1x11 Gearing
#1
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1x11 Gearing
New builder here. This summer I built up a Velo Orange Pass Hunter with a Shimano GRX 800 series drive train.
Up front I have a GRX FC-RX810 40t 1x crankset
In the rear I have GRX RD-RX812 1x11 derailleur and an XT CS-M8000 11 speed cassette with 11-42t cogs.
I have logged about 500 miles on this setup since June and I have repeatedly found myself not having enough high end gearing. On the opposite end of the spectrum, I have only needed to get into the big 42t low gear once.
I believe the easiest/most efficient solution to balancing these two issues is a larger front chainring. Am I correct? Does anyone have any other recommendations?
Up front I have a GRX FC-RX810 40t 1x crankset
In the rear I have GRX RD-RX812 1x11 derailleur and an XT CS-M8000 11 speed cassette with 11-42t cogs.
I have logged about 500 miles on this setup since June and I have repeatedly found myself not having enough high end gearing. On the opposite end of the spectrum, I have only needed to get into the big 42t low gear once.
I believe the easiest/most efficient solution to balancing these two issues is a larger front chainring. Am I correct? Does anyone have any other recommendations?
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You are correct.
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New builder here. This summer I built up a Velo Orange Pass Hunter with a Shimano GRX 800 series drive train.
Up front I have a GRX FC-RX810 40t 1x crankset
In the rear I have GRX RD-RX812 1x11 derailleur and an XT CS-M8000 11 speed cassette with 11-42t cogs.
I have logged about 500 miles on this setup since June and I have repeatedly found myself not having enough high end gearing. On the opposite end of the spectrum, I have only needed to get into the big 42t low gear once.
I believe the easiest/most efficient solution to balancing these two issues is a larger front chainring. Am I correct? Does anyone have any other recommendations?
Up front I have a GRX FC-RX810 40t 1x crankset
In the rear I have GRX RD-RX812 1x11 derailleur and an XT CS-M8000 11 speed cassette with 11-42t cogs.
I have logged about 500 miles on this setup since June and I have repeatedly found myself not having enough high end gearing. On the opposite end of the spectrum, I have only needed to get into the big 42t low gear once.
I believe the easiest/most efficient solution to balancing these two issues is a larger front chainring. Am I correct? Does anyone have any other recommendations?
I have the same gearing on my gravel bike . I'm actually looking for a little lower gearing went to my lbs and ordered a 38 tooth front chain ring. They haven't gotten it in yet hopefully it will give me the gearing Im looking for. Are you thinking about going with a 42 front chain ring or even larger ?
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#4
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Yes. You are discovering the limitation of 1x gearing, but it doesn't sound so bad. You give up one end of the range in exchange for gaining in the other end. There is a 381% difference between one end and the other, and that's pretty decent.
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#5
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I have the same gearing on my gravel bike . I'm actually looking for a little lower gearing went to my lbs and ordered a 38 tooth front chain ring. They haven't gotten it in yet hopefully it will give me the gearing Im looking for. Are you thinking about going with a 42 front chain ring or even larger ?
Are you running GRX components as well or do we just have the same gearing? I have been window shopping since cxwrench replied. So far, I have found 2 companies that make replacements specifically for the GRX series: Wolf Tooth and Garbaruk. Both are also compatible with the 600 or 800 series.
Shimano only makes the GRX in 40t or 42t. I have not checked on chainring compatibility with other Shimano series.
Wolf Tooth offers 38t through 46t but the only size they have in stock is the 40t on their site. Looks like JensenUSA might have multiple sizes in stock.
Garbaruk offers 38t through 52t.
#6
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That's the reason why I included that I have barely used the granny gear. Since I am rarely using it, I figured it gave me so room to move in the other direction.
#7
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Will you ever need it again?
A 2T change up front is hardly worth messing with, considering the cost.
You might consider working on your cadence on the high end if you're <100 RPM.
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#8
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The bigger issue for me is the high end. Even on relatively gradual descents, I regularly hit my highest gear and can do nothing but coast. I brought up the fact that I rarely use the low end because it would allow me to adjust the gearing more towards the high end.
I have been second guessing the impact this change will have as well. With this additional information, would it change your recommendation? Possibly a bigger gear change up front?
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1X is awesome but you give up things but hey you give up less than you would with a single speed set up (or 1x1). If you don't mind spending a little extra cash try a different chainring it is not like chainrings are so ridiculously expensive. Plus it is always good to have back up stuff or say hey I am doing a hilly route maybe I will swap chainrings or I am doing a pretty flat route bring out the big one.
I love my 1x9 hybrid, it is a ton of fun but yeah I don't have enough high end for a lot of stuff and certainly miss out on some low end on some stuff but it is perfect for putting around and smaller hills but can tackle really anything under a good rider.
I love my 1x9 hybrid, it is a ton of fun but yeah I don't have enough high end for a lot of stuff and certainly miss out on some low end on some stuff but it is perfect for putting around and smaller hills but can tackle really anything under a good rider.
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I wouldn't consider myself a fast guy by any stretch but I would not be happy trying to keep up speed with a 40t, my gravel is a 2x and I've found myself using that 46/11 a good bit. My last ride on it was 25 miles and my average cadence was 72rpm with some jumps to 100 and into the wind some drops. There were several minor hills and that gear was nice to have to make up a little extra speed without winding myself. Haven't ridden any place mountainous in a while now so I can't compare but the 34/34 would be the same 1 to 1 as a 42/42 and I haven't needed easier then that even with saddle bags on it though some punchy hills made it close to walking. I'd guess going to a 42 or 44 wouldn't hurt the low end that much but maybe a little more speed at optimal times will help overall energy levels for when you do need the low gear.
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So we all have different needs.
My current ride is 40 x 11-36 and I'll frequently swap out for my 11-42 because I know I'll need it. In fact, sometimes I want even lower.
I only ride in the mountains.
Descents are switchbacks, rutted, and washboards. That keeps me away from maxing out my gears. On the road I'll occasionally want more but I just tuck instead. Amazing, my speed is pretty much the same.
These bigger ring bikes seem too high for my stuff.
Even on the flats, I'd need to average in low 20s to need more gears. I can only do that on perfect days on pavement and a road bike. No risk of that in the dirt.
My current ride is 40 x 11-36 and I'll frequently swap out for my 11-42 because I know I'll need it. In fact, sometimes I want even lower.
I only ride in the mountains.
Descents are switchbacks, rutted, and washboards. That keeps me away from maxing out my gears. On the road I'll occasionally want more but I just tuck instead. Amazing, my speed is pretty much the same.
These bigger ring bikes seem too high for my stuff.
Even on the flats, I'd need to average in low 20s to need more gears. I can only do that on perfect days on pavement and a road bike. No risk of that in the dirt.
#12
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Another (more expensive suggestion). Swap out your cassette for a SRAM 10-42T cassette. You'll need an XDR driver to replace your Shimano driver too, but your RD and shifter will work just fine with the SRAM cassette. This way you'll increase the range from 382% to 420%, so you get to keep your current low gear while gaining an extra gear on the top end.
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Shrug. Everyone is different; the only time I've wished for a higher gear on my 1x 40/11-36 bike was when indoor racing. Outside, sure on steeper descents I'd have to coast, but it's a waste of energy to overcome aero drag when well over 30mph. That energy is better used to drill it uphill.
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I am debating between 42 and 44, but I think 42 should be sufficient. I am not an elite athlete or anything, just a guy in decent shape who rides a lot. Plus if I get it wrong, I am confident I will be able to sell off the extra part.
Are you running GRX components as well or do we just have the same gearing? I have been window shopping since cxwrench replied. So far, I have found 2 companies that make replacements specifically for the GRX series: Wolf Tooth and Garbaruk. Both are also compatible with the 600 or 800 series.
Shimano only makes the GRX in 40t or 42t. I have not checked on chainring compatibility with other Shimano series.
Wolf Tooth offers 38t through 46t but the only size they have in stock is the 40t on their site. Looks like JensenUSA might have multiple sizes in stock.
Garbaruk offers 38t through 52t.
Are you running GRX components as well or do we just have the same gearing? I have been window shopping since cxwrench replied. So far, I have found 2 companies that make replacements specifically for the GRX series: Wolf Tooth and Garbaruk. Both are also compatible with the 600 or 800 series.
Shimano only makes the GRX in 40t or 42t. I have not checked on chainring compatibility with other Shimano series.
Wolf Tooth offers 38t through 46t but the only size they have in stock is the 40t on their site. Looks like JensenUSA might have multiple sizes in stock.
Garbaruk offers 38t through 52t.
Last edited by cloud; 12-15-20 at 05:30 AM.
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Yep, 11t is as small as it really goes on the high end so your only option is a bigger front chainring.
I have been wanting a GRX crank for my gravel bike for a couple of years now. I need lower gearing for bikepacking with a touring load and the GRX stuff allows a chain ring smaller than 34t.
Have you considered a 2x front crank? Sounds like it would be a better fit for your type of riding.
I have been wanting a GRX crank for my gravel bike for a couple of years now. I need lower gearing for bikepacking with a touring load and the GRX stuff allows a chain ring smaller than 34t.
Have you considered a 2x front crank? Sounds like it would be a better fit for your type of riding.
#17
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Yes grx 800 . I looked and could not find a 38 in stock anywhere. So I went to my lbs he said he would order me one but laughed and said it might take about 6 months to get. I'm sure I probably could find it cheaper but he quoted me a price of $85.00 sorry I don't remember the brand.He did say I should not have to change the chain length .
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Up front I have a GRX FC-RX810 40t 1x crankset
In the rear I have GRX RD-RX812 1x11 derailleur and an XT CS-M8000 11 speed cassette with 11-42t cogs.
I have repeatedly found myself not having enough high end gearing. On the opposite end of the spectrum, I have only needed to get into the big 42t low gear once.
In the rear I have GRX RD-RX812 1x11 derailleur and an XT CS-M8000 11 speed cassette with 11-42t cogs.
I have repeatedly found myself not having enough high end gearing. On the opposite end of the spectrum, I have only needed to get into the big 42t low gear once.
What is your highest cadence that you are happy with?
My gravel bike has 40t up front and 11 in the back @ 100rpm that's good for about 28mph. I can only do 20-22 ish mph on flat with no wind. Just the slightest breeze or incline 1% and I am dropping a gear doing closer to 17mph.
https://www.bikecalc.com/speed_at_cadence
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The 1 by 11 seems to be the "latest thing". And it does give you one more gear than what cyclist used for 50 or 60 years. Less to go wrong too.
#21
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I haven't tried 1x yet. Maybe one day.
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It's that with 11 (12,13) cogs, you can have a massive difference that nearly equals what you get with a double and have more simplicity.
I don't like it on the road where I may might need to go 5mph or 50+. I like the range of a double on a road bike.
For gravel and mountain biking, the difference between fast and crawling isn't quite so large, maybe 4mph to 30. So all those extra gears are just extra so I love 1x for that.
#23
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I'm a big fan of Sram's 10-42t cassette. Going that route would achieve the same top end as going with a 44th chainring but you'd retain the low end. Definitely more expensive to get a new cassette and XD driver than a new chainring but I think the increase in range is worth it. I personally run a 38T chainring because it's very hilly near me and sometime which i have even lower gears..
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I am debating between 42 and 44, but I think 42 should be sufficient. I am not an elite athlete or anything, just a guy in decent shape who rides a lot. Plus if I get it wrong, I am confident I will be able to sell off the extra part.
Are you running GRX components as well or do we just have the same gearing? I have been window shopping since cxwrench replied. So far, I have found 2 companies that make replacements specifically for the GRX series: Wolf Tooth and Garbaruk. Both are also compatible with the 600 or 800 series.
Shimano only makes the GRX in 40t or 42t. I have not checked on chainring compatibility with other Shimano series.
Wolf Tooth offers 38t through 46t but the only size they have in stock is the 40t on their site. Looks like JensenUSA might have multiple sizes in stock.
Garbaruk offers 38t through 52t.
Are you running GRX components as well or do we just have the same gearing? I have been window shopping since cxwrench replied. So far, I have found 2 companies that make replacements specifically for the GRX series: Wolf Tooth and Garbaruk. Both are also compatible with the 600 or 800 series.
Shimano only makes the GRX in 40t or 42t. I have not checked on chainring compatibility with other Shimano series.
Wolf Tooth offers 38t through 46t but the only size they have in stock is the 40t on their site. Looks like JensenUSA might have multiple sizes in stock.
Garbaruk offers 38t through 52t.
eBay item number:303527250722 and this seller has a 44t
eBay item number:
254808242176
What part of Philly?
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You may need to lengthen our chain if you put on a significantly bigger front gear as well...