Has anyone done a study on how Wet Weather impinges in a Bike?
#1
Full Member
Thread Starter
Has anyone done a study on how Watery surfaced impinge oin a Bike?
Has anyone done a study on how Water impinges on a Bike as you drive along wet surfaces? I’m rebuilding my single speed which has been ridden on many a Rainy day, and I found that the front bearings are shining like new. The rear bearings are a mess and corroded and there was moisture behind them. I haven’t removed the cranks yet and I’m curious to see if the insides there we’ll look like the rear bearings. I’m guessing that the chain throws up a lot of water into the drive components in turbulent cloud as you move through watery roads and trails . I thought the front was going to have all the corrosion prior to this. I guess the water splashes on the front but doesn’t get that churning from the chain? Don’t know if a chain guard would be of any use? Like the ones they put in kids bikes back in the 70’s and 60’s?
Last edited by AJW2W11E; 10-14-21 at 11:27 PM.
#2
Guest
Join Date: Sep 2020
Posts: 2,888
Mentioned: 13 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1346 Post(s)
Liked 3,270 Times
in
1,439 Posts
Dutch bikes, however, often have fully enclosed chainguards, and much cleaner drivetrains as a result.
Likes For Rolla:
#3
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Bastrop Texas
Posts: 4,467
Bikes: Univega, Peu P6, Peu PR-10, Ted Williams, Peu UO-8, Peu UO-18 Mixte, Peu Dolomites
Mentioned: 13 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 957 Post(s)
Liked 1,619 Times
in
1,039 Posts
It does not rain in cycling... It rains on cyclists
And when it rains on cyclists... Cyclists get wet...
Salt water is a killer. Dirty water is bad. Marine Grease is fantastic. I have seen water from ridding in rain get so deep into a bike you would think it was submerged... Ha
And when it rains on cyclists... Cyclists get wet...
Salt water is a killer. Dirty water is bad. Marine Grease is fantastic. I have seen water from ridding in rain get so deep into a bike you would think it was submerged... Ha
__________________
No matter where you're at... There you are... Δf:=f(1/2)-f(-1/2)
No matter where you're at... There you are... Δf:=f(1/2)-f(-1/2)
#4
Banned
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Mississauga/Toronto, Ontario canada
Posts: 8,721
Bikes: I have 3 singlespeed/fixed gear bikes
Mentioned: 30 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4227 Post(s)
Liked 2,488 Times
in
1,286 Posts
Modern hubs and bottom brackets with sealed bearings are pretty good at keeping water out . I never had a problem.
#5
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2015
Posts: 15,481
Bikes: 2015 Workswell 066, 2017 Workswell 093, 2014 Dawes Sheila, 1983 Cannondale 500, 1984 Raleigh Olympian, 2007 Cannondale Rize 4, 2017 Fuji Sportif 1 LE
Mentioned: 144 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 7649 Post(s)
Liked 3,465 Times
in
1,831 Posts
#7
Expired Member
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: TN
Posts: 11,507
Mentioned: 37 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3657 Post(s)
Liked 5,394 Times
in
2,739 Posts
Yep, you can trust your own observation in this case. No need to search for confirmation.
#8
Banned
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Mississauga/Toronto, Ontario canada
Posts: 8,721
Bikes: I have 3 singlespeed/fixed gear bikes
Mentioned: 30 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4227 Post(s)
Liked 2,488 Times
in
1,286 Posts
No it's not, a belt drive isn't the best option for rainy places...I have ridden through 13 Canadian winters with with fixed gear and single speed chain driven bikes...A little bit of rust on a chain is nothing to worry about.
Likes For wolfchild:
#9
working on my sandal tan
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: CID
Posts: 22,627
Bikes: 1991 Bianchi Eros, 1964 Armstrong, 1988 Diamondback Ascent, 1988 Bianchi Premio, 1987 Bianchi Sport SX, 1980s Raleigh mixte (hers), All-City Space Horse (hers)
Mentioned: 98 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3870 Post(s)
Liked 2,563 Times
in
1,577 Posts
Has anyone done a study on how Water impinges on a Bike as you drive along wet surfaces? I’m rebuilding my single speed which has been ridden on many a Rainy day, and I found that the front bearings are shining like new. The rear bearings are a mess and corroded and there was moisture behind them. I haven’t removed the cranks yet and I’m curious to see if the insides there we’ll look like the rear bearings. I’m guessing that the chain throws up a lot of water into the drive components in turbulent cloud as you move through watery roads and trails . I thought the front was going to have all the corrosion prior to this. I guess the water splashes on the front but doesn’t get that churning from the chain? Don’t know if a chain guard would be of any use? Like the ones they put in kids bikes back in the 70’s and 60’s?
__________________
RUSA #7498
Originally Posted by noglider
People in this forum are not typical.
Last edited by ThermionicScott; 10-16-21 at 03:46 PM.
Likes For ThermionicScott:
#10
Banned
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Mississauga/Toronto, Ontario canada
Posts: 8,721
Bikes: I have 3 singlespeed/fixed gear bikes
Mentioned: 30 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4227 Post(s)
Liked 2,488 Times
in
1,286 Posts
I’m rebuilding my single speed which has been ridden on many a Rainy day, and I found that the front bearings are shining like new. The rear bearings are a mess and corroded and there was moisture behind them. I haven’t removed the cranks yet and I’m curious to see if the insides there we’ll look like the rear bearings. I’m guessing that the chain throws up a lot of water into the drive components in turbulent cloud as you move through watery roads and trails .
#11
Full Member
Thread Starter
What type of bearings does your hub have ??...Are they sealed bearings or are they loose ball bearings ??....If the sealed bearings are bad , you will need to replace the whole bearing assembly....If it's loose ball bearings, then just clean everything out and put some fresh grease in there and then adjust everything.
#13
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: Portland, OR
Posts: 12,892
Bikes: (2) ti TiCycles, 2007 w/ triple and 2011 fixed, 1979 Peter Mooney, ~1983 Trek 420 now fixed and ~1973 Raleigh Carlton Competition gravel grinder
Mentioned: 129 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4792 Post(s)
Liked 3,918 Times
in
2,548 Posts
And with a lot of rust and frozen links, I used to just slide the wheel forward to get the proper chain slack back. (Three frozen links was my limit.) Then it was lube and free those links.) Boston. No outside water and I was not welcome to clean the bike inside. Fix gears and single speeds also do not suffer drive train damage on right side crashes which happen on really bad ice days. No car so not riding on a work day was not an option.
#14
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: 25 miles northwest of Boston
Posts: 29,546
Bikes: Bottecchia Sprint, GT Timberline 29r, Marin Muirwoods 29er, Trek FX Alpha 7.0
Mentioned: 112 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 5223 Post(s)
Liked 3,579 Times
in
2,341 Posts
water & mud are funny things. I've got a cpl favorite pics
mudflaps help
but water also goes out to the sides
sometimes it's best to roll real slowly
mudflaps help
but water also goes out to the sides
sometimes it's best to roll real slowly
Likes For rumrunn6:
#15
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2012
Location: Point Reyes Station, California
Posts: 4,526
Bikes: Indeed!
Mentioned: 92 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1506 Post(s)
Liked 3,463 Times
in
1,130 Posts
I think part of the OP's question was about how the water gets where it gets. I blame the front tire for much of it. The front tire throws water and mud back towards the downtube, crankset, your feet and legs, and even the rear wheel. This could be why the OP's front hub was relatively clean compared to the rear.
Brent
Brent
Likes For obrentharris:
#16
Senior Member
Like the posters before me pointed out, chain has very little to do with water and dirt getting into rear wheel bearings; it comes mostly from the front tire. Chain can't throw anything up from the road as it doesn't contact it (except if you ride in water/snow/mud deep enough that the derailleur, or chainring in case of a single speed, drags through it).
That's also the reason why during the autumn/winter my rear brake pads wear faster than the front ones, even though I use the front brake more.
That's also the reason why during the autumn/winter my rear brake pads wear faster than the front ones, even though I use the front brake more.
Likes For subgrade:
#17
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2015
Posts: 15,481
Bikes: 2015 Workswell 066, 2017 Workswell 093, 2014 Dawes Sheila, 1983 Cannondale 500, 1984 Raleigh Olympian, 2007 Cannondale Rize 4, 2017 Fuji Sportif 1 LE
Mentioned: 144 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 7649 Post(s)
Liked 3,465 Times
in
1,831 Posts
Likes For Maelochs:
#19
Junior Member
Join Date: Oct 2020
Location: Tampa, FL
Posts: 126
Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 65 Post(s)
Liked 107 Times
in
46 Posts
A huge part is just moisture in the air. You do not need a great deal of water to damage components. I don’t mean damage severely but more like cosmetic such as surface rust.
However, humidity plays a huge part in the destruction of components that I agree on.
I live in Florida and I can’t tell you how many times I’ve tried to warranty frames and components for customers and it all gets rejected. The upkeep is immense and I don’t point a finger or say, “I told you to clean every week.” because really. Who does?
I am thankful enough to have a shop that brings in representatives from Shimano and Sram and funny enough the newest Dura Ace from Shimano was specifically designed for the first time a plug system in the cranks. This was because the amount of failures due to moisture in the humid areas of the United States destroying their components.
Another great horrible example was Trek’s BB90 in their frames. A press fit bearing, plus humidity, equals rust that expands and distorts the actual bottom bracket in the frame. Huge headache. You’d have to reshave the carbon or slap in a bigger bearing.
Long story short, just keep your bike inside when stored and grease everything.
However, humidity plays a huge part in the destruction of components that I agree on.
I live in Florida and I can’t tell you how many times I’ve tried to warranty frames and components for customers and it all gets rejected. The upkeep is immense and I don’t point a finger or say, “I told you to clean every week.” because really. Who does?
I am thankful enough to have a shop that brings in representatives from Shimano and Sram and funny enough the newest Dura Ace from Shimano was specifically designed for the first time a plug system in the cranks. This was because the amount of failures due to moisture in the humid areas of the United States destroying their components.
Another great horrible example was Trek’s BB90 in their frames. A press fit bearing, plus humidity, equals rust that expands and distorts the actual bottom bracket in the frame. Huge headache. You’d have to reshave the carbon or slap in a bigger bearing.
Long story short, just keep your bike inside when stored and grease everything.
Last edited by Yelbom15; 10-22-21 at 08:45 PM.
#20
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2021
Posts: 8,381
Mentioned: 12 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4388 Post(s)
Liked 4,828 Times
in
2,984 Posts
The main thing I notice with wet weather riding is greatly accelerated drivetrain wear, which has been evaluated by the likes of zerofrictioncycling.com.au
Bearings are as good as their seals.
Bearings are as good as their seals.
#22
Full Member
Thread Starter
I’m the OP. I ride daily out here in the rainy Pacific Northwest. On my last overhaul, there was a reddish brown film on all my internals and I replaced everything.
I am new to bikes and I’ve given it some thought.
Part if the thing I love about Bikes is they are so minimalistic.
Just 20 pounds of parts can turn your body into a 20 mph machine that can carry you 20 miles.
For that I am okay with replacing the internals every year!
I am new to bikes and I’ve given it some thought.
Part if the thing I love about Bikes is they are so minimalistic.
Just 20 pounds of parts can turn your body into a 20 mph machine that can carry you 20 miles.
For that I am okay with replacing the internals every year!
#23
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2021
Posts: 4,083
Mentioned: 6 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2333 Post(s)
Liked 2,097 Times
in
1,314 Posts
I find that a fendered bike with high quality sealed bearings, Trek BB90 fiasco excepted, is not hard to keep maintained. The chain is the biggest challenge. if you do not have a front fender with a mudflat, the chain is going to be sprayed with a slurry of sand, soil, and "gunk". This means taking the chain off and cleaning it and lubricating after such a ride. However, I can get away with a simple relube when the bike has said fenders. On my recumbent, the chain is higher and survives wet weather much better. The water off the front tire hits me in the derriere. I find sealed derailleur pulleys to survive wet weather fairly well and worth the cost. I also replace the junk bearing mfg and bike shops use with high quality ones and that also helps.
Likes For GhostRider62:
#24
Full Member
Thread Starter
I find that a…. On my recumbent, the chain is higher and survives wet weather much better. The water off the front tire hits me in the derriere. I find sealed derailleur pulleys to survive wet weather fairly well and worth the cost. I also replace the junk bearing mfg and bike shops use with high quality ones and that also helps.
Likes For AJW2W11E: