Changing out Shimano HG700-11
09-18-21, 09:29 AM
#26
Junior Member
Thread Starter
If you never find yourself "between gears" and wanting a 16T or 14T, then you should be fine.
Cross chaining only really matters at the outer-most combos, so if you're not running 50x30 or 34x11 today, then you'll be fine. Otherwise, a slight difference in chain angles isn't going to make a difference with regards to real-world, non-race performance.
Cross chaining only really matters at the outer-most combos, so if you're not running 50x30 or 34x11 today, then you'll be fine. Otherwise, a slight difference in chain angles isn't going to make a difference with regards to real-world, non-race performance.
09-18-21, 09:32 AM
#27
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Looking at the gear sizes I bet a 14-28t cassette would work really well with a 52/36t or 53/39t front sprocket for my rides. Or just use the SRAM like someone else listed.
12-25t also looks interesting.
12-25t also looks interesting.
Last edited by jjay03; 09-18-21 at 09:50 AM.
09-18-21, 10:11 AM
#28
I'm good to go!
Join Date: Jul 2017
Location: Mississippi
Posts: 14,986
Bikes: Tarmac Disc Comp Di2 - 2020
Mentioned: 51 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 6193 Post(s)
Liked 4,809 Times
in
3,317 Posts
It's not only the gears you use the most. It's also the gears you need to get up any hill you normally encounter. If you are muscling your way up a hill at a low cadence every ride you do, then you might need some lower gearing.
Sure you might build muscles and over come that difficult gear, but you might also risk future knee problems as you age.
Sure you might build muscles and over come that difficult gear, but you might also risk future knee problems as you age.
09-18-21, 10:37 AM
#29
Junior Member
Thread Starter
It's not only the gears you use the most. It's also the gears you need to get up any hill you normally encounter. If you are muscling your way up a hill at a low cadence every ride you do, then you might need some lower gearing.
Sure you might build muscles and over come that difficult gear, but you might also risk future knee problems as you age.
Sure you might build muscles and over come that difficult gear, but you might also risk future knee problems as you age.
09-18-21, 02:11 PM
#30
Method to My Madness
Join Date: Nov 2020
Location: Orange County, California
Posts: 3,658
Bikes: Trek FX 2, Cannondale Synapse, Cannondale CAAD4, Santa Cruz Stigmata GRX
Mentioned: 4 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1944 Post(s)
Liked 1,468 Times
in
1,017 Posts
It's not only the gears you use the most. It's also the gears you need to get up any hill you normally encounter. If you are muscling your way up a hill at a low cadence every ride you do, then you might need some lower gearing.
Sure you might build muscles and over come that difficult gear, but you might also risk future knee problems as you age.
Sure you might build muscles and over come that difficult gear, but you might also risk future knee problems as you age.
09-18-21, 02:14 PM
#31
Method to My Madness
Join Date: Nov 2020
Location: Orange County, California
Posts: 3,658
Bikes: Trek FX 2, Cannondale Synapse, Cannondale CAAD4, Santa Cruz Stigmata GRX
Mentioned: 4 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1944 Post(s)
Liked 1,468 Times
in
1,017 Posts
09-22-21, 03:53 PM
#32
cycles per second
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Minnesota
Posts: 1,930
Bikes: Early 1980's Ishiwata 022 steel sport/touring, 1986 Vitus 979, 1988 DiamondBack Apex, 1997 Softride PowerWing 700, 2001 Trek OCLV 110
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 44 Post(s)
Liked 71 Times
in
48 Posts
Hard to say. I recommend finding the biggest hill you ride, and include it near the end of one of your longer rides (if possible). Don't sandbag the ride up to the hill - ride your normal pace. Fill your water bottles or hydration pack (or both 
)just before the hill (if possible). See what gear you need to get up it comfortably. Then choose a cassette that has a cog or two larger than that (for those days when you ride longer, or harder, or it's windy).
Changing to a smaller cassette should not require any changes to the rear derailer or to chain length.
)just before the hill (if possible). See what gear you need to get up it comfortably. Then choose a cassette that has a cog or two larger than that (for those days when you ride longer, or harder, or it's windy).Changing to a smaller cassette should not require any changes to the rear derailer or to chain length.
Last edited by Gonzo Bob; 09-22-21 at 03:59 PM.
09-28-21, 08:45 AM
#33
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Jacksonville, FL
Posts: 6,876
Bikes: Trek Domane SLR 7 AXS, Trek CheckPoint SL7 AXS, Trek Emonda ALR AXS, Trek FX 5 Sport
Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 765 Post(s)
Liked 1,734 Times
in
1,010 Posts
I have a new Domane SL5 with the 11-34t rear cassette and 50/34 compact crank. I ride mostly on flat bike trails and dont ever really use the largest sprocket on the rear cassette. What gearing would you recommend? I was thinking about going to an ultegra 11-30t rear cassette.
If I swapped out the rear cassette HG700-11 to a CS-r8000 11-30t would I need to change anything else? Still use the same rear derailleur? I was also thinking about going to an ultegra chain at this time.
What tools should I buy to remove/install the rear cassette?
Thanks
If I swapped out the rear cassette HG700-11 to a CS-r8000 11-30t would I need to change anything else? Still use the same rear derailleur? I was also thinking about going to an ultegra chain at this time.
What tools should I buy to remove/install the rear cassette?
Thanks
I also love the 16 tooth and basically live in the 15, 16, 17 tooth on a 50 tooth chain ring
