Any reason not to get the S-Works Tarmac SL7?
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Any reason not to get the S-Works Tarmac SL7?
I found a new Tarmac S-Works SL7 in my size and in green. Any reason not to get it? I don't know much about Specialized or their manufacturing processes. I was considering a Cervelo S5 but steerer tube issues, and the Factor Ostro VAM also has some steerer issues as well. For the price of these bikes I want something solid without engineering snafus. Thoughts?
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If you can afford it, it’s perfect for you. Specialized are awesome, no doubt, and have a much richer and more substantial heritage than either Cervelo or Factor.
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The source of the problem has been identified by Factor, and the solution is pretty straightforward. It shouldn't be an issue with a new bike.
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If you live in NorCal, the main argument to not get a Tarmac is that they’re too popular.
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If my fifteen year old Tarmac is anything to go by, they seem to err on the side of caution - 56cm carbon frame weighs 1.2kg, and the fork weighed 600g! Probably good for a 150kg rider...
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Sheldon Brown's bike info ~~~ Park Tools repair help
Half-step triple, using double gear ~~~ 6400 STI rebuild walkthrough ~~~ Want 8/9/10s @126mm OLD? OCR. ~~~ Shimano cassette body overhaul ~~~ Ergopower Escape wear repair ~~~ PSA: drivetrain wear
List of US/Canada bike co-ops ~~~ Global list
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There was plenty of room for improvement in that regard!
Scored my old banger for $0 cause it has an impact crack just above the FD which hasn't mattered a damn. Got the porker down to to 6.7kg, IIRC
Scored my old banger for $0 cause it has an impact crack just above the FD which hasn't mattered a damn. Got the porker down to to 6.7kg, IIRC
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Sheldon Brown's bike info ~~~ Park Tools repair help
Half-step triple, using double gear ~~~ 6400 STI rebuild walkthrough ~~~ Want 8/9/10s @126mm OLD? OCR. ~~~ Shimano cassette body overhaul ~~~ Ergopower Escape wear repair ~~~ PSA: drivetrain wear
List of US/Canada bike co-ops ~~~ Global list
Sheldon Brown's bike info ~~~ Park Tools repair help
Half-step triple, using double gear ~~~ 6400 STI rebuild walkthrough ~~~ Want 8/9/10s @126mm OLD? OCR. ~~~ Shimano cassette body overhaul ~~~ Ergopower Escape wear repair ~~~ PSA: drivetrain wear
List of US/Canada bike co-ops ~~~ Global list
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I noticed that the wheels are not tubeless compatible - what a bummer. Why would they do that? Optimize the bike for watt savings everywhere and lose a few watts with no tubeless option?
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Proper threaded bottom bracket.
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I found a new Tarmac S-Works SL7 in my size and in green. Any reason not to get it? I don't know much about Specialized or their manufacturing processes. I was considering a Cervelo S5 but steerer tube issues, and the Factor Ostro VAM also has some steerer issues as well. For the price of these bikes I want something solid without engineering snafus. Thoughts?
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You could easily sell the stock Rovals and replace them with the wheels of your choice. Or just ride them tubed. While I ride tubeless, I recognize there are drawbacks day to day.
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It would be annoying having to sell the wheels on a brand new bike though. It would certainly put me off if I was looking for a tie-breaker between 2 bikes. If I ran them with tubes I would be cursing every time I had a flat!
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I only buy frames so every component can be my favorite one. I haven't bought a prebuilt bike since 1991.
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Don't spend your fortune on a bike and you'll be able to get something else if it turns out you chose poorly. My Specialized Tarmac Comp with Di2 is a very fun bike for me to ride. But if the S-works is pocket change, then go for it.
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The gearing is a bit tall if you are a mere mortal and live in a hilly area, at least for DA model. For the SRAM one, other riders will laugh and point behind your back for riding that SRAM junk.
The seat post clamp is fussy and calls for a special seminar in it's use.
Integrated bar/stem is more complex to set up or change.
The seat post clamp is fussy and calls for a special seminar in it's use.
Integrated bar/stem is more complex to set up or change.
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#18
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I built up two bikes with Force AXS last July, after a year on Campy chorus 12 speed. I can’t say enough good things about the performance of the drivetrains. They're as quiet as you'll find. The shifting is perfect and easy to setup. I don't use SRAM cranks though. I first used my existing Campy chorus 48/32 cranks. Later I switched to Shimano grx 46/30 cranks and two new Cinelli superstar disc frames that I picked up for $1000 each, brand new. Most recently I'm using grx 48/31 cranks and longer 175mm crank arms. With a 10-36 cassette I get the same top gear as a 53/11, plus the really low 31/36. No chain drops with any of those six cranks.
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#20
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Kimmo, I had a 2006 Gerolsteiner Swerks Tarmac, I loved that bike so much I put D/A DI2 on it. A year and a half ago I found what must have been the last of the rim brake S-works Tarmacs in a color that I could live with (chamelion). The ride is much softer with the dropped seat stays and built up weightweenie it really jumps when you stomp and it feel like if you want to go faster just grab another gear and push without that much more force. It's very slippery with Boyd 60's. Both bikes built at a fraction of retail.
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According to Roval, the greater (compression) force put on a rim by a tubeless tyre requires extra material, “and that extra mass would have outweighed the benefits of tubeless tires”. As a result, Roval’s decision equates to lighter wheelsets.
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If you're not either pinch-limited on low-end PSI (in which case you should probably be running wider tires regardless), flying extremely close to the sun by running a tubeless setup dry, or being forced to use beefy tubed tires due to pinhole risks like goatheads, latex tubes are just as fast as tubeless.
#24
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The Tarmac is a great bike, but to me the SWorks premium makes absolutely no sense from a cost/performance perspective. Thousands of dollars for a slightly lighter frame and a different logo on the stem. Also, at this price range you could get something far more interesting from a custom builder. Again, the SWorks Tarmac is clearly terrific but they're also very common. Lastly, if you can hold out for six months (ish) you will almost certainly be able to get a better deal.
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