justonwo

So I bought a new set of wheels to replace my non-tubeless wheels for my Aethos. I’m getting tired of flats.

The procedure for swapping over the cassette seems simple enough, but there are differing instructions about the subtleties, depending on your source.

This is a new Dura Ace 12 speed cassette going onto a Roval wheelset with the HG freehub. Nothing complicated.

1) Is there any consensus on applying a light film of grease on the outside of the freehub body? I’ve noticed the shops that have built up my bikes have typically applied a small film of grease to the freehub body to prevent corrosion and to make removing the cogs easier.

2) The shop I bought the wheels from said to apply Loctite to the lockring. This goes against everything I’ve read about cassette installation. To me, it makes more sense to grease, per the recommendation of most reputable sources, and tighten to torque.

3) Are there any miscellaneous washers, gaskets, or other parts on the cassette that I should be aware of? I know there are some spacers between cogs (I’ll be sure not to screw up the order). Any other parts I need to look out for as I remove the cassette from the old wheels?

I have Finish Line Teflon grease. I assume that will work fine for the freehub body and lockring?

Barry2 

I just installed the same 12sp cassette, greased the lock ring, nothing else.
40Nm (29’lb) and you’ll be fine.

There is a thin silver shim bonded to the rear of the largest spider. Just leave it there.

Don’t forget to test shifting before you ride it!
Last thing you need is to drop the chain between the cassette and spokes on the new wheels.

Barry

cxwrench

I never put grease on free hubs. It can't hurt putting a little on so whatever floats your boat, I just don't see the need.
Never put loctite on the lockring. That's just stupid...it's supposed to be pretty tight, definitely doesn't need any help if properly tightened.
No, put the cassette on as it comes out of the box.

justonwo

Barry, do you have a preferred grease?

Di2 12 speed has been operating flawlessly. Only small nitpick is that the front caliper makes sort of a pulsing sound when braking. Sort of a machine gun frequency but very soft. I can’t find any sort of unevenness on the rotor and the rotor is true.

Barry2 

For Grease I use either some old black slop I've had for years, or if I can reach it easier a Copper Anti-Seize Lubricant.
Who cares what grease.... You're going to remove the cassette in 1000 miles and clean it........ right!

Brakes, are we talking MG42 fast or just Tommy fast?
Clean the rotor with IPA.
Not the beer,
Isopropyl alcohol (The rubbing stuff, (90%+ if you can get it easily)

Di2

Barry

cxwrench

Make sure the caliper is parallel to the rotor.

justonwo

That has never worked for me for brake issues. Done it many times over the years. But I’ll give it a shot.

Yes, perfectly parallel. Exactly centered. No runout.

Barry2 

Thats my best guess. I recommend you don’t do it, based on your experience.
Either way, it’s not my brakes!

or

its cheap, quick, easy, so give it a go and cross it off the list.

justonwo

Yep, cleaned the rotors and the pads with IPA till no more gunk came off. Didn't fix the issue, sadly.

A couple of observations:

1) The metal clip doesn't fit snug around the pad like, say the SRAM clip would (where it actually holds the pads in place). I could imagine some kind of movement in the pads against the tips of this clip causing some kind of noise.

2) The pads weren't entirely smooth. I almost wonder if there's a little burr on the edge of the pad that is knocking into the edges of the caliper? I couldn't find any burrs or other issues on the rotors.