This why I hate threaded headsets
06-08-21, 06:08 PM
#26
Grouchy Old man
Thread Starter
I've had more quill stems than I can remember and only one was frozen. I have a racing jack (for cars) with a long aluminum hollow handle. I put a rod through the stem, heated it with my heat gun, attached my jack handle to it as a long breaker bar and popped it pretty easily.
So really you needed a long breaker bar.
So really you needed a long breaker bar.
06-08-21, 06:09 PM
#27
Grouchy Old man
Thread Starter
What you hate is bad maintenance, not a particular headset style.
I once removed a stuck bottom bracket---I used a breaker bar long enough to bend the handle on my ratchet. Eventually I won .... I took out the bottom bracket and the threads from the shell, but I got that BB out.
I'd have hated the idiot who let the BB get stuck .... if it hadn't had been me, many years earlier, before I knew better.
I once removed a stuck bottom bracket---I used a breaker bar long enough to bend the handle on my ratchet. Eventually I won .... I took out the bottom bracket and the threads from the shell, but I got that BB out.
I'd have hated the idiot who let the BB get stuck .... if it hadn't had been me, many years earlier, before I knew better.
06-08-21, 06:10 PM
#28
Grouchy Old man
Thread Starter
It was a threaded headset with no quill stem. I've removed quill stems without a problem with the exception of one, and that require amputation.
06-08-21, 06:11 PM
#29
Grouchy Old man
Thread Starter
06-08-21, 06:13 PM
#30
Grouchy Old man
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06-08-21, 06:18 PM
#31
Grouchy Old man
Thread Starter
Oddly enough I'm surprised that a painted stem would corrode to the point of seizing. I'd almost place my bets on the stem being slightly oversized, and "persuaded" into the steering tube.
I'm with Terry here, consumer designs that are more forgiving to neglect are better, all other things equal. For one thing, neglect could start at the factory. Does it mean getting rid of the old stuff, or merely treating it with the knowledge and respect for its failure modes? That's an individual judgment call. I'm willing to keep some old bikes despite needing a bit of TLC and care in reassembly, not others. I grease everything.
I'm with Terry here, consumer designs that are more forgiving to neglect are better, all other things equal. For one thing, neglect could start at the factory. Does it mean getting rid of the old stuff, or merely treating it with the knowledge and respect for its failure modes? That's an individual judgment call. I'm willing to keep some old bikes despite needing a bit of TLC and care in reassembly, not others. I grease everything.
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06-08-21, 06:23 PM
#32
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06-08-21, 06:31 PM
#33
Grouchy Old man
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06-08-21, 07:08 PM
#34
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06-08-21, 07:16 PM
#35
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That's a quill stem. Might not have a wedge or bolt left but still a quill stem.
It's the only stem you can use in a threaded fork without an adaptor, which is also a quill. By definition if it goes inside the steerer it's a quill stem.
https://www.parktool.com/blog/repair...on-quill-stems
It's the only stem you can use in a threaded fork without an adaptor, which is also a quill. By definition if it goes inside the steerer it's a quill stem.
https://www.parktool.com/blog/repair...on-quill-stems
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06-08-21, 07:21 PM
#36
Clark W. Griswold
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TBH I don't think it's that. The bike is 2009 model, and the person I bought it from, didn't seem very bright...then again most people don't work on their bikes or have them serviced. I event didn't think it was that big of a deal, but then I start doing amputations on bike parts, and that changed my mind very fast. Galvanic corrosion is real. They think that a bike will never break down. It goes the same for computers. They don't expect a PC to break down or have software problems, that just come out of the blue.
06-09-21, 06:20 AM
#38
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06-09-21, 07:32 AM
#39
Grouchy Old man
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06-09-21, 07:33 AM
#40
Grouchy Old man
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This bike came from Bikes Direct, and the induhvidaul who had it, didn't set it properly.
06-09-21, 01:11 PM
#41
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I bought a vintage BMX where the previous owner couldn't get the old stem out and cut it off like this. I had to take it to a mechanics shop and they used a hydraulic press to get it out.
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06-09-21, 07:14 PM
#42
Clark W. Griswold
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In some situations yes, if the seatpost or stem is not installed in the bike you would grease but if the bike is sold purely online from Jeff Bezos' Amazon and BD that is something that probably should be done factory side as most people buying those things wouldn't think about grease if it smacked them in the face.
06-10-21, 06:19 AM
#43
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The guys over in the c&v subforum hardly ever experience a corrosion issue with a threaded headset. It's usually a stem or seatpost that they find stuck on an old bike new to their stable.
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06-10-21, 10:50 AM
#44
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Those parts may seize up, but they:
1. do not have salty water collection and holding built into their design
2. are not a huge hassle* to remove and replace in the rare case where they do seize up
(*) - A seized threaded bottom bracket can be a hassle (use press fit). As can a seat post (avoid metal post in metal frame).
1. do not have salty water collection and holding built into their design
2. are not a huge hassle* to remove and replace in the rare case where they do seize up
(*) - A seized threaded bottom bracket can be a hassle (use press fit). As can a seat post (avoid metal post in metal frame).
-Problems from poor maintenance aren’t my fault.
-Press fit is better, especially if you don’t maintain your bike.
-I need carbon fiber (or wood) seat posts on all my bikes
Pass the bong bro, you’re hogging the good stuff.
06-10-21, 12:44 PM
#45
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Given the techniques you have used to date, I am a bit cautious about this suggestion, but here goes. I have done this with thin walled tubing on non-bike applications. The key is working in tiny increments.
1. Put Kroil or penetrating oil down the tube from the fork crown. Let sit overnight.
2. Heat with hairdryer and put more in.
3. Thread a proper sized nut (same identical thread as the steerer or the headset nut) onto the oiled or greased steerer as far up as it will go. This will serve as both thread protection and also when removed after the following steps ensure the threads are clean and the tube is round.
4. With threaded end on a pine wood block, put a dowel down the steerer tube from the fork end and tap (NOT wail on it) with a dead blow or rubber mallet.
5. If no movement (remember as it is on a wooden block (and you cut it off even) it will not pound out, you are looking to dislodge it or break the bond, not remove it), proceed
6. Put pine wood blocks onto your bench vise to protect the remaining exposed threads, and LIGHTLY close the vice on the threaded portion. TIghten until you feel slight resistance or no more than about 1/16th (or the distance between 1:00 o'clock to 2:00) of a turn and release. You should feel minimal resistance, and do NOT want to actually bend the tube. You are looking to break the bonding from the galvanic interactions.
7. Rotate the fork 90 degrees and repeat. GENTLY as you no not want to damage the threads or ovalize the steerer. Then repeat Steps 1-3.
8. Repeat step 6. If that does not work, then repeat Steps 6-7 at 45 degrees from the earlier attempt cycle.
9. If you have dislodged it, finally relube the exposed steerer thread and remove the nut, which if you did the rest carefully should clean the threads and ensure the tube is round.
If that all fails go to the Soma or Allcity website and buy a new 1" threaded fork. They used to have them available.
1. Put Kroil or penetrating oil down the tube from the fork crown. Let sit overnight.
2. Heat with hairdryer and put more in.
3. Thread a proper sized nut (same identical thread as the steerer or the headset nut) onto the oiled or greased steerer as far up as it will go. This will serve as both thread protection and also when removed after the following steps ensure the threads are clean and the tube is round.
4. With threaded end on a pine wood block, put a dowel down the steerer tube from the fork end and tap (NOT wail on it) with a dead blow or rubber mallet.
5. If no movement (remember as it is on a wooden block (and you cut it off even) it will not pound out, you are looking to dislodge it or break the bond, not remove it), proceed
6. Put pine wood blocks onto your bench vise to protect the remaining exposed threads, and LIGHTLY close the vice on the threaded portion. TIghten until you feel slight resistance or no more than about 1/16th (or the distance between 1:00 o'clock to 2:00) of a turn and release. You should feel minimal resistance, and do NOT want to actually bend the tube. You are looking to break the bonding from the galvanic interactions.
7. Rotate the fork 90 degrees and repeat. GENTLY as you no not want to damage the threads or ovalize the steerer. Then repeat Steps 1-3.
8. Repeat step 6. If that does not work, then repeat Steps 6-7 at 45 degrees from the earlier attempt cycle.
9. If you have dislodged it, finally relube the exposed steerer thread and remove the nut, which if you did the rest carefully should clean the threads and ensure the tube is round.
If that all fails go to the Soma or Allcity website and buy a new 1" threaded fork. They used to have them available.
06-10-21, 06:10 PM
#46
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Those parts may seize up, but they:
1. do not have salty water collection and holding built into their design
2. are not a huge hassle* to remove and replace in the rare case where they do seize up
(*) - A seized threaded bottom bracket can be a hassle (use press fit). As can a seat post (avoid metal post in metal frame).
1. do not have salty water collection and holding built into their design
2. are not a huge hassle* to remove and replace in the rare case where they do seize up
(*) - A seized threaded bottom bracket can be a hassle (use press fit). As can a seat post (avoid metal post in metal frame).
True, if you are avoiding galvanic corrosion. Thermoplastic press-fit cups do not seize up.
That's certainly one option. As long as you avoid contacting dissimilar metals, you do you. Materials 101.
Pass the bong bro, you’re hogging the good stuff.
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06-10-21, 06:45 PM
#47
Grouchy Old man
Thread Starter
06-10-21, 06:51 PM
#48
Grouchy Old man
Thread Starter
In some situations yes, if the seatpost or stem is not installed in the bike you would grease but if the bike is sold purely online from Jeff Bezos' Amazon and BD that is something that probably should be done factory side as most people buying those things wouldn't think about grease if it smacked them in the face.
06-10-21, 06:53 PM
#49
Grouchy Old man
Thread Starter
06-10-21, 06:55 PM
#50
Grouchy Old man
Thread Starter
Well engineered parts can certainly function without proper maintenance for a long time, however an ouch prevention is worth more than a pound of cure.
