Are all Presta cores the same quality?
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Are all Presta cores the same quality?
A while ago one of my Presta valves failed. The thin inner rod broke. I suspect I have been a little careless in the past with how I put the pump head on (it's the first bike I've had with Presta tubes). I'll try to do better. That was a non removable core, so I had to throw a perfectly good tube away.
Both tyres now have removable cores, so I thought I'd get some spares. I'll probably replace the core on the non new tyre anyway, in case I've damaged that.
But there seems to be a huge difference in price. 4 x Schwalbe cores are something like £14 (UK). Whereas a pack of 12 unknown-make are £7. Is there much difference in quality? I assume they're all the same size. And I don't really need 12.
Thanks.
Both tyres now have removable cores, so I thought I'd get some spares. I'll probably replace the core on the non new tyre anyway, in case I've damaged that.
But there seems to be a huge difference in price. 4 x Schwalbe cores are something like £14 (UK). Whereas a pack of 12 unknown-make are £7. Is there much difference in quality? I assume they're all the same size. And I don't really need 12.
Thanks.
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...I don't know about the aftermarket replacement cores, but the ones that come in tubes definitely vary in quality. I have had to replace many in the past couple of years. Rarely had a problem before that.
...I don't know about the aftermarket replacement cores, but the ones that come in tubes definitely vary in quality. I have had to replace many in the past couple of years. Rarely had a problem before that.
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yes, as well as not all being interchangeable.
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Get the correct cores for your tubes. However if I was going for tubes I would try to get Schwalbe or Continental when possible and then Specialized or Teravail if not. There are differences in tube quality hence different price points. Good quality tubes cost a little more but I think are worth it unless you are just running crap tires and subject to tons of flats but I wouldn't; run crap tires unless in an emergency.
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Oh, right. That's a pain. I assumed they were interchangeable. Is it that they are supposed to be, but sometimes aren't?
Anyway, the tubes are Schwalbe (I think) so if I get Schwalbe cores (as spares) all should be OK. With more care hopefully I won't be damaging them too much.
Thanks.
Anyway, the tubes are Schwalbe (I think) so if I get Schwalbe cores (as spares) all should be OK. With more care hopefully I won't be damaging them too much.
Thanks.
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In my experience the Schwalbe tubes have been notorious for coming with faulty cores. I have been replacing them with no-name cores from AliExpress, that both looked better by eye and operated without problems. I hope the replacement cores marketed by Schwalbe are of a better quality than those in the tubes they market.
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In my experience the Schwalbe tubes have been notorious for coming with faulty cores. I have been replacing them with no-name cores from AliExpress, that both looked better by eye and operated without problems. I hope the replacement cores marketed by Schwalbe are of a better quality than those in the tubes they market.
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My own experience has been different. I have used at least 30 Schwalbe tubes that get pumped at least twice a week and get used for 3+ years most of the time. (I patch rather than replace). Never had a PV go bad but I rarely have an issue with any brand Presta valve. To the OP, maybe you don't need to get spares yet. If you already have some spare tubes just use the valve from one of them and when you toss an old tube, save the PV for spares. I'm a bit frugal that way but always have spares for friends and people who have destroyed. theirs on the side of the road with ham fisted pumping after a flat.
As I said, this being the first bike I've had with Presta valves, I think I was a bit clumsy with putting the pump head on and off. I keep toying with the idea of getting one a Silca Hiro pump head but they are a bit non-cheap.
Hopefully with more care, now I understand how Presta valves work, I won't break another one.
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Never had a PV go bad but I rarely have an issue with any brand Presta valve. To the OP, maybe you don't need to get spares yet. If you already have some spare tubes just use the valve from one of them and when you toss an old tube, save the PV for spares. I'm a bit frugal that way but always have spares for friends and people who have destroyed. theirs on the side of the road with ham fisted pumping after a flat.
I keep toying with the idea of getting one a Silca Hiro pump head but they are a bit non-cheap.
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I keep toying with the idea of getting one a Silca Hiro pump head but they are a bit non-cheap.
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In the several Presta tubes I bought for Brompton, half of the valves leaked. Just in case, I replaced those cores that did not leak too, just in case, not wanting to wait for a mishap at an importunate moment. DO NOT reuse cores from tubes that ran their life course. The cores have rubber seals that deteriorate with time, just like any rubber.
Not sure about the Hiro head but Hirame, of which Hiro seems to be a copy, is certainly great. It also comes in the Schrader version which is a good investment too.
Not sure about the Hiro head but Hirame, of which Hiro seems to be a copy, is certainly great. It also comes in the Schrader version which is a good investment too.
Anyway, I saw this:
Hiro vs Hirame chucks.
I think I'd be using as in the Hirame example, as replacement for the current chuck. Is it not possible to do that with the Hiro? With a hose clamp or something?
Thanks.
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couple of comments
1) make sure you tighten the core, I have found some tubes come from the factory with the core not well tightened.
2) the park valve tool is worth the cost
3) if you use sealant in tubes, get extra cores as they tend to get clogged up
4) I do not understand the comments about not interchangeable, I have never seen this
1) make sure you tighten the core, I have found some tubes come from the factory with the core not well tightened.
2) the park valve tool is worth the cost
3) if you use sealant in tubes, get extra cores as they tend to get clogged up
4) I do not understand the comments about not interchangeable, I have never seen this
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The Hirame would be essentially permanent.
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Thanks both of you. Yes, the reputation of the Hiro is stellar. I'm tempted, very tempted. Also tempted to start using tyres with smooth valves, I hate that forcing it on feel. Thought, does anybody make half and half valves, bottom part threaded, top smooth?
Anyway, I saw this:
Hiro vs Hirame chucks.
I think I'd be using as in the Hirame example, as replacement for the current chuck. Is it not possible to do that with the Hiro? With a hose clamp or something?
Thanks.
Anyway, I saw this:
Hiro vs Hirame chucks.
I think I'd be using as in the Hirame example, as replacement for the current chuck. Is it not possible to do that with the Hiro? With a hose clamp or something?
Thanks.
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I use the Schwalbe tubes and tires. I had tube failures prior to using them. I have a silca floor pump that I purchased in the 90s. I saw a YouTube video that demonstrated the Hiro pump head. I no longer worry about how careful I remove the pump head. The Hiro needs very little valve hanging out to work.
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Presumably all pump hoses are the same internal diameter? Or close enough that lubricant/hose clamp will make it all work together.
Last edited by stratman; 09-22-23 at 10:52 AM. Reason: grammar error
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I use light alu QR pneumatic couplers (from Zoro) and switch between my 2 Hirames and one other chuck that I like before I can blink an eye.
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couple of comments
1) make sure you tighten the core, I have found some tubes come from the factory with the core not well tightened.
2) the park valve tool is worth the cost
3) if you use sealant in tubes, get extra cores as they tend to get clogged up
4) I do not understand the comments about not interchangeable, I have never seen this
1) make sure you tighten the core, I have found some tubes come from the factory with the core not well tightened.
2) the park valve tool is worth the cost
3) if you use sealant in tubes, get extra cores as they tend to get clogged up
4) I do not understand the comments about not interchangeable, I have never seen this
it doesnt surprise me that i found the unfortunate design. not sure who the make was. just tossed them out & never looked back.
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also to note is that deflating tire before removing valve will keep it and the tool from becoming rockets and taking an eye out
your not compatible cores could have been dunlop (aka woods)
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true, I use park, but "good quality core tool of any kind" is a good substitution.
also to note is that deflating tire before removing valve will keep it and the tool from becoming rockets and taking an eye out
your not compatible cores could have been dunlop (aka woods)
also to note is that deflating tire before removing valve will keep it and the tool from becoming rockets and taking an eye out
your not compatible cores could have been dunlop (aka woods)
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I bought some no-name valves and the top nut spun right off the first time I tried to open it to put air in. That allowed the rest of the inside parts slide all the way down and into the tire. The other 3 from the same batch seemed to work fine, but I couldn't trust them and bought a different kind of core. I don't know which brands are better than others, or how many factories there are serving the many brand labels, but I now check the core before installing it.
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I only use Schwalbe and Continental tubes. Both of those brands individually test their tubes and I've never had a bad one out of the box. HOWEVER -
I bought four Schwalbe tubes last year and the first two had leaky valves. I bought a pack of the valves linked below and compared them under a microscope. The difference in quality was obvious. The rubber seals were larger and more even on the new ones, the metal parts are better material and more finely produced, even the knurling on the knob was more even. My theory is that Schwalbe tests their tubes first, and then installs the cheapest valves they can buy.
I still use mostly Schwalbe tubes, but now I swap out the presta valve automatically, and keep a supply of these valves. There are a lot of different ones for sale but I can vouch for these.
Presta Valve Core - 10 Pack
I bought four Schwalbe tubes last year and the first two had leaky valves. I bought a pack of the valves linked below and compared them under a microscope. The difference in quality was obvious. The rubber seals were larger and more even on the new ones, the metal parts are better material and more finely produced, even the knurling on the knob was more even. My theory is that Schwalbe tests their tubes first, and then installs the cheapest valves they can buy.
I still use mostly Schwalbe tubes, but now I swap out the presta valve automatically, and keep a supply of these valves. There are a lot of different ones for sale but I can vouch for these.
Presta Valve Core - 10 Pack
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Ah, wait a moment. The Hiro can screw into a threaded Schrader chuck. Or maybe that's the only way to attach it? In which case I'd have to buy a threaded Schrader chuck, but I would then have both options (I've got some bikes with Schrader). Whereas with the Hirame it would be a little neater (less ironmongery) but no way of pumping Schrader valve with the same pump.
Use a hose clamp, or, style points will be awarded if you use an Oettinger clamp, which is used for automotive fuel injection lines. See pic #2. You can then thread the Hiro chuck onto your hose.
The Hiro and the Hirame are equivalent, I have both. HOWEVER the Hirame rubber inserts are nearly impossible to get, and they do wear out, The Silca ones are available from ... Silca.
no doubt some intrepid soul will interject that "they found 'em on Amazon". Good luck with that !
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