nrsmd

This tire claims less rolling resistance than the 4000. Is it wishful thinking that the same energy I put out for both tires will translate to a higher speed (MPH) with the 5000 than with the 4000? In other words, is it worth moving up to these tires if increasing speed is my goal?

mstateglfr 

Lower rolling resistance means less energy lost on tires rolling means faster speed.
Will you be able isolate the different and notice a few extra watts?...No idea. I cant, but maybe you are more in tune with your riding.

AdkMtnMonster

Marginal gains add up if enough if them can be strung together simultaneously. 4000 to 5000 is not likely to put you on the podium, but the 5000 is a nice riding tire. I thought it had less road vibration than the 4000,but I think it could have been my imagination.

ClydeClydeson

If the 4000 absorbs 10 watts at certain conditions, and the 5000 absorbs 9 watts at the same conditions, Conti can honestly report that the new tires have 10% less resistance, but you only have a net gain of 1 watt - you'll get better gains with an aero seatpost or by tying your shift cable housings together in front of the frame..

Remember that rolling resistance is only a tiny piece of the total resistance to movement, and is relatively tinier the faster you go.

Wait until your GP4000s are worn out before you change.

Happy Feet

+1 for the above.

I have GP 5000's. They replaced my 4000's when they wore out. I wouldn't switch one for the other before that. I just see it as the next gen of that series with whatever upgrade they've come up with in between but nothing earth shattering.

bblair

From my extensive review of the literature, the marginal gains using optimum tire pressure, rolling resistance and aero rims, might, in ideal situations, get me to first in line at the rest stop porta-john. But if my rain jacket flaps too much, I'll have to find a tree.

It's getting kind of ridiculous for recreational riders, don't ya think?

pickysoul

GP 5000 gets puncture easilier than 4000. try Pirelli Pzero,dude.

Iride01 

Does Continental even make the 4000 any more? If you still find them, they are just NOS.

If you stock up on old stock, then you'll be living in the past longer when even better tires come out.

shelbyfv

That's good to know, I was unaware. The 5000s seem true to size while the 4000s were often larger than nominal. Other than that, I can't tell a difference. Nice tires, both.

AdkMtnMonster

That’s laughablier untruly.

i have nearly 10k miles on a front GP5000 with zero flats, and I rode a rear all the way down to the cords last year with only one punch flat, which was 100% MY fault for nailing a smallish pothole @ ~54mph. 5000s are TOUGH meats that ride great.

terrymorse 

Very little difference in puncture resistance between these models, per bicyclerollingresistance.com:

Tire model - rolling resistance - puncture score
PIrelli P Zero Velo - 13.2 - 54
Continental Grand Prix 5000 - 10.7 - 49
Continental Grand Prix 4000S II - 12.9 - 52

msu2001la

It's 1000 better.

icemilkcoffee 

FWIW I always have trouble mounting 5000's on every rim I've tried. The 4000s II is noticeably easier to mount.

Barry2 

+1
5000's are t.i.g.h.t !!!!!

As per other thread, Parachute Cord is your friend

Barry

Iride01 

Tubeless or tubed version of 5000's are harder to mount?

I've no experience with the tubeless version, but the tubed version of the GP 5000 are some of the easiest to mount or remove. No levers needed.

There is only room in the spoke channel for one tire bead. So make sure you push the bead of the already installed side out of the spoke channel as you push the other into it.

Nessism

4000's in the 700x25c size are noticeably larger than a 5000. I learned that because with 4000's there is very little clearance between my fork and tire but with the 5000 there is several mm's more clearance. That may be a contributor to the 4000's having more rolling resistance.

Tomm Willians

Keep in mind that saying one tire is more puncture resistant than the other is just a consideration. I’ve run GP5000’s on three different bikes for two years with zero flats. While I’ve no doubt the 4000 is more resistant, the 5000 has proven itself good enough in that category. At least on the routes I ride.

Jrasero

While I can contest that GP5000 are awesome tires, they aren't worth upgrading if your GP4000 are in good shape since a set of GP5000 aren't cheap

MrWasabi

How are the GP5000s on less then perfect pavement and hardpack?

Hiro11

To answer the OPs question: no, it's not worth it. When your tires wear out,just buy the 5000s then.

Personally, I'm currently on my second set of 28mm GP5000TLs. I weigh about 165 and I run them tubeless on hooked carbon rims at about 75psi in the front and 77psi in the back. Despite their reputation for tightness, I can mount them on these rims with my hands. I got at least 4.5k miles on the first set with no punctures (none at least that I noticed). I probably threw out the first set a bit early to be honest. The second set is going strong at 4K miles on our terrible Illinois roads. Incredible tires in all respects: grip, ride, speed, reliability, durability. I have another set in storage already for when these wear out. I'm sure other tires are also great, but why mess with what works.

dmanthree

I just mounted a pair on Roval SLX 24 wheels last weekend with no issues. No tools needed to get them on.

rsbob 

I have Conti 5000 tubed on one bike and tubeless on the other. Neither are any more difficult to mount than any other Conti tire. A couple of tire levers and you should be good. My tubeless are as easy as tubed but it could be my rims too.

diphthong

was avoiding riding on hard-packed gravel/dirt with the conti gp 5k's originally with the first pair. since then, they've been slapped on all four road bikes,
dirt is fair game. pavement in metro san diego is hit or miss. either pretty dayum smooth or why hasn't this repaved in a decade?!
tires have held up well w/o issues or flats while riding tubed. maybe i'm just lucky x 4...

MrWasabi

Thanks for the input. I'll be running mine with tubes on mostly paved MUPs/trails and some FL hardpack.

Troul 

I have yet to go 4,000 miles without a flat on the c4k, I highly doubt I could go 5,000 miles before a flat when using the c5k tires.