Alright C&V bike sleuths, who can identify this Schwinn?
#1
Full Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2019
Location: Greater Chicago Area
Posts: 250
Bikes: 1987 Schwinn Mirada, 1989 Trek 420, 1995 GT Timberline, 1979 Schwinn Super Le Tour, Co-Op DRT 1.3
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 103 Post(s)
Liked 85 Times
in
49 Posts
Alright C&V bike sleuths, who can identify this Schwinn?
Saw this propped curbside in my neighborhood with a FREE sign attached, so I grabbed it. Was pleasantly surprised to discover that despite the “turkey lever” brakes, cheesy foam bar rap, and ill-advised modifications to the frame finish, there was more to this than I was expecting. Namely a fairly light frame, a 12-speed drivetrain of mixed Shimano 105 and 600 components, and 700c wheels. Got it home, pumped up the tires and it rode quite nicely without adjustment. The frame is my size, so I’m going to put some inexpensive tires on it and ride it. The previous owner apparently took pains to remove all the branding graphics, so I have no idea what this is apart from the Schwinn badge. Any clues, anyone?
#4
2k miles from the midwest
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Washington
Posts: 1,964
Bikes: ~'75 Colin Laing, '80s Schwinn SuperSport 650b, ex-Backroads ti project...
Mentioned: 18 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 525 Post(s)
Liked 931 Times
in
446 Posts
I'll be the first to say it.
I don't think that's the original headbadge for that frame.
I don't think that's the original headbadge for that frame.
#6
2k miles from the midwest
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Washington
Posts: 1,964
Bikes: ~'75 Colin Laing, '80s Schwinn SuperSport 650b, ex-Backroads ti project...
Mentioned: 18 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 525 Post(s)
Liked 931 Times
in
446 Posts
Parts can always be swapped (even easier than headbadges). Anything that would have used that headbadge would have been either electro-forged or fillet brazed, not lugged. The simple dropouts with claw indicate a low end frame of the 70s to early 80s. I'm not encylcopedic on that era, but I'd guess an Asia source for the frame itself. Maybe a Giant-made Schwinn, maybe not.
#7
Full Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2019
Location: Greater Chicago Area
Posts: 250
Bikes: 1987 Schwinn Mirada, 1989 Trek 420, 1995 GT Timberline, 1979 Schwinn Super Le Tour, Co-Op DRT 1.3
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 103 Post(s)
Liked 85 Times
in
49 Posts
Parts can always be swapped (even easier than headbadges). Anything that would have used that headbadge would have been either electro-forged or fillet brazed, not lugged. The simple dropouts with claw indicate a low end frame of the 70s to early 80s. I'm not encylcopedic on that era, but I'd guess an Asia source for the frame itself. Maybe a Giant-made Schwinn, maybe not.
#8
Full Member
Another clue to the quality is the the rear dropout doesn't have a derailleur hanger. But instead a claw the fits in.
I think the lightness you are experiencing is mainly due to the upgraded components, mainly the wheels.
For free, it's a great bike though, Nice score!
I'd probably strip the parts off it myself and save the parts for another higher quality frame and build this one with other components to get it back on the road for someone looking for something to lock to a bike rack.
I think the lightness you are experiencing is mainly due to the upgraded components, mainly the wheels.
For free, it's a great bike though, Nice score!
I'd probably strip the parts off it myself and save the parts for another higher quality frame and build this one with other components to get it back on the road for someone looking for something to lock to a bike rack.
__________________
#9
Full Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2019
Location: Greater Chicago Area
Posts: 250
Bikes: 1987 Schwinn Mirada, 1989 Trek 420, 1995 GT Timberline, 1979 Schwinn Super Le Tour, Co-Op DRT 1.3
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 103 Post(s)
Liked 85 Times
in
49 Posts
Another clue to the quality is the the rear dropout doesn't have a derailleur hanger. But instead a claw the fits in.
I think the lightness you are experiencing is mainly due to the upgraded components, mainly the wheels.
For free, it's a great bike though, Nice score!
I'd probably strip the parts off it myself and save the parts for another higher quality frame and build this one with other components to get it back on the road for someone looking for something to lock to a bike rack.
I think the lightness you are experiencing is mainly due to the upgraded components, mainly the wheels.
For free, it's a great bike though, Nice score!
I'd probably strip the parts off it myself and save the parts for another higher quality frame and build this one with other components to get it back on the road for someone looking for something to lock to a bike rack.
#10
52psi
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: Tucson, AZ
Posts: 4,014
Bikes: Schwinn Volare ('78); Raleigh Competition GS ('79)
Mentioned: 29 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 790 Post(s)
Liked 801 Times
in
390 Posts
Check the pic with the chainring.
Now check the frame decal behind the chainring.
If that decal doesn't say 1020 you can club me like a baby seal.
Now check the frame decal behind the chainring.
If that decal doesn't say 1020 you can club me like a baby seal.
__________________
A race bike in any era is a highly personal choice that at its "best" balances the requirements of fit, weight, handling, durability and cost tempered by the willingness to toss it and oneself down the pavement at considerable speed. ~Bandera
A race bike in any era is a highly personal choice that at its "best" balances the requirements of fit, weight, handling, durability and cost tempered by the willingness to toss it and oneself down the pavement at considerable speed. ~Bandera
Likes For Fahrenheit531:
#11
Full Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2019
Location: Greater Chicago Area
Posts: 250
Bikes: 1987 Schwinn Mirada, 1989 Trek 420, 1995 GT Timberline, 1979 Schwinn Super Le Tour, Co-Op DRT 1.3
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 103 Post(s)
Liked 85 Times
in
49 Posts
ding ding ding! You are correct. So this confirms that, in fact, this is actually a bottom of the barrel frame, despite my initial impressions?
#12
seńor miembro
Join Date: Dec 2018
Location: Pac NW
Posts: 6,602
Bikes: '70s - '80s Campagnolo
Mentioned: 92 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3870 Post(s)
Liked 6,461 Times
in
3,194 Posts
With the 105 headset, nice crankset and rear derailleur, this is the perfect bike to part out. Sell the frame for $10 to somebody who wants to learn how to build one up.
Likes For SurferRosa:
#13
Full Member
Sometimes it's hard to succinctly say why we think a bike may not be higher end, but just the quick summation of the parts and other clues lead to conclusions pretty quickly.
I think 700c wheels became more common as you moved to the late 70's and early 80's so you can still have a lower level bike with 700c wheels and there's also the chance that 700c wheels get swapped into a 27" frame. The back brake pads are adjusted near the bottom of the reach, front's don't look quite as bad though. I think 700c is probably right for this frame if I had to guess.
Honestly though, It's probably just a lower level bike, but you did get lucky on the components.
__________________
#14
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2015
Location: PDX
Posts: 13,033
Bikes: Merz x 5 + Specialized Merz Allez x 2, Strawberry/Newlands/DiNucci/Ti x3, Gordon, Fuso/Moulton x2, Bornstein, Paisley,1958-74 Paramounts x3, 3rensho, 74 Moto TC, 73-78 Raleigh Pro's x5, Marinoni x2, 1960 Cinelli SC, 1980 Bianchi SC, PX-10 X 2
Mentioned: 267 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4510 Post(s)
Liked 6,374 Times
in
3,666 Posts
That headbadge "looks" very original, placement, exact location, great condition, etc. but....
27in. wheels was a wildly moving target, as was the claw so...
Paramount's had 27in wheels well into the 70's.
Likes For merziac:
#15
52psi
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: Tucson, AZ
Posts: 4,014
Bikes: Schwinn Volare ('78); Raleigh Competition GS ('79)
Mentioned: 29 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 790 Post(s)
Liked 801 Times
in
390 Posts
Correct.
__________________
A race bike in any era is a highly personal choice that at its "best" balances the requirements of fit, weight, handling, durability and cost tempered by the willingness to toss it and oneself down the pavement at considerable speed. ~Bandera
A race bike in any era is a highly personal choice that at its "best" balances the requirements of fit, weight, handling, durability and cost tempered by the willingness to toss it and oneself down the pavement at considerable speed. ~Bandera
Likes For Fahrenheit531:
#16
Full Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2019
Location: Greater Chicago Area
Posts: 250
Bikes: 1987 Schwinn Mirada, 1989 Trek 420, 1995 GT Timberline, 1979 Schwinn Super Le Tour, Co-Op DRT 1.3
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 103 Post(s)
Liked 85 Times
in
49 Posts
Another clue to the quality is the the rear dropout doesn't have a derailleur hanger. But instead a claw the fits in.
I think the lightness you are experiencing is mainly due to the upgraded components, mainly the wheels.
For free, it's a great bike though, Nice score!
I'd probably strip the parts off it myself and save the parts for another higher quality frame and build this one with other components to get it back on the road for someone looking for something to lock to a bike rack.
I think the lightness you are experiencing is mainly due to the upgraded components, mainly the wheels.
For free, it's a great bike though, Nice score!
I'd probably strip the parts off it myself and save the parts for another higher quality frame and build this one with other components to get it back on the road for someone looking for something to lock to a bike rack.
Likes For Miradaman:
#17
Full Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2019
Location: Greater Chicago Area
Posts: 250
Bikes: 1987 Schwinn Mirada, 1989 Trek 420, 1995 GT Timberline, 1979 Schwinn Super Le Tour, Co-Op DRT 1.3
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 103 Post(s)
Liked 85 Times
in
49 Posts
Looks like I stand corrected yet again— have some time on my hands so was just now starting to scrub this thing down a bit. Scoured the grime off the rear rim and there's a badge that reads Araya 27 x 1. Which I didn't even realize was a thing. So not 700c after all...
Likes For Miradaman:
#18
Full Member
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Palm Springs, California
Posts: 462
Mentioned: 3 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 206 Post(s)
Liked 460 Times
in
176 Posts
Just clean it up and ride it until you find a killer deal on a higher-end frame. Then just swap the parts over, give everything a full overhaul, and you'll be set up. Save that old frame for a demolition derby fixie tall bike lake jumper project.
#19
Full Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2019
Location: Greater Chicago Area
Posts: 250
Bikes: 1987 Schwinn Mirada, 1989 Trek 420, 1995 GT Timberline, 1979 Schwinn Super Le Tour, Co-Op DRT 1.3
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 103 Post(s)
Liked 85 Times
in
49 Posts
That's not a bad idea. I've been wanting to tackle a "build" of some sort...
#20
Full Member
Looks like I stand corrected yet again— have some time on my hands so was just now starting to scrub this thing down a bit. Scoured the grime off the rear rim and there's a badge that reads Araya 27 x 1. Which I didn't even realize was a thing. So not 700c after all...
As for parts pricing, check ebay completed listings. None of the parts are that rare or in exceptional condition, so to me it's not really worth the hassle of selling, but I would definitely keep them in the parts bins for when another ride comes along. Keep in mind that all of the parts translating straight over to another bike might not be completely possible, there's different threading and tubing sizes. Some of us, like myself, say we'd keep the parts and use on another bike because we have small stockpiles of parts and can make complete bikes out of them. If this is your only parts bike, then you could get lucky and just swap a frame, or you might end up spending more time finding those correct parts to make the bike 100% together. Also, some of the fun in the hobby is learning these things and taking bikes that were broken and giving them new life from the parts bin.
Have fun and ride!
__________________
#21
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2015
Location: PDX
Posts: 13,033
Bikes: Merz x 5 + Specialized Merz Allez x 2, Strawberry/Newlands/DiNucci/Ti x3, Gordon, Fuso/Moulton x2, Bornstein, Paisley,1958-74 Paramounts x3, 3rensho, 74 Moto TC, 73-78 Raleigh Pro's x5, Marinoni x2, 1960 Cinelli SC, 1980 Bianchi SC, PX-10 X 2
Mentioned: 267 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4510 Post(s)
Liked 6,374 Times
in
3,666 Posts
Likes For merziac:
#22
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Central Indiana
Posts: 2,159
Mentioned: 27 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 912 Post(s)
Liked 515 Times
in
344 Posts
Compare this made in Japan '81 Le Tour to your frame. Look at the seat stay/seat tube lug. The reason they use a shim for the seat post is because there's a weld seam inside the seat tube. Yours doesn't have the same stem shifter cable stops on the down tube unless they were ground off. Those brake levers would have had matching centerpull callipers. Very similar and equally entry level.
Your bike is a perfect candidate for the Clunker Challenge .
Your bike is a perfect candidate for the Clunker Challenge .
Likes For FBOATSB:
#24
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2015
Location: PDX
Posts: 13,033
Bikes: Merz x 5 + Specialized Merz Allez x 2, Strawberry/Newlands/DiNucci/Ti x3, Gordon, Fuso/Moulton x2, Bornstein, Paisley,1958-74 Paramounts x3, 3rensho, 74 Moto TC, 73-78 Raleigh Pro's x5, Marinoni x2, 1960 Cinelli SC, 1980 Bianchi SC, PX-10 X 2
Mentioned: 267 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4510 Post(s)
Liked 6,374 Times
in
3,666 Posts
Likes For merziac:
#25
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Central Indiana
Posts: 2,159
Mentioned: 27 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 912 Post(s)
Liked 515 Times
in
344 Posts