Show Your Vintage MTB Drop Bar Conversions
#7226
Junior Member
So many cool bikes here
This inspired my most recent build. I’m lurking until I get to 10 and will post pictures
#7227
Senior Member
If that is the reach you need, then it too much stem.
...it also probably means the bike's geometey isn't ideal for you, but many of these bikes fit that reality.
If the Stem is being used simply because it's what you have, maybe pick up a different one and some 26.0 or 31.8mm bars.
...it also probably means the bike's geometey isn't ideal for you, but many of these bikes fit that reality.
If the Stem is being used simply because it's what you have, maybe pick up a different one and some 26.0 or 31.8mm bars.
Its a small frame (19" seat tube, 22" top tube) that I intended to fit a smallish person, but with that stem it might actually work for me. Its just too bad I have like 5 MTB conversions for myself. I'll throw on a crank and maybe ride it around for a minute as a single speed, see how badly it wants to throw me over the bars.
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#7228
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1. Setup saddle position (height and setback from BB)
2. Set stem/bar position (drop and reach)
Stem length does affect handling but IMO that length stem is fine. Also note that with typical head tube angles on these bikes (72 ish degrees) so raising the stem beings the bars back towards the rider. In the 80's the top tube length tended to be similar to a comparable sized road bike but around 1990 this started to change and top tubes started getting much longer. Thus I will start a drop bar conversion fit by setting the saddle and then setting the bars appropriately.
Last edited by NocoRider; 11-01-21 at 02:25 PM.
#7229
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First ride I took on it again, I felt a sensation like it wanted to steer into the corners. I can't recall noticing that phenomena before and I don't think I have on my road bike either (though, I haven't been riding it for a while either and not since I road the flat bar MTB more). Can it be something to do with stem height, or length? Or some combination of them?
My 26'er dropbar conversions all have a significant amount of wheel flop but also handle very well at speed.
All About Steering
Last edited by NocoRider; 11-01-21 at 02:44 PM.
#7230
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#7231
Blamester
It's worth doing just to see.
I tried different lengths just to see and by accident I found a length that let's me look over my shoulder and not unintentionally steer in that direction. That was a ten mill difference.
So for a good handling bike it's important.
And you won't be able know till you try.
Even if that is wrong you will get used to it and it will seem fine.
#7232
Senior Member
I'd suggest going off the measurements from your fav road (ish) bike. Here's what I do...
1. Setup saddle position (height and setback from BB)
2. Set stem/bar position (drop and reach)
Stem length does affect handling but IMO that length stem is fine. Also note that with typical head tube angles on these bikes (72 ish degrees) so raising the stem beings the bars back towards the rider. In the 80's the top tube length tended to be similar to a comparable sized road bike but around 1990 this started to change and top tubes started getting much longer. Thus I will start a drop bar conversion fit by setting the saddle and then setting the bars appropriately.
1. Setup saddle position (height and setback from BB)
2. Set stem/bar position (drop and reach)
Stem length does affect handling but IMO that length stem is fine. Also note that with typical head tube angles on these bikes (72 ish degrees) so raising the stem beings the bars back towards the rider. In the 80's the top tube length tended to be similar to a comparable sized road bike but around 1990 this started to change and top tubes started getting much longer. Thus I will start a drop bar conversion fit by setting the saddle and then setting the bars appropriately.
Too really know you will have too ride it as is and try a shorter one one as well.
It's worth doing just to see.
I tried different lengths just to see and by accident I found a length that let's me look over my shoulder and not unintentionally steer in that direction. That was a ten mill difference.
So for a good handling bike it's important.
And you won't be able know till you try.
Even if that is wrong you will get used to it and it will seem fine.
It's worth doing just to see.
I tried different lengths just to see and by accident I found a length that let's me look over my shoulder and not unintentionally steer in that direction. That was a ten mill difference.
So for a good handling bike it's important.
And you won't be able know till you try.
Even if that is wrong you will get used to it and it will seem fine.
#7233
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Thanks Ork-- those Hollowtech setups seem to be pretty widely available, either the M6000 or the M5100. Are you running a 10-speed chain/cassette? Interesting that the chain retention is good without a clutch RD. It would be nice not to have to source a new derailleur, just in the interest of keeping costs down...
#7234
Thrifty Bill
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I have seen dramatically different top tube lengths in the same brand and era MTBs, for the same ST length. At least 2 inches of variation, which is 50mm.
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#7235
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The Warthog in the sand.
#7236
Junior Member
The sensation you're feeling is called "wheel flop". There are a number of factors which combine: rake, trail and wheel weight. Here's an article which dives into how headtube angle, rake, trail affect how one's bike will handle.
My 26'er dropbar conversions all have a significant amount of wheel flop but also handle very well at speed.
All About Steering
My 26'er dropbar conversions all have a significant amount of wheel flop but also handle very well at speed.
All About Steering
That's a gorgeous warthog.
#7237
Happy banana slug
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#7238
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This was an early Covid project...
My '92 Paramount Series 90 (owned since new), silver-brazed Prestige built by the Keirin guys @ Panasonic. Specialized BB-1 drops w/Nitto MT-11, XC-Pro 1x7s drivetrain w/Euclid crankset (mmm...Greaseguard), 987 cantis w/RRL-SR levers (mmm...drillium) , Campy Atek rims & DTH rubber on XC-Pro hubs. Still have the original flat-bar cockpit in a drawer.
Suffers from a bit of wheel-flop, but still a favorite. My all-purpose ride...greenway w/family, gravel, urban commuter, bring it!
My '92 Paramount Series 90 (owned since new), silver-brazed Prestige built by the Keirin guys @ Panasonic. Specialized BB-1 drops w/Nitto MT-11, XC-Pro 1x7s drivetrain w/Euclid crankset (mmm...Greaseguard), 987 cantis w/RRL-SR levers (mmm...drillium) , Campy Atek rims & DTH rubber on XC-Pro hubs. Still have the original flat-bar cockpit in a drawer.
Suffers from a bit of wheel-flop, but still a favorite. My all-purpose ride...greenway w/family, gravel, urban commuter, bring it!
Last edited by dookie; 11-17-21 at 11:09 AM.
#7240
Junior Member
Finally got to 10 posts. Here's my recent 950 project, picked up as frame and fork at the local co-op and then finished up out of the parts bin. I've been surprised at how much I like it.
#7241
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#7242
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#7243
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How do they feel? I have a pair, but haven't mounted them yet. I pulled them out of the packaging and they seemed a bit plastick-y
#7244
Senior Member
I love this thread so much!
Did anyone make steel disc brake mountain bikes back in the day?
Everything I see with discs is aluminium ....
Dookie, that Paramount is awesome !
Did anyone make steel disc brake mountain bikes back in the day?
Everything I see with discs is aluminium ....
Dookie, that Paramount is awesome !
#7245
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I'm very pleased with them. There is a non-drilled version that may be slightly different (but I doubt it). They are solidly built and very smooth. They fit my hands well and the odd lever bulge is in the perfect spot for a bit of extra leverage when braking while on the hoods. Pair well with the 987s at least...
Last edited by dookie; 11-18-21 at 01:52 PM.
#7246
Junior Member
May I ask a question?
When you do a drop bar conversion, how do you handle the V brake cable pull? I have read that the STI levers used with the drop bars do not pull enough cable to activate the V brakes versus a road bike center mount caliper type rim brake. I converted my vintage Peugeot from down tube shifting to MicroShift levers, but the brakes were a non-issue. I would love to convert my hybrid to drop bar, but the brakes are holding me back. Thanks for any info!
#7247
Junior Member
When you do a drop bar conversion, how do you handle the V brake cable pull? I have read that the STI levers used with the drop bars do not pull enough cable to activate the V brakes versus a road bike center mount caliper type rim brake. I converted my vintage Peugeot from down tube shifting to MicroShift levers, but the brakes were a non-issue. I would love to convert my hybrid to drop bar, but the brakes are holding me back. Thanks for any info!
#7248
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When you do a drop bar conversion, how do you handle the V brake cable pull? I have read that the STI levers used with the drop bars do not pull enough cable to activate the V brakes versus a road bike center mount caliper type rim brake. I converted my vintage Peugeot from down tube shifting to MicroShift levers, but the brakes were a non-issue. I would love to convert my hybrid to drop bar, but the brakes are holding me back. Thanks for any info!
Also, there are linear-pull (V-brake) road levers available, though they're not common. I have Tektro RL520 levers on my old Univega, and they work great.
#7249
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Exactly what inspired me in a german mtb forum! Currently rethinking my 1995 scott vantage 2.0. Its 1x8 by using a 9 speed xt shifter. That makes a little trouble when u don't shift correctly. What i need is a new 9 speed freehub or even new wheels like the mavic crossride 26 UB. Hopefully santa wont forget me this year.
Moreover these maxxis crossmark look good but feel like glue on the street. Which ones Do you think i should take? Conti speed king or Conti Grand Prix? I really want it as fast as possible.
It's bit small so a drop bar would make it even more uncomfortable for me. But damn that would look amazing.
Moreover these maxxis crossmark look good but feel like glue on the street. Which ones Do you think i should take? Conti speed king or Conti Grand Prix? I really want it as fast as possible.
It's bit small so a drop bar would make it even more uncomfortable for me. But damn that would look amazing.
Last edited by Byebyebayern; 11-24-21 at 01:32 PM.
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