Dedicated bike for indoor trainer - Cheap 'Eurobike'?
08-28-21, 06:05 PM
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Dedicated bike for indoor trainer - Cheap 'Eurobike'?
Hey People,
I ride an indoor trainer mainly for elevation ( I live in the flat part of Florida).
My Tri bike is used for both the trainer and the road. I'd like to have a dedicated bike on the trainer and leave my tri bike ready for the road.
Has anyone ever tried a cheap Amazon 'Eurobike'? I can get one for $250USD. I'd change out the groupset, install a bullhorn bar with clip-on aero bars.
I'm worried about frame flex, I'm not super strong on the bike but I can hit ~1000watts for a few seconds. My trainer doesn't use the rear wheel of the bike, so no rub if there is some flex.
I've looked for used frames but they end up costing more that $250. Do you think the cheap bike will work?
I ride an indoor trainer mainly for elevation ( I live in the flat part of Florida).
My Tri bike is used for both the trainer and the road. I'd like to have a dedicated bike on the trainer and leave my tri bike ready for the road.
Has anyone ever tried a cheap Amazon 'Eurobike'? I can get one for $250USD. I'd change out the groupset, install a bullhorn bar with clip-on aero bars.
I'm worried about frame flex, I'm not super strong on the bike but I can hit ~1000watts for a few seconds. My trainer doesn't use the rear wheel of the bike, so no rub if there is some flex.
I've looked for used frames but they end up costing more that $250. Do you think the cheap bike will work?
08-29-21, 08:59 AM
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Go Used
You can buy a “real” bike with real components for the cost of the Eurobike once you consider the time/effort/cost of swapping out components. In the $400-$450 range you could buy a nice mid-2000’s steel bike with Ultegra. If it’s going to live on a direct drive trainer, only the geometry, pedals and components will really matter.
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08-29-21, 09:12 AM
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In my own case I tend(ed) to leave one bike in the trainer simply due to how difficult it is to clamp and unclamp from the axle lock. That thing took some real brute force, and apparently I just don't have it any more.
08-29-21, 04:31 PM
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Personally I'd steer clear. The geometry is probably going to be rubbish and something is bound to break or crap out fairly quickly when you're hammering on the turbo. You'd likely be better off searching for a cheap second hand bike or frame in your size. Would the Eurobike work? Probably, but I'd look elsewhere.
Did you see the GCN video about the Eurobike?
Must be good training dragging a heavy smart trainer up the climbs...
Did you see the GCN video about the Eurobike?
Must be good training dragging a heavy smart trainer up the climbs...
08-29-21, 07:48 PM
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I don't think people realize how flat parts of the Mid-Atlantic/East Coast are. Trainers' the only way to train for a climb longer or higher than a highway overpass.
@ I'd look for a well spec'ed used bike for the trainer mule, rather than something new and cheap. If it's only going to be used on the trainer, then you can use a bike that's a size or two smaller, and monkey with the stem and seatpost to get the fit right, since it's not going to go down the road, all it has to do is hold you up. Small and X-small bikes often stay available longer, and sometimes for less money than more common stuff like 56's.
08-29-21, 08:03 PM
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I appreciate all the info. I've been crunching numbers and checking out my old parts bin. I'll wait for a good used frame to pop up. I never thought of looking for smaller sizes, that opens up quite a few options. These damn first world problems...
08-29-21, 08:52 PM
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Sr Member on Sr bikes
Just a few comments/suggestions…
I do agree that it would behoove you to have a dedicated bike for the trainer. And thereby keeping your race bike in good condition for race day. That’s how I rolled when I was racing tris frequently years ago. I kept the race bike in good, clean condition and only rode it a day or two in advance of a race, and then on race day. Training was all on my other road bikes.
But WRT hills…if you live in flat Florida …unless you travel to other parts of the country for races…why even worry about hill training? When I lived in Jacksonville, FL and raced frequently in north Florida…I never was in a race with any notable hills. BUT…if you are intent on hill training…you could possibly do what some of my friends would do. On the non-race weekends they’d load up the bike and drive up to the hilly parts of south Georgia and get two or three rides in over the course of an overnight stay.
And I will tell you that out there on the back roads between Jacksonville and Stark…near Camp Blanding…(either Rt 16 or Rt 21)…there is a significant gully that the road dips down into (probably an ancient drained lake) that I’d ride out to and go up and down several times just for some hill riding. Maybe you can find it.
Good luck.
Dan
I do agree that it would behoove you to have a dedicated bike for the trainer. And thereby keeping your race bike in good condition for race day. That’s how I rolled when I was racing tris frequently years ago. I kept the race bike in good, clean condition and only rode it a day or two in advance of a race, and then on race day. Training was all on my other road bikes.
But WRT hills…if you live in flat Florida …unless you travel to other parts of the country for races…why even worry about hill training? When I lived in Jacksonville, FL and raced frequently in north Florida…I never was in a race with any notable hills. BUT…if you are intent on hill training…you could possibly do what some of my friends would do. On the non-race weekends they’d load up the bike and drive up to the hilly parts of south Georgia and get two or three rides in over the course of an overnight stay.
And I will tell you that out there on the back roads between Jacksonville and Stark…near Camp Blanding…(either Rt 16 or Rt 21)…there is a significant gully that the road dips down into (probably an ancient drained lake) that I’d ride out to and go up and down several times just for some hill riding. Maybe you can find it.
Good luck.
Dan
