Road Fan

I have a 1982 720, also a grail. My plan for this is to get it aligned and cold-set for 130 mm, and build it for 700.

balto charlie

Will do, Hopefully we can all put our heads together. The original brakes looked very close, but no cigar.

The Golden Boy 

I'm using Suntour XC Pro brakes.

I've seen Shimano XT MC-70 and M732 brakes both working with the pads at acceptable angles. I was very surprised to see that XTR M900 brakes did not work.

1985 Trek 720 with XC Pro brakes:
IMG_0551 by Dave The Golden Boy, on Flickr

720FrontRack by Dave The Golden Boy, on Flickr

balto charlie

Funny you mentioned them. I have a set on my Trek 990 rigid mnt bike. One of the springs broke on the front brake, I couldn't find a replacement so I used a set of Tektro (don't remember which model) which worked well. Not as cool looking but good at stopping. I'll see if I can locate which model.

balto charlie

These are the brakes, Tektro CR720. Might see if I can swap them.

bikemig 

i really like the tektro cr720s but I don’t think they’ll work on the ops trek 720

The Golden Boy 

The CR 720s are kind of notorious for not working on older bikes with narrower distances between the posts.

Most modern brakes are designed around a modern standard of much wider distances between canti posts and don’t have the adjustability to work, even with 27s.

badger_biker 

I’ll play with the straddle cable lengths and height of the cable stop later and I appreciate the other model suggestions.

I started on on the drive train yesterday. The XT RD body arm extended too close to the cassette with the wheel all the way back in the dropout so for the first time in my life I’m actually making use of the micro adjusters. The XCM FD does not swing out far enough even though my crank is very snug to the frame. I tried a STX and that also didn’t have enough range. I think I’ll hunt down and buy a Suntour XCD since that is what is on my Expedition with the same crank and it works great. Otherwise probably an older Deore usually works on nearly anything. Any other suggestions for a 720?

bikemig 

With 18 inch chainstays, you might as well use the micro adjusters. It’s not like you’re worried about your feet hitting the panniers.I’m surprised you’re having issues with a classic touring derailleur. A sun tour Xc sport can handle a lot of chain. So can a huret duopar and it’s not a bad derailleur but you do have to ease up when shifting it.

jjhabbs 

A 720 is a must have for any collection. Probably the most comfortable touring bike on the planet. Love the long wheelbase and stays. Laidback headtube. I'm having a hard time finding one in a 24inch in good shape. GREAT bike!

JJ

balto charlie

That's right. You jogged my memory, hard to do these days I bought the Tektro to replace my brakes on my Miyata 1000. The brakes work well with thin pads on the rear, they did not work on the front. Thus I had an extra set and put it on my Trek 990.

The Golden Boy 

I've tried BUNCHES of different derailleurs on my 720- all friction until I set it up with it's current drivetrain.

My absolute favorite would be the Suntour XC 3 pulley (that's plain ol' "XC" not XC Sport or anything... just XC). It shifted marvelously, it handles tons of chain, Pastor Bob got it to take a 38T cog, it looked cool, and it's the ONLY derailleur or individual bike part that got a comment from anyone out in the wild. (not in a bike shop).

Otherwise, Suntour XC Pro, Shimano XT M735, Suntour V GT-Luxe ... those are the ones that stand out to me.

The ones I didn't like were Suntour Mountech 2nd gen (it was OK, but a bit sloppy- it was a really long cage) and Suntour Cyclone GT and Cyclone MII GT. There was nothing really wrong with the Cyclones- they just seemed so gracile and dainty on that bike- but in my mind that equated to "fragile." I did not like the Duopar. I know there's people that have ridden more miles than I could ever dream on Duopars- but I've only had trouble with the two I have.

As far as front derailleur... MOUNTECH. Most badass awesome FD ever made. Way behind that- XT M735. Sachs/Huret Pilot. Simplex Super LJ.

badger_biker 

I got my shifting figured out and got in a short check out ride today. Sweet handling bike that is comfortable and cuts through the air quite well. It weighs in at 25 lbs without the rear rack. It will be a fun one for some longer rides.



The Technomic looks crazy high but I’m getting old and like the height. May work them down later.

I hoped to use my Acorn seat bag but the Pro doesn’t have any loops☹️

Love the vintage decals on it.

With the rear rack

My shifting issues were probably bar end set up related but I wound up buying a NOS XCD FD and using it. Shifts great and as a bonus the clamp pretty much matches the frame.

polymorphself 

FWIW, they make adapters for this.

badger_biker 

Thanks. I have a new looking B17N imperial model I can swap but I think I like the aged patina look for this bike.

The Golden Boy 

I always wonder how much difference there is in the tubing/ride of the 82/83 720s and the 84/85 720s.

My Technomic looks like it's dangerous high- but mine's actually slammed. Of course, I have a 21' bike with a short head tube- so even slammed, it looks super out there.

Was it a matter of setting it up with the bar end in the middle of the range and then setting the chain up on the middle ring?

badger_biker 

l’m not aware of any differences in the tubing or geometry between those years models but I can’t imagine a more forgiving ride than this one has. I only wish I could take advantage of the extra 1 1/2 cm in wheelbase length I’m losing by having to set the rear wheel forward in the dropouts.


Slid forward to avoid the chain interfering with the RD inner arm.

The locking ring pieces of the shift levers got moved around when I had the screw out so I could set the levers inside the bar ends. I made the mistake of trying to get them set up with the notches locked when the levers were in the full down positions. Finally realized you have to start at the full up position or you don’t get enough cable movement to move the derailleurs their full range. It shifts like a dream now. I really like the XT in the rear. It’s just so positive and right on with every shift.

The Golden Boy 

I wouldn't worry about it- it's still a cm or so longer than most any other tourer.

rhm

I have an '82 and I would gladly swap it for an '84. I would have bought an '84 if they were available when I got mine, but (alas) in the spring of 1983 you could get an '82 but the '84's were not available. Unfair as that may be, that is the hand I was dealt.

Whatever. Here's the bike and me in South Carolina, where I went to see the eclipse a few years ago. The frame has been powder coated ( I never did like the original color).

Road Fan

Rudi, that's a great pic!

So '82 versus '84: I'm assuming the main functional difference is the braze-ons for canti brakes? My frame needs alignment and refinishing, and I might build it up 650b. I'd probably go for center-pull braze-ons, a front-derailleur braze-on, cold-setting to 130 mm, and ... attachments to facilitate a front rack, a rear saddle-bag support, and light attachments. I'd probably go with a hub dyno or a modern rim dyno.

What other advantages of the 1984 frame are important to you?

rhm

Just the brake bosses. Before I had mine powder coated I seriously considered all the options you mention. I decided, in the end, that there were no modifications to the frame that would really make a difference, so I didn't bother. I have the original Jim Blackburn racks that the frame was supposedly built for (which is strange, since they don't fit very well), to which I added a lowrider rack for front panniers. The bike is set up for old school bike touring, as designed, and I figured there wasn't much advantage to changing that.

bikemig 

AFAIK, the geometry is the same. The differences are (which both of you know) that the '82 was set up for caliper brakes and 700c wheels whereas the 83s and laters were built around 27 inch wheels and cantilevers.

But there is a tubing difference. The '84 720 spec'd 531 ST for the main triangle which would have made the bike a bit stiffer. I toured across the US on a '83 720 and thought the ride was truly excellent particularly under a load.

bikemig 

To my mind, the advantage of the '82 (besides coming in a lovely brown that rhm despises, ) is the ease of doing a 650b conversion. I find that 700 x 30c-32c is just about tops on the '83 with fenders. A touring bike deserves at least 38c tires, IMO. This is mine with 700c wheels. I have it set up with fenders currently. Now I just need to build up some 650b wheels. I have a set of velo orange 650b rims and a pair of dia compe 750 brakes for the conversion. I may be tempted to set this at 130 OLD though to eke out some more gears and go indexing.

balto charlie

Great job @ badger_biker

For those looking for a similar Trek, here's one ready to ride. Not mine but looks in great shape.

https://seattle.craigslist.org/see/b...353488632.html

badger_biker 

Thanks and again a big thank you to bikemig for bringing the frame to my attention and being willing to accommodate the pick up during COVID.

Interesting on the pics in the link how the cables were set up under the BB. I wound up buying a Campy cable guide and bypassing the frame grooves. It leaves my cables a bit skewed going down the down tube but everything works fine.