Looking for Advice on Peugeot PZ Campagnolo buildups
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Looking for Advice on Peugeot PZ Campagnolo buildups
I have two basically NOS PY/PZ 531 Professional mid-'80's Peugeot frames and am going to build them up as PZ's (all Campy)
and want to get different opinions on which Campagnolo parts people here would use. I'm familiar with the costs.
Am thinking to maybe do one in more modern Campagnolo parts and one in something like late '80's period parts that performed best at the time ie. Record vs. Super Record etc.
Wheels wise I'm ok with Mavic rims on Campagnolo hubs etc. because I believe that's the way the PZ's came. Thanks
and want to get different opinions on which Campagnolo parts people here would use. I'm familiar with the costs.
Am thinking to maybe do one in more modern Campagnolo parts and one in something like late '80's period parts that performed best at the time ie. Record vs. Super Record etc.
Wheels wise I'm ok with Mavic rims on Campagnolo hubs etc. because I believe that's the way the PZ's came. Thanks
Last edited by andrewcd; 10-30-20 at 08:45 PM.
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For later 80's Campagnolo, 1st gen Chorus is an excellent gruppo to consider. Just forego the Synchro shifters and go with either their Doppler retrofrictions or regular friction shift levers from Campy (I think Campy sold them with their C-Record Gruppos). The Syncros, more than often, just does not work that well.
Last edited by Chombi1; 10-30-20 at 08:55 PM.
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Thanks, any thoughts about the bike equipped with the modern versions?
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I would skip late 80s and go with mid/early 80s Super Record
On the black frame go "modern" with 10s Record. Early 10s you can find alloy, later would be black/carbon.
On the black frame go "modern" with 10s Record. Early 10s you can find alloy, later would be black/carbon.
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Thanks and sweet bike! Hard to tell from my pic but for some reason these frames metallic/pearl really pops so looking forward to having them done for sure!
#7
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I am looking at a similar treatment for my littermate 1960 Capo Siegers -- make one original, right down to the cottered steel crankset, original Campag. high flange hubs, a 2x5 driveline (maybe 2xultra-6), and Weinmann centerpull brakes and Gran Sport derailleurs with downtube levers, and the other with alloy cranks, barcons, and 2x7 or perhaps 3x7. (I don't want to do a 120mm to 135mm cold set, but 126 or 128, such as I did on the Modell Campagnolo, should work OK.)
I really like your Peugeots and your concept.
I really like your Peugeots and your concept.
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"Far and away the best prize that life offers is the chance to work hard at work worth doing." --Theodore Roosevelt
Capo: 1959 Modell Campagnolo, S/N 40324; 1960 Sieger (2), S/N 42624, 42597
Carlton: 1962 Franco Suisse, S/N K7911
Peugeot: 1970 UO-8, S/N 0010468
Bianchi: 1982 Campione d'Italia, S/N 1.M9914
Schwinn: 1988 Project KOM-10, S/N F804069
"Far and away the best prize that life offers is the chance to work hard at work worth doing." --Theodore Roosevelt
Capo: 1959 Modell Campagnolo, S/N 40324; 1960 Sieger (2), S/N 42624, 42597
Carlton: 1962 Franco Suisse, S/N K7911
Peugeot: 1970 UO-8, S/N 0010468
Bianchi: 1982 Campione d'Italia, S/N 1.M9914
Schwinn: 1988 Project KOM-10, S/N F804069
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I am looking at a similar treatment for my littermate 1960 Capo Siegers -- make one original, right down to the cottered steel crankset, original Campag. high flange hubs, a 2x5 driveline (maybe 2xultra-6), and Weinmann centerpull brakes and Gran Sport derailleurs with downtube levers, and the other with alloy cranks, barcons, and 2x7 or perhaps 3x7. (I don't want to do a 120mm to 135mm cold set, but 126 or 128, such as I did on the Modell Campagnolo, should work OK.)
I really like your Peugeots and your concept.
I really like your Peugeots and your concept.
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Do you want to spread a frame made of 531 SL tubing? I have no experience with that but I would be wary of this given the tubing set. I could be wrong on this so I'm putting it out there for discussion. Beautiful bikes. Gosh you have 2 of these?
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There are a couple references that say due to 753's high tensile strength, there's a risk of buckling the tubes to go far enough to cold set them.
Was hoping that these being mid-late '80's that they'd be 128mm, but nope, 126mm.
ref. "531 Professional - Superseded 531SL, for road racing and time trials. Comprises 531 lightweight main tubes and 753R rear stays. Early versions used 753T rear stays"
I tried testing a little force on them and they are amazingly stiff and feel as though something would be wrong to get them to stay 4mm deflected.
So the next question is, any safe/good way to narrow the 130mm 8 speeds down closer to 126mm?
Guess I could also go with one of the 126mm Campagnolo Athena 7sp hubs or Regina Extra 7speed freewheels..... Any ideas?
Last edited by andrewcd; 10-31-20 at 08:50 PM.
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Update: Found out the 531 Professional frames had 531 stays so the frames "should" be able to be cold set for 130 spacing (from 126)
Apparently when the 753 rear stays of 653 replaced the 531 Professional frames, some misinfo. was out that the 653/531P frames were the same.
The plan (for today ) is modern 11 speed super record Campy/black carbon on the pearl white frame and '80's-90's 9 speed C-record Campy/silver polished aluminum on the metallic black frame.
Apparently when the 753 rear stays of 653 replaced the 531 Professional frames, some misinfo. was out that the 653/531P frames were the same.
The plan (for today ) is modern 11 speed super record Campy/black carbon on the pearl white frame and '80's-90's 9 speed C-record Campy/silver polished aluminum on the metallic black frame.
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Slow moving but here for an update
New Old Stock Campagnolo Record crankset for the black PZ build with metal Campagnolo parts
New Old Stock Campagnolo Record crankset for the black PZ build with metal Campagnolo parts
#13
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Here's a PXN10E from 1980 with some upgrades:
...I'm not real period perfect on wheel replacements. I tend to build with more modern rims on older hubs. They are easily obtained, and seem to me to do a good job. I think these are Sun rims, the narrower 700c version.
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...not sure if you're looking for the sort of advice I have to offer, but here goes anyway. Spreading the stays to 130 on these is not that hard to do, but you need to consider what it is you intend to accomplish. If it's a wider gearing range, that's sort of a specious goal, since even with 6 cogs in the back, you can install just about any large cog that your rear derailleur can handle.
In terms of what they looked like originally, versus what yours will look like after the modifications, most of the more modern cranks you're lookin at don't look a whole lot like the Stronglight and CAmpy NR cranks that were popular in the early-mid 80's. If you really want a wide range, you can look for either a Campy long cage (Rally), or go with a longer cage retrofit of a NR rear mech, with the cage plates that Soma makes and sells.
More cogs in back does give you more choices, so it might be a help in establishing perfect cadence. That's only handy if you race, IME.
I forget what the smallest chain rings available are for the period specific Campy NR and Stronglight cranks are, but if you really want the widest range, the similar appearing Sugino cranks, in the Mighty series, with 110 BCD are the way to do that. This is not something I worry about much, because it's pretty flat here, and I have other bikes with different setups if I go up into the hills nearby.
Anyway, that would be my advice, before you start respacing these frames and buying components. Decide what you want the end product to look like, and the gearing range you need. Don't get too hung up in the number of rear cogs you are going to install, unless you are a cadence freak. I get it, to some people that's very important. I'm just not one of them.
...not sure if you're looking for the sort of advice I have to offer, but here goes anyway. Spreading the stays to 130 on these is not that hard to do, but you need to consider what it is you intend to accomplish. If it's a wider gearing range, that's sort of a specious goal, since even with 6 cogs in the back, you can install just about any large cog that your rear derailleur can handle.
In terms of what they looked like originally, versus what yours will look like after the modifications, most of the more modern cranks you're lookin at don't look a whole lot like the Stronglight and CAmpy NR cranks that were popular in the early-mid 80's. If you really want a wide range, you can look for either a Campy long cage (Rally), or go with a longer cage retrofit of a NR rear mech, with the cage plates that Soma makes and sells.
More cogs in back does give you more choices, so it might be a help in establishing perfect cadence. That's only handy if you race, IME.
I forget what the smallest chain rings available are for the period specific Campy NR and Stronglight cranks are, but if you really want the widest range, the similar appearing Sugino cranks, in the Mighty series, with 110 BCD are the way to do that. This is not something I worry about much, because it's pretty flat here, and I have other bikes with different setups if I go up into the hills nearby.
Anyway, that would be my advice, before you start respacing these frames and buying components. Decide what you want the end product to look like, and the gearing range you need. Don't get too hung up in the number of rear cogs you are going to install, unless you are a cadence freak. I get it, to some people that's very important. I'm just not one of them.
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Thanks, I'm simply looking for the more modern aluminum components prior to carbon for one bike, and carbon for the other, all in Campi ie. PZ form.
The idea is if Peugeot survived and decided to keep the lightweight steel frames with more modern Campi components for a continuation of the PZ.
The crank I show above is the more modern Record aluminum crank prior to carbon and will go on the black bike, the white one will have the all carbon Campi.
The idea is if Peugeot survived and decided to keep the lightweight steel frames with more modern Campi components for a continuation of the PZ.
The crank I show above is the more modern Record aluminum crank prior to carbon and will go on the black bike, the white one will have the all carbon Campi.
Last edited by andrewcd; 09-13-21 at 10:17 PM.
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If you are lucky enough to have two 'near NOS frames, I would absolutely not try to spread it open. Especially if you are staying with the older downtube shifting groupsets. Even if you're going with brifters, you can still build a (mostly) Campy build on 126mm, except with 7 speed Shimano freewheel, and 8 speed Ergopower brifters.