Dean Torrey Gravel/Grays All Road Riders?
02-21-21, 12:23 PM
#1
Newbie
Thread Starter
Dean Torrey Gravel/Grays All Road Riders?
Anyone out there have any recent experience with Dean? I am considering the Grays All Road but the Torrey Gravel looks very similar with the main difference seemingly in the components. However, I can't find much in the way of recent reviews or many threads here on the forums. There are some older threads but nothing that I've found about these bikes in particular.
If anyone has any info on ride quality, ordering/working with Dean, anything at all...that would be much appreciated.
If anyone has any info on ride quality, ordering/working with Dean, anything at all...that would be much appreciated.
03-23-21, 06:29 PM
#2
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Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: '16 StumpJ, Salsa Mukluk, Soulcycles SS, Dean Colonel HT, BMC FourstrokeTrail, Dean Torres CX, Santana Visa Tandem, Trek T2000 Tandem, Cupertino MTB Tandem, FreeAgent26"Xtracycle, Dirt Drop Dingle, Jamis Dragon Dingle, Airborne Skyhag SS, SSDean Cols
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Hi, I have 3 Dean titanium bikes I ride often. But they are older. One is a Torreys custom CX from 2008 which in its current build is tubeless with 33mm wide tires, the widest I can fit in the rear.
As far as the quality of the construction goes it's legitimate. The ride works for me well on my Deans; I weigh 145 lbs. I theorize that heavier people may experience too much compliance depending upon their taste, but I don't think the frame would break under reasonable cyclist physiques.
Yesterday I was reminded of a 10,000 foot climbing day on mostly severe mountain bike terrain I did in 2005. The bike had 32mm tires with tubes. It was a fantastic ride.
At the time it had the classic flared Midge bars, crosstop brakes, barcons, a 9 speed triple, and some pretty thick handlebar tape.
It also had the original steel Dean disc fork on it. The BB7 was controlled by Cane Creek levers. It stopped and rolled well. The fork handled the braking quite good. Unfortunately the fork didn't match the frame ( and this I blame on Dean, suffering from some critical toe-overlap). I have since replaced the fork with a carbon fork that doesn't ride as well as the steel one, but is a fraction of the weight, and clears my toes properly.
It now has a 1x11 drivetrain, but after reminiscing on the old ride, I am tempted to go back to the triple, because the range made the bike really capable of going anywhere.
Dean has notorious reputation for customer service.y experience has not been poor at all, however there is good evidence that some cust builds have taken longer than expected and so on. My bike frame was in stock and possible an abandoned custom order, on sale.
the other 2 dean's are 1996tm hardtails which have been through all kinds of rides and builds. They still look like new.
I have no idea about the new gravel builds, their geometry, forks or anything. I'm pretty sure they're decent bike frames to begin with. I like mine, it has the most miles on it of all my bikes, but since make it 1x11 I stopped riding it. Not sure why except it probably has more to do with my single speeding than anything else. The tubeless tires make it even better.
Let us know how it goes if you get one.
As far as the quality of the construction goes it's legitimate. The ride works for me well on my Deans; I weigh 145 lbs. I theorize that heavier people may experience too much compliance depending upon their taste, but I don't think the frame would break under reasonable cyclist physiques.
Yesterday I was reminded of a 10,000 foot climbing day on mostly severe mountain bike terrain I did in 2005. The bike had 32mm tires with tubes. It was a fantastic ride.
At the time it had the classic flared Midge bars, crosstop brakes, barcons, a 9 speed triple, and some pretty thick handlebar tape.
It also had the original steel Dean disc fork on it. The BB7 was controlled by Cane Creek levers. It stopped and rolled well. The fork handled the braking quite good. Unfortunately the fork didn't match the frame ( and this I blame on Dean, suffering from some critical toe-overlap). I have since replaced the fork with a carbon fork that doesn't ride as well as the steel one, but is a fraction of the weight, and clears my toes properly.
It now has a 1x11 drivetrain, but after reminiscing on the old ride, I am tempted to go back to the triple, because the range made the bike really capable of going anywhere.
Dean has notorious reputation for customer service.y experience has not been poor at all, however there is good evidence that some cust builds have taken longer than expected and so on. My bike frame was in stock and possible an abandoned custom order, on sale.
the other 2 dean's are 1996tm hardtails which have been through all kinds of rides and builds. They still look like new.
I have no idea about the new gravel builds, their geometry, forks or anything. I'm pretty sure they're decent bike frames to begin with. I like mine, it has the most miles on it of all my bikes, but since make it 1x11 I stopped riding it. Not sure why except it probably has more to do with my single speeding than anything else. The tubeless tires make it even better.
Let us know how it goes if you get one.
03-23-21, 06:31 PM
#3
Full Member
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: '16 StumpJ, Salsa Mukluk, Soulcycles SS, Dean Colonel HT, BMC FourstrokeTrail, Dean Torres CX, Santana Visa Tandem, Trek T2000 Tandem, Cupertino MTB Tandem, FreeAgent26"Xtracycle, Dirt Drop Dingle, Jamis Dragon Dingle, Airborne Skyhag SS, SSDean Cols
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Hi, I have 3 Dean titanium bikes I ride often. But they are older. One is a Torreys custom CX from 2008 which in its current build is tubeless with 33mm wide tires, the widest I can fit in the rear.
As far as the quality of the construction goes it's legitimate. The ride works for me well on my Deans; I weigh 145 lbs. I theorize that heavier people may experience too much compliance depending upon their taste, but I don't think the frame would break under reasonable cyclist physiques.
Yesterday I was reminded of a 10,000 foot climbing day on mostly severe mountain bike terrain I did in 2005. The bike had 32mm tires with tubes. It was a fantastic ride.
At the time it had the classic flared Midge bars, crosstop brakes, barcons, a 9 speed triple, and some pretty thick handlebar tape.
It also had the original steel Dean disc fork on it. The BB7 was controlled by Cane Creek levers. It stopped and rolled well. The fork handled the braking quite good. Unfortunately the fork didn't match the frame ( and this I blame on Dean, suffering from some critical toe-overlap). I have since replaced the fork with a carbon fork that doesn't ride as well as the steel one, but is a fraction of the weight, and clears my toes properly.
It now has a 1x11 drivetrain, but after reminiscing on the old ride, I am tempted to go back to the triple, because the range made the bike really capable of going anywhere.
Dean has notorious reputation for customer service.y experience has not been poor at all, however there is good evidence that some cust builds have taken longer than expected and so on. My bike frame was in stock and possible an abandoned custom order, on sale.
the other 2 dean's are 1996tm hardtails which have been through all kinds of rides and builds. They still look like new.
I have no idea about the new gravel builds, their geometry, forks or anything. I'm pretty sure they're decent bike frames to begin with. I like mine, it has the most miles on it of all my bikes, but since make it 1x11 I stopped riding it. Not sure why except it probably has more to do with my single speeding than anything else. The tubeless tires make it even better.
Let us know how it goes if you get one.
As far as the quality of the construction goes it's legitimate. The ride works for me well on my Deans; I weigh 145 lbs. I theorize that heavier people may experience too much compliance depending upon their taste, but I don't think the frame would break under reasonable cyclist physiques.
Yesterday I was reminded of a 10,000 foot climbing day on mostly severe mountain bike terrain I did in 2005. The bike had 32mm tires with tubes. It was a fantastic ride.
At the time it had the classic flared Midge bars, crosstop brakes, barcons, a 9 speed triple, and some pretty thick handlebar tape.
It also had the original steel Dean disc fork on it. The BB7 was controlled by Cane Creek levers. It stopped and rolled well. The fork handled the braking quite good. Unfortunately the fork didn't match the frame ( and this I blame on Dean, suffering from some critical toe-overlap). I have since replaced the fork with a carbon fork that doesn't ride as well as the steel one, but is a fraction of the weight, and clears my toes properly.
It now has a 1x11 drivetrain, but after reminiscing on the old ride, I am tempted to go back to the triple, because the range made the bike really capable of going anywhere.
Dean has notorious reputation for customer service.y experience has not been poor at all, however there is good evidence that some cust builds have taken longer than expected and so on. My bike frame was in stock and possible an abandoned custom order, on sale.
the other 2 dean's are 1996tm hardtails which have been through all kinds of rides and builds. They still look like new.
I have no idea about the new gravel builds, their geometry, forks or anything. I'm pretty sure they're decent bike frames to begin with. I like mine, it has the most miles on it of all my bikes, but since make it 1x11 I stopped riding it. Not sure why except it probably has more to do with my single speeding than anything else. The tubeless tires make it even better.
Let us know how it goes if you get one.
03-24-21, 11:56 AM
#4
Newbie
Thread Starter
This is so incredibly helpful. I've been scouring the forums and have had trouble finding people who have Deans. A friend out in AZ said a couple of his friends ride Deans and love them. It sounds like--and especially if you have three of them--you have had the same experience. So far I've emailed back and forth with them to answer specifics, and they've been very, very responsive. I have a few more questions for them and will likely put a deposit down in the coming week. Will keep this thread updated for posterity.
06-26-21, 10:05 PM
#5
Full Member
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: '16 StumpJ, Salsa Mukluk, Soulcycles SS, Dean Colonel HT, BMC FourstrokeTrail, Dean Torres CX, Santana Visa Tandem, Trek T2000 Tandem, Cupertino MTB Tandem, FreeAgent26"Xtracycle, Dirt Drop Dingle, Jamis Dragon Dingle, Airborne Skyhag SS, SSDean Cols
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How goes this bike build? It will be awesome to have a modern equipped bike like this. Since my Deans are so old they are obsolete and transitioning to vintage and therefore lag on accessing modern advantages and conveniences, and yet they are so seemingly indefatigable machines, that I can't help but keep riding them despite the temptations out there. They are durable and do not display any signs of wear, at all really.
I remember when I first saw an nearly identical frame in titanium in the early 90's. It was a Kona. My friend had it and we were amazed by it's durability, and ride, let alone the light weight. At the time it seemed quite confidence building.
The first Dean that came into my life was a shop replacement in return for a warrantied carbon-fiber bike (it had a Girvin fork on it - for laughs), the carbon bike's cantilever brake bosses were cracking off while I descended the Portal Trail in Moab. Well, thanks for the memories.
I remember when I first saw an nearly identical frame in titanium in the early 90's. It was a Kona. My friend had it and we were amazed by it's durability, and ride, let alone the light weight. At the time it seemed quite confidence building.
The first Dean that came into my life was a shop replacement in return for a warrantied carbon-fiber bike (it had a Girvin fork on it - for laughs), the carbon bike's cantilever brake bosses were cracking off while I descended the Portal Trail in Moab. Well, thanks for the memories.
06-28-21, 03:56 PM
#6
Newbie
Thread Starter
The build is not yet underway. Dean expects to build the frame in late July or early August so I am hoping to have the frame in mid to late August. I have all of the parts sourced, minus the headset. That is going to come with the frame but King headsets are on 120 day lead time and not entirely sure when it will arrive at Dean. It was ordered in April so it should arrive in time for the frame, but who knows with bike parts these days. Will update once the actual build gets underway!
07-29-21, 01:00 PM
#7
Member
Any news on the build? I've been talking to Yo about a Grays or a modified El Diente, and lead time is October (so I assume that I won't be riding the bike till 2022, as I expect some delays sourcing the pieces...I would also go for a CK headset btw)
07-30-21, 06:52 AM
#8
Newbie
Thread Starter
I will say that the Grays looks even better in person. And I now have everything on it but the pedals and when I pick it up there is a real lightness to it. Of course, I am coming from a steel Charge Plug that really feels like a brick. Hoping to finish the build this morning and then get it out for a shakedown ride this afternoon. Will post pics when it is all done.
07-30-21, 07:13 AM
#9
Member
The frame just arrived on Wednesday, and the build has been going.....slow. This is the first frame I have built from new, so I'm on a learning curve. For some reason, it is far different from doing the exact same work as upgrades on my previous bike. I also had issues with the Yokozuna Motoko brakes I got for it and sorting that cost me a bunch of time.
I will say that the Grays looks even better in person. And I now have everything on it but the pedals and when I pick it up there is a real lightness to it. Of course, I am coming from a steel Charge Plug that really feels like a brick. Hoping to finish the build this morning and then get it out for a shakedown ride this afternoon. Will post pics when it is all done.
I will say that the Grays looks even better in person. And I now have everything on it but the pedals and when I pick it up there is a real lightness to it. Of course, I am coming from a steel Charge Plug that really feels like a brick. Hoping to finish the build this morning and then get it out for a shakedown ride this afternoon. Will post pics when it is all done.
"Yokozuna Motoko" - so you've gone full cable? Do they do flat mount versions or does the frame come set up for PM? (honestly I assumed it was FM..."thank you" Shimano...) They look remarkably similar to Juintech, right?
What wheel/tire combo are you using/will you be using? How's the clearance?
Thanks for the info!
07-30-21, 11:38 AM
#10
Newbie
Thread Starter
Below is the build so far. I just cannot get the front derailleur to shift and I haven't put the chain on yet. In the process I've destroyed the shift cable, and need to get a new set. Hopefully by tomorrow it'll be ready for a shakedown ride.
In any case, pretty happy with the build. The Motokos are flat mount and very similar to the Juintech from what I can tell. Rene Herse 32s for the tires and Fulcrum Racing 5s for the wheels. The wheelset isn't great, but got a great deal on them and they're perfectly fine for now. Maybe upgrade those next year.
Edit: Forgot to mention that clearance is for 38s. I doubt I'll get those fitted very often, but I wanted the option as I plan to travel with this bike quite a bit.
Edit 2: If you are thinking of a Grays at some point, I'll have some advice and happy to discuss via PM. First, I would avoid the Yokozuna Motokos if you're going full internal routing. You can see it in that photo, but there is very little room between where the cable emerges and the brake. With compressionless housing, you can't make it bend to fit in there. This is primarily due to the fact that the Motokos have the cable entry point on the outside ofthe brake. Second, if you are going mechanical with internal routing, strongly consider a cable guide under the BB. I am having to wrap my cable around the BB shell in the housing, and the Jagwire Pro shift housing is too stiff to do it easily. But I'd also note that I'm a pretty inexperienced mechanic so YMMV.
In any case, pretty happy with the build. The Motokos are flat mount and very similar to the Juintech from what I can tell. Rene Herse 32s for the tires and Fulcrum Racing 5s for the wheels. The wheelset isn't great, but got a great deal on them and they're perfectly fine for now. Maybe upgrade those next year.
Edit: Forgot to mention that clearance is for 38s. I doubt I'll get those fitted very often, but I wanted the option as I plan to travel with this bike quite a bit.
Edit 2: If you are thinking of a Grays at some point, I'll have some advice and happy to discuss via PM. First, I would avoid the Yokozuna Motokos if you're going full internal routing. You can see it in that photo, but there is very little room between where the cable emerges and the brake. With compressionless housing, you can't make it bend to fit in there. This is primarily due to the fact that the Motokos have the cable entry point on the outside ofthe brake. Second, if you are going mechanical with internal routing, strongly consider a cable guide under the BB. I am having to wrap my cable around the BB shell in the housing, and the Jagwire Pro shift housing is too stiff to do it easily. But I'd also note that I'm a pretty inexperienced mechanic so YMMV.
Last edited by kfried; 07-30-21 at 11:50 AM.
07-30-21, 12:38 PM
#11
Member
Below is the build so far. I just cannot get the front derailleur to shift and I haven't put the chain on yet. In the process I've destroyed the shift cable, and need to get a new set. Hopefully by tomorrow it'll be ready for a shakedown ride.
In any case, pretty happy with the build. The Motokos are flat mount and very similar to the Juintech from what I can tell. Rene Herse 32s for the tires and Fulcrum Racing 5s for the wheels. The wheelset isn't great, but got a great deal on them and they're perfectly fine for now. Maybe upgrade those next year.
Edit: Forgot to mention that clearance is for 38s. I doubt I'll get those fitted very often, but I wanted the option as I plan to travel with this bike quite a bit.
Edit 2: If you are thinking of a Grays at some point, I'll have some advice and happy to discuss via PM. First, I would avoid the Yokozuna Motokos if you're going full internal routing. You can see it in that photo, but there is very little room between where the cable emerges and the brake. With compressionless housing, you can't make it bend to fit in there. This is primarily due to the fact that the Motokos have the cable entry point on the outside ofthe brake. Second, if you are going mechanical with internal routing, strongly consider a cable guide under the BB. I am having to wrap my cable around the BB shell in the housing, and the Jagwire Pro shift housing is too stiff to do it easily. But I'd also note that I'm a pretty inexperienced mechanic so YMMV.
In any case, pretty happy with the build. The Motokos are flat mount and very similar to the Juintech from what I can tell. Rene Herse 32s for the tires and Fulcrum Racing 5s for the wheels. The wheelset isn't great, but got a great deal on them and they're perfectly fine for now. Maybe upgrade those next year.
Edit: Forgot to mention that clearance is for 38s. I doubt I'll get those fitted very often, but I wanted the option as I plan to travel with this bike quite a bit.
Edit 2: If you are thinking of a Grays at some point, I'll have some advice and happy to discuss via PM. First, I would avoid the Yokozuna Motokos if you're going full internal routing. You can see it in that photo, but there is very little room between where the cable emerges and the brake. With compressionless housing, you can't make it bend to fit in there. This is primarily due to the fact that the Motokos have the cable entry point on the outside ofthe brake. Second, if you are going mechanical with internal routing, strongly consider a cable guide under the BB. I am having to wrap my cable around the BB shell in the housing, and the Jagwire Pro shift housing is too stiff to do it easily. But I'd also note that I'm a pretty inexperienced mechanic so YMMV.
R8000 FD right? I had my share of troubles the first time I had to set one up, uncle Youtube solved the issue though, as it's pretty unintuitive if you're used to old school FD
Mine will be set up with an Ultegra r8070, and I'm certainly following your advise and asking for externally routed cables - I know it looks "worse" and whatnot, but it is so much simpler to service, plus I don't want to think the hell it must be trying to fish them out of such a small diameter tubes - I've had my set of issues with frames that had all cables (including guides) routed internally, and the BB is always a sore point too.
Fulcrums are great wheels, I have a set of 4's for road that I was planning to use as hybrid gravel for when the Dean arrives with some Challenge Strada (or similar) in 32 to 35 mm. 5s are basically the same only a bit shallower if I'm not mistaken. If you want to go for carbon, I have used eie carbon rims for some time now and am pretty impressed with quality and price - don't know about the whole wheelset though, but I will PM you to ask about the whole process with the Grays, and can let you know my experience with eie & lightbicycle, if you're considering going that route
Thanks!
07-31-21, 10:10 AM
#12
Newbie
Thread Starter
It looks fantastic, what a bike...my inner miser was still debating whether the price was too much, but seeing them all (almost) ready to ride, to hell with pennypinching
R8000 FD right? I had my share of troubles the first time I had to set one up, uncle Youtube solved the issue though, as it's pretty unintuitive if you're used to old school FD
Mine will be set up with an Ultegra r8070, and I'm certainly following your advise and asking for externally routed cables - I know it looks "worse" and whatnot, but it is so much simpler to service, plus I don't want to think the hell it must be trying to fish them out of such a small diameter tubes - I've had my set of issues with frames that had all cables (including guides) routed internally, and the BB is always a sore point too.
Fulcrums are great wheels, I have a set of 4's for road that I was planning to use as hybrid gravel for when the Dean arrives with some Challenge Strada (or similar) in 32 to 35 mm. 5s are basically the same only a bit shallower if I'm not mistaken. If you want to go for carbon, I have used eie carbon rims for some time now and am pretty impressed with quality and price - don't know about the whole wheelset though, but I will PM you to ask about the whole process with the Grays, and can let you know my experience with eie & lightbicycle, if you're considering going that route
Thanks!
R8000 FD right? I had my share of troubles the first time I had to set one up, uncle Youtube solved the issue though, as it's pretty unintuitive if you're used to old school FD
Mine will be set up with an Ultegra r8070, and I'm certainly following your advise and asking for externally routed cables - I know it looks "worse" and whatnot, but it is so much simpler to service, plus I don't want to think the hell it must be trying to fish them out of such a small diameter tubes - I've had my set of issues with frames that had all cables (including guides) routed internally, and the BB is always a sore point too.
Fulcrums are great wheels, I have a set of 4's for road that I was planning to use as hybrid gravel for when the Dean arrives with some Challenge Strada (or similar) in 32 to 35 mm. 5s are basically the same only a bit shallower if I'm not mistaken. If you want to go for carbon, I have used eie carbon rims for some time now and am pretty impressed with quality and price - don't know about the whole wheelset though, but I will PM you to ask about the whole process with the Grays, and can let you know my experience with eie & lightbicycle, if you're considering going that route
Thanks!
Here it is in the wild for the first time. My R8000 FD problem was solved by changing the housing. The Jagwire Pro was just too thick/stiff and a friend had some regular Shimano housing. That immediately did the trick. It also created a little more room in the downtube for the internal routing. All in all, the routing of the cables wasn't too bad. The guide through the downtube works really well and through the chain stays does take a bit of trial and error, but just a couple minutes.
Overall, the ride is beautiful. I was especially surprised at how stable and confident it was through corners. And when riding with no hands, the bike felt like it was on rails. Held speed really well, and miles above my previous bike on power transfer. It isn't a livewire, but the smoothness and stability are remarkable. Just a real solid all-rounder, which is exactly what I was after.
07-31-21, 03:50 PM
#13
Newbie
Thread Starter
One other post-ride reflection: I really, really like the Yokozunas. I said in a previous post that I would avoid them given the tight bend from the chainstay exit to the brake. I couldn't make that bend work so I actually cut the housing a bit short so it doesn't actually enter the stop included on the brake itself. So it's not perfect. But the stopping power was impressive, and a huge improvement over the TRP Spyres on my previous bike. The adjustment knob works brilliantly, and make for really tight brake levers, which I like.
08-02-21, 03:36 PM
#14
Member
I'd recommend you try the Nokon outers (similar to the Jagwire alligators, but the links are smaller so the bends can be tighter) if you are going to keep the Yokohama's - they are compressionless and will take a sharp bend - I have done what you've done on my wife's bike as a temporary measure (shimano Cx calipers) and although it worked, it was starting to eat away at the caliper so very slightly (it was paint rub and it may not have gone further, I have to admit) - but again, that is just me being OCD, if yours works just ignore this. Btw, the bike looks fantastic.
I put down the deposit yesterday, and for the moment the people at Dean are being just fantastic - I mentioned I was going to race the Rad this October and they even asked if they could speed up the build so I could use the Dean for the race - 10/10. Told them no need, btw, I felt it was going to be hard to get the frame in and dialed by Labour Day weekend so I'd rather be patient than rush it and get something wrong.
I put down the deposit yesterday, and for the moment the people at Dean are being just fantastic - I mentioned I was going to race the Rad this October and they even asked if they could speed up the build so I could use the Dean for the race - 10/10. Told them no need, btw, I felt it was going to be hard to get the frame in and dialed by Labour Day weekend so I'd rather be patient than rush it and get something wrong.
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08-16-21, 07:18 PM
#15
Newbie
Thread Starter
Writing with one last update in case future forum members come across it.
I now have my Dean dialed in and took it out for its first century last weekend. It was glorious. It rode smooth all day, and sections of road that really used to beat me up felt noticeably smoother. I arrived back home feeling fresher than any other century ride in the past. Of course, part of that may be down to the new carbon seatpost and the Rene Herse tires.
The only problem was that the bike was delivered with a BSA BB rather than the T47 noted in the final CAD drawing. That was not a deal breaker for me, although for others it might be. I've simply accepted it and have enjoyed the hell out of my bike in its first 500km.
I now have my Dean dialed in and took it out for its first century last weekend. It was glorious. It rode smooth all day, and sections of road that really used to beat me up felt noticeably smoother. I arrived back home feeling fresher than any other century ride in the past. Of course, part of that may be down to the new carbon seatpost and the Rene Herse tires.
The only problem was that the bike was delivered with a BSA BB rather than the T47 noted in the final CAD drawing. That was not a deal breaker for me, although for others it might be. I've simply accepted it and have enjoyed the hell out of my bike in its first 500km.
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10-18-21, 06:58 PM
#16
Member
Writing with one last update in case future forum members come across it.
I now have my Dean dialed in and took it out for its first century last weekend. It was glorious. It rode smooth all day, and sections of road that really used to beat me up felt noticeably smoother. I arrived back home feeling fresher than any other century ride in the past. Of course, part of that may be down to the new carbon seatpost and the Rene Herse tires.
The only problem was that the bike was delivered with a BSA BB rather than the T47 noted in the final CAD drawing. That was not a deal breaker for me, although for others it might be. I've simply accepted it and have enjoyed the hell out of my bike in its first 500km.
I now have my Dean dialed in and took it out for its first century last weekend. It was glorious. It rode smooth all day, and sections of road that really used to beat me up felt noticeably smoother. I arrived back home feeling fresher than any other century ride in the past. Of course, part of that may be down to the new carbon seatpost and the Rene Herse tires.
The only problem was that the bike was delivered with a BSA BB rather than the T47 noted in the final CAD drawing. That was not a deal breaker for me, although for others it might be. I've simply accepted it and have enjoyed the hell out of my bike in its first 500km.
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10-19-21, 06:55 AM
#17
Full Member
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: '16 StumpJ, Salsa Mukluk, Soulcycles SS, Dean Colonel HT, BMC FourstrokeTrail, Dean Torres CX, Santana Visa Tandem, Trek T2000 Tandem, Cupertino MTB Tandem, FreeAgent26"Xtracycle, Dirt Drop Dingle, Jamis Dragon Dingle, Airborne Skyhag SS, SSDean Cols
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So happy for you Dean riders. Nice build.
10-23-21, 05:35 AM
#18
Newbie
Thread Starter
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11-16-21, 08:26 AM
#19
Member
I finally got it and it is freaking awesome - I really like how the frame looks and I really, really think it was totally worth it, both the wait and the price tag.
I have just finished the rough build, waiting to sort out a few details and more importantly, take it for a ride.
The effing rear brake is driving me nuts - can't get the lever throw to something acceptable, and it's not because I went Shigura, as I got the front brake working perfectly (a first with me bleeding road brakes) - Shimano hydraulic road shifters are not my favourite, to be honest, specially after having tried some Campy Potenza.
The rest of the build is solid if a bit unspectacular - I got a Flite Carbonio as a throwback to my earlier years (and because I always found it to be a confy saddle) but somehow I don't think it ties in with the rear - I need something slimmer (and which doesn't destroy my backside) - I may move the Flite to the raceday/TT bike and try the Prologo on the Dean.
I still need to replace the BB with a Chris King (to match the headset...) but am waiting for the specific tool (yey, just one more cup standard!) and see how the bike feels - left quite a bit of uncut headtube in case I needed to raise the stem, but I got the feeling I will not be needing to - stack seems to be plenty when comparing it vs other bikes.
Anyway, I'll give a full write-down of the build and the process of getting the frame once I actually ride it, but as it is, I just want to hang it on the wall and stare at it all day.
I have just finished the rough build, waiting to sort out a few details and more importantly, take it for a ride.
The effing rear brake is driving me nuts - can't get the lever throw to something acceptable, and it's not because I went Shigura, as I got the front brake working perfectly (a first with me bleeding road brakes) - Shimano hydraulic road shifters are not my favourite, to be honest, specially after having tried some Campy Potenza.
The rest of the build is solid if a bit unspectacular - I got a Flite Carbonio as a throwback to my earlier years (and because I always found it to be a confy saddle) but somehow I don't think it ties in with the rear - I need something slimmer (and which doesn't destroy my backside) - I may move the Flite to the raceday/TT bike and try the Prologo on the Dean.
I still need to replace the BB with a Chris King (to match the headset...) but am waiting for the specific tool (yey, just one more cup standard!) and see how the bike feels - left quite a bit of uncut headtube in case I needed to raise the stem, but I got the feeling I will not be needing to - stack seems to be plenty when comparing it vs other bikes.
Anyway, I'll give a full write-down of the build and the process of getting the frame once I actually ride it, but as it is, I just want to hang it on the wall and stare at it all day.
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11-16-21, 08:34 AM
#20
Sunshine
Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: Des Moines, IA
Posts: 16,603
Bikes: '18 class built steel roadbike, '19 Fairlight Secan, '88 Schwinn Premis , Black Mountain Cycles Monstercross V4, '89 Novara Trionfo
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The effing rear brake is driving me nuts - can't get the lever throw to something acceptable, and it's not because I went Shigura, as I got the front brake working perfectly (a first with me bleeding road brakes) - Shimano hydraulic road shifters are not my favourite, to be honest, specially after having tried some Campy Potenza.ay.
Also, would Hope brakes with Shimano be Hopemano?...or Shope?
11-16-21, 08:52 AM
#21
Member
no worries, not that I'm very active in forums but I know what you mean - seems a question has turned into a personal attack nowadaysYou're right, Shigura is a contraction of Shimano and Magura - the term is used somehow frequently in mtb circles - basically you match Shimano levers (dry, crisp feel) with Magura calipers (lots and lots of power) and get the best of both worlds. I've been a fan of the combination for years and when sourcing parts for this build I saw the magura flat mount calipers and went for it - main issue is that Shimano road shifters are not servowave (that I know of, I think they've changed that with the 12s version) so feel is not as crisp as it is with the mountain levers, but still, the front brake feels better than it does with shimano calipers. The rear...well, that's another story, but I have had the same issue with a full shimano system, so I'm not blaming the Shiguras just yet
I'd go with Shope...Hopemano sounds like bad spanglish ;p and to tell you the truth I was considering the Shope route for a while (with the 4 piston caliper for the front) but it seemed to be a bit overkill, plus I new the Maguras would work first time, every time...zee Germans are reliable if nothing else!
Last edited by msr_78; 11-16-21 at 09:07 AM.
11-19-21, 09:08 AM
#22
Member
Well, the final build is getting delayed - Chris King BB was missing the fit kit and it seems it is not compatible with FSA 386 spindles, or at least I cannot make it go through: so now I am having to decide what to do
a) either keep the FSA cranks and go back to the FSA BB I used in the temporary build
b) go for a White industries cranks
FSA cranks - main advantage, lower cost and I could ride the bike sooner (although I am waiting for new hoods for the r8020, the ones on them are pretty loose) so no riding till Thanksgiving, with luck
White Industries - I keep the Chris king, don't have to return the bb tool (and the actual bb), get to choose a cool 48/32 (vs the 52/36 for the FSA's) chainring combination but cost skyrockets (an extra $450, but I would try to sell the FSA carbon crank for $250, as it is basically new)
Kind of liking the idea of going All American for the final build (Shimano and Magura and Selle Italia and Fulcrum notwithstanding)
Any thougths?
a) either keep the FSA cranks and go back to the FSA BB I used in the temporary build
b) go for a White industries cranks
FSA cranks - main advantage, lower cost and I could ride the bike sooner (although I am waiting for new hoods for the r8020, the ones on them are pretty loose) so no riding till Thanksgiving, with luck
White Industries - I keep the Chris king, don't have to return the bb tool (and the actual bb), get to choose a cool 48/32 (vs the 52/36 for the FSA's) chainring combination but cost skyrockets (an extra $450, but I would try to sell the FSA carbon crank for $250, as it is basically new)
Kind of liking the idea of going All American for the final build (Shimano and Magura and Selle Italia and Fulcrum notwithstanding)
Any thougths?
11-20-21, 03:45 AM
#23
Newbie
Thread Starter
That is a nice looking Dean! Glad to hear you're happy with it and hope you get the chance to eat some miles in the coming months.
On the fit kit, I assume that means your BB didn't ship with one, but those are still available from other retailers, right? I know that when I got my CK BB some of the retailers sold them without fit kits and those had to be ordered separately.
No advice on how to move forward, but hope you get the build finalized soon so you can get out and about.
On the fit kit, I assume that means your BB didn't ship with one, but those are still available from other retailers, right? I know that when I got my CK BB some of the retailers sold them without fit kits and those had to be ordered separately.
No advice on how to move forward, but hope you get the build finalized soon so you can get out and about.
11-23-21, 08:02 AM
#24
Member
That is a nice looking Dean! Glad to hear you're happy with it and hope you get the chance to eat some miles in the coming months.
On the fit kit, I assume that means your BB didn't ship with one, but those are still available from other retailers, right? I know that when I got my CK BB some of the retailers sold them without fit kits and those had to be ordered separately.
No advice on how to move forward, but hope you get the build finalized soon so you can get out and about.
On the fit kit, I assume that means your BB didn't ship with one, but those are still available from other retailers, right? I know that when I got my CK BB some of the retailers sold them without fit kits and those had to be ordered separately.
No advice on how to move forward, but hope you get the build finalized soon so you can get out and about.
I actually bought the BB at backcountry and they forgot to send me the fit kit - thankfully they were great and the fit kit is now on the mail, so that is sorted out too.
My worry now is the rear brake - I've been bleeding and rebleeding it and it still feels as if it had air trapped inside - I think I may have busted the reservoir membrane or whatever it is they call it. I've found replacements on Aliexpress, so maybe I'll spend the $10 they going for and do a rebuild just in case.
At this rate I think my Christmas present is going to be to get to ride the bike
