xcfang

See photos at imgur link below (and embedded now that I have 10 posts!). I have 2004 Trek 5000 that has been ridden or serviced a bunch for some years. I'd like to remove the bottom bracket, but I'm not sure how. I think it may be a bb-5500 or bb-6500, but not sure. It looks like my BBT-22 fits the non-drive side, but the engagement is really really shallow, and I feel like I'm just going to strip it (a few attempts tells me that). The drive side I can get to move with the bbt-22. The only markings on the bb shows BC1.37 68, which I believe means shell width 68mm, 1.37 english threading. The cranks are shimano fc-6500, 172.5mm.

So, looking for:
1- suggestions on how to remove the bb. Which side do I remove first? Is the bbt-22 the right one for the non-drive side with the really shallow engagement?
2- possible identification of the bb model. Octablink? v1 or v2 or ISIS. It's very confusing out there.


Imgur - link to photos



non-drive side (bbt-22 tool; I can get this side to spin)

drive side (use bbt-22, I believe; but the engagement is terrible with the splines)


fc-6500 cranks




Thanks.

wesmamyke

Bolting the tool in place, or at least using a quick release to hold it in place is a good idea. I generally take off the non-drive side first with these, as that leaves you with the spindle to continue using whatever to hold the tool in place.

Sometimes it doesn't matter if it hasn't been in there long. Pulling the drive side first will leave the non-drive side pretty loose if it was well greased. It's easy to ruin that aluminum non-drive cup if you're not careful though.

Iride01 

Shimano knows how.....

https://si.shimano.com/pdfs/si/SI-16T0B-000-ENG.pdf

https://si.shimano.com/api/publish/s...00-ENG_JPN.pdf

https://si.shimano.com/

cxwrench

Unscrew the cups.

xcfang

Those are good ideas. After removing the non-drive side first, I was able to get the trickier drive side out with a little effort. Luckily, the bb-6500 threads were well-greased. Doesn't look to be serviceable in any way (was hoping I could repack grease around the bearings). Pics for the next guy.

Debating replacing (spindles spin OK, but I'm sure new would be better) or just re-greasing and re-installing. Are there modern day options that work with my cranks (guessing no)?

Shimano says to grease the threads...I see many others saying use anti-seize. Opinions?



bb-6500

drive side, remove clockwise.

HillRider

AFAIK, there is no alternative to the Octalink bb so either reuse that one or buy a new one. Both Performance and Nashbar show the 105 BB-5500 in stock. Otherwise replace the entire crank and bb with a current type. And, yes, they are pretty much non-servicable.

As to grease vs anti-seize, either works just fine. The only problem with anti-seize is it is very messy and it WILL get on your hands, clothes, the floor, etc.

Iride01 

Don't stress over whether you use grease or anti-seize on the threads. Anti-seize is just a special type of grease IMO. I use what ever is close at the time I need it unless I've had trouble in the past unscrewing the bolt or nut. Then I'll make an extra step or two to get the anti-seize.

What you have is the first version of Shimano's Octalink. You'll probably have to keep it unless you want to switch your cranks to something else. Either the current version of Octalink, or something else. You BB shell is threaded 1.37" by 24tpi. So you choices of what to get are pretty good.

If you want to replace that BB with the same, then you are going to pay more for it because they don't make them anymore.

xcfang

Thanks for the feedback. JensonUSA looks like the cheapest place ($33). I think the old one still spins OK but not having handled many it's hard for me to tell. I probably take it to LBS for their experienced hands to feel and replace as needed. Link to me spinning bb if someone wants to take a look. https://imgur.com/a/0u3xUFX. Doesn't have bad sound at all.

Do I need a specific anti-seize to work with a carbon frame (trek 2004 oclv carbon)?

Iride01 

You are threading the BB into metal aren't you? I don't think the carbon will care.

Mostly, I prefer nickle anti-seize. But it also is the one that is very difficult to get out of clothes if you get it on them.

And anti-seize is just for threads. Not lubrication of things that move. I've got a quart container that belonged to my Dad. I think he got it back in the 70's. It'll probably be something in my estate for my two sons to fight over <grin>

A tiny one use packet like they have on the counter in auto parts stores will be enough for several bikes.

HillRider

Corrected it for you!

Iride01 

You are correct. I've ruined many clothes thinking I could be careful when applying anti-seize.