Cnguyen323

The stock wheelset on this thing isn’t ideal. But I haven’t had issues related to the rims yet. Just some issues with running a tube setup.

these are the specs on the stock X I could find that are relevant to this upgrade.

• Wheels: Poseidon Alloy 700c 32h, quick-release axle. Rims are not tubeless compatible.
• Bike can handle up to a 700x40 tire with clearance for mud. 650b compatible with up to a 1.9" wide tire.
• Fork: Full Carbon fork – Tapered 1 1/8" – 1 1/2"

I assume they’re better than a big box store bike’s rims. I’m thinking of going with the aluminum wtb i23 (or something of a similar price range/spec) but I’m not sure of which model specifically.

As I’m searching I’m finding a lot of 29ers and not too many 700cs for sale. Are there any compatibility issues with mounting 700c riddlers on a 29er rim?

I’m also not sure of any compatibility issues I may encounter with this switch. The X has a micro shift advent X and 160mm 6 bolt rotors with tektro mech brakes.

I’m mostly riding pavement and hard pack gravel. I’m a heavy rider (240lbs/109kg) so if there are recommendations on wheelset from any big boys out there, let me know. If I’m silly for looking for a wheelset at this price point and should look for something around the $500 mark, I’d also like to know.

if there’s a better forum section I could post this in, enlighten me as I’m clearly new to this.

also let me know your experiences with tubeless and if it’s a good idea for a beginner at all. I struggle with even mounting a tire with my tube setup. I have a reliable lbs that I trust to switch over my cassette/rotors if I decide to get a new wheelset.

Badger6

Don't assume they are better than a big box store rim.

The line between 29er and 700c rims is pretty fuzzy, especially in the gravel segment. Pay attention the internal width of the rim and make sure it is compatible with the tire (width) you intend to use. But, recall that 29er is a MTB expression where 700c is a road/gravel expressions, and the corresponding wheelsets won't be interchangeable because of the hub axle dimensions. Rear hubs are usually 12x148mm for MTB and 12x142mm for gravel and road thru axle, with 15x110 (MTB) and 12x100 (gravel/road) on the front.

Rotor mounting to the hub is either 6 bolt or center lock, but that won't affect compatibility to the brake caliper.

Tubeless is not hard, but it's got definite potential for frustration. You don't have to be a pro tour mechanic to make it work, but a good bit of know how wouldn't hurt.

Cnguyen323

I’m hopeful they’re better. But at this price point, Poseidon had to cut corners on the wheelset for sure.

appreciate the insight on the axle dimensions. Is thru axle ideal across the board? And I’ll probably contact Poseidon or the fb group to get detailed specs on the fork because I’m not sure of the spacing. As far as axle widths compatible with forks, there’s no wiggle room correct? MTB 29er rims wouldn’t work with a standard gravel fork?

sean.hwy

These guys are the experts on wheels, number of spokes you need for x amount of weight etc...



Clydesdales/Athenas (200+ lb / 91+ kg)
https://www.bikeforums.net/clydesdal...-200-lb-91-kg/

Cnguyen323

thank you! X-posted

cyclezen

The stock wheels on my Poseidon X are solid wheels, quite good considering the overall bike price. Have been bulletproof for my riding, which is more like MTB-lite... drops, rock/chunk, sandy and lots of erosion ditches. I was surprised how well they, with the Kenda Small bloc tires, ran in paved. They are 'heavy' compared to after-market wheelsets, but certainly no more than those found on bikes under $2K.
Specs are QR (100 & 135mm) , 21mm internal, so 35mm tires will measure out at 33, 40 at 38mm and so on.
They can easily be made 'tubeless' using the Stans tubeless kit with the tape and valves. And since they have hook rims, they should work with just about any tire.
I've used Conti tires, both reg and 'Tubeless' (w/ tube inside...) and they worked fine.
Go to your LBS, see if they have a tubeless 'conversion kit', like Stans, check the valves on the rim, and you're good to go. The wheels should hold up fine at your weight (at least as good as any which are not custom hand built.
I, personally, bought an upgrade wheelset (FSA non Series Convertible) which, running tubeless or with TPU tubes, helped me drop 2 lbs from the overall weight... nice, but I'm not sure of their MAX weight rating - I was 150 lbs when I bought them, now at 145 "fighting' weight...
You could also consider a slightly wider tire, 40mm would still work ok with the 21mm internal of the stock width, and will 'carry' you a bit better - requiring a little less pressure, but still not so low as to invite casing damage...
If you do take the wheels to your LBS, you might ask them to check the cone adjustment on the wheels. I did find the cones on my front wheel a hair tight, and made the adjustment.
But that can be expected from any factory wheel - always worth the check upon receipt or after the initial few miles...
Poseidon X is quite a nice bike, and hard to beat at 2x the price. Especially for a big rider.
Ride On
Yuri

Cnguyen323

Thanks Yuri. You’ve shared insights with me multiple times on here and I appreciate it. I’ll just ride these stock rims until the wheels fall off. Still a beginner who’s ignorant to what aftermarket wheels feel like so I’ll appreciate what I have at the moment.

cyclezen

You can easily check your wheels for proper cone adjustment.
take off the QR, hold the wheel, each side at where the axle meets the outside cone - Spin the wheel. 'Prefect' feels very smooth, 'grabby/notchy resistance at points when the wheel spins indicated the cones might be a little tight...
still holding the wheel in same fashion, place wheel between legs on ground, hold the wheel bottom in place with your feet, try 'torqueing' the axle up and down, if there is some 'play', the cones might be a bit loose. All this is a matter of degrees, experience makes the determination easier. But if they're really tight or really loose, you'll know.
Then take them to someone who knows wheels, get them adjusted... eventually a good thing to learn yourself.
Also at 240 lbs, a 'wider' good tire may be a good 'upgrade' to consider. something 40 to 42 width would make a discernable riding difference.
The Cyclocross/Gravel forum has numerous tire threads.
Prolly some good info in the CLydes/Athenas forum as noted by others..
Ride On
Yuri

Badger6

I was curious, so I did a little more looking. The bike is originally QR (and based on your post, I assume you have not converted it to TA). That will present some challenges for buying new wheels, in that most wheel sets these days—even low end—will be spec’d for TA, but getting QR endcaps shouldn't be too challenging and swapping them on a decent wheelset is a cinch. Your LBS can help you with this in practice, in theory it is usually just a matter of pulling the end caps off and replacing them with the new ones.

A slightly pricier route, but a far superior solution, IMO, is converting the bike to TA. Poseidon X has a kit to do it, for $150. TA will guarantee that the wheels are always centered in the “dropout” and that the brake rotors re properly aligned to the calipers. It is not necessary, just more convenient.