A reasonably fool-proof torque wrench?
#1
Occam's Rotor
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2013
Posts: 7,248
Mentioned: 61 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2366 Post(s)
Liked 2,331 Times
in
1,164 Posts
A reasonably fool-proof torque wrench?
My older kid is getting a carbon bike, so I am thinking it is time he owns a torque wrench. To put it gently, he is a bit mechanically naive. (He also lives on is own now, so I can only offer my cheerful and engaging help and encouragement remotely.)
What might be the best low-torque wrench, in terms of preventing accidental over-tightening? The ones I have are essentially socket wrenches that you set to the claimed value in Nxm, and they click when you reach the appropriate torque. But I also am realistic enough to know that these things aren't fool-proof, even if calibrated correctly, and if you don't slacken the spring during storage, even an initially accurate calibration can't save you. Also, depending on how you do it, it is possible to miss the click, and having a qualitative sense of when you might be going too far can prevent a tragic outcome.
Would a beam torque wrench be better? (At work, we use these on shared equipment, like ultracentrifuges, where user error could lead to a major disaster.)
Other ideas or suggestions?
(Before I get a lecture on bad parenting, my youngest kid has become the most competent bike mechanic in the family. People differ.)
What might be the best low-torque wrench, in terms of preventing accidental over-tightening? The ones I have are essentially socket wrenches that you set to the claimed value in Nxm, and they click when you reach the appropriate torque. But I also am realistic enough to know that these things aren't fool-proof, even if calibrated correctly, and if you don't slacken the spring during storage, even an initially accurate calibration can't save you. Also, depending on how you do it, it is possible to miss the click, and having a qualitative sense of when you might be going too far can prevent a tragic outcome.
Would a beam torque wrench be better? (At work, we use these on shared equipment, like ultracentrifuges, where user error could lead to a major disaster.)
Other ideas or suggestions?
(Before I get a lecture on bad parenting, my youngest kid has become the most competent bike mechanic in the family. People differ.)
#2
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Southern California
Posts: 2,191
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 114 Post(s)
Liked 119 Times
in
92 Posts
If you think he'd be mainly using it to tighten and check stems and seat posts, these preset ones might be fine:
https://www.trekbikes.com/us/en_US/e...rench/p/08370/
https://www.trekbikes.com/us/en_US/e...rench/p/08370/
Likes For MudPie:
#3
Occam's Rotor
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2013
Posts: 7,248
Mentioned: 61 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2366 Post(s)
Liked 2,331 Times
in
1,164 Posts
Thanks very much for the suggestion. Those look ideal. The bike he is getting is a Trek, so that it is likely one of those (probably 5 Nxm) will be what he needs for the seat-post (my primary concern).
#4
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Pittsburgh, PA
Posts: 33,656
Bikes: '96 Litespeed Catalyst, '05 Litespeed Firenze, '06 Litespeed Tuscany, '20 Surly Midnight Special, All are 3x10. It is hilly around here!
Mentioned: 39 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2026 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1,096 Times
in
742 Posts
I'm a big fan of beam-type torque wrenches. They are less expensive and not subject to going out of calibration unless you actually bend something. Damage is obvious because the pointer won't be at zero with no load and it can be bent back to zero if it is damaged. Their only dpownside is you have to be able to see the torque scale but that's almost never a problem when working on bikes.
Likes For HillRider:
#6
Clark W. Griswold
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: ,location, location
Posts: 13,516
Bikes: Foundry Chilkoot Ti W/Ultegra Di2, Salsa Timberjack Ti, Cinelli Mash Work RandoCross Fun Time Machine, 1x9 XT Parts Hybrid, Co-Motion Cascadia, Specialized Langster, Phil Wood Apple VeloXS Frame (w/DA 7400), R+M Supercharger2 Rohloff, Habanero Ti 26
Mentioned: 54 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4350 Post(s)
Liked 3,989 Times
in
2,663 Posts
This is the one I use for quick stuff that I don't need a ton of adjustment: https://www.parktool.com/product/adj...Torque%20Tools
#7
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Sherwood, OR
Posts: 1,279
Mentioned: 29 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 336 Post(s)
Liked 309 Times
in
180 Posts
For ultimate “fool-proofness”, cam-over or break-over is the way to go, but they increase the cost 5x.
Unfortunately, if someone hears a click and keeps going, that is exactly the type of person that needs to be trained well to work with nice tools. I have managed hundreds of high-tech assemblers building multi-million dollar equipment, and we have invested extensively in break over torque wrenches. It only takes one sheared off bolt head to pay for many expensive torque wrenches.
All of that said, I would go with beam type or a small fixed with a loud click mechanism.
Unfortunately, if someone hears a click and keeps going, that is exactly the type of person that needs to be trained well to work with nice tools. I have managed hundreds of high-tech assemblers building multi-million dollar equipment, and we have invested extensively in break over torque wrenches. It only takes one sheared off bolt head to pay for many expensive torque wrenches.
All of that said, I would go with beam type or a small fixed with a loud click mechanism.
Last edited by aggiegrads; 05-09-20 at 11:04 AM.
#8
LR÷P=HR
Join Date: Sep 2019
Location: SF Bay Area
Posts: 2,180
Bikes: 1981 Holdsworth Special, 1993 C-dale MT3000 & 1996 F700CAD3, 2018 Cervelo R3 & 2022 R5, JustGo Runt, Ridley Oval, Kickr Bike 8-)
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 867 Post(s)
Liked 1,204 Times
in
693 Posts
Harbor Freight has a 5-80lb 3/8” click type for $20.
It does the job and I’ll never wear it out.
Barry
It does the job and I’ll never wear it out.
Barry
#9
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Roswell, GA
Posts: 8,319
Bikes: '93 Trek 750, '92 Schwinn Crisscross, '93 Mongoose Alta
Mentioned: 30 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1438 Post(s)
Liked 1,092 Times
in
723 Posts
The advantage of this kind of tool over a beam or click type for an inexperienced operator, is that it is impossible to overtorque the fastener as the tool releases at the set torque and will go no tighter. There is no way to ignore it and continue cranking the fastener like with the others.
Likes For dsbrantjr:
#10
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Roswell, GA
Posts: 8,319
Bikes: '93 Trek 750, '92 Schwinn Crisscross, '93 Mongoose Alta
Mentioned: 30 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1438 Post(s)
Liked 1,092 Times
in
723 Posts
That range is too high for many bike fasteners. Typical is 5 or 6 Newton-meters which is ~3.7 or 4.4 ft;lbs. It is good practice not to use a torque tool at the lower 10% or so o its range for best accuracy, which is stated as a percentage of full-scale.
Likes For dsbrantjr:
#11
Senior Member
I mean that's true but at the same time it's kinda silly. While it wouldn't be useful on say a stem or saddle, it would certainly be useful for the crank when you are doing like 45 Nm. That's why I recommended the Wheeler torque driver in combination with some HF specials.
#12
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2020
Posts: 490
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 252 Post(s)
Liked 67 Times
in
48 Posts
For those that are new to torque wrenches: I experimented with my click kind torque ratchet wrench before using it on my bike - I looked up nice big bolt in my place that would take some beating and applied the wrench and got no click in the wrench setting range of 2.6 to 16 Nm. It turned out, I was over-tightening way past the set torque. Once I figured that out, I found that a more reliable way than listening for a click is to watch the wrench head - it 'tilts' in the handle when at the set torque.
You can get familiar with how it works by setting the wrench at low torque, like several Nms, and putting the pressure on the head of the wrench with one of your hands while you hold the handle with the other. You can see the wrench head tilting and hear the click.
Watch for the wrench head tilt in the handle.
The tilt is pretty obvious, more so than the click.
-------------------------------------------------
Real reason why I am posting is, I am not clear on the torque setting markings on the wrench handle, the manual I got with the wrench is totally useless.
Which one of the two pictures shows the setting of '20' (inch pounds here but that doesn't matter here what units those are)?
Is this setting 20?
Initially I thought this is 20 but think the first image is right setting.
You can get familiar with how it works by setting the wrench at low torque, like several Nms, and putting the pressure on the head of the wrench with one of your hands while you hold the handle with the other. You can see the wrench head tilting and hear the click.
Watch for the wrench head tilt in the handle.
The tilt is pretty obvious, more so than the click.
-------------------------------------------------
Real reason why I am posting is, I am not clear on the torque setting markings on the wrench handle, the manual I got with the wrench is totally useless.
Which one of the two pictures shows the setting of '20' (inch pounds here but that doesn't matter here what units those are)?
Is this setting 20?
Initially I thought this is 20 but think the first image is right setting.
#13
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Salt Lake City, UT (Formerly Los Angeles, CA)
Posts: 1,145
Bikes: 2008 Cannondale Synapse -- 2014 Cannondale Quick CX
Mentioned: 5 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 212 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 83 Times
in
54 Posts
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B015DJGECA..._5tlXEb5VJ5E1Q
This one from Ice Tools.
It is a beam style, and is super easy to calibrate.
I don't know that "fool proof" is a selling feature for a torque wrench. They're all pretty simple to use. And I can't imagine there existing one that could actually be too hard, even for a fool, to use.
Anyway, I use this one frequently in the maintenance of my two bikes, my kids' two bikes, and the neighbor's kids' bikes. It's sturdy enough and no less fool proof than any other.
This one from Ice Tools.
It is a beam style, and is super easy to calibrate.
I don't know that "fool proof" is a selling feature for a torque wrench. They're all pretty simple to use. And I can't imagine there existing one that could actually be too hard, even for a fool, to use.
Anyway, I use this one frequently in the maintenance of my two bikes, my kids' two bikes, and the neighbor's kids' bikes. It's sturdy enough and no less fool proof than any other.
Likes For daoswald:
#14
Senior Member
You don't feel that? I never actually listen for a click, nor look at the head. When it breaks you feel it in the handle. It's been that way with every torque wrench I've ever used.
#15
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Sherwood, OR
Posts: 1,279
Mentioned: 29 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 336 Post(s)
Liked 309 Times
in
180 Posts
For those that are new to torque wrenches: I experimented with my click kind torque ratchet wrench before using it on my bike - I looked up nice big bolt in my place that would take some beating and applied the wrench and got no click in the wrench setting range of 2.6 to 16 Nm. It turned out, I was over-tightening way past the set torque. Once I figured that out, I found that a more reliable way than listening for a click is to watch the wrench head - it 'tilts' in the handle when at the set torque.
You can get familiar with how it works by setting the wrench at low torque, like several Nms, and putting the pressure on the head of the wrench with one of your hands while you hold the handle with the other. You can see the wrench head tilting and hear the click.
Watch for the wrench head tilt in the handle.
The tilt is pretty obvious, more so than the click.
-------------------------------------------------
Real reason why I am posting is, I am not clear on the torque setting markings on the wrench handle, the manual I got with the wrench is totally useless.
Which one of the two pictures shows the setting of '20' (inch pounds here but that doesn't matter here what units those are)?
Is this setting 20?
Initially I thought this is 20 but think the first image is right setting.
You can get familiar with how it works by setting the wrench at low torque, like several Nms, and putting the pressure on the head of the wrench with one of your hands while you hold the handle with the other. You can see the wrench head tilting and hear the click.
Watch for the wrench head tilt in the handle.
The tilt is pretty obvious, more so than the click.
-------------------------------------------------
Real reason why I am posting is, I am not clear on the torque setting markings on the wrench handle, the manual I got with the wrench is totally useless.
Which one of the two pictures shows the setting of '20' (inch pounds here but that doesn't matter here what units those are)?
Is this setting 20?
Initially I thought this is 20 but think the first image is right setting.
#16
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2011
Posts: 3,094
Mentioned: 7 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1034 Post(s)
Liked 1,290 Times
in
743 Posts
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Last edited by phughes; 05-20-20 at 09:00 AM.
#17
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2017
Location: Queens, NY for now...
Posts: 1,515
Bikes: 82 Lotus Unique, 86 Lotus Legend, 88 Basso Loto, 88 Basso PR, 89 Basso PR, 96 Bianchi CDI, 2013 Deda Aegis, 2019 Basso Diamante SV
Mentioned: 46 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 943 Post(s)
Liked 172 Times
in
113 Posts
Can we talk about why the torque wrench clicking off is such a relieving and satisfying sensation? I guess the reasoning is actually quite straightforward, but does anyone else enjoy the click so much? Have I just been traumatized by fear of stripping the very low torque parts on bikes, and the very high torque parts on motor vehicles (like the 180nm axle nut on my motorcycle that makes me sweat just thinking about it)?
I always immediately double check my torqued bolts, half to make sure everything is correct, half to enjoy the click again...
I always immediately double check my torqued bolts, half to make sure everything is correct, half to enjoy the click again...
#18
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2020
Posts: 490
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 252 Post(s)
Liked 67 Times
in
48 Posts
Now I could feel dumb but I am actually pretty good at all things mechanical and I shudder what 'normal' folks might do if they got their hands on torque wrench. I never had one, I always used common sense and a feel for the materials and I suppose I could continue doing that on the fancy bike I got. Usually nothing tragic happens if you under tighten, you just tighten some more until it works and continues working. But I can see the usefulness like if you take apart your car engine and during assembly you need to tighten bolts that you won't have any easy, reasonable access to later on.
Last edited by vane171; 05-20-20 at 09:56 AM.
#19
Senior Member
Can we talk about why the torque wrench clicking off is such a relieving and satisfying sensation? I guess the reasoning is actually quite straightforward, but does anyone else enjoy the click so much? Have I just been traumatized by fear of stripping the very low torque parts on bikes, and the very high torque parts on motor vehicles (like the 180nm axle nut on my motorcycle that makes me sweat just thinking about it)?
I always immediately double check my torqued bolts, half to make sure everything is correct, half to enjoy the click again...
I always immediately double check my torqued bolts, half to make sure everything is correct, half to enjoy the click again...
The lowest torque I've used was 2 NM for something on my bike, and I'm trying to remember what it was. The highest torques I've ever had to do were the "Jesus nut" on the OH-58 helicopter I was trained to fix in the Army (something like 450 ft-lbs) and the crankshaft nut on my old Honda Civic (I forget the torque value, but it was pretty high, and breaking it required some kludge using jackstands, a 1/2" breaker bar, and a long cheater pipe slid over it).
Likes For SethAZ:
#20
Senior Member
Now that I know what it is about, yes. Still the hear or feel the click in the handle failed me when I first tried it on various nuts - and when I didn't know yet what to look for visually. I even thought the wrench was a dud and I'd better find some bigger nuts around my place because it was clear, I'd strip those smaller ones while trying to hear or feel the click.
Now I could feel dumb but I am actually pretty good at all things mechanical and I shudder what 'normal' folks might do if they got their hands on torque wrench. I never had one, I always used common sense and a feel for the materials and I suppose I could continue doing that on the fancy bike I got. Usually nothing tragic happens if you under tighten, you just tighten some more until it works and continues working. But I can see the usefulness like if you take apart your car engine and during assembly you need to tighten bolts that you won't have any easy, reasonable access to later on.
Now I could feel dumb but I am actually pretty good at all things mechanical and I shudder what 'normal' folks might do if they got their hands on torque wrench. I never had one, I always used common sense and a feel for the materials and I suppose I could continue doing that on the fancy bike I got. Usually nothing tragic happens if you under tighten, you just tighten some more until it works and continues working. But I can see the usefulness like if you take apart your car engine and during assembly you need to tighten bolts that you won't have any easy, reasonable access to later on.
Likes For SethAZ:
#21
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: NJ, USA
Posts: 1,282
Bikes: two blacks, a blue and a white.
Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 445 Post(s)
Liked 847 Times
in
410 Posts
I can't recommend this more highly: BBB torqueset
It has much higher utility for me because it comes with the most appropriate hex bits included in a zip-up case. That makes it one-stop goto for pretty much all my hex-head adjustments, and if I'm throwing the bike in the car, that goes in, too.
It has much higher utility for me because it comes with the most appropriate hex bits included in a zip-up case. That makes it one-stop goto for pretty much all my hex-head adjustments, and if I'm throwing the bike in the car, that goes in, too.
#22
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: San Jose (Willow Glen) Ca
Posts: 9,845
Bikes: Kirk Custom JK Special, '84 Team Miyata,(dura ace old school) 80?? SR Semi-Pro 600 Arabesque
Mentioned: 106 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2338 Post(s)
Liked 2,822 Times
in
1,541 Posts
This is the one I use for quick stuff that I don't need a ton of adjustment: https://www.parktool.com/product/adj...Torque%20Tools
__________________
Life is too short not to ride the best bike you have, as much as you can
(looking for Torpado Super light frame/fork or for Raleigh International frame fork 58cm)
Life is too short not to ride the best bike you have, as much as you can
(looking for Torpado Super light frame/fork or for Raleigh International frame fork 58cm)
#23
Dangerous Old Man
You want to get a torque wrench like this one https://www.harborfreight.com/14-in-...nch-63881.html, it is calibrated in inch pounds, not foot pounds, bikes are delicate creatures, they need to be cared for carefully...
#24
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2017
Location: Queens, NY for now...
Posts: 1,515
Bikes: 82 Lotus Unique, 86 Lotus Legend, 88 Basso Loto, 88 Basso PR, 89 Basso PR, 96 Bianchi CDI, 2013 Deda Aegis, 2019 Basso Diamante SV
Mentioned: 46 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 943 Post(s)
Liked 172 Times
in
113 Posts
IThe lowest torque I've used was 2 NM for something on my bike, and I'm trying to remember what it was. The highest torques I've ever had to do were the "Jesus nut" on the OH-58 helicopter I was trained to fix in the Army (something like 450 ft-lbs) and the crankshaft nut on my old Honda Civic (I forget the torque value, but it was pretty high, and breaking it required some kludge using jackstands, a 1/2" breaker bar, and a long cheater pipe slid over it).
I also remember once pulling a hollow parking post out of the ground to put on the end of my breaker bar as a cheater pipe... the things we do!
#25
Senior Member
You want to get a torque wrench like this one https://www.harborfreight.com/14-in-...nch-63881.html, it is calibrated in inch pounds, not foot pounds, bikes are delicate creatures, they need to be cared for carefully...