Clunker 100 Challenge COVID 2.0 edition #7
#301
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Ross Centaur
Rusty chain and freewheel
Hopefully working brakes...suspect tires
Hoping this is not oxidationed in...
Low range Biopace...maybe pre Tiagra?
The wheel turns so likely surface rust on the cups.
Crapperiffic stem...ugh...might have to keep since I’d have to remove the grips to change out the stem.
Nice little crack on tires...unfortunately I have no 27” tires and they are pretty pricey...DUCT tape!!!
Wheels seem pretty smooth actually.
__________________
1987 Crest Cannondale, 1987 Basso Gap, 1992 Rossin Performance EL, 1990ish Van Tuyl, 1985 Trek 670, 1982 AD SLE, 2003 Pinarello Surprise, 1990ish MBK Atlantique, 1987 Peugeot Competition, 1987 Nishiki Tri-A, 1981 Faggin, 1996 Cannondale M500, 1984 Mercian, 1982 AD SuperLeicht, 1985 Massi (model unknown), 1988 Daccordi Griffe , 1989 Fauxsin MTB, 1981 Ciocc Mockba, 1992 Bianchi Giro, 1977 Colnago Super
1987 Crest Cannondale, 1987 Basso Gap, 1992 Rossin Performance EL, 1990ish Van Tuyl, 1985 Trek 670, 1982 AD SLE, 2003 Pinarello Surprise, 1990ish MBK Atlantique, 1987 Peugeot Competition, 1987 Nishiki Tri-A, 1981 Faggin, 1996 Cannondale M500, 1984 Mercian, 1982 AD SuperLeicht, 1985 Massi (model unknown), 1988 Daccordi Griffe , 1989 Fauxsin MTB, 1981 Ciocc Mockba, 1992 Bianchi Giro, 1977 Colnago Super
#302
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it was definitely interesting and at $50 worth the fun. I am toying with spending up to the limit and really making a decent bike of it, or riding as is as a second entry. The Nishiki will actually be quite nice even under $100.
not a fan of foam or turkey levers...or cracks in tires but the seat is a Vetta and seems comfortable enough. We’ll see if it cranks up enough with the rust and cracked tires and maybe I will keep rides short in case of catastrophic tire and rust failure.
and I think you are right. Ross was positioning for the end game of the company.
not a fan of foam or turkey levers...or cracks in tires but the seat is a Vetta and seems comfortable enough. We’ll see if it cranks up enough with the rust and cracked tires and maybe I will keep rides short in case of catastrophic tire and rust failure.
and I think you are right. Ross was positioning for the end game of the company.
I don't think the Ross ladder was that high in 1987, they were nearing the end at that point, and I don't even think the Signature dept. was building bikes then either. There are no Signature bikes in the '87 catalog (they were in the '86 catalog). There are no other road bikes in the catalog "higher up" than the Centaur, and you can see the turkey levers in the catalog pics. I guess those "discerning buyers" didn't care hahaha.
Still a cool bike, for what it is.
Still a cool bike, for what it is.
__________________
1987 Crest Cannondale, 1987 Basso Gap, 1992 Rossin Performance EL, 1990ish Van Tuyl, 1985 Trek 670, 1982 AD SLE, 2003 Pinarello Surprise, 1990ish MBK Atlantique, 1987 Peugeot Competition, 1987 Nishiki Tri-A, 1981 Faggin, 1996 Cannondale M500, 1984 Mercian, 1982 AD SuperLeicht, 1985 Massi (model unknown), 1988 Daccordi Griffe , 1989 Fauxsin MTB, 1981 Ciocc Mockba, 1992 Bianchi Giro, 1977 Colnago Super
1987 Crest Cannondale, 1987 Basso Gap, 1992 Rossin Performance EL, 1990ish Van Tuyl, 1985 Trek 670, 1982 AD SLE, 2003 Pinarello Surprise, 1990ish MBK Atlantique, 1987 Peugeot Competition, 1987 Nishiki Tri-A, 1981 Faggin, 1996 Cannondale M500, 1984 Mercian, 1982 AD SuperLeicht, 1985 Massi (model unknown), 1988 Daccordi Griffe , 1989 Fauxsin MTB, 1981 Ciocc Mockba, 1992 Bianchi Giro, 1977 Colnago Super
#303
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I decided to push the envelope a little on today's clunker ride. I swapped my saddle bag, put on some lights from another bike (two rear, one front), and headed out.
There's a "new" bike path along the river, so I thought I'd give it a try. They built it along one of the busy, tourist infested roads I typically ride, so the dedicated bike path is a bit of a relief.
All was going well through the first 5 miles. Right after departing from a stoplight (on a road section of the path), I ran over something small I didn't see, and got the dreaded "psst.....psst......psst.......psst" with every tire rotation. Fortunately there was a shaded pull-off/parking area, so I fixed the flat there. Didn't find anything in the tire, couldn't find the hole in the tube, but whatever, I put in the spare tube and immediately headed home. It was very stressful trying to avoid any kinds of objects that were harder than a piece of overcooked spaghetti, because whatever I hit was super tiny (didn't even really feel a bump), yet still punctured tube/tire. I didn't want that to happen on the way back. I still managed an acceptable 10.6 mile ride, even though I had planned on going about another 6.
While changing the flat, I came to the realization that the tires that are on it, those nos Continental GranDSport 20mm from post number 102, are a crash waiting to happen. They are dry rotted, the casings are coming apart, flaking off, dangerous. So I need a ruling form the most gracious and benevolent Narhay, the bestest Clunker Challenge Overlord about how to invoice the tires and tubes I'll be putting on the bike from here forward. I bought them at the bike thrift store (actually bought them last week, in case this exact situation were to arise. see pic below), white dot/$3 each (plus tax), and I have tubes from my box-o-tubes here at the house which I was going to claim at the bts price of $2/ea +tax. Being as this is an immediate safety issue, can I get some kind of reduced valuation, maybe half price? I am still under budget either way, but it might be nice to have a little more wiggle room should something else come up. I will claim the full $2 +tax for the spare tube I put in after today's flat.
As of now:
-Cumulative mileage 16.2 miles / ~26.1 kilometers.
-$85.56 total expenses (including the spare tube installed today, mentioned above, but not including what fantastic Narhay has to say about the necessary replacement tires/tubes)
On the bike path:
After fixing the flat:
Mileage after returning home without further incident:
Recently acquired Bike Thrift Store tires. These will probably also improve the "cushiness" of the ride:
There's a "new" bike path along the river, so I thought I'd give it a try. They built it along one of the busy, tourist infested roads I typically ride, so the dedicated bike path is a bit of a relief.
All was going well through the first 5 miles. Right after departing from a stoplight (on a road section of the path), I ran over something small I didn't see, and got the dreaded "psst.....psst......psst.......psst" with every tire rotation. Fortunately there was a shaded pull-off/parking area, so I fixed the flat there. Didn't find anything in the tire, couldn't find the hole in the tube, but whatever, I put in the spare tube and immediately headed home. It was very stressful trying to avoid any kinds of objects that were harder than a piece of overcooked spaghetti, because whatever I hit was super tiny (didn't even really feel a bump), yet still punctured tube/tire. I didn't want that to happen on the way back. I still managed an acceptable 10.6 mile ride, even though I had planned on going about another 6.
While changing the flat, I came to the realization that the tires that are on it, those nos Continental GranDSport 20mm from post number 102, are a crash waiting to happen. They are dry rotted, the casings are coming apart, flaking off, dangerous. So I need a ruling form the most gracious and benevolent Narhay, the bestest Clunker Challenge Overlord about how to invoice the tires and tubes I'll be putting on the bike from here forward. I bought them at the bike thrift store (actually bought them last week, in case this exact situation were to arise. see pic below), white dot/$3 each (plus tax), and I have tubes from my box-o-tubes here at the house which I was going to claim at the bts price of $2/ea +tax. Being as this is an immediate safety issue, can I get some kind of reduced valuation, maybe half price? I am still under budget either way, but it might be nice to have a little more wiggle room should something else come up. I will claim the full $2 +tax for the spare tube I put in after today's flat.
As of now:
-Cumulative mileage 16.2 miles / ~26.1 kilometers.
-$85.56 total expenses (including the spare tube installed today, mentioned above, but not including what fantastic Narhay has to say about the necessary replacement tires/tubes)
On the bike path:
After fixing the flat:
Mileage after returning home without further incident:
Recently acquired Bike Thrift Store tires. These will probably also improve the "cushiness" of the ride:
__________________
1987 Crest Cannondale, 1987 Basso Gap, 1992 Rossin Performance EL, 1990ish Van Tuyl, 1985 Trek 670, 1982 AD SLE, 2003 Pinarello Surprise, 1990ish MBK Atlantique, 1987 Peugeot Competition, 1987 Nishiki Tri-A, 1981 Faggin, 1996 Cannondale M500, 1984 Mercian, 1982 AD SuperLeicht, 1985 Massi (model unknown), 1988 Daccordi Griffe , 1989 Fauxsin MTB, 1981 Ciocc Mockba, 1992 Bianchi Giro, 1977 Colnago Super
1987 Crest Cannondale, 1987 Basso Gap, 1992 Rossin Performance EL, 1990ish Van Tuyl, 1985 Trek 670, 1982 AD SLE, 2003 Pinarello Surprise, 1990ish MBK Atlantique, 1987 Peugeot Competition, 1987 Nishiki Tri-A, 1981 Faggin, 1996 Cannondale M500, 1984 Mercian, 1982 AD SuperLeicht, 1985 Massi (model unknown), 1988 Daccordi Griffe , 1989 Fauxsin MTB, 1981 Ciocc Mockba, 1992 Bianchi Giro, 1977 Colnago Super
#304
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Thanks! I feel like this challenge is all about doing a lot with as little as possible, and I couldn't just let @nlerner's barbershop seat tube go unchallenged. .
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#305
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Rusty chain and freewheel
Hopefully working brakes...suspect tires
Hoping this is not oxidationed in...
Low range Biopace...maybe pre Tiagra?
The wheel turns so likely surface rust on the cups.
Crapperiffic stem...ugh...might have to keep since I’d have to remove the grips to change out the stem.
Nice little crack on tires...unfortunately I have no 27” tires and they are pretty pricey...DUCT tape!!!
Wheels seem pretty smooth actually.
#306
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...as for the tires, I am going to see what happens with the first few rides (if I live or die) to see if I can do the challenge without a single thing done except WD40...not sure...you sort of inspired me and today scared me a bit...!
First sign of incident I will take you up on it!
__________________
1987 Crest Cannondale, 1987 Basso Gap, 1992 Rossin Performance EL, 1990ish Van Tuyl, 1985 Trek 670, 1982 AD SLE, 2003 Pinarello Surprise, 1990ish MBK Atlantique, 1987 Peugeot Competition, 1987 Nishiki Tri-A, 1981 Faggin, 1996 Cannondale M500, 1984 Mercian, 1982 AD SuperLeicht, 1985 Massi (model unknown), 1988 Daccordi Griffe , 1989 Fauxsin MTB, 1981 Ciocc Mockba, 1992 Bianchi Giro, 1977 Colnago Super
1987 Crest Cannondale, 1987 Basso Gap, 1992 Rossin Performance EL, 1990ish Van Tuyl, 1985 Trek 670, 1982 AD SLE, 2003 Pinarello Surprise, 1990ish MBK Atlantique, 1987 Peugeot Competition, 1987 Nishiki Tri-A, 1981 Faggin, 1996 Cannondale M500, 1984 Mercian, 1982 AD SuperLeicht, 1985 Massi (model unknown), 1988 Daccordi Griffe , 1989 Fauxsin MTB, 1981 Ciocc Mockba, 1992 Bianchi Giro, 1977 Colnago Super
#307
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#308
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The KHS is gone, sniffle sniffle, but won't be forgotten. I will be able to salvage very happily from the anchor of remaining parts. Already paying off the chain from the junker is on my now finished slightly upgraded Peugeot PR10-L
This bike was proudly sporting a wonderful coating of alge and pine needles upon purchase. The original tubular Maillard on Mavic wheelset has been swapped for Miche Competition on Mavic Module 3 rims. The Simplex is all original, the front surprisingly is not broken, both the front and rear derailleurs have been slobbed with grease. I'm hoping the grease will soak in the plastic and keep the front derailleur from cracking on the re-install. Normally I don't remove Simplex if it there the stuff is so brittle this time though the front derailleur is rusted stuck innards. I do think I can salvage the Simplex, I got the cage budge a mm. Pictured are the original Lyotard pedals, they still have mold, original plastic body brake levers, original bartape, and original brake cables. The original seatpost and saddle were not of my cosmetic standards? If I ever had any. The original gear cables where rusted up have been replaced.
This Peugeot required a bb removal along with a chase and face from the local shop, shout out for Wright Bros. in Seattle for their service.
This bike was proudly sporting a wonderful coating of alge and pine needles upon purchase. The original tubular Maillard on Mavic wheelset has been swapped for Miche Competition on Mavic Module 3 rims. The Simplex is all original, the front surprisingly is not broken, both the front and rear derailleurs have been slobbed with grease. I'm hoping the grease will soak in the plastic and keep the front derailleur from cracking on the re-install. Normally I don't remove Simplex if it there the stuff is so brittle this time though the front derailleur is rusted stuck innards. I do think I can salvage the Simplex, I got the cage budge a mm. Pictured are the original Lyotard pedals, they still have mold, original plastic body brake levers, original bartape, and original brake cables. The original seatpost and saddle were not of my cosmetic standards? If I ever had any. The original gear cables where rusted up have been replaced.
This Peugeot required a bb removal along with a chase and face from the local shop, shout out for Wright Bros. in Seattle for their service.
Last edited by Mr. 66; 05-27-21 at 12:41 PM.
#309
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That is just an awesome bike, and clearly the case of a really nice bike being reclaimed under the banner of a Clunker Challenge. I had a slightly later, c.1975-76 PR-10L and thought it rode as nicely as any of my full 531 PX-10s. It helps when they're 58 cm or larger, I think - the stays and forks can be a bit stouter with no real penalty, ride quality wise. The KHS is dead, long live the PR-10L!
#310
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My project has hit a snag.
The bike is pretty much done, but a week and a half ago mrs non-fixie has apparently made a movement her back did not wholly appreciate, and she has been drugged up to her eyeballs with opioids since. Things are getting better, but it might be a while before she actually will want to ride a bike again.
Current status: all the bike needs needs is for the brakes to be adjusted:
The bike is pretty much done, but a week and a half ago mrs non-fixie has apparently made a movement her back did not wholly appreciate, and she has been drugged up to her eyeballs with opioids since. Things are getting better, but it might be a while before she actually will want to ride a bike again.
Current status: all the bike needs needs is for the brakes to be adjusted:
#311
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Best wishes to Mrs NF for a speedy recovery.
#312
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I worked some this morning before everyone else woke up. I decided to use the Origin8 saddle that had been entombed by the lace-up gel cover, as it comes relatively close to the shape of a B17 AND it came with the bike. I greased up the stem and fitted the bars as high as they can safely go, grateful for the additional height granted by the too-tall steerer and stack o' spacers that accompany the replacement fork. I dialed in the saddle height to get a sense of how it would all look and was well pleased. I put the brake calipers back on and repaired and readjusted the front so that the quick-release mechanism works again and kissed all the junctures of moving parts with Tri-Flow.
If I was really serious about this bike I would strip the tattered paint off it and shoot it gloss black and be done with it. And it would probably look pretty cool that way, too. But for now I am in a hurry, so I plan on building it up some more tomorrow morning, probably fitting the cranks and adjusting the BB. Future plans may well involve taking it to a local powdercoating firm for a nice gloss black look, we'll see. For now, the red zip ties look better to my eye than the black ones did.
Also on the agenda - a trip back to the LBS back room, to see if I can find a suitable rear wheel and trade back the one that came with the bike. I'm hoping to find either a 130 mm spaced rear that works for this bike, or even better a 126 spaced wheel so that I can do a three-way swap of wheels - a nice 126 + a used front wheel I bought the other week could go on my Mercian Colorado, which would let me swap the 105/Wolber wheels on that bike over to my son's Mercian KOM, which would in turn free up the RSX/Mavic MA rear wheel spaced at 130 for this bike - AND that last wheel came free with a gift bike AND the Mavic MA looks identical to the probably Mavic rim on the front wheel that came with this bike - you see how this goes?
Anyway, here are pix!
See what I mean about the red zip ties? Who knows, maybe I'll fall in love with the bike and buy replacement 3-D printed cable guides ...
If I was really serious about this bike I would strip the tattered paint off it and shoot it gloss black and be done with it. And it would probably look pretty cool that way, too. But for now I am in a hurry, so I plan on building it up some more tomorrow morning, probably fitting the cranks and adjusting the BB. Future plans may well involve taking it to a local powdercoating firm for a nice gloss black look, we'll see. For now, the red zip ties look better to my eye than the black ones did.
Also on the agenda - a trip back to the LBS back room, to see if I can find a suitable rear wheel and trade back the one that came with the bike. I'm hoping to find either a 130 mm spaced rear that works for this bike, or even better a 126 spaced wheel so that I can do a three-way swap of wheels - a nice 126 + a used front wheel I bought the other week could go on my Mercian Colorado, which would let me swap the 105/Wolber wheels on that bike over to my son's Mercian KOM, which would in turn free up the RSX/Mavic MA rear wheel spaced at 130 for this bike - AND that last wheel came free with a gift bike AND the Mavic MA looks identical to the probably Mavic rim on the front wheel that came with this bike - you see how this goes?
Anyway, here are pix!
See what I mean about the red zip ties? Who knows, maybe I'll fall in love with the bike and buy replacement 3-D printed cable guides ...
Last edited by rustystrings61; 05-27-21 at 04:06 PM.
#313
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I figured that regardless of the decision about my financial deferment request (post number 313) from our highest and most gracious leader Narhay , my kids would probably appreciate their dad having all his teeth and no broken bones (or worse), so I went ahead and swapped out the dry rotting and falling apart GrandSports, for nicer tires that were not falling apart: an UltraSport 25mm (rear) and a GP4000SII 23mm (front), along with used tubes.
__________________
1987 Crest Cannondale, 1987 Basso Gap, 1992 Rossin Performance EL, 1990ish Van Tuyl, 1985 Trek 670, 1982 AD SLE, 2003 Pinarello Surprise, 1990ish MBK Atlantique, 1987 Peugeot Competition, 1987 Nishiki Tri-A, 1981 Faggin, 1996 Cannondale M500, 1984 Mercian, 1982 AD SuperLeicht, 1985 Massi (model unknown), 1988 Daccordi Griffe , 1989 Fauxsin MTB, 1981 Ciocc Mockba, 1992 Bianchi Giro, 1977 Colnago Super
1987 Crest Cannondale, 1987 Basso Gap, 1992 Rossin Performance EL, 1990ish Van Tuyl, 1985 Trek 670, 1982 AD SLE, 2003 Pinarello Surprise, 1990ish MBK Atlantique, 1987 Peugeot Competition, 1987 Nishiki Tri-A, 1981 Faggin, 1996 Cannondale M500, 1984 Mercian, 1982 AD SuperLeicht, 1985 Massi (model unknown), 1988 Daccordi Griffe , 1989 Fauxsin MTB, 1981 Ciocc Mockba, 1992 Bianchi Giro, 1977 Colnago Super
#314
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it wasn’t algae...it was “dark mint green paint”...
I might be stuffing some pine needles in the cracks of the Kenda kismet tires...
I might be stuffing some pine needles in the cracks of the Kenda kismet tires...
The KHS is gone, sniffle sniffle, but won't be forgotten. I will be able to salvage very happily from the anchor of remaining parts. Already paying off the chain from the junker is on my now finished slightly upgraded Peugeot PR10-L
This bike was proudly sporting a wonderful coating of alge and pine needles upon purchase. The original tubular Maillard on Mavic wheelset has been swapped for Miche Competition on Mavic Module 3 rims. The Simplex is all original, the front surprisingly is not broken, both the front and rear derailleurs have been slobbed with grease. I'm hoping the grease will soak in the plastic and keep the front derailleur from cracking on the re-install. Normally I don't remove Simplex if it there the stuff is so brittle this time though the front derailleur is rusted stuck innards. I do think I can salvage the Simplex, I got the cage budge a mm. Pictured are the original Lyotard pedals, they still have mold, original plastic body brake levers, original bartape, and original brake cables. The original seatpost and saddle were not of my cosmetic standards? If I ever had any. The original gear cables where rusted up have been replaced.
This Peugeot required a bb removal along with a chase and face from the local shop, shout out for Wright Bros. in Seattle for their service.
This bike was proudly sporting a wonderful coating of alge and pine needles upon purchase. The original tubular Maillard on Mavic wheelset has been swapped for Miche Competition on Mavic Module 3 rims. The Simplex is all original, the front surprisingly is not broken, both the front and rear derailleurs have been slobbed with grease. I'm hoping the grease will soak in the plastic and keep the front derailleur from cracking on the re-install. Normally I don't remove Simplex if it there the stuff is so brittle this time though the front derailleur is rusted stuck innards. I do think I can salvage the Simplex, I got the cage budge a mm. Pictured are the original Lyotard pedals, they still have mold, original plastic body brake levers, original bartape, and original brake cables. The original seatpost and saddle were not of my cosmetic standards? If I ever had any. The original gear cables where rusted up have been replaced.
This Peugeot required a bb removal along with a chase and face from the local shop, shout out for Wright Bros. in Seattle for their service.
__________________
1987 Crest Cannondale, 1987 Basso Gap, 1992 Rossin Performance EL, 1990ish Van Tuyl, 1985 Trek 670, 1982 AD SLE, 2003 Pinarello Surprise, 1990ish MBK Atlantique, 1987 Peugeot Competition, 1987 Nishiki Tri-A, 1981 Faggin, 1996 Cannondale M500, 1984 Mercian, 1982 AD SuperLeicht, 1985 Massi (model unknown), 1988 Daccordi Griffe , 1989 Fauxsin MTB, 1981 Ciocc Mockba, 1992 Bianchi Giro, 1977 Colnago Super
1987 Crest Cannondale, 1987 Basso Gap, 1992 Rossin Performance EL, 1990ish Van Tuyl, 1985 Trek 670, 1982 AD SLE, 2003 Pinarello Surprise, 1990ish MBK Atlantique, 1987 Peugeot Competition, 1987 Nishiki Tri-A, 1981 Faggin, 1996 Cannondale M500, 1984 Mercian, 1982 AD SuperLeicht, 1985 Massi (model unknown), 1988 Daccordi Griffe , 1989 Fauxsin MTB, 1981 Ciocc Mockba, 1992 Bianchi Giro, 1977 Colnago Super
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#316
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Thank you! Things seem to be moving in the right direction, so hopefully she'll be able to ride the bike before the deadline.
#317
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Health first, Clunker second! Best wishes to Ms. Non-fixie
__________________
1987 Crest Cannondale, 1987 Basso Gap, 1992 Rossin Performance EL, 1990ish Van Tuyl, 1985 Trek 670, 1982 AD SLE, 2003 Pinarello Surprise, 1990ish MBK Atlantique, 1987 Peugeot Competition, 1987 Nishiki Tri-A, 1981 Faggin, 1996 Cannondale M500, 1984 Mercian, 1982 AD SuperLeicht, 1985 Massi (model unknown), 1988 Daccordi Griffe , 1989 Fauxsin MTB, 1981 Ciocc Mockba, 1992 Bianchi Giro, 1977 Colnago Super
1987 Crest Cannondale, 1987 Basso Gap, 1992 Rossin Performance EL, 1990ish Van Tuyl, 1985 Trek 670, 1982 AD SLE, 2003 Pinarello Surprise, 1990ish MBK Atlantique, 1987 Peugeot Competition, 1987 Nishiki Tri-A, 1981 Faggin, 1996 Cannondale M500, 1984 Mercian, 1982 AD SuperLeicht, 1985 Massi (model unknown), 1988 Daccordi Griffe , 1989 Fauxsin MTB, 1981 Ciocc Mockba, 1992 Bianchi Giro, 1977 Colnago Super
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#318
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Join Date: Aug 2013
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Took the Rampar Giro out for 6 kilometers today. I had another post office run before this ride, so my total is now 49 kilometers. Along the way I was cheered on by the locals.
Nice to have support. Also nice that the boundaries are clearly marked.
That much closer to the goal!
Nice to have support. Also nice that the boundaries are clearly marked.
That much closer to the goal!
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#319
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2013
Location: Greenwood SC USA
Posts: 2,252
Bikes: 2002 Mercian Vincitore, 1982 Mercian Colorado, 1976 Puch Royal X, 1973 Raleigh Competition, 1971 Gitane Tour de France and others
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No pix right now, but a busy morning so far. I mounted the cranks and was pleased to find a smooth running but slop-free setting for the bottom bracket. Then I thought I would go ahead and swap over the bar end shifters I had gotten as freebies. The first odd moment was realizing that the brake levers were mismatched. How had I not seen this? The left was a nice old Dia-Compe aero, the left a Shimano aero unit of some sort or another. Both were clad in ill-fitting Shimano black hoods. I looked at the bent handlebars from which I was about to remove bar end shifters, saw the nice matching Dia-Compe aero levers with brown hoods and went to work. A quick spritz of some Armor All on the crusty hoods and they were useable again. Then I got to fiddle with brake cables and housings, as well as adjust positions of things. I used the cables and housings that came with the Cannondale, and eventually got it all sorted out.
Initially I was very happy with the Shimano bar ends. These are the 70s variant with the big spring, and I can see how they could be very nice. I set them up and was initially very pleased, as it looked like I could use the existing housings and cables - both also free - and get them all to work. Alas, no - the housings and the cables themselves are just too short to be wrapped all the way under the stem. Maybe if I routed them like 70s bar con cables, where they emerged from under the bar tape at the level of the brake hoods, but that will probably look a bit stupid with aero brake cable routing. I will dig in the bins and see if I can enough scavenged scraps to make this work. If not, I have a set of Shimano Light Action shifters that came on last year's essentially free donor bike, and I suspect I could pull them from their stem clamp and affix them to the shift bosses. We'll see.
Finally, I swung back by the LBS and made a straight trade of the heavy hybrid-styled 135 mm spaced rear wheel that came with the bike for a vintage 700C wheel combining what appears to be a SunTour sealed bearing hub with an Araya rim. Much better, and it even looks like it's preset to 130 mm OLD. I wasn't looking forward to repacking and respacing and re-dishing that heavy wheel. Now to prowl my parts bin for a suitable 6- or 7-speed freewheel and a rear skewer.
Initially I was very happy with the Shimano bar ends. These are the 70s variant with the big spring, and I can see how they could be very nice. I set them up and was initially very pleased, as it looked like I could use the existing housings and cables - both also free - and get them all to work. Alas, no - the housings and the cables themselves are just too short to be wrapped all the way under the stem. Maybe if I routed them like 70s bar con cables, where they emerged from under the bar tape at the level of the brake hoods, but that will probably look a bit stupid with aero brake cable routing. I will dig in the bins and see if I can enough scavenged scraps to make this work. If not, I have a set of Shimano Light Action shifters that came on last year's essentially free donor bike, and I suspect I could pull them from their stem clamp and affix them to the shift bosses. We'll see.
Finally, I swung back by the LBS and made a straight trade of the heavy hybrid-styled 135 mm spaced rear wheel that came with the bike for a vintage 700C wheel combining what appears to be a SunTour sealed bearing hub with an Araya rim. Much better, and it even looks like it's preset to 130 mm OLD. I wasn't looking forward to repacking and respacing and re-dishing that heavy wheel. Now to prowl my parts bin for a suitable 6- or 7-speed freewheel and a rear skewer.
#320
Senior Member
clunker reset!
Picked up another freebee yesterday. It was a nice bike at one time. As best I can tell it's a 81 Lotus Odyssey. It lacks the cantilever brakes of later model years and has a Sequoia vibe to it. It had obviously been sitting quite a while, but neither the stem or seatpost are stuck. There is, however, a long list of other tasks required to make this bike road worthy again. It that regard it is better suited to the clunker challenge. The annulled 1977 Raleigh Record LTD clunker, with it's freshly straightened rear derailleur, is headed to goodwill ahead of schedule.
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#321
Newbie
Join Date: Mar 2020
Location: New Hampshire
Posts: 50
Bikes: 4 Raleigh's (1 International, 3 Super Course), 2 Miyata (610, Alumicross), one each Bianchi Eros, Fuji Cross Pro, Lotus Excelle, Paramount Series 7 Carbon,Specialized Sirrus Comp, Trek something mountain bike, Univega Super Strada, Wheeler Tremosinep
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After adjusting handlebar position and tightening front wheel quick-release skewer, I took Green Super Course out again for a 2nd ride) to same location as 1st ride. Wheel twitchiness gone. Not that it matters, but, by my calculations, the head tube angle with the 700c front wheel and 27" rear is about 1/2 degree steeper than stock.
#322
Newbie
Join Date: Mar 2020
Location: New Hampshire
Posts: 50
Bikes: 4 Raleigh's (1 International, 3 Super Course), 2 Miyata (610, Alumicross), one each Bianchi Eros, Fuji Cross Pro, Lotus Excelle, Paramount Series 7 Carbon,Specialized Sirrus Comp, Trek something mountain bike, Univega Super Strada, Wheeler Tremosinep
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Posting non-sequentially, but need to go backwards and describe the rebuild of the Green Super Course, when I get to 10 posts I'll come back and add pics.
Initial disassembly of Green Super Course found the obligatory stuck seat post and handlebar stem. I’ll have to clean up the rust. Due to my bad judgement (tossed horrible non-original), I need a seat. Fortunately, I rescued a wheel-less black Fuji, possibly a Royale (no decals, only a head-badge, serial number says 1980), with a suitably torn saddle, so I will be using that, and some other parts (after assigning market value).
I plan to use the mismatched wheels and tires that came with Green Super Course to preserve the budget, they seem to spin nicely.
The steerer tube threads were a bit of a concern. For some reason they are worn flat at the top, near the locknut. It looks like the center-pull brake bracket wore down the threads where I imagine there was once a key-way. Luckily the threads are still good enough to re-install the bearing cup and locknut. I put a file to the bracket, so while though it is not now keyed to the fork, it will slide onto the steerer without binding.
Handlebar tape is torn on right side handlebar flat. I’ll have to use some black electrical tape to reattach together.
Upon close examination, both pulleys on the rear Simplex derailleur are ground and crumbled. I am replacing (have replaced) it with the generic Shimano from the Fuji. Might as well install the front from the Fuji as well.
Initial disassembly of Green Super Course found the obligatory stuck seat post and handlebar stem. I’ll have to clean up the rust. Due to my bad judgement (tossed horrible non-original), I need a seat. Fortunately, I rescued a wheel-less black Fuji, possibly a Royale (no decals, only a head-badge, serial number says 1980), with a suitably torn saddle, so I will be using that, and some other parts (after assigning market value).
I plan to use the mismatched wheels and tires that came with Green Super Course to preserve the budget, they seem to spin nicely.
The steerer tube threads were a bit of a concern. For some reason they are worn flat at the top, near the locknut. It looks like the center-pull brake bracket wore down the threads where I imagine there was once a key-way. Luckily the threads are still good enough to re-install the bearing cup and locknut. I put a file to the bracket, so while though it is not now keyed to the fork, it will slide onto the steerer without binding.
Handlebar tape is torn on right side handlebar flat. I’ll have to use some black electrical tape to reattach together.
Upon close examination, both pulleys on the rear Simplex derailleur are ground and crumbled. I am replacing (have replaced) it with the generic Shimano from the Fuji. Might as well install the front from the Fuji as well.
Last edited by darnet; 06-03-21 at 05:51 PM. Reason: add pics
#323
Newbie
Join Date: Mar 2020
Location: New Hampshire
Posts: 50
Bikes: 4 Raleigh's (1 International, 3 Super Course), 2 Miyata (610, Alumicross), one each Bianchi Eros, Fuji Cross Pro, Lotus Excelle, Paramount Series 7 Carbon,Specialized Sirrus Comp, Trek something mountain bike, Univega Super Strada, Wheeler Tremosinep
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COVID Bike Fleet Story:
I’m almost ashamed to admit that I’ve acquired six (or seven) bikes since early March, 2020. My wife and I went out for breakfast (for the last time until 2021) on March 8, 2020, in a place on the Milford NH Oval. There was an antique shop across the oval, so we dropped in. In the basement I saw a Lotus Excelle in my size. I took some pictures, started reading about that model, and became more interested. I started looking on Craigslist etc to get an idea of what it might actually be worth (even though it was only $75) before I could decide to go back and buy it.
Now, I was hooked on browsing CL (and FB Market). While browsing for Excelles, I saw an interesting listing for a vintage Raleigh. But the listing did not name the model, or even show any decals, it just showed obscure details of the bike, like the fork, lugs, components, seat, color, etc. I had always wanted a vintage Raleigh International from the 70’s, but they had become too collectible for my budget. To me this looked like one. The last day I ever worked in my office, March 11, 2020, I met the guy to look at the bike, and it was, as I suspected, a Raleigh International. It seemed all original (maybe not tires or handlebar tape), a little beat up, and he was asking $155, said he didn’t want to sell it some kid that would turn it into a “fixie.” I had decided if it was an International, I wouldn’t haggle. I have ridden that numerous times, and the Excelle once (yes I bought the Excelle too, the day before all stores closed).
So that was two coronavirus bikes. A Raleigh Super Course was the third.... a CL listing for a frame and fork (with wheels, brakes, and seat), $80. It was the twin or my first road bike, same coffee color and same lugs (Capella). I picked that one up wearing a mask and gloves, alcohol sprayer in hand. Next month or so, another coffee Super Course appeared, completely original, Nervex lugs, $100. I didn't "need" it, why I bought it I don't know.
Fast forward to 2021, when I picked up a "Wheeler Tremosine" very locally for $25. It was posted as "Wheeler Road Bike" and since I live on a Wheeler Road, it was a must. Finally, I found a CL ad for my Clunker Ride bike, a Green Raleigh Super Course, $45. I watched it go unsold for weeks, and finally traveled the hour or so to buy it.
The "Wheeler" Road bike was in far too good condition to qualify as a Clunker, regardless of low price. The International and the 2nd Super Course were above or at the $$ limit, and the 1st Super Course was already built with numerous upgrades. So it was between the Excelle and the Green Super Course. I had to go with the Green Super Course, because it needed TLC, and more importantly it signified the end of COVID.
I’m almost ashamed to admit that I’ve acquired six (or seven) bikes since early March, 2020. My wife and I went out for breakfast (for the last time until 2021) on March 8, 2020, in a place on the Milford NH Oval. There was an antique shop across the oval, so we dropped in. In the basement I saw a Lotus Excelle in my size. I took some pictures, started reading about that model, and became more interested. I started looking on Craigslist etc to get an idea of what it might actually be worth (even though it was only $75) before I could decide to go back and buy it.
Now, I was hooked on browsing CL (and FB Market). While browsing for Excelles, I saw an interesting listing for a vintage Raleigh. But the listing did not name the model, or even show any decals, it just showed obscure details of the bike, like the fork, lugs, components, seat, color, etc. I had always wanted a vintage Raleigh International from the 70’s, but they had become too collectible for my budget. To me this looked like one. The last day I ever worked in my office, March 11, 2020, I met the guy to look at the bike, and it was, as I suspected, a Raleigh International. It seemed all original (maybe not tires or handlebar tape), a little beat up, and he was asking $155, said he didn’t want to sell it some kid that would turn it into a “fixie.” I had decided if it was an International, I wouldn’t haggle. I have ridden that numerous times, and the Excelle once (yes I bought the Excelle too, the day before all stores closed).
So that was two coronavirus bikes. A Raleigh Super Course was the third.... a CL listing for a frame and fork (with wheels, brakes, and seat), $80. It was the twin or my first road bike, same coffee color and same lugs (Capella). I picked that one up wearing a mask and gloves, alcohol sprayer in hand. Next month or so, another coffee Super Course appeared, completely original, Nervex lugs, $100. I didn't "need" it, why I bought it I don't know.
Fast forward to 2021, when I picked up a "Wheeler Tremosine" very locally for $25. It was posted as "Wheeler Road Bike" and since I live on a Wheeler Road, it was a must. Finally, I found a CL ad for my Clunker Ride bike, a Green Raleigh Super Course, $45. I watched it go unsold for weeks, and finally traveled the hour or so to buy it.
The "Wheeler" Road bike was in far too good condition to qualify as a Clunker, regardless of low price. The International and the 2nd Super Course were above or at the $$ limit, and the 1st Super Course was already built with numerous upgrades. So it was between the Excelle and the Green Super Course. I had to go with the Green Super Course, because it needed TLC, and more importantly it signified the end of COVID.
#324
Edumacator
Join Date: Jan 2018
Location: Goose Creek, SC
Posts: 6,777
Bikes: '87 Crestdale, '87 Basso Gap, '92 Rossin Performance EL-OS, 1990 VanTuyl, 1980s Losa, 1985 Trek 670, 1982 AD SLE, 1987 PX10, etc...
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So in a stroke of luck, I seem to have found two 700c Gatorskins among the cluster of stuff I bought from Dominos pizza for $75 (5 Pure fix fixie frames, 10 aero flip flop wheels, 14 tires, 5 racks for pizza and handlebars, stems, etc)...
What is the valuation from the crowd for the wheels and any saddle I might use?
What is the valuation from the crowd for the wheels and any saddle I might use?
__________________
1987 Crest Cannondale, 1987 Basso Gap, 1992 Rossin Performance EL, 1990ish Van Tuyl, 1985 Trek 670, 1982 AD SLE, 2003 Pinarello Surprise, 1990ish MBK Atlantique, 1987 Peugeot Competition, 1987 Nishiki Tri-A, 1981 Faggin, 1996 Cannondale M500, 1984 Mercian, 1982 AD SuperLeicht, 1985 Massi (model unknown), 1988 Daccordi Griffe , 1989 Fauxsin MTB, 1981 Ciocc Mockba, 1992 Bianchi Giro, 1977 Colnago Super
1987 Crest Cannondale, 1987 Basso Gap, 1992 Rossin Performance EL, 1990ish Van Tuyl, 1985 Trek 670, 1982 AD SLE, 2003 Pinarello Surprise, 1990ish MBK Atlantique, 1987 Peugeot Competition, 1987 Nishiki Tri-A, 1981 Faggin, 1996 Cannondale M500, 1984 Mercian, 1982 AD SuperLeicht, 1985 Massi (model unknown), 1988 Daccordi Griffe , 1989 Fauxsin MTB, 1981 Ciocc Mockba, 1992 Bianchi Giro, 1977 Colnago Super
#325
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: SF Bay Area, East bay
Posts: 7,645
Bikes: Miyata 618 GT, Marinoni, Kestral 200 2002 Trek 5200, KHS Flite, Koga Miyata, Schwinn Spitfire 5, Mondia Special, Univega Alpina, Miyata team Ti, Santa Cruz Highball
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So in a stroke of luck, I seem to have found two 700c Gatorskins among the cluster of stuff I bought from Dominos pizza for $75 (5 Pure fix fixie frames, 10 aero flip flop wheels, 14 tires, 5 racks for pizza and handlebars, stems, etc)...
What is the valuation from the crowd for the wheels and any saddle I might use?
What is the valuation from the crowd for the wheels and any saddle I might use?
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