Spreading 126mm dropouts to 142.5 ?
05-20-22, 02:51 PM
#1
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2022
Location: Omaha NE
Posts: 15
Bikes: too many lol
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 4 Times
in
4 Posts
Spreading 126mm dropouts to 142.5 ?
I'm assuming this is ill-advised, but figured I'd ask. Steel frame, obviously. And if that's too far to safely spread, would 130 work? How far is too far?
Basically, I'm trying to find an excuse for myself to buy this Maxi-Car hub with a drum brake to build a touring/camping bike around. I don't have the money to get a custom frame, so I'm only going to bid on the hub if I can safely adapt a vintage (non-tandem) frame to fit it.
Basically, I'm trying to find an excuse for myself to buy this Maxi-Car hub with a drum brake to build a touring/camping bike around. I don't have the money to get a custom frame, so I'm only going to bid on the hub if I can safely adapt a vintage (non-tandem) frame to fit it.
05-20-22, 03:14 PM
#2
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Oakland, CA
Posts: 3,265
Bikes: '82 Univega Competizione, '72 Motobecane Grand Record, '83 Mercian KOM Touring, '85 Univega Alpina Uno, '76 Eisentraut Limited
Mentioned: 57 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1088 Post(s)
Liked 1,204 Times
in
700 Posts
My otherwise lovely Mercian has a dent in the seat stay where a previous owner tried to go from 126 to 135. It was repaired by a different previous owner at a reputable shop and set to 130. I suspect a similar fate for whatever bike to which you try to do this. It’s a cool hub, to be sure, but, well, it’s for a tandem.
05-20-22, 03:17 PM
#3
Old fart
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Appleton WI
Posts: 24,773
Bikes: Several, mostly not name brands.
Mentioned: 153 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3580 Post(s)
Liked 3,393 Times
in
1,927 Posts
Safest would be to cut the bridges, respace the dropouts, and install new, longer bridges. Assuming a steel frame, of course. All bets are off if it's not steel.
05-20-22, 04:12 PM
#4
Edumacator
Join Date: Jan 2018
Location: Goose Creek, SC
Posts: 6,748
Bikes: '87 Crestdale, '87 Basso Gap, '92 Rossin Performance EL-OS, 1990 VanTuyl, 1980s Losa, 1985 Trek 670, 1982 AD SLE, 1987 PX10, etc...
Mentioned: 59 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2427 Post(s)
Liked 3,085 Times
in
1,944 Posts
I'm assuming this is ill-advised, but figured I'd ask. Steel frame, obviously. And if that's too far to safely spread, would 130 work? How far is too far?
Basically, I'm trying to find an excuse for myself to buy this Maxi-Car hub with a drum brake to build a touring/camping bike around. I don't have the money to get a custom frame, so I'm only going to bid on the hub if I can safely adapt a vintage (non-tandem) frame to fit it.
Basically, I'm trying to find an excuse for myself to buy this Maxi-Car hub with a drum brake to build a touring/camping bike around. I don't have the money to get a custom frame, so I'm only going to bid on the hub if I can safely adapt a vintage (non-tandem) frame to fit it.
I would think cold setting is a big no, while you’d have to replace the bridges and bend the chain stays out a bit more gracefully.
...anything I said was non expert postulation though!
__________________
1987 Crest Cannondale, 1987 Basso Gap, 1992 Rossin Performance EL, 1990ish Van Tuyl, 1985 Trek 670, 1982 AD SLE, 2003 Pinarello Surprise, 1990ish MBK Atlantique, 1987 Peugeot Competition, 1987 Nishiki Tri-A, 1981 Faggin, 1996 Cannondale M500, 1984 Mercian, 1982 AD SuperLeicht, 1985 Massi (model unknown), 1988 Daccordi Griffe , 1989 Fauxsin MTB, 1981 Ciocc Mockba, 1992 Bianchi Giro, 1977 Colnago Super
1987 Crest Cannondale, 1987 Basso Gap, 1992 Rossin Performance EL, 1990ish Van Tuyl, 1985 Trek 670, 1982 AD SLE, 2003 Pinarello Surprise, 1990ish MBK Atlantique, 1987 Peugeot Competition, 1987 Nishiki Tri-A, 1981 Faggin, 1996 Cannondale M500, 1984 Mercian, 1982 AD SuperLeicht, 1985 Massi (model unknown), 1988 Daccordi Griffe , 1989 Fauxsin MTB, 1981 Ciocc Mockba, 1992 Bianchi Giro, 1977 Colnago Super
05-20-22, 04:34 PM
#5
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2022
Location: Omaha NE
Posts: 15
Bikes: too many lol
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 4 Times
in
4 Posts
Thanks y'all, I didn't think to specify but I meant cold setting, not cutting and re-brazing. Sounds like it's definitely a no. Oh well!
05-20-22, 05:14 PM
#6
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: San Jose (Willow Glen) Ca
Posts: 9,829
Bikes: Kirk Custom JK Special, '84 Team Miyata,(dura ace old school) 80?? SR Semi-Pro 600 Arabesque
Mentioned: 106 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2336 Post(s)
Liked 2,804 Times
in
1,532 Posts
I did 126 to 135 once using the sheldon method.(2x4, one on side at a time) it was on a 82 Nishki, olmpic 12. do cromo double butted pretty long chains stays, but another 7.5 mm and depend on it for touring.... nope for me
__________________
Life is too short not to ride the best bike you have, as much as you can
(looking for Torpado Super light frame/fork or for Raleigh International frame fork 58cm)
Life is too short not to ride the best bike you have, as much as you can
(looking for Torpado Super light frame/fork or for Raleigh International frame fork 58cm)
05-20-22, 06:01 PM
#7
Senior Member
I cold set my Pro Tour from 120 to 135. It was nerve wracking, especially since I'd never undertaken such a thing, but it's been problem free for 9 years.
05-20-22, 08:06 PM
#8
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: Los Angeles
Posts: 4,692
Bikes: 82 Medici, 2011 Richard Sachs, 2011 Milwaukee Road
Mentioned: 55 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1946 Post(s)
Liked 2,004 Times
in
1,105 Posts
If an old MTB is not too heavy, they start at 130? With Cantilever brakes you can toss the bridges.
__________________
I don't do: disks, tubeless, e-shifting, or bead head nymphs.
I don't do: disks, tubeless, e-shifting, or bead head nymphs.
05-21-22, 09:43 PM
#9
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2017
Location: Chicago, IL
Posts: 518
Bikes: 2004 Trek 520, resto-modded 1987 Cannondale SR400, rando-modded 1976 AD Vent Noir; 2019 Wabi Classic; 1989? Burley Duet
Mentioned: 7 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 213 Post(s)
Liked 93 Times
in
51 Posts
I spread a 531 Austro Daimler from 120 to 130 using a 2x4. Works just fine 7000 miles later.
05-22-22, 06:46 AM
#10
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2004
Posts: 23,223
Mentioned: 654 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4722 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 3,036 Times
in
1,874 Posts
The missing parameters are the alloy of the steel and whether or not it is heat treated. Stronger steels require more force to bend them. They're also more resilient, having more spring back, which requires them to be deflected further beyond the set distance. Finally, they'll also be thinner. Consequently, the probability of creasing the stays, rather than bending them, increases with better grades of steel and larger amounts of cold set.
I'd probably attempt this with a low carbon and maybe even hi-tensile frame. I don't think I'd try it with chromium-molybdenum or manganese-molybdenum and I definitely wouldn't try it on any heat treated steels.
I'd probably attempt this with a low carbon and maybe even hi-tensile frame. I don't think I'd try it with chromium-molybdenum or manganese-molybdenum and I definitely wouldn't try it on any heat treated steels.
Likes For T-Mar:
