Anyone recommend a torque wrench?
#1
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Anyone recommend a torque wrench?
Mates,
Are there torque wrenches out there that you like that are less expensive than Park Tool?
need one for new carbon parts/bike.
cheers!
Are there torque wrenches out there that you like that are less expensive than Park Tool?
need one for new carbon parts/bike.
cheers!
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Any generic torque wrench will do. You'll probably need two. Small one in the inch/pound range for the low torque stuffs like face plates and tension caps, and the automotive kind for the higher torque items like the bottom bracket which measure in ft/pound.
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By miraculous coincidence, this just bubbled up: https://www.bikeforums.net/bicycle-m...-wrenches.html
#4
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This one from Nashbar (which is sold under different brands from different retailers) works great.
I've used it for years.
For higher torque (cassette & crank) I use an old mid-level click type with a 1/2" drive.
You could get something from HD or Harbor Freight, no need to spend $100's on digital torque wrench.
I've used it for years.
For higher torque (cassette & crank) I use an old mid-level click type with a 1/2" drive.
You could get something from HD or Harbor Freight, no need to spend $100's on digital torque wrench.
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I like my Venzo 1/4" 2-24n-m range wench. Nice size for most bicycle work and a range that you care about for small fasteners. I think they run about $60.
I have a larger Snap-on 3/8" 'Professional' digital torque wench that costs almost x10 more because I'm a hopeless tool junkie and need help.
I have a larger Snap-on 3/8" 'Professional' digital torque wench that costs almost x10 more because I'm a hopeless tool junkie and need help.
Last edited by billridesbikes; 04-05-21 at 07:05 PM.
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I got this digital torque adapter. Its use is straightforward unlike that of some baffling torque wrenches I got in the past.
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I have this Feedback and am happy with it so far after more than a year of use:
https://www.rei.com/product/147664/f...E&gclsrc=aw.ds
https://www.rei.com/product/147664/f...E&gclsrc=aw.ds
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Tekton has a decent one, the brand seems to have taken the place of craftsman for rebadging a lot of American made products and selling them at a reasonable price. Never anything amazing but reliable and dependable.
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I like this tiny torque wrench: Amazon.com : Topeak Nano TorqBar 6 with 5 Tool bits, 6nm : Sports & Outdoors
It fits in all the hard to reach spots, e.g., hidden seat post clamp, front bolt for saddle rail clamp, STI lever clamp. It is only for a single torque setting (6 nm) but there are also other versions (4 nm, 5 nm) available with different torque settings.
It fits in all the hard to reach spots, e.g., hidden seat post clamp, front bolt for saddle rail clamp, STI lever clamp. It is only for a single torque setting (6 nm) but there are also other versions (4 nm, 5 nm) available with different torque settings.
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Thank you!
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I have a few torque wrenches. One is a 1/2 drive that I used when I was fixing my cars. The other is an old JoLine 3/8 my Dad got from aerospace surplus 50 years ago. I just picked up an old, looks unused, Proto 10-200 inch/lb off eBay pretty cheap.
I dont use them much on a bike, but they are nice to have. I would guess freehub body bolts, cassette lockrings, square taper crank bolts are generally under torqued. Stems, seatposts are over torqued.
I should figure out a way to calibrate them, but Ive comparatively checked them so they are close to each other. Usually bike torque ranges are wide enough that the middle of the range is safe enough.
John
I dont use them much on a bike, but they are nice to have. I would guess freehub body bolts, cassette lockrings, square taper crank bolts are generally under torqued. Stems, seatposts are over torqued.
I should figure out a way to calibrate them, but Ive comparatively checked them so they are close to each other. Usually bike torque ranges are wide enough that the middle of the range is safe enough.
John
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I bought this one a while back. I like it a lot. One of the features I like best is that the scale is printed in even nM increments, which is the typical unit of measure for bike bolts.
https://www.amazon.com/Pro-Bike-Tool.../dp/B07JKJTDWC
https://www.amazon.com/Pro-Bike-Tool.../dp/B07JKJTDWC
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And your bust just about every bolt on your bike if you use one like that, the max you will ever realistically go on a bike in 40/50nm 29/37 LB FT for a cassette lockring (Shimano 40nm/Campag 50nm), most bolts will be in the 5-10nm range, and a few in the 10-25nm range.
That torque wrench is for motor vehicles, and has no place near a bike, it will cost far more in damage than it will ever save in getting correct torques
That torque wrench is for motor vehicles, and has no place near a bike, it will cost far more in damage than it will ever save in getting correct torques
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... 25-70 Nm (240-610 in-lb) for bottom brackets...
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Again as I always say buy the best tools you can and then you only buy them once. A cheap tool is one of those things you need only once and not for anything critical. If you are really looking for something basic that has limited torque range this is a perfect option: https://www.parktool.com/product/adj...driver-atd-1-2 (and yes it is made by Park Tool and yes Park Tool does some tools that I may not recommend for somethings but would for others)
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By miraculous coincidence, this just bubbled up: https://www.bikeforums.net/bicycle-m...-wrenches.html
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I wouldn't spend what they are asking - no, gouging, for a Park Tool torque wrench. I have three Harbor Fright torque wrenches, a 1/4", a 3/8", and a 1/2". They seem as good as the Park Tool wrenches at a fraction of the price. I've used these wrenches for various things over the years, and I have to say that they work just fine. A torque wrench is used for being sure that you have enough torque on a fastener to hold it in place, but not more than it needs. Most cheapo torque wrenches will do the job on a bicycle admirably. My son-in-law was a professional diesel mech before he became a humvee and equipment mechanic for the USMC. His tools are worth more than my truck! He has the very expensive digital torque wrenches, which are an absolute joy to use, but they do come dear. I think the point I'm trying to make here is that if you are a pro, then go pro. If you want a torque wrench for the home shop, and no one's life is at stake, then get a "regular quality" torque wrench and you'll be fine.
#22
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I have a 1/4 inch beam Park Tool torque wrench. I needed a bigger range than it's maximum, so I got a cheap Harbor Freight click type wrench.
I compared the two within the range of the park tool one, and the Harbor Freight one was quite close to the accurate Park Tool wrench. It's good enough for bike bolts.
I don't usually torque things like seat posts to the maximum recommended torque anyway, if it holds without slipping. The torque wrench is more for 1--not exceeding maximum torque, 2--consistent torque on multiple bolts, like stems or chainrings.
I compared the two within the range of the park tool one, and the Harbor Freight one was quite close to the accurate Park Tool wrench. It's good enough for bike bolts.
I don't usually torque things like seat posts to the maximum recommended torque anyway, if it holds without slipping. The torque wrench is more for 1--not exceeding maximum torque, 2--consistent torque on multiple bolts, like stems or chainrings.
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And your bust just about every bolt on your bike if you use one like that, the max you will ever realistically go on a bike in 40/50nm 29/37 LB FT for a cassette lockring (Shimano 40nm/Campag 50nm), most bolts will be in the 5-10nm range, and a few in the 10-25nm range.
That torque wrench is for motor vehicles, and has no place near a bike, it will cost far more in damage than it will ever save in getting correct torques
That torque wrench is for motor vehicles, and has no place near a bike, it will cost far more in damage than it will ever save in getting correct torques
This type is not as convenient as the click wrenches, but for occasional use and low budgets, they're great.
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For those with accuracy attention deficiency...
John
John
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I use a couple of beam-type wrenches for bike work - the small is ~2-10 Nm 1/4" drive, and the larger one ~5-100 Nm 3/8" drive. Both Craftsman, IIRC - hhese do pretty much everything. I have some click-type wrenches ranging from 10 ft.lb to 250 ft.lb for automotive work. These range from Craftsman, Harbor Freight (pretty crude, but works OK) to a big Kobalt (surprisingly good) to a very nice digital (Quinn).
Last edited by Litespud; 04-07-21 at 11:59 AM.