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Clunker 100 Challenge #8

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Clunker 100 Challenge #8

Old 04-21-22, 01:33 AM
  #101  
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Originally Posted by jdawginsc View Post
Do you do anything special to get it working so well?
I'm still kind of experimenting with that. This is the third frame I've used it on, and I'm doing less each time. This time as an experiment I scuffed the top tube up quickly with some coarse sandpaper, but didn't touch the down tube or head tube. As you can see, the sanding wasn't necessary in this case. I have a theory that there is some correlation between how well the paint bonded to the frame and how much prep is needed. On my 1973 Nishiki, the paint on the frame softened but didn't blister like this, but on the fork it blistered easily. This stuff takes paint off of chrome like it wasn't even stuck on there to begin with.

For the second picture earlier I just wiped it off with a shop rag -- nothing abrasive. I put on a second coat this morning and got most of the places I missed last night. After wiping with shop rags again, I went over it with a dry Scrub Daddy sponge, and that took most of what was left.


I discovered tonight one embarrassing thing tonight. The paint on the drive side chain stay just wasn't coming off at all -- not even a bubble. Then I scraped at it a bit with a plastic putty knife and that didn't scratch it. Can you guess why? Yeah, there was a clear stick-on chain stay protector. You can even see it in one of the pictures I posted yesterday. I didn't notice it.

When it's nearly done I'll use a wire brush on a Dremel tool to clean up the tight spots and anything else that's still there. It looks like I'm only going to need to sand to get rid of the rust and prep the surface for primer.
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Old 04-21-22, 02:47 AM
  #102  
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That’s good to see work. I like keeping toxic chemicals to a minimum..


Originally Posted by Andy_K View Post
I'm still kind of experimenting with that. This is the third frame I've used it on, and I'm doing less each time. This time as an experiment I scuffed the top tube up quickly with some coarse sandpaper, but didn't touch the down tube or head tube. As you can see, the sanding wasn't necessary in this case. I have a theory that there is some correlation between how well the paint bonded to the frame and how much prep is needed. On my 1973 Nishiki, the paint on the frame softened but didn't blister like this, but on the fork it blistered easily. This stuff takes paint off of chrome like it wasn't even stuck on there to begin with.

For the second picture earlier I just wiped it off with a shop rag -- nothing abrasive. I put on a second coat this morning and got most of the places I missed last night. After wiping with shop rags again, I went over it with a dry Scrub Daddy sponge, and that took most of what was left.


I discovered tonight one embarrassing thing tonight. The paint on the drive side chain stay just wasn't coming off at all -- not even a bubble. Then I scraped at it a bit with a plastic putty knife and that didn't scratch it. Can you guess why? Yeah, there was a clear stick-on chain stay protector. You can even see it in one of the pictures I posted yesterday. I didn't notice it.

When it's nearly done I'll use a wire brush on a Dremel tool to clean up the tight spots and anything else that's still there. It looks like I'm only going to need to sand to get rid of the rust and prep the surface for primer.
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Old 04-21-22, 04:25 PM
  #103  
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I managed to squeeze in some time on my Peugeot project in the last few days. Here’s the as found pic again:



Cost to me was $50, and I’ve sold off the pump, saddle, hubs, and brakeset for $126, so I guess I have a $76 credit (plus a $108 budget? Not quite sure how the accounting works). I had to drill out the cotters, unfortunately:



But otherwise the frame cleaned up reasonably well:






Current build concept is a single speed porteur with 27” wheels, coaster brake and front rack. I’ll likely re-use the BB and crank arms with single alloy ring. I have a rim and rear hub on order.
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Old 04-21-22, 05:45 PM
  #104  
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Dang, you guys have vision...!
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Old 04-21-22, 07:36 PM
  #105  
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Very nice weather today so got some more work done on the Motive. Turns out the tires were bad looked good but failed after about five miles so replaced them with used junk set of Kendas and patched tubes and put on nice used 7 speed freewheel from my parts bin so figure another $25 so I'm pretty much at budget about $100 total. So it looks like other than some additional cleanup and service I'm will be going going with a single speed/screw driver gear change for this one and will just have to he-man 90 miles or so on back roads and dirt trails to complete the challenge. Bike actually rides pretty good and the frame is nice so ounce the challenge is done good chance I will put a proper 8 or 9 speed drive train on the bike.Did get a short ride into town to the library for another 5 miles or so.



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Old 04-21-22, 07:38 PM
  #106  
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Originally Posted by jdawginsc View Post
Dang, you guys have vision...!
That sounds so much nicer than telling me that I'm hallucinating.

I'm hitting a wall here. Attempting to build a front wheel is going to send this project in a different direction. I have hubs, rims some spokes and a fork that do not fit neatly together in my Venn diagram.

The difficulty stems (no pun intended), from the fork being spaced to 90mm. I really think that attempting to spread it 10mm would be pushing it too far. I have a rim that I'd like to use that has an ERD of 584, and a hub that I could lace it to that is made for 90mm. The problem is that the spokes need to be 285mm - which is out of stock here. Alternative 2 would seem to be replacing the fork, which has a 1" diameter steerer that is 5-3/4" long... which is also out of stock.

Sooo... Plan C involves compromising on the wheelset entirely and going with what I pilfered from a Ladies' 1970 Raleigh Sports that I picked up in a thrift store in Bellvue, KY about 5 years back for $20.00. The wheels are chromed steel, heavy, and there's no way I'll be able to remove every single hint of rust that long-ago set in beneath the rim strips, but the rear is a 3-speed coaster brake, the rim diameter matches that of those Kurt sent me, they spin pretty well, and even if I can't get them any truer, they're not too far out. One way or another, those yellow fenders are going on this baby, and at some point beyond the challenge the wheels are going to change.
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Old 04-21-22, 07:39 PM
  #107  
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Originally Posted by zukahn1 View Post
...


Looks like it should be tethered to a hitching post.
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Old 04-21-22, 08:31 PM
  #108  
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I rode over 1000 miles last summer easy on a 1973 Huffy Scout I paid $3 for at a garage-sale in the spring. I put $5 worth of used tires on it, about $6 worth of new brake pads and maybe $3 worth of new spokes. Also put a new chain on it that was surprisingly cheap at about $7. So that is $24. I did spend time cleaning and lubing the moving parts of the bike,bearings, lubed the cables etc.. Trued the wheels of course. the only part I replaced besides the tires was I swapped another old seat onto it because the seat I got with it was missing large chunks of it's cover and padding so half the metal pan was showing and it would have hurt my butt. I even played with the old combination lock on the bike until I cracked it's code and used it. I am sure I will put hundreds of more miles on it this year. Is this the type of bike this thread had in mind?

Last edited by beng1; 04-22-22 at 06:58 PM. Reason: add photo, fix typos
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Old 04-21-22, 09:08 PM
  #109  
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Originally Posted by beng1 View Post
Is this the type of bike this thread had in mind?
Yes. With the Clunker Challenge you get points for lucky scores on nice bikes, but you also get credit for riding total garbage.
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Old 04-21-22, 09:19 PM
  #110  
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Klunkery Illustrative Assistance

Originally Posted by beng1 View Post
I rode over 1000 miles last summer easy on a 1973 Huffy Scout I paid $3 for at a garage-sale in the spring. I put $5 worth of used tires on it, about $6 worth of new brake pads and maybe $3 worth of new spokes. Also put a new chain on it that was surprisingly cheap at about $7. So that is $24. I did spend time cleaning and lubing the moving parts of the bike,bearings, lubed the cables etc.. Trued the wheels of course. the only part I replaced besides the tires was I swapped another old seat onto it because the seat I got with it was missing large chunks of it's cover and padding so half the metal pan was showing and it would have hurt by butt. I even played with the old combination lock on the bike until I cracked it's code and used it. I am sure I will put hundreds of more miles on it this year. Is this the type of bike this thread had in mind?
Originally Posted by Clang View Post
Yes. With the Clunker Challenge you get points for lucky scores on nice bikes, but you also get credit for riding total garbage.






OP's Album.
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Old 04-21-22, 11:14 PM
  #111  
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Originally Posted by machinist42 View Post
Klunkery Illustrative Assistance


What's wrong with this one? That spoke protector...
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Old 04-22-22, 12:55 AM
  #112  
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Originally Posted by droppedandlost View Post
What's wrong with this one? That spoke protector...
It goes nicely with the bash guard on the crank.
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Old 04-22-22, 01:09 AM
  #113  
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I (more or less) finished stripping the paint from the frame on the Centurion.





It frees the rust to express itself without the distraction of the surrounding paint. Next, it was on to the fork.







Tonight I've been working on sanding the rust off of the frame. That's a very satisfying process. It's just about done, but I'm going to leave it until tomorrow to take pictures of that.
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Old 04-22-22, 04:52 AM
  #114  
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Originally Posted by RandolphCarter View Post
Question for Glorious Fearless Leader Narhay:

Is the Raleigh Eclipse build that I failed to complete last year a candidate to enter for this year?

haven't touched it since I gave up on it.
Sure
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Old 04-22-22, 07:41 AM
  #115  
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The weather is finally nice.
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Old 04-22-22, 09:26 AM
  #116  
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BB is fine😂

I’ve never see a BB-CS20 before. I came out of my Schwinn Impact Pro easily which is a plus. It is not real crunchy but it does bind every couple of rotations in the hand. I removed the seals, dripped in some Liquid Wrench followed by 3-in-1 for no noticeable improvement. The sockets required for adjusting must come in the same set as those required to adjust PD-M324 pedals. Cool thing is that when I reinstalled the BB and put on the cranks, it spun A-OK.


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Old 04-22-22, 09:37 AM
  #117  
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Originally Posted by Andy_K View Post
It frees the rust to express itself without the distraction of the surrounding paint. Next, it was on to the fork.
It rubs the Citri-strip on it's skin!
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Old 04-22-22, 10:04 AM
  #118  
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First ride of the year, 14 miles done. Getting better with the dt shifters.

at the Redwall castle. Took me a while to find it.

Seat could be raised some. I tried to remove the stem spacers last night but they are stuck. Could do without the pedal reflectors, "dork disk" and kickstand.

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Old 04-22-22, 10:10 AM
  #119  
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Well, I unwrapped the mummified in Evapo-Rust-soaked cloth LeTour to find ... very little difference. Certainly not photographable - but it feels slightly less crusty. I think some sandpaper is in the bike's future, but I've talked myself out of repainting it. I hope to find some time this weekend to do some more cleaning, and then begin repacking and reassembling the bike.

I'll be interested in seeing what the brake lever hoods are like under the electrician's tape. I actually have a set of suitable hoods I pulled off the mismatched levers that came on last year's first Clunker Challenge entry, the '86 Cannondale - but they, along with the pedals I think I want to use, are at the back of the storage unit, and probably in the bottom box of the stack. I'll probably spend as much time getting to them and then putting everything back as I'll need to repack all the bearings.

I'm amused when I remind myself I will probably spend more on a set of decent tires for this project than on everything else involved!

No pix today - maybe later ...
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Old 04-22-22, 10:11 AM
  #120  
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Originally Posted by jdawginsc View Post
It rubs the Citri-strip on it's skin!


This is easily my favorite comment of the thread so far.
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Old 04-22-22, 06:59 PM
  #121  
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Originally Posted by Clang View Post
Yes. With the Clunker Challenge you get points for lucky scores on nice bikes, but you also get credit for riding total garbage.
What makes a bike total garbage?
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Old 04-22-22, 07:03 PM
  #122  
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Originally Posted by machinist42 View Post
I don't understand how all the photos of my yellow bike ended up here. Yesterday when I tried to upload them it said I could not do it unless I had more posts or something, then today I log in and take a look at the thread and there they are. These computers are sure a double-edged sword.
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Old 04-22-22, 07:52 PM
  #123  
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Originally Posted by beng1 View Post
What makes a bike total garbage?
Here's something from the first thread that spring to mind: a literal dumpstered bike with a chain rusted into a rigid zig-zag pattern and Pacific Northwest moss sprouting on it.

Originally Posted by Lascauxcaveman View Post
Just so you guys know you've got some worthy competition: I think my recent dumpster-sourced MTB is dead center in the spirit of this contest. It's my intention to turn this into a serviceable drop bar tourer.

For your consideration, a 1990 Redline Thirty (no, I've never heard of such a thing either)

(pls note the abstract masterpiece of rusted-in-time chainline. How does this even happen?)

Let's take a quick look inside the bottom bracket, just to make sure everything is in order there, shall we? Very good. I'd say this is up to standard.

RustyParts

Freewheel frozen stationary on the hub? Check.
Derailleur snaps into two pieces when removal is attempted? Check.
Possible areas to consider upgrading: freewheel, rear derailleur. Maybe the chain, too.


Once removed, the crankset feels a bit heavy compared to my better triples I have waiting in my parts bins. But underneath that silver-colored umm.... paint? powdercoat? ...is a functional crank that can be re-used.


Green (?) anodized rims? Was this a thing, back in 1990? Anyway, the front rim is true enough to reuse. We'll see about the back rim, if we can get the rusty axle free enough to spin.


Significant growths of moss are to be expected in my damp corner of the USA. Otherwise, one would suspect this bike has been coddled, safely tucked away in a woodshed, carport or hen house all these years


I've started cleaning it up tonight. Cash outlay so far: $0.00
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Old 04-22-22, 08:26 PM
  #124  
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\
Originally Posted by beng1 View Post
What makes a bike total garbage?
Hard to say but for starters if you got it out of a dunbster or trash sure yet... Pretty much got eliminated in the challenge prior yearsr for bikes that were too good. My last entry a trash bin find Schwinn Mesa GSX just was great but didn't really hit the meaning of the challenge
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Old 04-22-22, 08:36 PM
  #125  
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Originally Posted by beng1 View Post
What makes a bike total garbage?
I own it….
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