Raleigh 20. I'm guessing vintage, anyone know the value?
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Raleigh 20. I'm guessing vintage, anyone know the value?
our local cl has a raleigh 20 advertised for sale. made in knottingham england, year unknown. 3 speed ih. they're asking 350 dollars for this bike? is this too much. is the bike heavy, or heavier than normal for a folder, i have back issues and would have to lift it alot. thanks for any input. ride on!
#2
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our local cl has a raleigh 20 advertised for sale. made in knottingham england, year unknown. 3 speed ih. they're asking 350 dollars for this bike? is this too much. is the bike heavy, or heavier than normal for a folder, i have back issues and would have to lift it alot. thanks for any input. ride on!
#3
Schwinnasaur
our local cl has a raleigh 20 advertised for sale. made in knottingham england, year unknown. 3 speed ih. they're asking 350 dollars for this bike? is this too much. is the bike heavy, or heavier than normal for a folder, i have back issues and would have to lift it alot. thanks for any input. ride on!
#4
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You said $350, so I assume it is not this $300 one.
https://janesville.craigslist.org/bi...475094321.html
I have not seen a Raleigh folder for years, can't comment too much on them. But there are some generic Raleigh things on their full size bikes of that era that are likely common on the folders too. Using the link I posted above:
1 - This bike has a cottered crank. The cotter pins are hard to replace, unlikely that your local bike shop will have one. And if you buy one it might not fit as well as the one you removed.
2 - I had a 72 Raleigh full size bike, the fender mounts on the frame, I am not sure if they were number 12 fine thread or what, but the hardware store did not have any replacement bolts, would likely need to be re-tapped if you need screws.
You said Nottingham, the bottom bracket threads will have a thread that is specific to that factory. Nothing else will fit, but I think that Phil might have made replacement bottom bracket parts, or might have at one time if you wanted to change cranks, but that would be pricy if you got one from Phil.
I would expect it to be pretty heavy.
ADDENDUM:
I think that about half of it would be metric for wrench sizes, but the other half Whitworth. The Whitworth bolts, you would need adjustable wrenches. That is not a deal breaker, just a warning that you will struggle if you were not aware that you need an adjustable wrench for a lot of fittings.
https://janesville.craigslist.org/bi...475094321.html
I have not seen a Raleigh folder for years, can't comment too much on them. But there are some generic Raleigh things on their full size bikes of that era that are likely common on the folders too. Using the link I posted above:
1 - This bike has a cottered crank. The cotter pins are hard to replace, unlikely that your local bike shop will have one. And if you buy one it might not fit as well as the one you removed.
2 - I had a 72 Raleigh full size bike, the fender mounts on the frame, I am not sure if they were number 12 fine thread or what, but the hardware store did not have any replacement bolts, would likely need to be re-tapped if you need screws.
You said Nottingham, the bottom bracket threads will have a thread that is specific to that factory. Nothing else will fit, but I think that Phil might have made replacement bottom bracket parts, or might have at one time if you wanted to change cranks, but that would be pricy if you got one from Phil.
I would expect it to be pretty heavy.
ADDENDUM:
I think that about half of it would be metric for wrench sizes, but the other half Whitworth. The Whitworth bolts, you would need adjustable wrenches. That is not a deal breaker, just a warning that you will struggle if you were not aware that you need an adjustable wrench for a lot of fittings.
Last edited by Tourist in MSN; 04-24-22 at 08:08 AM.
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#5
my nice bike is at home
Hold out for a cheaper R20, they made a buncha them..many many many.
I do think that price would be suitable for a 'resto-mod' version, with a modern BB, light-weight high quality aluminum parts, 451 wheels, short-reach brakes etc.
mainly because it's a lot of work to get one modernized.
Adding high quality, components to an old R-20 makes for a pretty nice usable transportation, the frames are good and sturdy.
The above comment is right: "You said Nottingham, the bottom bracket threads will have a thread that is specific to that factory. Nothing else will fit, but I think that Phil might have made replacement bottom bracket parts, or might have at one time if you wanted to change cranks, but that would be pricy if you got one from Phil."
I did just that, purchased Phil Wood cups and fitted a Shimano bottom bracket BB-UN55 ( i think..) so I could run 'modern' square-taper cranks, in my case a Campagnolo Chorus (!) - is just what I had lying around. After all the effort to lighten it, it's still a pretty heavy bike, I knick-named it 'The Boat Anchor"
Again for an old, stock R20 the price seems high, but perhaps a totally stock one, with zero miles on it, would fetch such a high price... if that is your thing.
But what the hell do I know? Lot's of prices seem crazy these days...
Lastly the R20 is probably too heavy for what you are seeking, even with modifications.
I do think that price would be suitable for a 'resto-mod' version, with a modern BB, light-weight high quality aluminum parts, 451 wheels, short-reach brakes etc.
mainly because it's a lot of work to get one modernized.
Adding high quality, components to an old R-20 makes for a pretty nice usable transportation, the frames are good and sturdy.
The above comment is right: "You said Nottingham, the bottom bracket threads will have a thread that is specific to that factory. Nothing else will fit, but I think that Phil might have made replacement bottom bracket parts, or might have at one time if you wanted to change cranks, but that would be pricy if you got one from Phil."
I did just that, purchased Phil Wood cups and fitted a Shimano bottom bracket BB-UN55 ( i think..) so I could run 'modern' square-taper cranks, in my case a Campagnolo Chorus (!) - is just what I had lying around. After all the effort to lighten it, it's still a pretty heavy bike, I knick-named it 'The Boat Anchor"
Again for an old, stock R20 the price seems high, but perhaps a totally stock one, with zero miles on it, would fetch such a high price... if that is your thing.
But what the hell do I know? Lot's of prices seem crazy these days...
Lastly the R20 is probably too heavy for what you are seeking, even with modifications.
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BMC Race Machine / BMC Team Machine / Rossin Record / 80's Pinarello Traviso / Merlin MTB / Raleigh "Folding 20" / Ti-Swift (!)
Erikson w/C&C couplers / Trek's: 2300, 1200, 990 / Jamis 'Sputnik'
BMC Race Machine / BMC Team Machine / Rossin Record / 80's Pinarello Traviso / Merlin MTB / Raleigh "Folding 20" / Ti-Swift (!)
Erikson w/C&C couplers / Trek's: 2300, 1200, 990 / Jamis 'Sputnik'
Last edited by kraftwerk; 04-28-22 at 10:45 PM. Reason: Shimano bottom bracket BB-UN55
#6
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Fully modernizing an R20 requires a lot of work. For me, the only thing I would upgrade are the rims. Change it to aluminum and be done with it.
#7
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$350 is a lot for an old heavy folder. Yes, they are cool, they have a nostalgic appeal, but you can get a newer folder for that money.
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Paul Pinigis
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#8
Senior Member
Nobody goes fishing for the smallest fish.
I’ve got over $250 in my modded R20.
A blast to ride but stupid money. I could have bought a few hair transplants!
I’ve got over $250 in my modded R20.
A blast to ride but stupid money. I could have bought a few hair transplants!
#9
Schwinnasaur