Cyclist0108

@MikeOK I don't have the bluetooth unit and now I feel justified in that decision. I've left the settings and the firmware alone since 2015 (which took some restraint, because I obsessively update everything else). It shifts as if I had mechanical shifting, and I now have both non-Shimano crank and in one case cassette sizes, so I feel your pain, but took the coward's way out.

Also, I haven't yet tried to re-center the derailleur adjustment frame-of-referece. I'll give it a go.

MikeOK

My bike now shifts down the front derailleur only when it is going to the big cog from the second. I've tried everything I can imagine and I can't get it to change. I can build a file that lets me move my shift point to a smaller cog but on the page where you drag and drop your file to S1,S2 I get an error message. I even tried multiple different gear selections by lying to it and it won't let me use them.

MikeOK

@Steve B. Yes I should have read Tim's post closer before I paired my iPad. As soon as I paired it the first time it went straight to updating the wireless unit firmware, I didn't even have the option to do it or not. I bricked it just like Tim's post said it would. So take heed everyone, make sure you update everything with a pc before you pair to your devices via Bluetooth.

Steve B.

Well, this stuff can be hard to troubleshoot over a forum as we aren’t there to observe. Here’s (what little) I know and suspect. It sounds like it’s in one of the Synchro modes, thus the auto shift. As well, Shimano locks out the 2 smallest cogs on a lot of cassette and crank choices. I think what you need to do is set to a dummy crank of 53/39, then a 12-25 cassette, then set Gear Position to off, or not set. Then run the system in manual mode and it should allow you to use every cog both rings. Gear Position seems to be a legacy function from the mt. bike groups to deal with chain length and derailer wrap capability.

I can understand the frustration as it’s an entirely new way to deal with shifting issues and there are pitfalls for sure. Shimano as well is playing nanny state with its control over many functions (IMO), right down to discontinuing my favorite 11 spd. casssette, the 11-23.p, which doesn’t show up as a cassette choice in E-Tube. I ended up with 14-28 to get the gearing I wanted, which ran me $70 I didn’t want or need to spend.

Steve B.

As comment on BT E-Tube software and iPhone, it is possible to not have E-Tube automatically update when you connect. When you establish a connection, the phone app will likely tell you there’s new software and will automatically start the update. Immediately press the X cancel button. This stops the update and allows the app to the connect to change settings, etc....

bostongarden

Resurrecting this thread as it seems most appropriate for my question on Di2 wiring.
Some background in brief. I used to ride a 2013 Cannondale System Six HiMod Evo electronic only frame -- which has no separate "trap" door or the like for accessing anything internally -- with 6870. I had the B junction in front of the bb shell. Early on, something was amiss with the connection, so I had to tap out 1 side of my Chris King pf30 bottom bracket, remove the sleeve, fish out the B junction as part of my diagnosis and fix of the situation.

I now ride a Parlee Altum which has a "trap door" so I can easily access the Di2 system without removing the bottom bracket. I moved the 6870 items over to the Parlee

Now, I am building up the old Cdale for one of my sons, and I'll install 6870 on it. Although the likelihood may be low of having something going awry so I need access to the B junction box and various wires, I want to do my install such that I could do this without having to tap out part of the bottom bracket after I install it.

Below is my plan, and I am wondering if there is a flaw in it that I might be missing.
I am going to place the B junction in the seat tube, and have long enough wires such that if I need to access the B junction, I'd simply pull out the seatpost, and pull up the wires and the B junction box.
In order to do this, I'd run:
1000mm from the rear der to B junction (yes, there would be lots of slack, but, if I need to ever pull the B junction up via the seat tube, the slack will allow me to pull B junction up and out of seat tube without losing contact with any wires);
1400mm from A junction (at stem) to B junction (again, lots of slack, but, if I need to ever pull the B junction up via the seat tube, the slack will allow me to pull B junction up and out of seat tube without losing contact with any wires)
650mm or 700mm for front der to B junction (yup, lots of slack for same purpose as noted with 1000mm and 1400mm);
300mm for internal battery to B junction.

My key assumption/belief is that I'll have enough space below the B junction placement in the seat tube for all of the slack. I'm guessing others have done this. Any flaw to this? Am I missing something key in my approach? Thank you.

(And I already bought all the 6870 parts, so, I'm not going to use wireless Sram AXS, although, I see a great deal at ProsCloset on it now, after acquiring all the various 6870 bits over time at good prices!!! Yes, the Sram system would have solved everything.)

Steve B.

My B Junction has lived happily in the seat tube since install about 4 years ago. I just purchased appropriate cable lengths. I don’t see any issues with your plan.

bostongarden

Thank you sir!