Schwinn Varsity Build
#26
señor miembro
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#28
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I got this one today. I plan on keeping as many original parts as possible except for removing the safety lever extensions. I'm gonna use bar tape similar to the original but I couldn't find any sort of using green Benoto bar tape that is the same color. I would like to get a non step through version to restore as well.
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#29
Ride, Wrench, Swap, Race
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Congrats on such a complete and good-looking find!
I've seen a couple of 22" Varsity frames being discarded at the dump recently, still with nice (purple, yellow) paint.
The handlebars on these are a thinner 7/8" than on aluminum bars which are 15/16" diameter. So if using a thin tape like cloth or vinyl I would first slip innertube tightly over the bars (or use another under-wrap to build up thickness and cushion).
You could use regular brake lever ferrules at the frame stops, but they won't fit as deeply as the original ferrules so might potentially slip out along with the cable if the cable were to become slack.
It's a relatively minor safety concern as long as the caliper and cable are maintained to give smooth return force to hold the ferrule in place.
Note that clipless pedals to fit these bike's 1/2" crankarm threading are exceedingly rare to find these days.
I've seen a couple of 22" Varsity frames being discarded at the dump recently, still with nice (purple, yellow) paint.
The handlebars on these are a thinner 7/8" than on aluminum bars which are 15/16" diameter. So if using a thin tape like cloth or vinyl I would first slip innertube tightly over the bars (or use another under-wrap to build up thickness and cushion).
You could use regular brake lever ferrules at the frame stops, but they won't fit as deeply as the original ferrules so might potentially slip out along with the cable if the cable were to become slack.
It's a relatively minor safety concern as long as the caliper and cable are maintained to give smooth return force to hold the ferrule in place.
Note that clipless pedals to fit these bike's 1/2" crankarm threading are exceedingly rare to find these days.
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#31
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The brake safety levers actually suit the average rider on these casual frames. Try em, you might like em.
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#32
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Congrats on such a complete and good-looking find!
I've seen a couple of 22" Varsity frames being discarded at the dump recently, still with nice (purple, yellow) paint.
The handlebars on these are a thinner 7/8" than on aluminum bars which are 15/16" diameter. So if using a thin tape like cloth or vinyl I would first slip innertube tightly over the bars (or use another under-wrap to build up thickness and cushion).
You could use regular brake lever ferrules at the frame stops, but they won't fit as deeply as the original ferrules so might potentially slip out along with the cable if the cable were to become slack.
It's a relatively minor safety concern as long as the caliper and cable are maintained to give smooth return force to hold the ferrule in place.
Note that clipless pedals to fit these bike's 1/2" crankarm threading are exceedingly rare to find these days.
I've seen a couple of 22" Varsity frames being discarded at the dump recently, still with nice (purple, yellow) paint.
The handlebars on these are a thinner 7/8" than on aluminum bars which are 15/16" diameter. So if using a thin tape like cloth or vinyl I would first slip innertube tightly over the bars (or use another under-wrap to build up thickness and cushion).
You could use regular brake lever ferrules at the frame stops, but they won't fit as deeply as the original ferrules so might potentially slip out along with the cable if the cable were to become slack.
It's a relatively minor safety concern as long as the caliper and cable are maintained to give smooth return force to hold the ferrule in place.
Note that clipless pedals to fit these bike's 1/2" crankarm threading are exceedingly rare to find these days.
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#35
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I got this one today. I plan on keeping as many original parts as possible except for removing the safety lever extensions. I'm gonna use bar tape similar to the original but I couldn't find any sort of using green Benoto bar tape that is the same color. I would like to get a non step through version to restore as well.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/23478805435...Bk9SR5zW86avYQ
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#36
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Probably everything that can be said has already. I just finished a Varsity and a couple Continentals and they are a great first bike to work on but only if you buy one that is complete. the Continentals and Varsity are 34-36 lb depending on size with steel wheels. By comparison. the Raleigh Grand Prix I just finished weighed just under 30 lb with steel wheels.
When I look for a bike to work on I pay close attention to the paint. If the bike is dirty and greasy with frayed rusty cables it will clean up. If the paint is shot there is only so much you can do with it. here are the 2 Schwinns I just worked on. I used very few new parts on them . mostly just clean and polish.
When I look for a bike to work on I pay close attention to the paint. If the bike is dirty and greasy with frayed rusty cables it will clean up. If the paint is shot there is only so much you can do with it. here are the 2 Schwinns I just worked on. I used very few new parts on them . mostly just clean and polish.
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#37
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Hold my beer and watch this department:
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#41
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I want to convert to square taper and I did. If I'm writing a fixed gear without brakes the chain ring is only held in with one pin and when I'm back peddling that tin makes the hole in the chain ring bigger and bigger until it breaks.
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#44
feros ferio
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Been there ... done that. My father-in-law gave me his 1974 Varsity, which I promptly equipped with a 6-speed freewheel, downtube shifters (with the requisite shim under the clamp), aluminum rims, and KoolStop brake pads. I added toeclips and commuted on it for a couple of years until a coworker gave me a same-vintage Peugeot UO-8, which I upgraded with aluminum cranks and rims. The Peugeot was far more fun to ride, but two years later, after numerous climbs up a 12 percent grade to my office, the Peugeot did something a Varsity never would -- its drive side chainstay cracked between the chainring and tire dimples.
The Varsity's two worst features are the flat bladed fork and the steel rims. Start with a Continental, or, better still, start with a Super Sport, which already has a tubular fork and aluminum rims.
The Varsity's two worst features are the flat bladed fork and the steel rims. Start with a Continental, or, better still, start with a Super Sport, which already has a tubular fork and aluminum rims.
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"Far and away the best prize that life offers is the chance to work hard at work worth doing." --Theodore Roosevelt
Capo: 1959 Modell Campagnolo, S/N 40324; 1960 Sieger (2), S/N 42624, 42597
Carlton: 1962 Franco Suisse, S/N K7911
Peugeot: 1970 UO-8, S/N 0010468
Bianchi: 1982 Campione d'Italia, S/N 1.M9914
Schwinn: 1988 Project KOM-10, S/N F804069
"Far and away the best prize that life offers is the chance to work hard at work worth doing." --Theodore Roosevelt
Capo: 1959 Modell Campagnolo, S/N 40324; 1960 Sieger (2), S/N 42624, 42597
Carlton: 1962 Franco Suisse, S/N K7911
Peugeot: 1970 UO-8, S/N 0010468
Bianchi: 1982 Campione d'Italia, S/N 1.M9914
Schwinn: 1988 Project KOM-10, S/N F804069
#45
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The SUBURBAN has the same tubular front fork as the Continental. (note: The SUBURBAN has the same L.S. 2.4 sidepull brakes as the Varsity, while the Conti. has centerpull brakes)
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#47
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Unless you can be certain that the chain will never break or derail off the sprocket, the forged pin on a one-piece crank driving the chainring should be the least of your worries.
Advise having one backup brake on any bike used on real roads, unless you've perhaps perfected the full-panic heel-rub stop(?).
These two bikes appear to be set up for a larger rider than indicated by frame size, looks like they might be too short-reaching to ride comfortably?
Advise having one backup brake on any bike used on real roads, unless you've perhaps perfected the full-panic heel-rub stop(?).
These two bikes appear to be set up for a larger rider than indicated by frame size, looks like they might be too short-reaching to ride comfortably?
#48
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TCS,
I Love that Roxy triple crank on your green Varsity . Looks like an old TA.
I Love that Roxy triple crank on your green Varsity . Looks like an old TA.
Last edited by capnjonny; 01-24-23 at 08:25 AM.
#49
Junior Member
You could use regular brake lever ferrules at the frame stops, but they won't fit as deeply as the original ferrules so might potentially slip out along with the cable if the cable were to become slack.
It's a relatively minor safety concern as long as the caliper and cable are maintained to give smooth return force to hold the ferrule in place.
It's a relatively minor safety concern as long as the caliper and cable are maintained to give smooth return force to hold the ferrule in place.
That post is over four years old. I hope he's finished it by now.