jamesdak 

That's gonna be a beauty!

sovende

I have all of the necessary tools and supplies to do all of the work mentioned in the various replies to my thread and have done the job on several bikes. It does mean that I will have clear the work bench in the "Man Cave" of several other "on going" projects! That's prolly a good thing tho 👍.
There is a LBS nearby but I have no idea RE: the qualifications of the mechanics. There are at least two mechanics there and they both look old enough to know about older bikes 😉. Whether they do or not is the question 🤔. It's the only shop in the county with the next closest one being ~30 miles distant. I know even less about that shop. With the LBS having a bit of a monopoly, their prices run on the high side.

sovende

The AccuWeather forecast of rain actually came true today . Much needed so I didn't mind too much AND it gave me good reason to stay indoors to do the wheel bearing relube that most have insisted that I take care of before any additional miles accrue . Prior to the R&R, I had dribbled some Marvel Mystery Oil into each side of the hub. Didn't think it was going to fix any issues but didn't think it would hurt anything. When I disassembled the hubs, I did find that the (I'm assuming the OEM) grease had solidified but had softened some with the MMO treatment! Once all of the caked on grease was cleaned off, I found no rust, shiny ball bearings and both bearing surfaces on the cups as well as the cones looked acceptable . I repacked the cups with Park Bearing Grease, re-used the OEM bearings and put everything back together. I adjusted the cones to allow for ever so slight "play" and locked that position with the jam nuts. With the wheel in the testing stand, the wheel spun freely. Using my mechanic's stethoscope, I didn't detect any grinding. I spun the wheel several times and it always came to rest at the same position. I think things are as they should be. Of course, I did both wheels.
Previously, once the freewheel had been removed, I flushed out as much of the old lubricant as I could and relubed with some 30 weight oil. I didn't feel the need to disassemble the freewheel. I hesitated RE: reinstalling the "dork-disc" but went ahead and put in back on .
The bottom bracket and headset bearings are next but not as critical as the hubs .

Hobbiano 

I'll sleep better tonight.

sovende

Well then, I'm very glad I posted !

Hobbiano 

I have a 1000 & 610 and after seeing yours it seems like a 210 is what's missing in my life. That makes sense, doesn't it?

ryansu

I will add my voice to doing a repack of the 4 main bearings, new grease and bearings are cheap and its a pretty straight forward job just take it slow. I just use new bearing they are cheap and I always seem to lose one existing ones when I open up the hubs/headset.bb lol. In addition to the RJ videos the article from Sheldon Brown might help, For adjustments I always try remember the manta of no slop no grind Have fun with the 210

sovende

So, it's been a little over six weeks since acquiring my Miyata Two Ten. I've done almost all of the work that needed to be done to make it rideable. I've yet to regrease the headset and bottom beacket bearings. That may or may not get done before being placed into "suspended animation" for the Winter months. When doing the cable and housing replacement and the brake pad R&R, I removed the saddle and seat post to gine me more room to work. Upon reassembly, I glanced down the seat tube and noticed that I wasn't seeing bare metal just past the level of the bottom of the seat post! Got a flashlight for closer inspection and found a fair amount of surface rust in the mid-third of the seat tube. My plan is to attack it with some steel wool and apply some rust inhibiting oil. Since I can see all the way down to the "accordion" spindle protector, I thought that I would push a rag "plug" to the lowest level to catch the rust debris resulting from the steel wool treatment. Once that is done, I'll pull the plug back out (hopefully with most of the debris) before applying the rust inhibitor. Does that sound like a reasonable plan?

Hobbiano 

I think I'd skip the steel wool. It just seems to make a mess with all the wool fragments. I bought some wire brushes that came in different diameters (from Harbor freight I think) that I have used to clean inside the seat tube. The brush was about 4" long and the twisted wire handle was about 6". You could probably extend the handle with a dowel or something. I'd use WD40 and the brush to get it clean and then frame saver or grease on a rag at the end of a stick or something. It isn't really a big deal if its relatively light rust. Just clean it and get it oily. A 3/8" dowel with a slot to accept some sandpaper or emery cloth chucked into an electric drill would probably clean it up pretty good, too.
I'd wait till you have the bottom bracket out for an overhaul and do it then to avoid contaminating the bearings. If you use frame saver or some other rust deterrent, you generally want just the bare frame so you can spray it into all the tubes and rotate the frame to all different angles to distribute the oil thoroughly inside of the tubes.
But, again, if its just light rust, you don't really need to worry about it.

viperocco

I am all about clean lines and less weight but I find kickstands functional

simmonsgc

Very nice bike, and it will serve you very well! The "sleeper" of great Miyata touring frames I think, and THE year to own for the Two-Ten. Commuted on mine for years, until I got hit by a driver on the morning of April 10, 2018...where it met its end. Many happy miles on that bike. See https://www.bikeforums.net/21270131-post10.html

Hobbiano 

They often won't stay tight. So they get tightened a little bit more each time they get loose. Eventually, the chain stays get crushed, a little bit at a time. While not usually structural, it looks bad and hurts resale value.

viperocco

Yeah, those are some valid points. I cut some old inner tube and gorilla glued it to the kickstand clamp where it contacts the frame on my recent project. Hopefully that will help prevent damage

sovende

It's unlikely that I'll be doing any loaded touring with this (or any other) bike but it should work well as a day trip or "credit card" tour bike! I've mounted a handlebar bag and a "combo" bag that's strapped to the rear carrier.
I'm pleased to learn (according to simmonsgc) that I have "THE year to have" for a Miyata Two Ten! I guess that's a tidbit that the guy that sold it to me just didn't know . His loss, my gain!

sovende

OK, I know it’s been seven months since the last post to this thread but since I’m the OP, it might be acceptable. It’s June 1st and hopefully Winter is finally over here in Wisconsin! (It did snow in central Wisconsin this past Friday!) I’ve been out many times on other bikes but now I’m looking at some day trips in Minnesota and want to use my Miyata Two-Ten. I’ve got a front handlebar bag mount in the works (I’ll start a new thread for that) and needed to do a bit of brake adjustment but found that the front tire had suffered a blow out while languishing in the garage since last October. I had replaced the (I suspect) original tires right after I got the bike but chose a questionable set of Cheng Shin (Nashbar) tires that I had acquired quite some time ago. (Should have known better). Anyway, I replaced them with a pair of Panaracer PASELA Arimid belted Tour Guard tires that my daughter had “gifted” to me. I’ve seen many a thread where they are mentioned as a solid choice for touring bikes. I gave some thought to using new tubes with Presta valves but since the rims were drilled for Schrader valves (I know, Prestas would have been fine) and I had a new set of “ Slimed” tubes with Schrader valves, so I used them. The Panaracers look great on the bike!

USAZorro

It's a great looking bicycle. I used to own an '84 (blue and not quite as showy). It was a very stable and steady rider, and if I truly had been looking for a touring bike to mount panniers on, likely would have kept it. Not as nimble or as fun to ride as some other bikes I had, so I passed it on. Hope you get a lot of enjoyment out of it.