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2 mm screw stipped - is there an easy out tool to fit?

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2 mm screw stipped - is there an easy out tool to fit?

Old 09-26-23, 05:44 PM
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2 mm screw stipped - is there an easy out tool to fit?

Hi bike forum-ers. I'm trying to bleed a Hayes Dyno hydraulic brake lever. While attempting to remove the 2 mm bleed hole screw, I notice it's stripped. I can't find an easy out tool that small. And, I can't find an inexpensive replacement lever. Any ideas? TIA
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Old 09-26-23, 05:50 PM
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slightly larger allen?

try a 5/64 allen wrench-it maybe just large enough to grab the worn area.may want to heat the area with a heat gun some in case its loctited in place.
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Old 09-26-23, 05:58 PM
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Can you post a photo. Might help to figure out a solution. Try '02 nrs's suggestion first.
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Old 09-26-23, 06:04 PM
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good idea, but the screw won't hold the wrench...

Originally Posted by '02 nrs
try a 5/64 allen wrench-it maybe just large enough to grab the worn area.may want to heat the area with a heat gun some in case its loctited in place.
Thanks, I tried, the screw won't hold, and 3/32 is too big. I'll see if heat will help..
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Old 09-26-23, 06:06 PM
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uxcell Damaged Screw Bolt Extractor Remover 2mm to 3mm HSS High Speed Steel 2 Pcs - Amazon.com
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Old 09-26-23, 06:16 PM
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Thanks, I just stumbled on this part too. For $10 it might be worth trying it. Can anyone see why this wouldn't work?

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Old 09-27-23, 12:16 AM
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Have you tried a left hand drill bit? As others have mentioned, try heating in case of Loctite on threads.

Or, can you fit (lightly hammer in) a small torx bit, you mentioned 5/64 hex slips and 3.3/2 is too big, here is a link to torx bit dimensions and a T7 sacrificial bit might fit, if too loose, try epoxying it in

https://www.garagetooled.com/hand-tools/torx-bit-sizes/
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Old 09-27-23, 01:15 AM
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Originally Posted by bike_forum_geek
Thanks, I just stumbled on this part too. For $10 it might be worth trying it. Can anyone see why this wouldn't work?
Iíve used a 3mm version and it worked well on a different bike component. As long as the screw is aluminium it should bite ok.

Whatever caused the original head to strip might still be locking the screw in place of course.
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Old 09-27-23, 01:18 AM
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try a hardened T7 torx bit, not a 5/64" torx bit, for OEM tolerance reasons It'll likely be a "specialty" bit, but shouldn't be a diamond in the rough to find. Be sure to clean the screw head from loose debris (via pick tool & cotton swab laced with a grit grime cleaner) .
With a steady hand while applying firm pressure into the screw hole using the T7, give it the beans.
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Old 09-27-23, 01:23 AM
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Originally Posted by bike_forum_geek
Thanks, I just stumbled on this part too. For $10 it might be worth trying it. Can anyone see why this wouldn't work?
The caution I'd proceed with if using that is how far before it punctures thru the screw body & contaminating the system with debris, or should the extractor busts during the process, what is the fallback plan to extract the extractor? The material of that tool has a high rockwell & could leave you with a plan of replacing the assembly.
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Old 09-27-23, 08:33 AM
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Originally Posted by bike_forum_geek
Thanks, I just stumbled on this part too. For $10 it might be worth trying it. Can anyone see why this wouldn't work?
Only that they often don't work and only chew up the screw some more, but in that event you may still be able to drill it out and tap it for a larger thread.
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Old 09-27-23, 09:05 AM
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Originally Posted by Troul
try a hardened T7 torx bit, not a 5/64" torx bit, for OEM tolerance reasons It'll likely be a "specialty" bit, but shouldn't be a diamond in the rough to find. Be sure to clean the screw head from loose debris (via pick tool & cotton swab laced with a grit grime cleaner) .
With a steady hand while applying firm pressure into the screw hole using the T7, give it the beans.
Yea man! Not t7 but t9 torx, with a magnet got it done. You win the "winning comment of this thread" award, Thank you!
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Old 09-27-23, 09:13 AM
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Originally Posted by JoeTBM
Have you tried a left hand drill bit? As others have mentioned, try heating in case of Loctite on threads.

Or, can you fit (lightly hammer in) a small torx bit, you mentioned 5/64 hex slips and 3.3/2 is too big, here is a link to torx bit dimensions and a T7 sacrificial bit might fit, if too loose, try epoxying it in

https://www.garagetooled.com/hand-tools/torx-bit-sizes/
I reread your post, you were first with the small Torx idea. You share "best comment of this thread award", Thank you!
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Old 09-27-23, 12:05 PM
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I love a story with a happy ending.

What part did the magnet play?
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Old 09-27-23, 01:22 PM
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Originally Posted by choddo
I love a story with a happy ending.

What part did the magnet play?
It's a long story. I still need to bleed this thing and replace the screw, which seems like a problem, apparently they're hard to find.

I used the magnet on the screw as it came out, if it hit the floor, it's lost :=(
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Old 09-27-23, 01:29 PM
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Originally Posted by bike_forum_geek
It's a long story. I still need to bleed this thing and replace the screw, which seems like a problem, apparently they're hard to find.

I used the magnet on the screw as it came out, if it hit the floor, it's lost :=(
Wise. I sort of assumed it was going to be scrap but I guess youíve just about kept it usable.
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Old 09-28-23, 02:25 AM
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Originally Posted by bike_forum_geek
I reread your post, you were first with the small Torx idea. You share "best comment of this thread award", Thank you!
You are most welcome, glad that trick worked for you.

We work on a lot of rusted and abused bikes and often resort to this first for chewed up hex heads. We keep a large supply of sacrificial Torx bits on hand just for this method
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Old 09-30-23, 08:16 AM
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user error! Here's the final update.

Hayes Dyno hydraulic brake master cylinder bleed hole screw requires Torx wrench to remove. Using a 2mm wrench was my mistake.

Hayes support techs are great.

Lessons learned. Thanks all.
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