equally so unless you ride very casually.
Originally Posted by Moisture
I got up to roughly 97 revolutions during a brief mild incline yesterday. I wouldn't of been able to coordinate myself spinning like this with my old 165,170 or 175mm crank arms even with toe cages.
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Clearly, you missed the point. With willful intent, no doubt.
Your conclusion is flat-out wrong. In the short term, you're compromising endurance. In the long term, you're very likely compromising the health of your joints - especially your knees.
Also flat-out wrong. Track cyclists typically use short cranks. Some of those guys and gals put out a LOT more power than you or I ever will.
I hit a max of 135 on a ride recently without even realizing it until I looked at my data after the ride. Rolling along for extended periods at 95-100 isn't difficult at all. It doesn't take a lot of practice to be able to do this. You're trying to convince yourself that you can move through a greater range of motion across multiple joints with higher frequency than you can with a shorter range of motion. 100% drippy bull$#!+.
Your conclusion is flat-out wrong. In the short term, you're compromising endurance. In the long term, you're very likely compromising the health of your joints - especially your knees.
Also flat-out wrong. Track cyclists typically use short cranks. Some of those guys and gals put out a LOT more power than you or I ever will.
I hit a max of 135 on a ride recently without even realizing it until I looked at my data after the ride. Rolling along for extended periods at 95-100 isn't difficult at all. It doesn't take a lot of practice to be able to do this. You're trying to convince yourself that you can move through a greater range of motion across multiple joints with higher frequency than you can with a shorter range of motion. 100% drippy bull$#!+.
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Best take care when approaching the event horizon of a black hole lest ye be pulled in.
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Yes, I did, but it really doesn't matter. You - very clearly - aren't going to be swayed from your own misguided conclusions, no matter what anyone says. As I've said before...good luck with that, drippy.
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Clearly, you missed the point. With willful intent, no doubt.
Your conclusion is flat-out wrong. In the short term, you're compromising endurance. In the long term, you're very likely compromising the health of your joints - especially your knees.
Also flat-out wrong. Track cyclists typically use short cranks. Some of those guys and gals put out a LOT more power than you or I ever will.
I hit a max of 135 on a ride recently without even realizing it until I looked at my data after the ride. Rolling along for extended periods at 95-100 isn't difficult at all. It doesn't take a lot of practice to be able to do this. You're trying to convince yourself that you can move through a greater range of motion across multiple joints with higher frequency than you can with a shorter range of motion. 100% drippy bull$#!+.
Your conclusion is flat-out wrong. In the short term, you're compromising endurance. In the long term, you're very likely compromising the health of your joints - especially your knees.
Also flat-out wrong. Track cyclists typically use short cranks. Some of those guys and gals put out a LOT more power than you or I ever will.
I hit a max of 135 on a ride recently without even realizing it until I looked at my data after the ride. Rolling along for extended periods at 95-100 isn't difficult at all. It doesn't take a lot of practice to be able to do this. You're trying to convince yourself that you can move through a greater range of motion across multiple joints with higher frequency than you can with a shorter range of motion. 100% drippy bull$#!+.
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C&V was once a bastion of sanity....
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And then it got all wet.
As far as the bike goes, I don't think the crankarm length is what's holding back old Moisty. That's sort of like the 500 pound guy who wonders if his moustache is the reason why women aren't interested in him.
As far as the bike goes, I don't think the crankarm length is what's holding back old Moisty. That's sort of like the 500 pound guy who wonders if his moustache is the reason why women aren't interested in him.
Last edited by Koyote; 03-11-21 at 11:31 AM.
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How useful is that link without mentioning inseam? Come on now. I read through the whole thing. They concluded that crank arm length is mostly a fit thing which I agree with. But what is it supposed to fit with. Your legs, right? This isn't the only factor to consider, but it certainly is a good starting point.
mstateglfr
On a regular bottom bracket height, I really wouldn't want anything past 190mm at the very max for pedal strike clearance anyways. But you can't knock it until you try it! I guarantee you'd be extremely happy with correctly proportioned crank arm lengths.
At the very least, I wouldn't be conclusive until you give it a fair try. It undoubtedly the best decision I ever made within the world of cycling and I would not hesitate to do it again.
I've gathered that with my current crank arms, there are zero penalties in over exaggerated range of motion which may compromise an efficient pedalling cadence. If I went any further than the upper limit of what Zinn recommended (2.18x inseam in CM,) I think this would be problematic. But going too small can be equally so unless you ride very casually.
To conclude, I find that Zinn's calculation is actually quite accurate, and is very good as a starting point. from that point onwards, its purely up to you to decide based on experimentation whatever works optimally.
I'd look into the KHS Flyte 747 which comes stock with 200mm ANDEL crank arms. I assure youd be exceedingly happy with the performance.
PS. I got up to roughly 97 revolutions during a brief mild incline yesterday. I wouldn't of been able to coordinate myself spinning like this with my old 165,170 or 175mm crank arms even with toe cages
.
mstateglfr
On a regular bottom bracket height, I really wouldn't want anything past 190mm at the very max for pedal strike clearance anyways. But you can't knock it until you try it! I guarantee you'd be extremely happy with correctly proportioned crank arm lengths.
At the very least, I wouldn't be conclusive until you give it a fair try. It undoubtedly the best decision I ever made within the world of cycling and I would not hesitate to do it again.
I've gathered that with my current crank arms, there are zero penalties in over exaggerated range of motion which may compromise an efficient pedalling cadence. If I went any further than the upper limit of what Zinn recommended (2.18x inseam in CM,) I think this would be problematic. But going too small can be equally so unless you ride very casually.
To conclude, I find that Zinn's calculation is actually quite accurate, and is very good as a starting point. from that point onwards, its purely up to you to decide based on experimentation whatever works optimally.
I'd look into the KHS Flyte 747 which comes stock with 200mm ANDEL crank arms. I assure youd be exceedingly happy with the performance.
PS. I got up to roughly 97 revolutions during a brief mild incline yesterday. I wouldn't of been able to coordinate myself spinning like this with my old 165,170 or 175mm crank arms even with toe cages
.
you make the same power all the way down to 130-140 so that’s not a real argument either.
if you comfortable and it doesn’t make your knees hurt that really all the justification you need
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Ahhh...yes. Thank you for reminding me.
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There are a lot of penalties to longer cranks with “an exaggerated range of motion” there’s been half a dozen university studies done on it since the 90’s.
you make the same power all the way down to 130-140 so that’s not a real argument either.
if you comfortable and it doesn’t make your knees hurt that really all the justification you need
you make the same power all the way down to 130-140 so that’s not a real argument either.
if you comfortable and it doesn’t make your knees hurt that really all the justification you need
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Somehow this discussion reminds me of the guy who found how to make bikes faster - using a taller gear, like a 60/11!
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I specifically changed my crankset because I was beginning to experience knee pain with the 175mm crank arms I was using. I always felt like I had to push hard on a spirited ride. I think the fact that I was pushing on the pedals with my toes by using the strap ins only exaggerated this. I realized that I had no choice but to ditch the whole biopace toe cage setup with the 175mm arms and stick to the basics. I have very strong joints; this is the first time I ever felt impingement in my knees so I knew I had little other choice. I was limiting my riding and not enjoying the ride nearly as much as I wanted to.
The 190mm crank arms have been significantly easier on my knees, especially when sprinting hard or climbing hills.
The 190mm crank arms have been significantly easier on my knees, especially when sprinting hard or climbing hills.
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I specifically changed my crankset because I was beginning to experience knee pain with the 175mm crank arms I was using. I always felt like I had to push hard on a spirited ride. I think the fact that I was pushing on the pedals with my toes by using the strap ins only exaggerated this. I realized that I had no choice but to ditch the whole biopace toe cage setup with the 175mm arms and stick to the basics. I have very strong joints; this is the first time I ever felt impingement in my knees so I knew I had little other choice. I was limiting my riding and not enjoying the ride nearly as much as I wanted to.
The 190mm crank arms have been significantly easier on my knees, especially when sprinting hard or climbing hills.
The 190mm crank arms have been significantly easier on my knees, especially when sprinting hard or climbing hills.
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I specifically changed my crankset because I was beginning to experience knee pain with the 175mm crank arms I was using. I always felt like I had to push hard on a spirited ride. I think the fact that I was pushing on the pedals with my toes by using the strap ins only exaggerated this. I realized that I had no choice but to ditch the whole biopace toe cage setup with the 175mm arms and stick to the basics. I have very strong joints; this is the first time I ever felt impingement in my knees so I knew I had little other choice. I was limiting my riding and not enjoying the ride nearly as much as I wanted to.
The 190mm crank arms have been significantly easier on my knees, especially when sprinting hard or climbing hills.
The 190mm crank arms have been significantly easier on my knees, especially when sprinting hard or climbing hills.
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#74
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I specifically changed my crankset because I was beginning to experience knee pain with the 175mm crank arms I was using. I always felt like I had to push hard on a spirited ride. I think the fact that I was pushing on the pedals with my toes by using the strap ins only exaggerated this.
Bottom line; if you can't spin your cranks at an efficient cadence they're probably not working for you!
Power is generated through either torque or cadence; by lengthening your cranks you will generate a little more torque for the same amount of effort but any advantage is then countered by the loss of cadence.
You should have stuck with 175 cranks and concentrated on the position of your foot on the pedal and learning to pedal properly. Instead you've just made another bad decision and tried to justify it to yourself by telling everyone else that they're all doing it wrong.
George Hincapie and Chris Froome both have longer inseams than you and they use 175mm cranks. Do you think their cranks are 'incorrect'?
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If we could just get Rydabent and Moisture into the same thread at the same time...
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