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Tips, Tricks, Modifications, and Hacks

Old 01-27-18, 07:58 PM
  #76  
krispenhartung
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Originally Posted by spartanKid View Post
Seems like at very high speeds this would make a lot of wheel wobble. Have you tried it in full on efforts?
not sure yet, but I will find out soon enough. I'll be at the Alpenrose Velodrome in Portland, OR in a few weeks. The sensor is very light, so I don't think it has enough mass to generate the momentum to create a wobble. Alternatively, I could put it on the back wheel.
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Old 01-27-18, 08:03 PM
  #77  
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Originally Posted by carleton View Post
I’d rather have a magnet that is a few square mm swinging around my wheel than a sensor that is a few square inches.

Call me crazy

You can mount a speed sensor on the trailing side of the fork and not increase the CdA of the system.

The new way of mounting the sensor to the spinning wheel seems like a bad idea for a few reasons (CdA, rotating mass, does it work?, will it fling off?...)
What speed sensor are you using on the fork to go along with that magnet?
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Old 01-27-18, 08:36 PM
  #78  
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Originally Posted by krispenhartung View Post
What speed sensor are you using on the fork to go along with that magnet?
See my post a page or two back. It’s Bontrager.
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Old 01-27-18, 09:32 PM
  #79  
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Originally Posted by carleton View Post
See my post a page or two back. It’s Bontrager.
Awesome. Thanks! I just bought two of them.
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Old 01-28-18, 02:10 AM
  #80  
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Originally Posted by krispenhartung View Post
Awesome. Thanks! I just bought two of them.
Great! I hope it works out for you.

If you are in a hurry, they can be found at local Trek dealers. That's where I bought mine. They are still a current product offering.
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Old 01-30-18, 09:26 PM
  #81  
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I looked and Trek weren't bringing them into Oz any more. There's a few other similar offerings from other companies. I have a Sigma speed/cadence set
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Old 01-31-18, 01:00 AM
  #82  
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Originally Posted by brawlo View Post
I looked and Trek weren't bringing them into Oz any more. There's a few other similar offerings from other companies. I have a Sigma speed/cadence set
I think they are all pretty much the same.

Also, for those reading. SRM sells an ANT+ speed sensor. Here it is in their Oceana web shop. This will get you halfway there. Modern SRMs deliver cadence from the power meter and get speed from that sensor.

The SRM one is priced waaaay too high, though.
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Old 02-17-18, 07:03 AM
  #83  
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Here's a slightly different way to mount straps to SPD-SL's with zip ties.
I stole these from my road bike while my VP track pedals are getting warranty replaced (bearings went sloppy). I attached straps the usual way, but found the straps too far forward for my liking, not really being behind the ball of the foot at all. To get them back a bit, I heated up an old broken spoke red hot and bored holes either side of the spring mechanism on the clasp, then cleaned it up and ran my zip ties there. Boom, straps placed much more nicely.


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Old 02-17-18, 10:28 AM
  #84  
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My god that's brilliant...and clean.

I'm going to try that this weekend.
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Old 02-17-18, 06:14 PM
  #85  
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Originally Posted by carleton View Post
My god that's brilliant...and clean.

I'm going to try that this weekend.
Seemed pretty obvious after looking at the problem for a minute, have others tried this?
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Old 02-17-18, 06:39 PM
  #86  
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looks really clean. It makes perfect sense looking at it, but I've never seen it done before.
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Old 02-17-18, 06:55 PM
  #87  
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I'm pretty sure that this is the first time I've seen this mod done. The brits put screwholes into the same locations for their strap bracket, but this is really slick!
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Old 02-17-18, 07:47 PM
  #88  
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Originally Posted by Baby Puke View Post
Seemed pretty obvious after looking at the problem for a minute, have others tried this?
Originally Posted by taras0000 View Post
I'm pretty sure that this is the first time I've seen this mod done. The brits put screwholes into the same locations for their strap bracket, but this is really slick!
Yeah, I think this is the first time, too.



Here are Hoy's* pedals. Note the bolts go through the same area where you cut out. These bolts bear load as the strap would tug on the bolts during max effort and seemed to work well enough for the British. Baby Puke, your system wouldn't put any load in this area. All your holes do is make a place for the straps to go through and affix the strap against the bottom of the plastic clamp that grabs the cleat.

Another difference is that the British system would force the cleat closed when the strap was tugged. Your system does not. It simply pulls the pedal up from the bottom which is arguably better.

The only concern is if the system allows the strap to slide and shift from being under the bottom to being across the back. I guess testing would let you know if that's happening.

So, if this passes testing, it would be awesome. And it would work for current generation SPD-SL pedals as well (I checked mine).


*"Hoy used Omnium cranks??" Not really. This photo is from when Hoy launched his line of track bikes which used Omnium cranks. He had been using that pedal system for years in competition. He did some photoshoots of him riding his bikes for promotion. Note the really long reach that he liked. He was one of the first sprinters (that I know of) that used a longer than normal reach:


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Old 02-17-18, 07:56 PM
  #89  
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Yeah, I do prefer where the strap is for Hoy's pedal, which is emulated by the VP-73T pedal (rear strap position in this photo)

Unfortunately, the VP bearings don't seem great, and mine got loose after just a couple of months use primarily on the trainer, and are not serviceable- same construction as LOOK Keo from what I gather. Hoping warranty replacements hold up better, as I really like just the single strap in the back.

There is a possibility of the strap slipping on the SPD-SL as I have it, will know after I can do some real efforts with it, but I think it will probably be ok as it's pretty much a static load on the strap, and shouldn't be moving around much.
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Old 02-18-18, 12:09 PM
  #90  
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Just a heads up for those with Felt TK1s: You can use pennies as a seatmast shim. I find this a more creative way to throw money at the problem, instead of cutting shims out of the post.
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Old 02-18-18, 12:19 PM
  #91  
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Originally Posted by JimiMimni View Post
Just a heads up for those with Felt TK1s: You can use pennies as a seatmast shim. I find this a more creative way to throw money at the problem, instead of cutting shims out of the post.
Really? Nice!

Pics?
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Old 02-18-18, 01:03 PM
  #92  
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Originally Posted by carleton View Post
Really? Nice!

Pics?
Yup. This is ~9mm shim I pulled from the mast topper. Each penny is 1.2 to 1.5mm thick, so you can get some fairly precise changes in height.

This might work for other masts, but I can neither confirm, nor deny.
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Old 02-18-18, 01:07 PM
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Wouldn't that put all of the pressure in one area as opposed to spreading it around the edge of the mast and the inside of the mast top?
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Old 02-18-18, 01:18 PM
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Originally Posted by carleton View Post
Wouldn't that put all of the pressure in one area as opposed to spreading it around the edge of the mast and the inside of the mast top?
Probably, but it's over the widest part of the mast. I can't imagine there is anything to worry about regarding weight distribution. You're really only interested in having a block between the topper and the mast.
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Old 02-18-18, 02:46 PM
  #95  
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Originally Posted by JimiMimni View Post
Probably, but it's over the widest part of the mast. I can't imagine there is anything to worry about regarding weight distribution. You're really only interested in having a block between the topper and the mast.
As a “husky fellow” (read: fat boy), I need all the support I can get
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Old 03-03-18, 08:53 AM
  #96  
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3D printing off some new goodies. Fizik saddle clip was a great idea!
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Old 03-03-18, 11:40 AM
  #97  
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Originally Posted by Morelock View Post
3D printing off some new goodies. Fizik saddle clip was a great idea!
Nice! How does it perform?
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Old 03-03-18, 12:09 PM
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just off the press so no on track rides (next weekend though!) but everything is very sturdy and removing the PCV takes some effort so I don't suspect anything the track could throw at it (DLV is the ultimate test though ) would knock it off.

I need to build a case for my 3d printer so I can start printing in ABS instead of PLA. Would make any parts a bit more durable. (bend instead of break)
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Old 03-03-18, 12:16 PM
  #99  
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Originally Posted by Morelock View Post
just off the press so no on track rides (next weekend though!) but everything is very sturdy and removing the PCV takes some effort so I don't suspect anything the track could throw at it (DLV is the ultimate test though ) would knock it off.

I need to build a case for my 3d printer so I can start printing in ABS instead of PLA. Would make any parts a bit more durable. (bend instead of break)
I've found ABS to be more brittle.

I've tried both at home and keep going back to PLA.

I think the real test will be from putting the head unit on and off scores of times through out the months. I fear that the first few times will be fine, but 20, 30, or 50 will be the failure point.

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Old 03-03-18, 12:42 PM
  #100  
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interesting... maybe apathy has worked in my favor all this time!

Yeah, I'd say eventual durability will falter, printed at 100% fill though and everything minus the "neck" is pretty compact, so if it does break, it'll likely be there. Or possibly the "clip" to connect it to the saddle if you removed it often.

Someone buy my a super nice cnc machine and we'll print them in metal!
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