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What have you been wrenching on lately?

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What have you been wrenching on lately?

Old 07-31-21, 06:35 PM
  #4426  
hazetguy 
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Decided to try something new. I've been picking up Sachs ARIS freewheels whenever they show up at the local bike thrift store. I got one the other day that looks brand new, but feels a bit gummed up. I did a bunch of 'internet research' to see how to go through these, and they looked rather simple compared to some other freewheels. So I bought a chain whip and another Sachs freewheel at the thrift store today, made a freewheel vise out of a 2x4, some wood screws and flat washers, and went to town on the dirtiest one. I figured if I messed up the ugliest one, there was no loss, and I could learn from any mistakes. Everything cleaned up well, looked good inside, and went back together very smoothly.
Now it's time to figure out some cogs/gearing that will help me in the hills around here, and make a couple "custom" freewheels.

Disassembled, ready for cleaning and inspection.


Back together, feels super smooth.
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Old 08-01-21, 05:02 AM
  #4427  
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^^^^^^ Well done. I'm quite pleased that FWs no longer intimidate me. They're easy and quite satisfying when you restore them. I've found that actual wear is from use is rare. It's grit, ancient dried grease and a bit of water that's the problem, easily resolved. If done carefully, they don't even "asplode". BTW, I like those caged bearing assemblies. Nice design.
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Old 08-01-21, 04:20 PM
  #4428  
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Working on a 930, but, Im too new to post pics yet. Cmon 10!
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Old 08-02-21, 12:08 PM
  #4429  
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Originally Posted by Mr. 66 View Post
A PX10 get some cleansing...

Paint looks pretty good. I found some very light wet sanding (1500-2000 grit) can remove the yellowing and brighten the white. It's usually worse around the bottom bracket.
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Old 08-02-21, 12:31 PM
  #4430  
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I try not to duplicate info but since I am not getting much response or comment, here it is:
Pinarello Montello component morphing - Bike Forums
In the process of converting from 2x8 to 3x8 on the Montello.
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Old 08-02-21, 04:50 PM
  #4431  
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Did some preliminary fitting of a bike bag today so I can take it on the train in a couple of weeks time on a tour along the French Côte d'Azur.
Still needs a bit of tweaking here and there but this should definitely work.


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Old 08-02-21, 06:03 PM
  #4432  
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For the first 5 or 10 minutes after I hopped on the Miyata, it felt like the bars were more narrow than I'm used to. They were 38cm, and I've 38s on other bikes, so I can't explain that weird feeling for the first few minutes. I finally bit the bullet and changed out the original 3ttt bars for some Cinelli 64-40s after I decided to also replace the cotton with Fizik tape.



That's sort of difficult work. It's not so straightforward like rebuilding a bb, overhauling a pedal or truing a wheel. It takes me quite a while to get the brake levers just right and even longer to tape the bars perfectly and add finishing tape. I've always found these "small" jobs can be frustrating.

Fizik now has their white colored logo on one side of this tape, which I can hide pretty easily with the wrap until I do a figure-8 around the lever. So there was one little emblem showing on the outside of each lever. I wasn't too worried about it. A little acetone took care of that, although it left behind a little smudge.

But the first ride today told me it was all worth it. My hands thank me. The cushy 2mm microtex tape feels almost like the tires got a little fatter without losing that precise road feeling I'm used to. But at the same time, I do think I've lost that more vintage look and feel of the cotton. It's definitely a trade-off.



The new Cinelli stem's clamp bolt was also a little long, like three threads were showing, which bugged me. I tried a pipe cutter first, and that clearly wasn't going to work with the threads on there. So I used a hand clamp and took a hacksaw to it. I was a little worried I didn't have anything to clean up the threads, without a nut in my bin of the same size. Afterwards, I used an iron file on the end, and maybe I took a bit too much off. But now I can sleep.

Last edited by SurferRosa; 08-22-21 at 12:26 PM.
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Old 08-03-21, 09:02 AM
  #4433  
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Originally Posted by SurferRosa View Post
Paint looks pretty good. I found some very light wet sanding (1500-2000 grit) can remove the yellowing and brighten the white. It's usually worse around the bottom bracket.
Thanks, hopefully I can find some parts, and a crank puller, to get it back on the road relatively soon.
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Old 08-04-21, 09:56 PM
  #4434  
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You get Fizik! And you get Fizik! And you ...


.
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Old 08-05-21, 06:46 AM
  #4435  
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I just finished a 1980s Cannondale rigid fork, hardtail MTB 3.0 series for a client. They had been "gifted" this one from a neighbor in FL, and brought it back to VA for me to fix up. It had serious corrosion within the BB shell, a rusted/frozen chain, and cable housings that had collapsed under the UV and humidity of FL. The BB spindle was pitted in the bearing tracks and had to be tossed. I was able to get this back up and running for the wife, with a shorter reach stem and chopped bars. I buffed up the paint, trued the rims and did a general cleaning. The wheels have sealed bearing hubs that remained smooth, so I didn't touch them.

It rides surprisingly well on 2.25" tires at lower pressure. Terrific bike, it'll be perfect for her to ride the C&O canal tow path or other local cinder/dirt multi-use trails.

Equipped with 3x6 SIS thumbies!

Last edited by Phil_gretz; 08-05-21 at 06:49 AM.
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Old 08-05-21, 07:12 AM
  #4436  
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Completed the morph on the Pinarello to 3x8 and took it out for a test ride in the neighborhood. It works. I am happy and am looking forward to trying it out on some hills.
@Roger M - Interesting project for the tandem mount. How much of what you are using is from Yakima?
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Old 08-05-21, 07:23 AM
  #4437  
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I saw a lot of great steel MTB's of this era on my ride of the full length of the GAP to C&O two weeks ago, very cool! Lot's of these kicking around Philly as well, such great city bikes!
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Old 08-05-21, 08:59 AM
  #4438  
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Originally Posted by SJX426 View Post
Completed the morph on the Pinarello to 3x8 and took it out for a test ride in the neighborhood. It works. I am happy and am looking forward to trying it out on some hills.
@Roger M - Interesting project for the tandem mount. How much of what you are using is from Yakima?
Just the Sidewinder tandem mount is from Yakima. I used to have one of their old tandem mounts, without the swing out feature. It would be better for this application, cutting a few more inches off the length. Unfortunately I sold it years ago.



Just for reference and for those questioning the width, here's some pictures of it mounted.




Last edited by Roger M; 08-05-21 at 04:43 PM.
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Old 08-05-21, 09:16 AM
  #4439  
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I pulled my ‘82 Mercian Colorado off the pegs it has called home for several years. A recent interest in 80s Shimano indexing developed from the last two Clunker Challenge bikes led me to reading, which led me to realize the shifting issue on this bike was the Dura-Ace rear derailleur, which won’t play nice with less expensive Shimano parts. I wound up taking the Sachs New Success off the ‘71 Mercian KOM I am building for my son. Sure enough, a little fiddling with the barrel adjuster and it works beautifully with the indexing 600 dot shifters.





Before I fitted the Sachs mech I dug put a 300EX Exage and tried it. It worked nicely, but I think it’s a better match for the MicroNew brifters on Eli’s green machine. All that’s left to do for now is to polish up the Sugino 165 cranks and wait for the new BB to arrive.




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Old 08-05-21, 02:48 PM
  #4440  
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I have never been particularly fond of the Universal Super 68 brakes my ‘73 Falcon came with so I “upgraded” to some Modolo brakes since I know I like how they feel and work. Got a pair of NOS Corsa levers and very clean Flash calipers. I know it’s not the best but I wanted to keep them silver and if they’re a bit heavier or not as beautifully polished as the more high end models it’s Ok, I know they will work about the same.

Now just waiting on Amazon to deliver the gel pads for the bars so I can wrap the new cork tape and take it out!

*I know it’s time for new pads, these have about 700 miles on them with the Universals, but I wasn’t about to use the rock hard Modolo pads. A set of Kool Stop Modolo inserts are on the way.




The old Universal Super 68 which look good but aren’t great imo.

New Modolo Flash calipers


NOS Modolo Corsa levers
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Old 08-05-21, 02:58 PM
  #4441  
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I love my Universal 68s but different strokes, etc.
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Old 08-05-21, 04:21 PM
  #4442  
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Last winter when I rehabilitated my Fuji TS III wanted to try just a front rack but they are quite rare and expensive (and I did not know if I really wanted one). so I fabricated a front rack for it out of a rear rack. Worked just fine but I've thought it was not quite right. One thing was that I made the mistake of fitting it so the rear rack stay was vertical which meant the top of the rack was not quite parallel to the top tube. And one of the mounting eyes was damaged so it's integrity was questionable. So I'm making another one and have been "wrenching" on that. Actually cutting, bending, measuring, fabricating.




The one I made last winter is shown on the Fuji now. The black one on the box is much like what the new one started as. The gray primer'd one is the new one, cut down to size and bent. I started by cutting off the very end then straightening out the two rods and the center tray. Turns out I did not need to as they were eventually cut off but my method helped me sneak up on a solution. I then held the fresh cut rack beside the silver one and moved it back and forth to confirm level and where I wanted the new bends to be. Then I bent the side rods and the tray. How nice to have a good vice and a few other things to bend with. I could not make a production run the way it did it but it worked. No cracked aluminum. I then cut the rods and tray to their current length and filed everytihing smooth. Then sanded the whole shebang and prep'd for paint. The Ace "Chrome Aluminum" enamel is what worked just fine for the first rack and what I'll use this time. As its summer and the loft gets nice and warm/hot, I'll get this painted then leave it hanging in the loft for a month or so. I'm in no hurry. When it is installed it will get a wood rod mounted across the cut ends, like the black one on the Fuji now but gloss varnished cedar.

Oh, that steel thing in front is a spindle from a scrap pedal. The steel is very hard and these make good nail sets/drive punches for things. Tough. I wire brushed it clean and one thin coat of boiled linseed oil. Another useful tool.
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Old 08-05-21, 04:40 PM
  #4443  
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Old 08-05-21, 04:43 PM
  #4444  
Eric F
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Current project is the rebuild of a 2001 Colnago frame that has just returned to me after many years of it being in the hands of others (more about it here... https://www.bikeforums.net/classic-v...lnago-vip.html )


This thing is constantly getting tweaks. Latest was a new bar and stem. Next is probably new cranks and a narrow-wide chainring.


On the back burner is a Bianchi Eros that is getting a flat-bar 1x8 conversion. There's a good chance this could end up as my daughter's college campus commuter in about 12 months.
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Old 08-05-21, 07:37 PM
  #4445  
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Just finished up this 1985 Ross Signature 294S full Campy. Restored, but all original parts except the ones that did not age well.

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Old 08-05-21, 07:44 PM
  #4446  
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^ Sweet pedals!
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Old 08-05-21, 08:35 PM
  #4447  
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Originally Posted by SurferRosa View Post
^ Sweet pedals!
They are the original pedals and the straps are still in like new condition.
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Old 08-05-21, 09:29 PM
  #4448  
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I've been working on this Rossi since the spring. Still a ways to go, but some new paint and cleaning up the parts have made a big difference already.
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Old 08-06-21, 12:10 PM
  #4449  
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Originally Posted by Phil_gretz View Post
I just finished a 1980s Cannondale rigid fork, hardtail MTB 3.0 series for a client. They had been "gifted" this one from a neighbor in FL, and brought it back to VA for me to fix up. It had serious corrosion within the BB shell, a rusted/frozen chain, and cable housings that had collapsed under the UV and humidity of FL. The BB spindle was pitted in the bearing tracks and had to be tossed. I was able to get this back up and running for the wife, with a shorter reach stem and chopped bars. I buffed up the paint, trued the rims and did a general cleaning. The wheels have sealed bearing hubs that remained smooth, so I didn't touch them.

It rides surprisingly well on 2.25" tires at lower pressure. Terrific bike, it'll be perfect for her to ride the C&O canal tow path or other local cinder/dirt multi-use trails.

Equipped with 3x6 SIS thumbies!
Does anyone know where the serial number can be found? I see a P F stamped in the rear NDS dropout, but that's it. Thanks. Phil

There's a tiny cable guide beneath the BB shell, but it's really small.
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Old 08-06-21, 06:59 PM
  #4450  
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Re-attached saddle top layer

This Cool Gear ‘The Seat’ I have owned since it was new - mid-to-late 70’s. And it’s the second time it has needed the top layer re-attached. Years ago I used contact cement and over time the edges peeled up again. When it happened then, I replaced it and just set it aside.

The hardened adhesive took a lot of scraping to remove.



Cool Gear saddle’s top layer under side with dried up contact cement.

This time I used a material meant for shoe repair. Below it’s taped for the overnight curing time.

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