antbarron

All, I know there are a couple threads on this already, but I can cut right to it:

I have a new SRAM Red 22 crankset which has an OD on the NDS of 21.9 and I have a new SRAM GXP Pressfit (BB86) BB which has a NDS bearing with ID of 22.2.

No amount of grease, spacers or whatever is going to take out that slop.

Does anyone have an idea as to why the measurements are so far off?

scott967

Love or hate Hambini, but I don't think he is a fan of SRAM manufacturing tolerances.

scott s.
.

woodcraft

I have a GXP crank on hand, & get about those same measurements,

and also have one in service- when it's torqued down, you don't feel any play and I hadn't noticed the issue before this.

Definitely a question in need of an answer.

RNAV

Where, exactly, on the NDS are you taking your measurement? Have you installed it with the correct amount of spacers + wave washer and torqued to spec and found there to be play?

antbarron

On the spindle, where the splines end, there is a clear step from (what should be) 22mm to 24mm. I am taking my measurement there. I also feel that the inner race of the NDS bearing is quite deep so even if there was +- 1mm width difference in the bb shell or something, it shouldn't make a difference.

There is visible (and audible!) movement from the left arm when everything is installed and torqued.

Yes, I have tried with and without the wave washer on the DS. And I have REALLY cranked it down hard. But I fail to see how all that will help. The spindle is under 22mm and the bearing is over 22mm. The movement is up and down, not side to side. I'll do a quick YouTube vid tomorrow..

Any thoughts welcome tho as now I have to remove the SRAM BB and schlep back to Shimano :/

RNAV

Don’t go Shimano, lol! Sounds like you’re doing it right. Have you contacted SRAM support? I’d start there, then consider returning the BB for a replacement. Otherwise, you could try a couple wraps of electrical tape on the NDS (use a razor to cut away anything covering the splines) to make up the .03 mm difference.

antbarron

This is interesting as i saw something similar on another thread. Hopefully I'm doing something wrong. I'll take a vid and post a link tomorrow.

woodcraft

I don't think you're doing anything wrong.

Maybe the P in GXP is for 'play'

Lazyass

I bought a used CX bike with SRAM GXP. I could not get the slop out and even thought it was a low mile bike I figured the BB was shot so I bought a new one. Same thing. Did some research and learned that, basically, SRAM sucks and many people have the same issue. I ended up ditching them for some Race Face Cadence cranks I had.

antbarron

All,

I took a video but I am not allowed to post a link here until I have made 10 posts or more (kind of a weird rule). So, as I don't want to make the video public, you can't see it till later.

SRAM:
- Initially said they would replace the bb no problem, just bring it to a dealer
- Then told the dealer they needed a video of the assembled bike (which I sent)
- Did not watch the video and told the dealer that the whole bike had to be in the store assembled for them to consider this
- I then spoke to a helpful agent who watched the video and encouraged me to reinstall everything with a massive amount of grease and torque...

antbarron

Update:

That did the trick (**** loads of grease, esp on the left side, and very hard torquing indeed).

However, then the crank didn't spin well at all.

The tech at SRAM said to remove the right side washer (but not the wave washer). That did the trick and the cranks spin well.

I still have a creaky shell which is why I switched to SRAM in the first place, but I'm no worse off...

Good luck all!!!