Groupset tiers and diminishing returns
#151
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Except the weight savings, the measurable (barely) benefits are in the bearing parts; a 105 rear derailleur has jockey wheels with bushings which are less efficient from the start and get worse with contamination, while Dura-ace run on sealed bearings. On the other hand, a cheap set of aftermarket Tacx ones are slightly better than both. Similarly, Dura-ace chains, Dura-ace bottom brackets and hubs (not a question raised, but). Bearing quality is a bigger performance gain than the few hundred grams of weight - but you don't need to pay for the full Dura-ace groupset to get that.
I couldn't actually detect a difference in shifting quality between R7000 105 and R9100 Dura-ace, both simply shift when you want them to, even under strain. For a cost / benefit perspective, 105 is ridicilously hard to beat, especially with a few cheap upgrades.
I couldn't actually detect a difference in shifting quality between R7000 105 and R9100 Dura-ace, both simply shift when you want them to, even under strain. For a cost / benefit perspective, 105 is ridicilously hard to beat, especially with a few cheap upgrades.
Perfect thanks! That's the way I was thinking, but didn't have any experience with Dura-Ace to know if there was perhaps a final significant step up to the top rung. But sounds like there isn't.
I think with any future builds I do with Shimano mechanical I will just stick with 105, with perhaps a few minor bearing upgrades as the originals wear like you mentioned (was already thinking of upgrading the jockey wheels on my 105 after 2 years use).
For Shimano electronic I would go with Ultegra as of course there is no 105 level (yet). Sram I would probably go with Rival for much the same reason. Campag I would go with Chorus.
But as per my other thread about 1x drivetrains, I'm now pretty sold on using Campag Ekar for this particular build.
The only reason I considered this bike build to be "money no object" was because I've never taken this approach to building a new bike before. I've always just hunted around in the end of season sales for a bargain and this time wanted to build something up without any real compromise. But that doesn't mean blinging it up on every single component just for the hell of it! For example, things like £1500 Ceramic Speed OSPWs don't interest me in the slightest as there is no real world benefit to me (or probably anyone else for that matter!). Some other things are more debatable like groupset choice.
I might start a new thread with my full bike build, but then again after this thread I might not!
Cheers,
Pete
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#153
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You are allowed to worry about time spent without a functioning bike, during a race or otherwise in the case of damage (or these days, finding parts). But I suppose then you'll say that money no object, have 2 or 3 identically setup bikes, and pay for a support van to travel behind you on rides, etc?
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#156
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When I built my first Workswell (a Cervelo R-series clone) which was also my first all-CF bike, I didn't let cost hinder me, but I did try to determine what was killer and what was overkill.
I went with Ultegra but back then you could get full Ultegra group sets from England for less than Tiagra costs now. I didn't do the Zipp wheels or the Boyd wheels because I figured for my riding, Vueltas would be Almost as light and plenty strong for one-fifth the price. (I am still riding those wheels though eventually I will have to replace the bearings.) I chose generic CF cockpit parts because no matter what anyone tells me, Thompson Elite or Zipp Service Course Cannot be light-years more advanced than the generic knock-offs----we are talking seat posts (basic CF tube) and stems (relatively simple shapes with exceedingly simple functions. (And actually, I guess Kalloy Uno metal stems are just as light and strong and even cheaper .... )) I went with Toseek knock-off aero bars, despite everyone telling me all that stuff would asplode and kill me ..... It cracks me up that a week ago i saw those same bars being recommended on another "cost is not the prime concern" build in a different post.
It isn't just what is "The Best." Some stuff might convey certain advantages but at performance levels or load demands I will never reach.
And @PeteHski, if you think this thread was (and still can be) beyond ridiculous, you should look at some of the debates over carbon frames and forks from six or seven years back. Fork threads were especially stupid, as CF forks had already been around for 30 years .... but once this crew found out, we were all warned repeatedly that CF forks were killers, and we were all going to die when our forks asploded for no reason on high-speed downhills.
Or for a little fun, go look up the early debates on disc brakes, which, it was scientifically proven, were going to amputate all the limbs of all the riders in all the bike races around the world. No, seriously, disc brakes cutting people open was a real debate issue for months here on BF. And of course, the people who knew the most were the people who never had and never would use discs.
Yeah ... start a build thread .... if you are up for it ... but I can tell you from the outset that you are using the wrong barrel adjusters and that head-tube top-cap is going to asplode and kill you. And I know I am correct because I have the ultimate proof---I wrote it on BF.
I went with Ultegra but back then you could get full Ultegra group sets from England for less than Tiagra costs now. I didn't do the Zipp wheels or the Boyd wheels because I figured for my riding, Vueltas would be Almost as light and plenty strong for one-fifth the price. (I am still riding those wheels though eventually I will have to replace the bearings.) I chose generic CF cockpit parts because no matter what anyone tells me, Thompson Elite or Zipp Service Course Cannot be light-years more advanced than the generic knock-offs----we are talking seat posts (basic CF tube) and stems (relatively simple shapes with exceedingly simple functions. (And actually, I guess Kalloy Uno metal stems are just as light and strong and even cheaper .... )) I went with Toseek knock-off aero bars, despite everyone telling me all that stuff would asplode and kill me ..... It cracks me up that a week ago i saw those same bars being recommended on another "cost is not the prime concern" build in a different post.
It isn't just what is "The Best." Some stuff might convey certain advantages but at performance levels or load demands I will never reach.
And @PeteHski, if you think this thread was (and still can be) beyond ridiculous, you should look at some of the debates over carbon frames and forks from six or seven years back. Fork threads were especially stupid, as CF forks had already been around for 30 years .... but once this crew found out, we were all warned repeatedly that CF forks were killers, and we were all going to die when our forks asploded for no reason on high-speed downhills.
Or for a little fun, go look up the early debates on disc brakes, which, it was scientifically proven, were going to amputate all the limbs of all the riders in all the bike races around the world. No, seriously, disc brakes cutting people open was a real debate issue for months here on BF. And of course, the people who knew the most were the people who never had and never would use discs.
Yeah ... start a build thread .... if you are up for it ... but I can tell you from the outset that you are using the wrong barrel adjusters and that head-tube top-cap is going to asplode and kill you. And I know I am correct because I have the ultimate proof---I wrote it on BF.
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#157
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The best way to get the most out of your bike is to learn to maintain it yourself. Regular cleaning and maintenance will give you the best and most enjoyable experience. I keep spare parts so when I need them i have them. Tires, chains, brake pads and tubes. I actually purchased replacement chainrings and cassette for when they are needed since I have lots of miles on my bike.
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And @PeteHski, if you think this thread was (and still can be) beyond ridiculous, you should look at some of the debates over carbon frames and forks from six or seven years back. Fork threads were especially stupid, as CF forks had already been around for 30 years .... but once this crew found out, we were all warned repeatedly that CF forks were killers, and we were all going to die when our forks asploded for no reason on high-speed downhills.
Or for a little fun, go look up the early debates on disc brakes, which, it was scientifically proven, were going to amputate all the limbs of all the riders in all the bike races around the world. No, seriously, disc brakes cutting people open was a real debate issue for months here on BF. And of course, the people who knew the most were the people who never had and never would use discs.
Yeah ... start a build thread .... if you are up for it ... but I can tell you from the outset that you are using the wrong barrel adjusters and that head-tube top-cap is going to asplode and kill you. And I know I am correct because I have the ultimate proof---I wrote it on BF.
#159
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Maybe not COST, but you can still worry about how much time it spends not running.
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You'd think that, but then you read about just what a PITA supercars like the Lamborghini Countach are, and you wonder about rich people.
I bet if he had to do all over again, the OP would choose a different phrase. It would eliminate at least half the posts on the thread.
And enough with the OP didn't literally mean money was no object. It was a pointless pedantic nitpick the first 726 times you said it.
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You'd think that, but then you read about just what a PITA supercars like the Lamborghini Countach are, and you wonder about rich people.
I bet if he had to do all over again, the OP would choose a different phrase. It would eliminate at least half the posts on the thread.
I bet if he had to do all over again, the OP would choose a different phrase. It would eliminate at least half the posts on the thread.
Wouldn't matter. These people would find something else to nitpick.
As to the Lambo being a PITA, it's still a status symbol billboard which might outweigh the PITA aspect. Your groupset? That's missing the billboard aspect.
Last edited by livedarklions; 09-08-21 at 01:51 PM.
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No doubt each has their own ranking, and no ordering is really wrong...so long as the criteria fit the person's needs.
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I distinctly remember at least one of my bikes going bang. Unnoticed hole in the rim strip. I fixed an unexplained flat with a new tube, pumped up the tire, put the bike back in its place against the wall, and started doing something else.
*BANG!*
Scared the crap outta me! The previously unexplained flat became an explained flat.
Tubes were about $4 then, so it was a pretty big bang for 4 bucks.
*BANG!*
Scared the crap outta me! The previously unexplained flat became an explained flat.
Tubes were about $4 then, so it was a pretty big bang for 4 bucks.
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I distinctly remember at least one of my bikes going bang. Unnoticed hole in the rim strip. I fixed an unexplained flat with a new tube, pumped up the tire, put the bike back in its place against the wall, and started doing something else.
*BANG!*
Scared the crap outta me! The previously unexplained flat became an explained flat.
Tubes were about $4 then, so it was a pretty big bang for 4 bucks.
*BANG!*
Scared the crap outta me! The previously unexplained flat became an explained flat.
Tubes were about $4 then, so it was a pretty big bang for 4 bucks.
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#168
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And enough with the OP didn't literally mean money was no object. It was a pointless pedantic nitpick the first 726 times you said it.
Post #152
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No one ever really means it. It's a figure of speech. It literally means one would pay infinity dollars, which is never true. Are you saying the phrase should never be used? He's explained how he's using the term several times, but you guys want to act like you've uncovered some sort of crime here. It's a really childish display of crappy "gotcha".
Really, the horse died about a zillion posts ago, stop beating it. He can use the phrase as he likes. And I know, there's no actual dead horse.
Last edited by livedarklions; 09-08-21 at 05:51 PM.
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Are you saying the phrase should never be used? He's explained how he's using the term several times, but you guys want to act like you've uncovered some sort of crime here. It's a really childish display of crappy "gotcha".
Really, the horse died about a zillion posts ago, stop beating it. He can use the phrase as he likes. And I know, there's no actual dead horse.
#171
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You're the only one who seems to think that's what it means. The rest of us, including the OP and the dictionaries, don't agree with that definition.
I don't care if he uses the term or not. But, it's probably not in his best interest to keep using it in a way that isn't consistent with its accepted meaning.
I'm not beating it at all. I simply pointed out that it is the OP that brought the term back into the thread, not the person you criticized.
I don't care if he uses the term or not. But, it's probably not in his best interest to keep using it in a way that isn't consistent with its accepted meaning.
I'm not beating it at all. I simply pointed out that it is the OP that brought the term back into the thread, not the person you criticized.
I stand corrected. There's no horse, but there's plenty of horses' asses.
"No object" means that there's no figure too high. The literal meaning is definitely not possible, the dictionaries are not refuting that, they're describing usage. The usage is pretty much the same as "the sky's the limit" . Do you guys go nuts like this when someone uses that phrase? You know that someone isn't actually piling money to the sky, right?
How about "pulling out all the stops" ? Also, pretty much a synonym, yet they aren't actually talking about pipe organs.
BTW, his usage is completely consistent with the dictionary usage, it's simply an implied condition --if there's a difference that he'll be able to appreciate, then money is no object. He knows it's more expensive, he's asking if people have actually noticed an appreciable difference in quality. Why this obvious point seems to be going over your collective heads is beyond me. It's a perfectly reasonable way to put the question.
Self-appointed word police drive me crazy. They always get it wrong.
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If we changed all the names and showed all the posters this thread a few months from now, most of them would say, " What a bunch of petty, nit-picking donkeyholes. Those folks all need to get lives."
But this is what makes BF keep rolling along ....
At least there is some actual humor in this thread. Thanks for those who contributed ..... even if, perhaps, unwittingly .....
But this is what makes BF keep rolling along ....
At least there is some actual humor in this thread. Thanks for those who contributed ..... even if, perhaps, unwittingly .....
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#173
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Perfect thanks! That's the way I was thinking, but didn't have any experience with Dura-Ace to know if there was perhaps a final significant step up to the top rung. But sounds like there isn't.
I think with any future builds I do with Shimano mechanical I will just stick with 105, with perhaps a few minor bearing upgrades as the originals wear like you mentioned (was already thinking of upgrading the jockey wheels on my 105 after 2 years use).
For Shimano electronic I would go with Ultegra as of course there is no 105 level (yet). Sram I would probably go with Rival for much the same reason. Campag I would go with Chorus.
But as per my other thread about 1x drivetrains, I'm now pretty sold on using Campag Ekar for this particular build.
The only reason I considered this bike build to be "money no object" was because I've never taken this approach to building a new bike before. I've always just hunted around in the end of season sales for a bargain and this time wanted to build something up without any real compromise. But that doesn't mean blinging it up on every single component just for the hell of it! For example, things like £1500 Ceramic Speed OSPWs don't interest me in the slightest as there is no real world benefit to me (or probably anyone else for that matter!). Some other things are more debatable like groupset choice.
I might start a new thread with my full bike build, but then again after this thread I might not!
Cheers,
Pete
I think with any future builds I do with Shimano mechanical I will just stick with 105, with perhaps a few minor bearing upgrades as the originals wear like you mentioned (was already thinking of upgrading the jockey wheels on my 105 after 2 years use).
For Shimano electronic I would go with Ultegra as of course there is no 105 level (yet). Sram I would probably go with Rival for much the same reason. Campag I would go with Chorus.
But as per my other thread about 1x drivetrains, I'm now pretty sold on using Campag Ekar for this particular build.
The only reason I considered this bike build to be "money no object" was because I've never taken this approach to building a new bike before. I've always just hunted around in the end of season sales for a bargain and this time wanted to build something up without any real compromise. But that doesn't mean blinging it up on every single component just for the hell of it! For example, things like £1500 Ceramic Speed OSPWs don't interest me in the slightest as there is no real world benefit to me (or probably anyone else for that matter!). Some other things are more debatable like groupset choice.
I might start a new thread with my full bike build, but then again after this thread I might not!
Cheers,
Pete
https://www.bikeforums.net/22132065-post11.html
Just to clarify my above post. Ultegra and DA are made from two clams shells that are glued/bonded together. Those are the ones that break from fatigue. 105 also has hollow arms and spindle, but is not bonded. Its made with hollow forged arms, that are a bit heavier but, to my knowledge, wont break. That would be my pick. Tiagra is made with solid arms and a hollow spindle. It wont break but is heavy, but fairly relatively inepensive.
EDIT: Its all in here.
https://youtu.be/FkEkQV-zK0s
EDIT: Its all in here.
https://youtu.be/FkEkQV-zK0s
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