Front axle issue
05-21-22, 07:19 PM
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Front axle issue
I purchased 2 different brand mountain bikes.
I set the wheel in the brake caliper and axles holder however the opposite side then doesn’t line up. Off by quiet a bit. If I force it, the rotor rubs on the caliper and the wheel doesn’t spin freely.
i tried posting pictures but they aren’t taking.
thank you in advance for any help.
I set the wheel in the brake caliper and axles holder however the opposite side then doesn’t line up. Off by quiet a bit. If I force it, the rotor rubs on the caliper and the wheel doesn’t spin freely.
i tried posting pictures but they aren’t taking.
thank you in advance for any help.
05-21-22, 07:47 PM
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Generally one will set the wheel/axle's position in the fork (that has axle holders that we call drop outs) using the weight of the bike pushing the axle up and into the drop outs as full as gravity allows for. Then the securement device (QR skewer, axle nuts, through axle) is tightened to hold this position. Only then does the brake adjustment begin. To begin the caliper centering and initial adjustment many will squeeze the lever so that the pads are lightly gripping the rotor, with the caliper mounting bolts just loose enough to allow for the caliper to "float" into position. Hold the lever while lightly snugging down the caliper mounting bolts. This usually gets the caliper pretty close to centered. Minor "walking" of the caliper in or out by loosening only one bolt, the not loose bolt acts as a hinge. By walking the caliper at one end than the other end one can make very small centering and aligning corrections.
There's a few reasons why a wheel might shift from that position and through axles are meant to reduce this chance of non repeatability of wheel position. With axle nuts or a common QR skewer the operator has to control this positioning each time the wheel is reinstalled.
Yes, there's some skill, focus and technique in doing this. Yes, the grade of the bike and the design of how the wheel is secured can make this harder or easier to do. Since we have no understanding of the bikes involved or their designs WRT the fork drop outs and wheel securement we can't really say much more specific to the bikes involved. Andy
There's a few reasons why a wheel might shift from that position and through axles are meant to reduce this chance of non repeatability of wheel position. With axle nuts or a common QR skewer the operator has to control this positioning each time the wheel is reinstalled.
Yes, there's some skill, focus and technique in doing this. Yes, the grade of the bike and the design of how the wheel is secured can make this harder or easier to do. Since we have no understanding of the bikes involved or their designs WRT the fork drop outs and wheel securement we can't really say much more specific to the bikes involved. Andy
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Last edited by Andrew R Stewart; 05-21-22 at 07:50 PM.
05-21-22, 07:54 PM
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Thank you Andy.
1 is a schwinn Sidewinder the other is a mongoose.
I got a bit upset with it and stopped today, however I will try in the morning to loosen the caliper and try again. Being new I cannot attach photo’s. However I just felt they aren’t lining up correct.
not being one of many patients didn’t help me today.
1 is a schwinn Sidewinder the other is a mongoose.
I got a bit upset with it and stopped today, however I will try in the morning to loosen the caliper and try again. Being new I cannot attach photo’s. However I just felt they aren’t lining up correct.
not being one of many patients didn’t help me today.
Generally one will set the wheel/axle's position in the fork (that has axle holders that we call drop outs) using the weight of the bike pushing the axle up and into the drop outs as full as gravity allows for. Then the securement device (QR skewer, axle nuts, through axle) is tightened to hold this position. Only then does the brake adjustment begin. To begin the caliper centering and initial adjustment many will squeeze the lever so that the pads are lightly gripping the rotor, with the caliper mounting bolts just loose enough to allow for the caliper to "float" into position. Hold the lever while lightly snugging down the caliper mounting bolts. This usually gets the caliper pretty close to centered. Minor "walking" of the caliper in or out by loosening only one bolt, the not loose bolt acts as a hinge. By walking the caliper at one end than the other end one can make very small centering and aligning corrections.
There's a few reasons why a wheel might shift from that position and through axles are meant to reduce this chance of non repeatability of wheel position. With axle nuts or a common QR skewer the operator has to control this positioning each time the wheel is reinstalled.
Yes, there's some skill, focus and technique in doing this. Yes, the grade of the bike and the design of how the wheel is secured can make this harder or easier to do. Since we have no understanding of the bikes involved or their designs WRT the fork drop outs and wheel securement we can't really say much more specific to the bikes involved. Andy
There's a few reasons why a wheel might shift from that position and through axles are meant to reduce this chance of non repeatability of wheel position. With axle nuts or a common QR skewer the operator has to control this positioning each time the wheel is reinstalled.
Yes, there's some skill, focus and technique in doing this. Yes, the grade of the bike and the design of how the wheel is secured can make this harder or easier to do. Since we have no understanding of the bikes involved or their designs WRT the fork drop outs and wheel securement we can't really say much more specific to the bikes involved. Andy
05-21-22, 07:59 PM
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If this is happening on both bikes, I think it’s user error. Go to YouTube and watch some thru-axle how-to videos. Then watch some disc brake videos. It’s far easier to imitate what you see there than to interpret a written description of what you’re supposed to do.
05-21-22, 08:08 PM
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05-21-22, 09:03 PM
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05-22-22, 01:33 PM
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I gave in.
Thank you to all for the advice. Found a local shop who was open today and brought him both bikes.
Can now safely say it wasn’t all my fault. Lol
one was operator error, but the other was just completely off.
they are taking care of both to make things easier. Guess the fairy tale is correct, some things are best left to the professionals. 😊
thank you again everyone.
Can now safely say it wasn’t all my fault. Lol
one was operator error, but the other was just completely off.
they are taking care of both to make things easier. Guess the fairy tale is correct, some things are best left to the professionals. 😊
thank you again everyone.
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05-22-22, 02:17 PM
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It'd really help others in the future if you gave more details of what those issues were. Even the operator error. Then maybe you won't get someone twenty years from now awakening your long sleeping thread asking what actually was done to fix it.
Welcome to BF!
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