What's the Difference?
#1
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What's the Difference?
Currently riding an early 2000s Trek 2000. The bike is fairly light, and riding hard I can average around 18.5-19 mph on a reasonably flat surface, with some smaller hills.
Next year I will likely have some room in my budget for an upgrade (~$2000).
So my question is this:
What kind of speed difference (if any) can be expected from a new bike? I know there's some weight difference, but not a whole lot. Are they significantly more aerodynamic? Or will I basically just have a shinier, flashier toy?
I do some racing and triathlons, but not enough to get a dedicated tri-bike and will probably avoid an all-carbon ride.
Next year I will likely have some room in my budget for an upgrade (~$2000).
So my question is this:
What kind of speed difference (if any) can be expected from a new bike? I know there's some weight difference, but not a whole lot. Are they significantly more aerodynamic? Or will I basically just have a shinier, flashier toy?
I do some racing and triathlons, but not enough to get a dedicated tri-bike and will probably avoid an all-carbon ride.
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No difference other than a shiny new bike.
If you're willing to spend many times over your budget, you can get an aero frame that can save a few watts.
But getting a new bike is satisfying for other reasons
If you're willing to spend many times over your budget, you can get an aero frame that can save a few watts.
But getting a new bike is satisfying for other reasons
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#6
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The things that could make a difference would be:
-significant weight decrease...helps mostly on climbs, not as much on flats.
-aero wheels/frame...most difference at high speeds...still less effective than bending over a bit more
-more forward, low position...more benifit than expensive frame or wheels.
-a significant difference in stiffness at the bottom bracket area will translate to more power getting to the drive wheel.
-significant weight decrease...helps mostly on climbs, not as much on flats.
-aero wheels/frame...most difference at high speeds...still less effective than bending over a bit more
-more forward, low position...more benifit than expensive frame or wheels.
-a significant difference in stiffness at the bottom bracket area will translate to more power getting to the drive wheel.
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Upgrading wheels (I'm not sure what the choices are for 9 speed) might make you happy. I'm guessing the bike is in the 20 pound range. A new bike that doesn't break the bank might get you a 17 lb bike. But you could lose 3 lbs and get similar effect. Lighter wheel rims, however, can help acceleration and hill climbing. And there are good wheels in the $500 range.
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I am impressed so far that the 41 has dealt with this honest question in a useful and polite fashion. Lots of good suggestions above. If this continues I will know that the apocalypse is nigh.
Seriously though a couple of thoughts for the OP. A new bike is always nice and for the budget you will get something that shifts and stops better and hopefully fits you better than what you have now. How much better? Well you will have to try it out and let us know. Faster? perhaps not so much. The Trek 2000 is a very capable machine although at the low end of the scale for components. You might see a few tenths increase in your average speed but not really enough to make a lot of difference.
Carbon forks are generally more forgiving on rough roads and smooth out the ride.
"Responsiveness" generally refers to something that works better all around. Shifts better, accelerates faster, stops more quickly, is more stable in turns etc. Generally more fun to ride.
If you hang around here much, you will see that most members love to "buy more **** that we don't need". Welcome to the club and beware the addiction.
Seriously though a couple of thoughts for the OP. A new bike is always nice and for the budget you will get something that shifts and stops better and hopefully fits you better than what you have now. How much better? Well you will have to try it out and let us know. Faster? perhaps not so much. The Trek 2000 is a very capable machine although at the low end of the scale for components. You might see a few tenths increase in your average speed but not really enough to make a lot of difference.
Carbon forks are generally more forgiving on rough roads and smooth out the ride.
"Responsiveness" generally refers to something that works better all around. Shifts better, accelerates faster, stops more quickly, is more stable in turns etc. Generally more fun to ride.
If you hang around here much, you will see that most members love to "buy more **** that we don't need". Welcome to the club and beware the addiction.
#12
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The things that could make a difference would be:
-significant weight decrease...helps mostly on climbs, not as much on flats.
-aero wheels/frame...most difference at high speeds...still less effective than bending over a bit more
-more forward, low position...more benifit than expensive frame or wheels.
-a significant difference in stiffness at the bottom bracket area will translate to more power getting to the drive wheel.
-significant weight decrease...helps mostly on climbs, not as much on flats.
-aero wheels/frame...most difference at high speeds...still less effective than bending over a bit more
-more forward, low position...more benifit than expensive frame or wheels.
-a significant difference in stiffness at the bottom bracket area will translate to more power getting to the drive wheel.
Aero wheels and frame - compared to the drag from the rider, pretty small difference
Different position - can make you more aero, but can you do the same with your Trek 2000?
Stiffness translating to more power? Never quantified or proven that I know of
I'd be prone to keeping the Trek and saving the $$
Last edited by Point; 08-31-15 at 08:13 PM. Reason: Typo
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For $2K, probably not much different, maybe not even as fast. For that kind of money, I'd be tempted to try some new, higher end wheels on the Trek 2000. Something to consider.
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Personally, I'd get a powermeter first and implement a structured training program. That will be of more benefit, albeit harder, than buying a new bike.
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Chain and cranks are fresh and clean, bearings are greased and smooth, you're not at the end of a frayed brake cable, shifts like its new. Of course you could always clean your stuff, maintain and grease it, replace cables and pads. You also get different types to choose from and whatever other real advances over the past decade in materials and design.
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The financial placebo effect will make you feel faster but you will not actually be any faster.
#17
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Additional thought: a new bike could have a better/more comfortable geometry for you, which would/could result in more speed. I noted this when I switched from my Defy 1 to my Domane 4.5. Between the better fit and the dampening of the road from the carbon frame and iso-coupler, all of my strava times skyrocketed.
Other than that, all the other things people are say are true: ride more, get faster.
Other than that, all the other things people are say are true: ride more, get faster.
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Additional thought: a new bike could have a better/more comfortable geometry for you, which would/could result in more speed. I noted this when I switched from my Defy 1 to my Domane 4.5. Between the better fit and the dampening of the road from the carbon frame and iso-coupler, all of my strava times skyrocketed.
Other than that, all the other things people are say are true: ride more, get faster.
Other than that, all the other things people are say are true: ride more, get faster.
Ah, heck, buy an upgrade, if you've had the bike for 15 years, you're due for a new one.
If you bought used, then buy a 2012-2013 used CF bike (or CAAD or Smartweld, top of the line AL allow) that has a more race/aero geometry. And then spend some money on some really good wheels. A power meter and HRM would help you train better, so you could get faster, quicker.
Start road testing some new bikes to figure out what you want in a new (or new to you) bike. Since you have a bike, you don't have to be in a hurry to buy. Road test 3-4 in your budget. If none of them really speak to you, then save your money. But by road testing 3-4 new bikes in your budget, you'll then know if a new to you bike that is gently used is really speaking to you. Look for good deals. If you see one, road test it. If it speaks to you, then buy it. Otherwise, pass on it, and wait for one that does speak to you.
Have you decided whether you're going to keep your current bike and use it as a rain/commuter/need to run errands and lock it somewhere where it could get stolen bike? Or sell it. If you sell it, it could help you pay for some new wheels. If you keep it, you'll have a bike that you don't care if it gets wet or stolen.
Most bikes can have the tri-aero-bars mounted on them, so you don't need a tri-bike.
GH
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If everything is working as it should, I say get a new set of wheels, Shimarno RS81 or DA, run 25mm tires on it.
At least that's what I want to do with my 14 yr old bike
At least that's what I want to do with my 14 yr old bike
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If you're doing triathlons, your most cost-effective upgrades are aerobars, aero helmet, forward seat post, and a rear wheel cover. And upgrading the engine, of course.