Ceramic bearings
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Ceramic bearings
A friend just came back from an LBS fitting. While there he had some ceramic wheel bearing installed in his rear wheel. He said that the rear wheel seemed to spin forever when up on the stand and he was told that they are much more durable than stock bearings. When I asked if he could tell the difference on the road he said he wasn't really sure. So, I just got to wondering if anyone here is using them and if you can feel a significant difference on the road.
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I kind of doubt anybody would be able to tell the difference subjectively because bearing drag is such a minor factor compared with aero drag for example. Maybe if you had a Power Tap or something like that you could tell.
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Manufacturer claims 10 -12 watts. Independent testers reckon 2 - 4 watts. Nice to have, but assuming it's 4 watts that's not a huge return on investment unless you're really into the marginal gains thing.
Manufacturer claims 10 -12 watts. Independent testers reckon 2 - 4 watts. Nice to have, but assuming it's 4 watts that's not a huge return on investment unless you're really into the marginal gains thing.
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I have not used them, but the claims are real. Ceramic is harder and smoother than the best steel. Ceramic also improves the life of the races since it eliminated galling from metal-to-metal contact.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Galling
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Galling
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That’s my thought too. I don’t think that improving the wheel bearing’s efficiency will compensate for the remaining friction in the drive train. I understand that the drive train’s friction rob’s 3 -5% of the power. Supposing a rider produced 250 watts of sustained power, the loss of power due to friction in the drive train would be 7.5 to 12.5 watts. Parts that produce friction in the drive train include the chain, bottom bracket bearings, pedal bearings, two jockey pulleys and the wheel bearing. If upgraded wheel bearings could add 12 watts of power the user would have the beginnings of a perpetual motion machine.
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That’s my thought too. I don’t think that improving the wheel bearing’s efficiency will compensate for the remaining friction in the drive train. I understand that the drive train’s friction rob’s 3 -5% of the power. Supposing a rider produced 250 watts of sustained power, the loss of power due to friction in the drive train would be 7.5 to 12.5 watts. Parts that produce friction in the drive train include the chain, bottom bracket bearings, pedal bearings, two jockey pulleys and the wheel bearing. If upgraded wheel bearings could add 12 watts of power the user would have the beginnings of a perpetual motion machine.
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I had my bearings in the bottom bracket replaced with ceramic and I did notice the difference. But I have to turn the crank so I guess it would be easier to feel. That being said it could also be the change from my old bearings. I have noticed as others have said with ceramics in hubs the wheel does seem to spin forever when not under load. And in some non scientific roll down contests on some long down hills it seems as if some of the guys with ceramics are faster and can roll farther. Still even with some high quality cup and cone Dura Ace hubs I have seen wheels spin almost as easily and my Hope road hubs are pretty close.
#9
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Ceramic bearings are designed for high speed and high temperature applications and are smoother than the best steel bearings... the best steel bearings are grade 25 which means they have a variance of 25 millionths of an inch while ceramic bearings can be made to a grade 5 level.
If you run grade 25 steel bearings in your bike you should already have wheels that will spin forever and bearing interfaces that are as smooth as butter on glass if everything is properly adjusted.
One should note that a properly adjusted quality hub (with steel bearings) will also spin forever on the stand.
I don't find that rust and corrosion in bearings is a common problem if a bike is not submerged in the ocean and serviced regularly.
All in all, the benefits of running ceramic bearings might have the most appeal to weight weenies and people who need to save a few watts at racing speeds but normal mortals don't need them... consider that the upgrade to ceramic bearings in your hubs and bottom bracket would cost about $180.00 for a straight bearing replacement and closer to $400.00 if you went with cartridge bearings throughout.
You could also get the same power increase by removing one water bottle from your bike.
If you run grade 25 steel bearings in your bike you should already have wheels that will spin forever and bearing interfaces that are as smooth as butter on glass if everything is properly adjusted.
One should note that a properly adjusted quality hub (with steel bearings) will also spin forever on the stand.
I don't find that rust and corrosion in bearings is a common problem if a bike is not submerged in the ocean and serviced regularly.
All in all, the benefits of running ceramic bearings might have the most appeal to weight weenies and people who need to save a few watts at racing speeds but normal mortals don't need them... consider that the upgrade to ceramic bearings in your hubs and bottom bracket would cost about $180.00 for a straight bearing replacement and closer to $400.00 if you went with cartridge bearings throughout.
You could also get the same power increase by removing one water bottle from your bike.
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Just put Fulcrum red wind XLR dark label with CULT (ceramic) bearings on my Bianchi Infinito. see image.
The bike is faster. 1-2 miles an hour without anymore effort.
I'm really surprised.
The bike is faster. 1-2 miles an hour without anymore effort.
I'm really surprised.
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A ceramic BB will have a big effect when climbing where your wind and rolling resistance are at the lowest so that's where I put them. I would attack the pedals next and then the rear hub followed by the spiders and the the front last.
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I would think that much improvement was mostly psychological or loss of weight in the wallet. If your average speed was 15mph and you went to 16.5mph you would have been loosing 22% of you power to your old wheels.
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I have them on 3 bikes but I'm no faster. Just like the technology.pp
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#15
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I suppose I could cut the bearing losses by using superior cup 'n cone bearings instead of the cartridge bearings in these. But it would not be worth the effort. Ceramics are a waste of money.
#16
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They do offer chrome steel bearing balls in G10 (and maybe G5?). The original Campagnolo balls (NR/SR) were supposed to be better than G25 also.
Not sure that a harder bearing is desireable, at least from race life point of view. I'd sure rather replace the balls than the races in a cup and cone system...
Not sure that a harder bearing is desireable, at least from race life point of view. I'd sure rather replace the balls than the races in a cup and cone system...
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It is a well known fact that a Bianchi in celeste is 5 mph faster than any of the fancy colours they now do them in.
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This issue has been beat to death. Anyway, I had one of my old bikes up on the stand - the wheels featured 30-year old Suntour hubs. Steel bearings obviously. When spun up by hand, the wheels rotated for several minutes. They would have spun a lot longer if it hadn't been for the air friction from 36 spokes. So how much were the mechanical friction losses? A fraction of a watt?
I suppose I could cut the bearing losses by using superior cup 'n cone bearings instead of the cartridge bearings in these. But it would not be worth the effort. Ceramics are a waste of money.
I suppose I could cut the bearing losses by using superior cup 'n cone bearings instead of the cartridge bearings in these. But it would not be worth the effort. Ceramics are a waste of money.
https://www.livestrong.com/article/24...-hub-bearings/
https://www.trails.com/list_30748_bes...-bearings.html
https://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-...ramic-bearings
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I like the fact they have come back with that color on the New Bianchi. I would consider buying a Bianchi frame if I could get the idea past my wife. On my TV the Radio Shack Treks had a color very close to Celeste, but that could simply be the TV even if it is HD. However let it be know I tend to be Blue/Green color blind in the lighter shades.
#21
~>~
Good for keeping the LBS going so you can get a bottle of chain lube or a patch kit when you need it w/o paying for shipping.
If you are concerned w/ hub bearing life/performance when was the last time your hubs were overhauled?
If you have decent quality conventional cup & cone hubs an annual service w/ cleaning & fresh quality grease will "spin forever" as well.
I rode a front hub this AM that I've had since the early '70's, it's probably the smoothest I own.
If I were concerned about a watt or ten I'd lube my chain and check my tire pressure more often.
-Bandera
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I went to see the owner of my LBS today to ask him about ceramic wheel bearings. He is also a friend and sponsor of our local cycling club. His shop is not the one that serviced my friend's wheel bearings. He said ceramic bearings were not worth the cost. He did not know about my friend. So, his remark was not in reaction to anything but my question.
I have a set of Mavic Aksium's that I bought at his shop at the beginning of last year so they have not needed service yet.
I have a set of Mavic Aksium's that I bought at his shop at the beginning of last year so they have not needed service yet.
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#24
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There is a thread in the Mechanics forum about maintaining (removing, cleaning, lubing) the freehub in Mavic wheels, which is an annoyance that is specific to Mavic. But I am not aware of any other maintenance required for wheels. (i.e. "annual service w/ cleaning & fresh quality grease") The "A-class" wheels that came with my bike, don't appear to have any way to take them apart. I'm confused.
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There is a thread in the Mechanics forum about maintaining (removing, cleaning, lubing) the freehub in Mavic wheels, which is an annoyance that is specific to Mavic. But I am not aware of any other maintenance required for wheels. (i.e. "annual service w/ cleaning & fresh quality grease") The "A-class" wheels that came with my bike, don't appear to have any way to take them apart. I'm confused.