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Road Cycling “It is by riding a bicycle that you learn the contours of a country best, since you have to sweat up the hills and coast down them. Thus you remember them as they actually are, while in a motor car only a high hill impresses you, and you have no such accurate remembrance of country you have driven through as you gain by riding a bicycle.” -- Ernest Hemingway

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Old 02-22-23, 02:57 PM
  #76  
Sy Reene
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Originally Posted by msu2001la
The logic that they have to push hookless because they don't have an alternative makes no sense. Zipp has sold hooked/tubeless rims for years.

They currently sell rim-brake versions of the 303, 404 and 808 and they are all hooked/tubeless.

l
Apologies -- was speaking of disc braked models. But you're right, they have a narrower design offering they still sell for rim brakes. But it doesn't help the conversation anyway, because their calculator still returns only 74psi for a 205lb total setup on a hooked rim. Throwing another chart out there -- you can never have too many -- Spesh sells both rims and tires. But then again, maybe their motive is selling an advantage of hooked rims.. ya never know. Whatever the case, this reflects a 20psi difference to zipp's guidance (using the 176lb category). Just not seeing (for myself) any reason to take that leap.

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Old 02-22-23, 03:56 PM
  #77  
msu2001la
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Originally Posted by Sy Reene
Apologies -- was speaking of disc braked models. But you're right, they have a narrower design offering they still sell for rim brakes.
Zipp sells disc brake hooked rims. I provided a link and description in the portion of my post that you clipped out. They just don't sell these as prebuilt wheels, but if you contact your LBS or any wheelbuilder they can get these rims and build you a Zipp hooked rim disc brake wheel.

Originally Posted by Sy Reene
But it doesn't help the conversation anyway, because their calculator still returns only 74psi for a 205lb total setup on a hooked rim.
On a hooked rim this 74psi is a recommendation, not a maximum. You can run higher pressures on hooked rims. If you like higher pressures you shouldn't get hookless.
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Old 02-22-23, 07:01 PM
  #78  
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Well I put the wheels on today and I am very pleased with the look. Now to wait for springtime in Michigan!
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Old 03-04-23, 06:51 PM
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Hookless in MTB rims equates to better impact resistance. That was the biggest benefit that lead to the practically universal (vast majority of manufacturers anyway) adoption of hookless carbon MTB rims. I'm not sure that is as important on road at 60-70 PSI but the odd pothole can suddenly decide to show up. Is there a disadvantage if you don't run more than 70 PSI? I'm running 55-65 PSI and my new road bike has hookless carbon rims. It works well with tubeless 32s. Being a mountain biker primarily, I'm comfortable with hookless and tubeless on road and gravel, though hooked rims are fine too. In fact, I almost bought a hooked tubeless carbon wheelset last year, giving up mainly due to the shifting delivery time.
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Old 03-04-23, 08:23 PM
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Originally Posted by Chandne
Hookless in MTB rims equates to better impact resistance. That was the biggest benefit that lead to the practically universal (vast majority of manufacturers anyway) adoption of hookless carbon MTB rims. I'm not sure that is as important on road at 60-70 PSI but the odd pothole can suddenly decide to show up. Is there a disadvantage if you don't run more than 70 PSI? I'm running 55-65 PSI and my new road bike has hookless carbon rims. It works well with tubeless 32s. Being a mountain biker primarily, I'm comfortable with hookless and tubeless on road and gravel, though hooked rims are fine too. In fact, I almost bought a hooked tubeless carbon wheelset last year, giving up mainly due to the shifting delivery time.
Bravo. This is the first hookless advantage in this thread that seems to make sense.
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Old 03-28-23, 10:39 AM
  #81  
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Originally Posted by Chandne
Hookless in MTB rims equates to better impact resistance. That was the biggest benefit that lead to the practically universal (vast majority of manufacturers anyway) adoption of hookless carbon MTB rims. I'm not sure that is as important on road at 60-70 PSI but the odd pothole can suddenly decide to show up. Is there a disadvantage if you don't run more than 70 PSI? I'm running 55-65 PSI and my new road bike has hookless carbon rims. It works well with tubeless 32s. Being a mountain biker primarily, I'm comfortable with hookless and tubeless on road and gravel, though hooked rims are fine too. In fact, I almost bought a hooked tubeless carbon wheelset last year, giving up mainly due to the shifting delivery time.
100% Hookless have their merits for MTB or even gravel but running a 72 psi or less hookless tire on a race bike that needs heavier tires and really is meant to be run tubeless IMO is stupid, again leave that for MTB or gravel. If you are descending and are running normal 25mm-28mm tires just stick with hooked rims IMO. I think road people only buy these since these are the cheapest entry level big name carbon wheels you can find, but people forget 1500g+ isn't light and 45mm while decently aero isn't that deep. If you are willing to not go brand name you can find plenty of 50mm to even 60mm deep wheel that are cheaper and lighter. The only reason I would buy these for a road bike is for the warranty aspect which I will say is very stellar
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Old 03-28-23, 10:49 AM
  #82  
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Yeah, if running narrower tires, there is no need. It may even be preferable to run hooked on 25 for sure and even 28s or the tires bead MAY fall away from the rim bead when deflated. I run 32s though and am very comfortable with tubeless in general. I am currently waiting for my custom ZIPPs. The FedEx guy will not escape with them today.
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