What threads are used to pull can’t crankset?
#1
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What threads are used to pull can’t crankset?
Are they the same as Shimano/sun tour? Or are they a special type? Thank you!
sorry! Auto correct on campy
sorry! Auto correct on campy
Last edited by LBCwanabe; 07-17-22 at 06:48 PM.
#2
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?
#3
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22, unless it's 23. But sometimes it's 23.35, but technically 23.15.
Then there's this, if the threads are 23 x 0.0.
Next question?
/s
-Kurt
P.S.: Jokes aside, nothing special about Campag square taper. 22mm. You may find that you'll need a very thin-wall 15mm socket to pull the crank bolt though.
Then there's this, if the threads are 23 x 0.0.
Next question?
/s
-Kurt
P.S.: Jokes aside, nothing special about Campag square taper. 22mm. You may find that you'll need a very thin-wall 15mm socket to pull the crank bolt though.
#5
Senior Member
This removes the crank bolts - the famous "peanut butter wrench".
This pulls the crank arm off the spindle, using the same wrench.
This pulls the crank arm off the spindle, using the same wrench.
#6
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Park makes a tool, as well. These are much less expensive than the pair of vintage Campagnolo tools.
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IMO, you need 2 wrenches, snug the body in the crank arm threads then hold the body with a wrench so the forcing screw works against the body, not the crank arm threads, they are never to be trusted.
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Don't forget if they're C-Record cranks they have a left hand thread.
(Although C-Rec cranks should have the self extracting bolts.)
(Although C-Rec cranks should have the self extracting bolts.)
#9
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Inexpensive Puller For Crank Arm Stripped Threads
About a year and a half ago I had a problem with an almost NOS crank arm that had been tapped oversize at the factory. Instead of 22mm x 1.0 the threads were about 22.5mm x 1.0. My Shimano puller came right out along with the tops of the threads. My 23mm x 1.0 TA puller was to big!
Came up with an inexpensive solution! An automotive Pitman Arm Puller used for steering linkage repairs. They come in 2 sizes... You want the smaller size. You can find them at auto parts stores in the US and online for about $15-$16.
I modified it a little on a bench grinder to fit over the crank arm and into the space between the BB cup. Ground a taper on the puller screw to fit into the square taper hole - the dimensions are shown below.
I picked up 2 different size 1/8" thick hardened steel washers at a local Ace Hardware for different brand cranks. Cut the slots with and 1/8" thick cut off grinding wheel using an angle grinder. They prevent damage to the arm.
Worked perfect! No scratches or dings. The arm came right off!
cudak888 Much simpler than the 2 or 3 arm bearing pullers which will kluge up crank arms!
verktyg
Came up with an inexpensive solution! An automotive Pitman Arm Puller used for steering linkage repairs. They come in 2 sizes... You want the smaller size. You can find them at auto parts stores in the US and online for about $15-$16.
I modified it a little on a bench grinder to fit over the crank arm and into the space between the BB cup. Ground a taper on the puller screw to fit into the square taper hole - the dimensions are shown below.
I picked up 2 different size 1/8" thick hardened steel washers at a local Ace Hardware for different brand cranks. Cut the slots with and 1/8" thick cut off grinding wheel using an angle grinder. They prevent damage to the arm.
Worked perfect! No scratches or dings. The arm came right off!
cudak888 Much simpler than the 2 or 3 arm bearing pullers which will kluge up crank arms!
verktyg
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Don't believe everything you think! History is written by those who weren't there....
Chas. ;-)
Don't believe everything you think! History is written by those who weren't there....
Chas. ;-)
Last edited by verktyg; 07-18-22 at 04:12 AM.
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Nice idea.
The lips of the pullers I use don't fit between the crank arm and the BB, and the washer made that even less plausible. Even ground down, not working.
Some crank arms have a beveled shape on the back, and coupled with the thickness of the puller lips, a no-go for about 2/3 of my applications.
But, for 1/3 of them, a huge saver !!
The modern FSA cranksets, for one, have a very weak "self-extracting" ring. It will pull out of there in a heartbeat.
Then, the space behind the crank arm is almost nil. Possibly re-threading a 23mm in there may work.
The lips of the pullers I use don't fit between the crank arm and the BB, and the washer made that even less plausible. Even ground down, not working.
Some crank arms have a beveled shape on the back, and coupled with the thickness of the puller lips, a no-go for about 2/3 of my applications.
But, for 1/3 of them, a huge saver !!
The modern FSA cranksets, for one, have a very weak "self-extracting" ring. It will pull out of there in a heartbeat.
Then, the space behind the crank arm is almost nil. Possibly re-threading a 23mm in there may work.