Freehub engages on every downstroke but not smooth
#1
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Freehub engages on every downstroke but not smooth
Did my first century ride today. Yay!
but was increasingly getting annoyed in the "clang" of every downstroke of my pedal engaging rather than being continuous and smooth.
A month old Canyon Endurace CF with stock Fulcrum wheels.
Do the pawls need to be relubed? I was surprised that the entire freehub assembly can pull out when I removed the wheel.
but was increasingly getting annoyed in the "clang" of every downstroke of my pedal engaging rather than being continuous and smooth.
A month old Canyon Endurace CF with stock Fulcrum wheels.
Do the pawls need to be relubed? I was surprised that the entire freehub assembly can pull out when I removed the wheel.
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Sure sounds like a possible sticking freehub body. If so then the problem likely should be greater in the smaller rear cogs than the easy large ones. Don't overlook the FH's bearings needing servicing, besides the pawls. Andy
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Something odd is going on.
Normally, once you start pedaling the pawls engage and STAY engaged. They would only disengage if the wheel overruns the freehub (unintending coasting). So, unless you pedal in an oddball staccato way, (push, dwell, push, dwell, etc.) your problem is someplace else. Possibly worn chain or freewheel teeth.
However, there's another issue. On those hubs the freewheel is secured to the axle independently of the hub shell. That is controlled by the right side locknut, with spacers setting the location. If the freehub has any movement, other than rotating, you have missing or loose parts on the right side. Possibly that's also causing what you feel in the pedals.
Normally, once you start pedaling the pawls engage and STAY engaged. They would only disengage if the wheel overruns the freehub (unintending coasting). So, unless you pedal in an oddball staccato way, (push, dwell, push, dwell, etc.) your problem is someplace else. Possibly worn chain or freewheel teeth.
However, there's another issue. On those hubs the freewheel is secured to the axle independently of the hub shell. That is controlled by the right side locknut, with spacers setting the location. If the freehub has any movement, other than rotating, you have missing or loose parts on the right side. Possibly that's also causing what you feel in the pedals.
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#6
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Something odd is going on.
Normally, once you start pedaling the pawls engage and STAY engaged. They would only disengage if the wheel overruns the freehub (unintending coasting). So, unless you pedal in an oddball staccato way, (push, dwell, push, dwell, etc.) your problem is someplace else. Possibly worn chain or freewheel teeth.
However, there's another issue. On those hubs the freewheel is secured to the axle independently of the hub shell. That is controlled by the right side locknut, with spacers setting the location. If the freehub has any movement, other than rotating, you have missing or loose parts on the right side. Possibly that's also causing what you feel in the pedals.
Normally, once you start pedaling the pawls engage and STAY engaged. They would only disengage if the wheel overruns the freehub (unintending coasting). So, unless you pedal in an oddball staccato way, (push, dwell, push, dwell, etc.) your problem is someplace else. Possibly worn chain or freewheel teeth.
However, there's another issue. On those hubs the freewheel is secured to the axle independently of the hub shell. That is controlled by the right side locknut, with spacers setting the location. If the freehub has any movement, other than rotating, you have missing or loose parts on the right side. Possibly that's also causing what you feel in the pedals.
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something else to check... is the BOTTOM BRACKET spinning with little to no resistance?
i've seen way too many bad BB bearings cause a similar "interrupted Cadence"
and you may want to try resetting your seat a touch lower too...
that all said.. fulcrum (campy) freehubs are generating multiple complaints on more than just this forum.... Excess drag is the main complaint...
in their defense, a bit of play is normal, with any freehub... a LACK of play would cause excess drag... a Lack of manufacturing tolerance control at a factory leads to numerous customer complaints.
i've seen way too many bad BB bearings cause a similar "interrupted Cadence"
and you may want to try resetting your seat a touch lower too...

that all said.. fulcrum (campy) freehubs are generating multiple complaints on more than just this forum.... Excess drag is the main complaint...
in their defense, a bit of play is normal, with any freehub... a LACK of play would cause excess drag... a Lack of manufacturing tolerance control at a factory leads to numerous customer complaints.
Last edited by maddog34; 09-25-23 at 12:04 PM.
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Otherwise, start by checking if the right side lockout is tight. You can hold the axle with a 5mm hex key.
FYI a trace, and I mean just a trace, of freehub play on the axle is normal.
Also, freehub play still wouldn't explain what you describe, so I still lean toward chain skipping rather than a hub issue.
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Is this because the pawls slip or is the chain getting a little slack in it and then snapping tight on the next stroke?
If the latter, then I'd really suspect your pedaling needs some work. Possibly you pedal too slow and your bike is out pacing your cadence or you are pedaling at too high a cadence for your current abilities and your rpm is inconsistent as you go through each stroke.
If it's because the pawls slip. Lube or replace the freehub or freewheel.
I also firmly believe that new bikes that aren't working correctly should go back to the shop they were bought at for the first year or two.
If the latter, then I'd really suspect your pedaling needs some work. Possibly you pedal too slow and your bike is out pacing your cadence or you are pedaling at too high a cadence for your current abilities and your rpm is inconsistent as you go through each stroke.
If it's because the pawls slip. Lube or replace the freehub or freewheel.
I also firmly believe that new bikes that aren't working correctly should go back to the shop they were bought at for the first year or two.
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"Otherwise, start by checking if the right side lockout is tight."
pretty sure FBinNY meant "LockNUT"
pretty sure FBinNY meant "LockNUT"

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Yes, Thanks. My cell phone's Autocorrect thinks it's psychic and knows what I want to say better than I do. I catch most, but not all, and in some cases it can be very persistent.
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Alcatel... i will never buy their phones again.
I set it to 12 (my ears are shot.)... it resets to 8.. then resets to 7 the next day... multiple times now....
Last edited by maddog34; 09-25-23 at 05:04 PM.
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It's like the 2024 election, a choice between unsatisfactory options.
I get fed up and turn it off. Then get tired of dealing with fat fingers on tiny keys. So I go to voice to text, which is OK, except it refuses to recognize words like lockout. Back to auto-correct. I just go with whatever I'm least unhappy with at the moment.
Niagara Falls.
I get fed up and turn it off. Then get tired of dealing with fat fingers on tiny keys. So I go to voice to text, which is OK, except it refuses to recognize words like lockout. Back to auto-correct. I just go with whatever I'm least unhappy with at the moment.
Niagara Falls.
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#15
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Since it's new, the safest option is let the dealer check it out.
Otherwise, start by checking if the right side lockout is tight. You can hold the axle with a 5mm hex key.
FYI a trace, and I mean just a trace, of freehub play on the axle is normal.
Also, freehub play still wouldn't explain what you describe, so I still lean toward chain skipping rather than a hub issue.
Otherwise, start by checking if the right side lockout is tight. You can hold the axle with a 5mm hex key.
FYI a trace, and I mean just a trace, of freehub play on the axle is normal.
Also, freehub play still wouldn't explain what you describe, so I still lean toward chain skipping rather than a hub issue.



The non-drive-side is some kind of bushing. I can press it in as much as I can and still a little side-to-side play. Maybe when the thru-axle is screwed in that things are tight.

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That's a later generation than the ones I had in mind. If once assembled, installed, and tightened, you're only seeing trace play, you can rule it as an issue.
So, you're down to chain skip, or poor cadence where you're slow at 6 and 12, cause a moment of overrun.
As I sain in my 1st post, once engaged freewheel stay engaged until the hub overruns the cassette, ie. coasting.
So, you're down to chain skip, or poor cadence where you're slow at 6 and 12, cause a moment of overrun.
As I sain in my 1st post, once engaged freewheel stay engaged until the hub overruns the cassette, ie. coasting.
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ummm... that sure looks like a Broken Axle to me....
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signed: someone that was once certified to conduct warranty repairs on over a dozen brands of Agricultural, Construction, and Lawncare Equipment. (i always tried to Hide the "home repairs", if possible.)


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Something ain’t right. You probably wouldn’t be able to even remove the casette without pulling the freehub out.
Agree with the far more knowledgeable gentleman above that it shouldn’t cause your issue though, since the pawls seem to be in the right place when you’re pedalling.
Agree with the far more knowledgeable gentleman above that it shouldn’t cause your issue though, since the pawls seem to be in the right place when you’re pedalling.
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While seeing the dealer might make the best sense, I understand how people can still be curious, and want to learn.
To that end, sound can ce an extremely useful diagnostic tool.
First consider the timing or frequency. Hub issues produce sounds syhronous with the wheel. If the sound is more synchronous with the cranks, consider pedals, BB, or most commonly a loose crank arm.
Random, not synchronous sounds are often related to chain issues.
So, put it back together, ride, and let the bike tell you where to look.
To that end, sound can ce an extremely useful diagnostic tool.
First consider the timing or frequency. Hub issues produce sounds syhronous with the wheel. If the sound is more synchronous with the cranks, consider pedals, BB, or most commonly a loose crank arm.
Random, not synchronous sounds are often related to chain issues.
So, put it back together, ride, and let the bike tell you where to look.
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actually, as imaged and described in posts, it appears that the Fulcrum Rear Hub's AXLE Tube has broken, and that allowed the owner to simply pull the cassette, freehub, and axle tube out of the hub body and bearings, without loosening or removing any retaining parts whatsoever... on a one month old bike.
Fulcrum Thru-axle hub, disc model..made by the same People Manufacturing Campagnolo hubs.......
Fulcrum Thru-axle hub, disc model..made by the same People Manufacturing Campagnolo hubs.......
Last edited by maddog34; 09-26-23 at 01:55 PM.
#25
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I don't think it is broken. Apparently this is how both Fulcrum and DT Swiss hubs are made.
It all went back together and back on the bike.
As far as the "clunks" I feel on downstrokes...my guess is that my pedaling stroke because a bit shoddy after riding 60+ miles.
It all went back together and back on the bike.
As far as the "clunks" I feel on downstrokes...my guess is that my pedaling stroke because a bit shoddy after riding 60+ miles.